Team Tekin Q&A

[jo90]

Some time back there was talk development into having the Tekin Hotwire software setup for use on the iPhone. Does anyone have any more info on this, if it progressed or if development is still under way ?

Would be nice to be able to do this via the iPhone than via a laptop :)

Cheers

[Lee24h]

Tekin rs gen 2 whats different and why does kt have a 8.5t limit on it and no 1s mode and no in built booster is it worth it

[Danny Harrison]

Some time back there was talk development into having the Tekin Hotwire software setup for use on the iPhone. Does anyone have any more info on this, if it progressed or if development is still under way ?

Would be nice to be able to do this via the iPhone than via a laptop :)

Cheers

There was some issue, I think the iphones dont have usb host control or something. Most the new Android devices do have it now though (wink wink tekin) So I would hope they will create an app. We do pay a premium for this gear after all :)

[jo90]

Just seen the releae of the Gen2, but it says it's only down to an 8.5t as mentioned above. I will assume there will be an RSPro Gen2 as well with no motor limit ?

Hope so

[Randy p]

There will be no RS Pro Gen 2. The RS Pro is being replaced by the RSX.

[levontraut]

There will be no RS Pro Gen 2. The RS Pro is being replaced by the RSX.


hope that means the price of the RS pro will come down as I need one for my tc and 12gt

[TonyM]

There will be no RS Pro Gen 2. The RS Pro is being replaced by the RSX.
Any timescale on this Randy? I'm assuming it will also have the separate port for the hotwire, which will make programming much easier. If so, a good enough reason to change my RS Pro's.

[jayropes]

hi peeps

just bought a gen2 motor and it looks like they come with 10 degrees of timing out of the box.
is this right or am i miss reading the scale??

cheers Jay

[DCM]

Sounds about right.

[Danny Harrison]

Hi Randy, I asked about this last year when very few phones had usb host. Now lots have it is there any chance of a basic hotwire app. Nothing fancy just access to basic settings would be great.

I know it doesnt make any money if current gear is going to be superceded by something current hotwires wont work with. It would be real nice though and show great ongoing support for us fanboys. It does upset me a bit seing others changing stuff when I cant without a laptop.

Pretty please :)

[Randy p]

We're already developing an Android app that should work on any android device that supports "OTG" cables and runs 3.1 or higher.

[Danny Harrison]

We're already developing an Android app that should work on any android device that supports "OTG" cables and runs 3.1 or higher.

This really excellent news Randy, I was certain it was doable, hats off to you guys.

Steered me away from giving something else a try when I get a new 2wd :)

[levontraut]

We're already developing an Android app that should work on any android device that supports "OTG" cables and runs 3.1 or higher.


can we get a link pls m8?

[neallewis]

can we get a link pls m8?

I'm sure Randy will publish a link when the software is released!

[jo90]

How about for iPhone though or Blackberry ?

[neallewis]

How about for iPhone though or Blackberry ?

Not possible on iphone I know that much. apples restrictions, not Tekins.

[jo90]

poxy Apple suck

[carborush]

Tekin pro2 motor (the ones for shortcourse 2x4)
are these already available ? and where ? can't seem to find any shop that sells them...
i'm guessing the pinion shaft is not 5mm like the pro4 ones but regular 1/10th 540 motor size ?

[HarlowS]

I believe they are very close to being shipped out to shops soon !! and yes, they will have standard motor shaft not the 5mm. :)


Tekin pro2 motor (the ones for shortcourse 2x4)
are these already available ? and where ? can't seem to find any shop that sells them...
i'm guessing the pinion shaft is not 5mm like the pro4 ones but regular 1/10th 540 motor size ?

[carborush]

will these work on a tekin RS pro ? (I know they are supposed to be combined with an Rx8)

[HarlowS]

No, they will need to be used with the RX8 or the new RSX that should be getting released shortly.

[jo90]

I have had an issue this weekend that seems a bit wierd and wanted to check what the TekinRS speedo would do in this situation.

After a large jump the speedo seemed to cut out. I still had steering input but the speedo was reseting, similar to that of when you first turn the speedo on.

Does the Tekin RS have some kind of fault detection that if it loses signal it turns off then back on again by itself ? Could there be anything else that may cause this kind of reset (sensor being jarred or something causing the RS to reboot effectively) ?

I even tried a brand new, unused Tekin RS of which the same fault occured.

Cheers

[InsideLineModels]

I have had an issue this weekend that seems a bit wierd and wanted to check what the TekinRS speedo would do in this situation.

After a large jump the speedo seemed to cut out. I still had steering input but the speedo was reseting, similar to that of when you first turn the speedo on.

Does the Tekin RS have some kind of fault detection that if it loses signal it turns off then back on again by itself ? Could there be anything else that may cause this kind of reset (sensor being jarred or something causing the RS to reboot effectively) ?

I even tried a brand new, unused Tekin RS of which the same fault occured.

Cheers

Hi, Do you have the wires resting on top of the speedo? We have seen problems in the past where the wires actually press the setting buttons on hard landings.

Kev

[smokes]

Hi i have broken the port that the sensor cable sits in on the Speed controller. How do I get it fixed thanks

[Northy]

Hi, Do you have the wires resting on top of the speedo? We have seen problems in the past where the wires actually press the setting buttons on hard landings.

Kev

Yeah, what Kev said. I've had this problem before.

Easy solution - open up the case and remove the plastic button insert parts - you'll still be able to press the buttons on the PCB with a small allen driver or similar.

G

[jo90]

i'll try this, cheers guys.

[sparky22]

Hi guys looking for some advice.

I am currently running the RS with a GM 13.5 sensored motor.

I have been reading up to find a basic set up/ starting point. On another forum someone has said the following;

"The timing setting is irrelevant when running sensored mode. only need to worry about this setting in sensorless mode. set it at 100 just in case of a sensor emergency"

Is this true???

thanks in advance.

[InsideLineModels]

"The timing setting is irrelevant when running sensored mode. only need to worry about this setting in sensorless mode. set it at 100 just in case of a sensor emergency"

Is this true???


Yes, this is correct. Only the boost and turbo features are active in sensored mode.

Kev

[sparky22]

Yes, this is correct. Only the boost and turbo features are active in sensored mode.

Kev

Hi Kev

thanks for the reply.

I did manage to find this out while I had it plugged into my hotwire :blush:

[sparky22]

dont suppose anyone on here has a good starting set up for bedworth do they??

i know its mainly off road guys on here, but thought id ask

[DCM]

There are a host of setups on the Tekin website.

[Randy p]

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESCsetups/index.html

[sparky22]

Thanks guys. Will check it out.

[Jason B]

Hi - I have a query about Timing Advance on an RS Pro in dual mode. I run a Novak 6.5 and usually race indoors on a small track. I have set the motor advance at 25% but as I am about to start the outdoor season on longer tracks I wanted to know whether I should increase this setting and if so what to expect in terms of acceleration, top speed and also extra motor heat. Thanks very much again.

Jason

[Danny Harrison]

Pretty sure you want 100 timing advance in dual mode bud. It's what ive allways run.

If you want more power/accelration, try sensored only. Then if you want more still start slowly increasing boost.

Im running mine with a 6.5t tekin motor sensored only with 35 boost and fairly high gearing (22/81 b44.1)

Feels like I could push it a lot more too, and at the very least gear up more.

Heat hasnt been an issue at all.

[DCM]

Hi - I have a query about Timing Advance on an RS Pro in dual mode. I run a Novak 6.5 and usually race indoors on a small track. I have set the motor advance at 25% but as I am about to start the outdoor season on longer tracks I wanted to know whether I should increase this setting and if so what to expect in terms of acceleration, top speed and also extra motor heat. Thanks very much again.

Jason

80% for outdoors in dual mode, but if you need a little more try the default timing profiles too.

[Randy p]

In dual mode the motor timing does nothing at all.

IF you're up to 100 in dual mode and you need more power go to 0 motor timing, sensored only mode and slowly raise your motor timing up until you get the power you need. Or you can leave motor timing at 0 and as DCM mentioned use the default timing profiles(223 software) and increase boost as needed.

[Jason B]

Thanks very much for the advice, just want to check though - if the timing advance has no effect in dual mode I'm not sure why I should set it at 80 rather than 10 or 100?

Cheers

Jason

[DCM]

They mean setting the timing on the motor, when in Dual mode, it makes no effect.

[sparky22]

after last weekend I incurred a problem...

the motor started stuttering at full load once the boost and turbo kicked in??

is this because my lipo's are not powerful enough?

I currently have trakpower 3600's. I some how managed to kill one at the weekend, it dumped like old school cells!

any help would be appreciated.

[DCM]

Need your setup Sparky, what motor, timing on motor and esc setup.

[sparky22]

Need your setup Sparky, what motor, timing on motor and esc setup.

sorry

gm 13.5 FDR 6.67

boost was about 45

turbo max

[DCM]

How much timing on your motor?

[sparky22]

How much timing on your motor?

It's fix 30 degrees

[Randy p]

That is very possible. And yes batteries that cannot sustain the requirement will eventually ruin something. I'd suggest not doing that any longer.

[DCM]

Sounds like way to much total timing to me, need to turn things down a little, that gives you a total of 95' timing, surprised you haven't melted the motor!!

[sparky22]

That is very possible. And yes batteries that cannot sustain the requirement will eventually ruin something. I'd suggest not doing that any longer.

Thanks for the reply. I have tried an alternative battery and seems to have solved the problem with the stuttering.

[sparky22]

Sounds like way to much total timing to me, need to turn things down a little, that gives you a total of 95' timing, surprised you haven't melted the motor!!

Thanks for all you help mate. I have turned it all down as I didn't think it was right! Hopefully I haven't damaged anything. Interestingly the motor was at about 67oC when it came off. Must have the lack of current from the battery.

Out of interest what is the overall limit I should be aiming for in terms of timing? And how do you work out what the constant and burst current is on the speedo?

Thanks again.

[DCM]

Don't worry, your ESC can delver more than your motor can accept.

I always worked on a limit of between 50 and 65' total timing maximum, you got to experiment with differing amounts to suit your driving style, I found that a low timing on the motor helped with punch off the start line and using the ESC to recoup the speed, last time I did a 13.5 it was

10' motor timing
40' boost timing
12' Turbo
End RPM 20,000
Start RPM around the 3,000rpm
Turbo Ramp 2
Delay of 0.15

[sparky22]

Don't worry, your ESC can delver more than your motor can accept.

I always worked on a limit of between 50 and 65' total timing maximum, you got to experiment with differing amounts to suit your driving style, I found that a low timing on the motor helped with punch off the start line and using the ESC to recoup the speed, last time I did a 13.5 it was

10' motor timing
40' boost timing
12' Turbo
End RPM 20,000
Start RPM around the 3,000rpm
Turbo Ramp 2
Delay of 0.15

Thanks again. i will bare this in mind when setting up the car. need some track time i think.

[DCM]

Don't be afraid to turn the limiter down to 85%, this will help reduce some of the heat build up and resist the temptation to turn everything to the max to.

[sparky22]

Don't be afraid to turn the limiter down to 85%, this will help reduce some of the heat build up and resist the temptation to turn everything to the max to.

I take it this is the current limit setting? I will bare that in mind aswell.

[Slim Shady]

Hi ,
I have two Tekin speedos..a RS and a RS pro..one was shorted,the other I bought turned out to be a dud :cry:,where do I send them for repair..
Regards Tony..

[DCM]

RC Disco http://www.rcdisco.com/ give them a call

[Randy p]

http://www.tekineurope.com/support.php

[shortcoursegoat]

Hi Randy

Is there a noticeble difference in smoothness between the rx8 an the ge2 version or is it mainly for the updated bec an datalogging?

[Randy p]

The Rx8 Gen benefits from the new hardware/software package as the RS Gen2 line does. So yes it's smoother, runs a bit cooler esc wise,etc.

[jayropes]

Hi peeps,

My rx8 has started doing some strange things. All of a sudden during a race it lost all power and started cogging. I took the sensor lead out and still the same. I changed the sensor lead.... Still the same. I changed motors...... Still the same. I re-saved the settings again and again and....... Still the same!!

There was one difference after re-saving the settings - the fault code displaying on the speedo is wrong motor type???

This speedo has been ultra reliable for the past year or so, without skipping a beat, so seems strange to just pack up on me now!!

Any help gratefully received!!

Jay

[Slim Shady]

Hi all,My Tekin RS Pro will chime when caliberated but wont arm,also if when I put my ear up close to the unit is makes a small pulsating noise every second as if it is ticking over.The display shows the first two lightS and last two lights on the display..I have tried many neutral widths..It has the latest software in it..also blinkey mode set..Anyone HELP please..I dont want to give up on a fab ESC..tHANKS IN ADVANCE..:cry:

[DCM]

http://www.teamtekin.com/rs_troubleshoot.html

Says wrong motor type selected.

[Slim Shady]

Thanks for the reply...its connected to a 10.5 tekin..with a new sensor lead.. really strange...:thumbdown:

[Randy p]

1s or 2s?

[kartstuffer]

Hi all,My Tekin RS Pro will chime when caliberated but wont arm,also if when I put my ear up close to the unit is makes a small pulsating noise every second as if it is ticking over.The display shows the first two lightS and last two lights on the display..I have tried many neutral widths..It has the latest software in it..also blinkey mode set..Anyone HELP please..I dont want to give up on a fab ESC..tHANKS IN ADVANCE..:cry:

Hi tony
Bring it with you on Saturday and I will run through it all with you,have you a Hotwire.
I found before with another esc that it was the radio not set at zero trims etc that can stop the esc arming.?

[Mr Satchell]

Just got a new rx8. Was wondering if the 3 screws in the box go in the bottom of the esc. Also what's the best way to mount it

[Randy p]

Yes there are 3 silver screws that can be used to mount the esc. There's no "best" way just your choice of good ones ;)

[Slim Shady]

1s or 2s?

Hi Randy,Its a 1s..

[Slim Shady]

Hi tony
Bring it with you on Saturday and I will run through it all with you,have you a Hotwire.
I found before with another esc that it was the radio not set at zero trims etc that can stop the esc arming.?

Hi Ivan,Ray will bring it on Sat,I wont be there,I will leave it soldered to the Teken motor,all you have to do is connect to a battery..Its under model number 4 on my Tranny..I will see you Sunday at racing,hopefully with some good news..Thanks for your help mate.Regards Tony.:thumbsup:

[neallewis]

Hi Randy,Its a 1s..

You'll need a booster to get it to work with 1S.

This: http://www.rcdynamics.co.uk/Booster.html
The Rolls Royce booster

or this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7884__Voltage_Booster_for_BEC.html

cheap as chips booster.

The HK cheapo one worked fine for me.

[jayropes]

Hmmmmm, not good, cheers DCM!!!

[The Doktor]

Hi Randy,Its a 1s..

its a 2s :p

Ill be at the track all day Saturday and Sunday. Between meself and Ivan we should get it up and running.

[levontraut]

Hi tony
Bring it with you on Saturday and I will run through it all with you,have you a Hotwire.
I found before with another esc that it was the radio not set at zero trims etc that can stop the esc arming.?[/QUOTE]


yes.... I had to set it back to zero for it to pick up / arm



[QUOTE=Mr Satchell;772727]Just got a new rx8. Was wondering if the 3 screws in the box go in the bottom of the esc. Also what's the best way to mount it


I use double sided tape to mount mine



Hi peeps,

My rx8 has started doing some strange things. All of a sudden during a race it lost all power and started cogging. I took the sensor lead out and still the same. I changed the sensor lead.... Still the same. I changed motors...... Still the same. I re-saved the settings again and again and....... Still the same!!

There was one difference after re-saving the settings - the fault code displaying on the speedo is wrong motor type???

This speedo has been ultra reliable for the past year or so, without skipping a beat, so seems strange to just pack up on me now!!

Any help gratefully received!!

Jay

have you been playing with end point on the radio? if so, rebind with everything at max then setup your esc... I hope this makes sense

[Randy p]

Hi Randy,Its a 1s..
1s requires a booster or receiver pack? Which are you using?

[firetian]

this is my oldest ESC, raced it for years, .. and now does strange things, looses power, makes the engine get very hot, even destroyed an BL engine
san diego auto accident lawyer (http://www.ltinjurylaw.com/san-diego-automobile-accident-lawyer)

[Randy p]

@firetian I need more info than this to help.

What motor exactly? Esc setup? Radio system? Battery? etc.

[Randy p]

@firetian I need more info than this to help.

What motor exactly? Esc setup? Radio system? Battery? etc.

[naturen]

I wont be there,I will leave it soldered to the Teken motor,all you have to do is connect to a battery..

dental implants phuket (http://www.dentaldepartures.com/phuket-dentist-dental-implants/)

[rogger5678]

makes the engine get very hot, even destroyed an BL engine

inground fiberglass pools (http://www.waterworldpools.com/)

[ampetoran]

all you have to do is connect to a battery..

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[Danny Harrison]

Hi Randy and fellow tekin users, Ive got to the point where Im pushing my redline 6.5 to the max outdoors and could still do with a little more punch in infield and speed down straight. Im running sensored, roughly 16 timing on can and 30 boost on esc. Any more and I'll be thermal.

Would I get a little more from the gen2 5.5 you think? I dont want to go dual on it really as my 6.5 feels like a snail now in dual mode :cry:

Thanks. Likely ordering tomorrow regardless but would be nice for some feedback too.

[carborush]

hi,
my tekin RS is doiing wierd stuff :
i updated to the latest 238 software and it got stuck
it took me 5-6 update tries to get it recognised and connected on the hotwire/pc again, eventually it connected.
after that it was working, except for the speed :
it's making the car run at least half the speed compared to before the 238 update with exactly the same settings and engine
i'm running a tamiya 17t sensorsless engine on a touring chassis
so the esc was setup in dual mode, timing advance max
I did notice that the start and end RPM displayed with a few digits missing
eg. 20000 became 2000, 8000 became 800 in the display
this was also very wierd

So shall I revert to the previous update of the esc software?
Is my tekinRS faulty ? why ?

[InsideLineModels]

Hi Randy and fellow tekin users, Ive got to the point where Im pushing my redline 6.5 to the max outdoors and could still do with a little more punch in infield and speed down straight. Im running sensored, roughly 16 timing on can and 30 boost on esc. Any more and I'll be thermal.

Would I get a little more from the gen2 5.5 you think? I dont want to go dual on it really as my 6.5 feels like a snail now in dual mode :cry:

Thanks. Likely ordering tomorrow regardless but would be nice for some feedback too.

Hi Danny

I always ran the 13mm rotors in the Gen1 motors for more torque although i haven't yet felt the need to on the Gen2s.

insidelineracing.co.uk/new-products/electrical-equipment-and-accessories/motor-and-speedo-accessories/tt2273-5111031d84c18-details (http://www.insidelineracing.co.uk/new-products/electrical-equipment-and-accessories/motor-and-speedo-accessories/tt2273-5111031d84c18-details)

I generally ran with standard motor timing and anywhere between 10 and 30 boost depending on the size and nature of the track.

Cheers
Kev

[Danny Harrison]

Hi Danny

I always ran the 13mm rotors in the Gen1 motors for more torque although i haven't yet felt the need to on the Gen2s.

insidelineracing.co.uk/new-products/electrical-equipment-and-accessories/motor-and-speedo-accessories/tt2273-5111031d84c18-details (http://www.insidelineracing.co.uk/new-products/electrical-equipment-and-accessories/motor-and-speedo-accessories/tt2273-5111031d84c18-details)

I generally ran with standard motor timing and anywhere between 10 and 30 boost depending on the size and nature of the track.

Cheers
Kev

I notice the 6.5 has the 12.5mm rotor in. I think I fancy the 5.5 and 13mm. Just been juggling money to get it ordered today. Hoping to have it for oople series this weekend. 70 notes in paypal at this moment so keep an eye out for my order incoming very soon :)

Want to sway me to the 6.5t gen2 or not enough of an upgrade?

[InsideLineModels]

Is this in 4wd? I generally run 6.5 in my lazer and 7.5 in the RB6. I would say that is the best all round option. I used 5.5 at Eden Park national but it was quite a big track and it is quite rare that i change motors.

[Danny Harrison]

Is this in 4wd? I generally run 6.5 in my lazer and 7.5 in the RB6. I would say that is the best all round option. I used 5.5 at Eden Park national but it was quite a big track and it is quite rare that i change motors.

Its in 4wd yeah. Its fine at most tracks, but occasionally Im lacking between apex's on punch, and an xb4 flew past me down the straight at Batley the other week which was nail in coffin. Its literally maxed out and I feel I can still use more power.

I'd just control the punch using the current limit on the 5.5, my throttle control is pretty good too. Would like the extra when I need it though.

Swaying on the 13mm rotor too though now. :/

Edit, Went for the rotor. Can always go for 5.5 if its still feeling too tame :)

[magnus]

I'm having heat issues with my durango 410. I'm using the rs pro and a thunder power 6.5 motor geared with 22 piniong at dual mode with 100 timing, current lim at 80 and no drag break. The esc has a fan on it and runs rather cool according to the leds, about 4 or 5 leds at most. However the motor is loosing power after about 3 min and eventually the car stops just after 5or 6 minutes and the esc shows thermal shutdown with led 1,3,5 flashing. So, can the esc shut down if the motor is getting too hot? I'm thinking of putting a fan on the motor as well. I have tried to gear lower but the car got soo slow. I was thinking of running in sensored mode, gear down and put on a little boost. I have cut the went holes in the body allready and I would prefer to keep the stock body.

[HarlowS]

Have you tried any other motors yet ??? Im currently running either a 5.5 or 6.5 Gen2 motor in my 410 and have had no issues with heat (also got a fan blowing over posts just for peace of mind). Running 23 pinion with 70 timing in dual mode (your 100 could be a bit too much when you get down to 6.5 motors. Have you always had this issue or since you have changed anything ???

[magnus]

I have tried my old losi motor and geared it with a 23 pinong and I had the same problem. I'm new to the car but I have the same esc motor setup as in my old xx4. I have afan at the esc posts so I guess the speedo is cool enough. I'll try less current limit and turn the timing down a bit.

[Danny Harrison]

I had a thermal with the new rotor in too. Put some holes in body which fixed it. Gonna try gear down, but straight speed is bang on :(

I couldnt do much hotwire tinkering as I only had my smart phone and no laptop hint, hint

[mitalexya]

Im running sensored, roughly 16 timing on can and 30 boost on esc. Any more and I'll be thermal.

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[Danny Harrison]

Im running sensored, roughly 16 timing on can and 30 boost on esc. Any more and I'll be thermal.

riverside motorcycle accident attorney (http://www.ltinjurylaw.com/riverside-motorcycle-accident-attorney)

I dont get it, sarcasm? I put a new rotor in, its running with less timing on can and 15 boost. Constructive reply is always a good though, thanks ;)

[Randy p]

I'm having heat issues with my durango 410. I'm using the rs pro and a thunder power 6.5 motor geared with 22 piniong at dual mode with 100 timing, current lim at 80 and no drag break. The esc has a fan on it and runs rather cool according to the leds, about 4 or 5 leds at most. However the motor is loosing power after about 3 min and eventually the car stops just after 5or 6 minutes and the esc shows thermal shutdown with led 1,3,5 flashing. So, can the esc shut down if the motor is getting too hot? I'm thinking of putting a fan on the motor as well. I have tried to gear lower but the car got soo slow. I was thinking of running in sensored mode, gear down and put on a little boost. I have cut the went holes in the body allready and I would prefer to keep the stock body.

What batteries are you using?

[magnus]

I have IP5400 (60C). Come to think of it, I have changed batteries since I ran the xx4 last year. I used to have a set of 2 year old IP 4200s in that one so that might have something to do with it. I also realised I could cut the back of the side scoops to let more air out and if that's not enought, I have a Jconcept body on the way that might do the trick.

[Randy p]

How many mah's are you using after a run? If the batteries have a weak cell you may be hitting voltage cut off slightly too early.

[magnus]

Oh I don't know really. I've never checked.

I took it out for a little testdrive last evening and I could run easily for 8 minutes. It was a little slower the last minute but I think it was ok. It was on a grassfield with rather high grass and lots of full throttle so I'd guess that would generate quite some heat. I had cut the rear went holes and went down to current limit 70. I still had the fan on the esc and it just went up to 4 or 5 leds (like before) right after I pulled the car over to check. I did notice however that the more leds came up after a while when the car stood still with the fan still on.

Anyway, it seems to be working now so I'll leave it there. Thanks for all advices and help.

[turomsha]

I have afan at the esc posts so I guess the speedo is cool enough.fiberglass pool company pa (http://www.waterworldpools.com/)

[smithkoitoa]

It was a little slower the last minute but I think it was ok. It was on a grassfield with rather high grass and lots of full throttle so I'd guess that would generate quite some heat.fire damage restoration san diego (http://www.sandiegowaterandmold.com/services/fire-damage-restoration/)

[pugboy]

I know this is not a Hobbywing section but bear with me. The principles of the esc software seem on the face of it largely similar to the Hotwire in the sense of boost and turbo. My issue is that when I run the same settings on the Tekin in 4wd as i do on the HW in 2wd, that the same effect does not seem to happen. The motor in 4wd is Novak 6.5 and my Hotwire settings (V223) are sensored and zero boost with 20 degrees of turbo timing. Gear ratio of around 10:1 in Durango 410. Now it is quickish but seems to lack top end. It does not seem to have a 'step up' as you would expect with 20 degrees of turbo dialled in. The can timing is set to zero but i have tried it more advanced too. On the bench with no pinion I cannot detect any change in pitch at full throttle when the turbo timing should be kicking in (which you can doing the same with HW). Question is it most likely to be software, hardware or motor related? Sensor cable seems ok with the test with the 3 lights on the esc.

Any thoughts.

Cheers

[carborush]

hi,
my tekin RS is doiing wierd stuff :
i updated to the latest 238 software and it got stuck
it took me 5-6 update tries to get it recognised and connected on the hotwire/pc again, eventually it connected.
after that it was working, except for the speed :
it's making the car run at least half the speed compared to before the 238 update with exactly the same settings and engine
i'm running a tamiya 17t sensorsless engine on a touring chassis
so the esc was setup in dual mode, timing advance max
I did notice that the start and end RPM displayed with a few digits missing
eg. 20000 became 2000, 8000 became 800 in the display
this was also very wierd

So shall I revert to the previous update of the esc software?
Is my tekinRS faulty ? why ?

hi guys any suggestions on this ? anyone ?

[zadsoft]

Does anyone know of any issues running a Team Wave Eclipse 13.5T motor on a Tekin RS ESC with 1S Lipo? We just get no response from motor at all and yet put a tekin 10.5 in and all works ok so esc must be ok. We have tried more than one Eclipse (including know working motor from another car) and same result.

[Danny Harrison]

I know this is not a Hobbywing section but bear with me. The principles of the esc software seem on the face of it largely similar to the Hotwire in the sense of boost and turbo. My issue is that when I run the same settings on the Tekin in 4wd as i do on the HW in 2wd, that the same effect does not seem to happen. The motor in 4wd is Novak 6.5 and my Hotwire settings (V223) are sensored and zero boost with 20 degrees of turbo timing. Gear ratio of around 10:1 in Durango 410. Now it is quickish but seems to lack top end. It does not seem to have a 'step up' as you would expect with 20 degrees of turbo dialled in. The can timing is set to zero but i have tried it more advanced too. On the bench with no pinion I cannot detect any change in pitch at full throttle when the turbo timing should be kicking in (which you can doing the same with HW). Question is it most likely to be software, hardware or motor related? Sensor cable seems ok with the test with the 3 lights on the esc.

Any thoughts.

Cheers
You really don't want turbo on the tekin with a 6.5 motor. Take it off, use boost instead and gear it for the top end you require.

[Danny Harrison]

hi guys any suggestions on this ? anyone ?

I'd hard reset it so its running factory settings. See if its OK, then go from there. I had a weird thing happen like this too. I did this and it was OK. Also, I run sensored now, feels much nicer for me.

[Randy p]

I know this is not a Hobbywing section but bear with me. The principles of the esc software seem on the face of it largely similar to the Hotwire in the sense of boost and turbo. My issue is that when I run the same settings on the Tekin in 4wd as i do on the HW in 2wd, that the same effect does not seem to happen. The motor in 4wd is Novak 6.5 and my Hotwire settings (V223) are sensored and zero boost with 20 degrees of turbo timing. Gear ratio of around 10:1 in Durango 410. Now it is quickish but seems to lack top end. It does not seem to have a 'step up' as you would expect with 20 degrees of turbo dialled in. The can timing is set to zero but i have tried it more advanced too. On the bench with no pinion I cannot detect any change in pitch at full throttle when the turbo timing should be kicking in (which you can doing the same with HW). Question is it most likely to be software, hardware or motor related? Sensor cable seems ok with the test with the 3 lights on the esc.

Any thoughts.

Cheers

We don't generally run turbo in offroad. However there are a few things to check. When at Full throttle do all the led's light up AND Flash? If not you're radio/esc calibration needs to be redone.

2nd if under heavy timing the sensors fail we won't turbo boost the motor.

Ideally you should be using low motor timing(0-10) and some esc timing boost(10-20) should be plenty fast.

Rp

[pugboy]

We don't generally run turbo in offroad. However there are a few things to check. When at Full throttle do all the led's light up AND Flash? If not you're radio/esc calibration needs to be redone.

2nd if under heavy timing the sensors fail we won't turbo boost the motor.

Ideally you should be using low motor timing(0-10) and some esc timing boost(10-20) should be plenty fast.

Rp

Thanks for that Randy

Will the motor run cooler if you run less boost and then just have the timing wound up for the straight (i.e. turbo), assuming there is enough punch elsewhere on the track? It is on astro so we have lots of grip, so the surge is not an issue.

I tried it again last night with zero can timing + ten degree boost plus a further 15 degrees of turbo. I can now hear the change in pitch at full throttle but until i get it on the track I won't know how quick it is or if it heats up excessively over the length of a heat. Would you suggest it would be better to run 25 degree boost and zero turbo to achieve the same top end but a more gradual increase in timing through the rev range?

Cheers

Chris

[Danny Harrison]

Thanks for that Randy

Will the motor run cooler if you run less boost and then just have the timing wound up for the straight (i.e. turbo), assuming there is enough punch elsewhere on the track? It is on astro so we have lots of grip, so the surge is not an issue.

I tried it again last night with zero can timing + ten degree boost plus a further 15 degrees of turbo. I can now hear the change in pitch at full throttle but until i get it on the track I won't know how quick it is or if it heats up excessively over the length of a heat. Would you suggest it would be better to run 25 degree boost and zero turbo to achieve the same top end but a more gradual increase in timing through the rev range?

Cheers

Chris

Turbo is like an extreme boost on the tekin bud, fast turn motors don't like it. I run sensored only, 12 degrees on can and between 0-30 boost. Its rapid. Just gear it for straight speed.

[Randy p]

What I personally don't like about turbo in offroad is that it's literally tied to full throttle. So any time you're giving the car full throttle turbo is on it's way to the motor. I find this for my driving style, to be not good.

Try it, but timing is timing in regard to the motor and temps.

[pugboy]

Thanks for that guys. I'll try without turbo then and see if I can find a happy medium of speed, punch and temp.

[Mr Satchell]

Hi randy. I'm new to tekin. I have a rs pro running a 6.5 gen2 motor with 5000
Thunder power battery's. just wondering if I have to set the esc up for that motor. Don't want to plug it in and it go bang. Thanks

[HarlowS]

Just read through the instructions, wire it up correctly, A-A, B-B, C-C etc., calibrate it to your radio and it will be fine, will only go bank if you reverse the battery wires :)

[Mr Satchell]

I bought it second hand with no instructions. How do I calibrate it to my radio. I have spektrum dx3r pro

[HarlowS]

Instructions can be found here, its pretty simple :)

http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf

[Randy p]

Hi randy. I'm new to tekin. I have a rs pro running a 6.5 gen2 motor with 5000
Thunder power battery's. just wondering if I have to set the esc up for that motor. Don't want to plug it in and it go bang. Thanks

Not knowing how it's setup now? Yes :

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESCsetups/setupsheets/rs/offroad/v223/offroad_6.5_4MOD_RandyPike_SRS_v223.pdf

[Lowie]

Had ESC-problems this weekend :(
and I don't understand yet what went wrong.

Situation: Race kampenhout (Astro, high grip, medium track), 4WD, running the 410DARC (similar to DEX410).
Standard spur (87 with pinion 24 which gave me a ratio of about 8.9).
Thunderpower 6.5 with Tekin RS Pro.

first problems:
Trying to change the setup so I hooked it to my laptop. I had downloaded the latest Hotwire-soft-version saturday on a USB-stick and re-installed it on this laptop (had an older version installed previously).
When connecting the ESC I immediatly got the message that I needed to update the ESC-software which I OK'ed.

AFter this tinkered a bit with the setup: Brushless-delayed reverse, sensored only, no turbo , bit of boost (25), narrowed the neutral zone to 12, Current limit 80, ...
Clicked on APPLY SETTINGS and waited like a good boy untill that was done.
Closed the program, disconnected the ESC and back in the receiver.

==> blinking leds, no tones, nothing???
(Later out, with the help of Kevin Lee (*!) I figured out that this LED-code meant a problem with the engine).
I tried all kinds of things and found out that the blinking LED's stopped when disconnecting the motor. I then installed another older motor which I was sure it was fine .. but again this blinking.

So I re-did the whole thing: again update the software-version on the ESC .. then changed the settings again as described higher and this time no errors so I though all was well again.

Second problem later on that weekend: I had discovered that I forgot the revers-delayed function; so to eliminate problems during racing I hooked up the ESC to the laptop again and changed the setting to BL-FR.
but when reconnecting to the receiver I got the same error blinking LED's.
... one minute before my Q3 :( :( which I missed obviously :(

I asked Kevin Lee for advice and he knew that these LED's showed an engine-problem. But as I was sure the engine was OK, he looked further into the matter, pushed the buttons at a speed I could not follow and he found out that the car was set as BRUSHED ?!?
This was very strange as I was 99% sure of having selected BL-FR (checked it twice while working with the Hotwaire-program before APPLYing the settings to the ESC). I write 99% as one can never be 100% sure I guess.

Anyway, Kevin got it set to Brushless with the buttons on the ESC and I didn't want to change anything anymore as I allready missed one Qualification.
From there on the motor perfomed as expected. me = happy again.

.. but as the engine got very hot avery stint I thought I should try a larger pinion. The batteries were fine, the Tekin RsPro only showed 4 led's after every run, so I thought the engine might need some heavier workload.
I switched my 24-pinion to a 25 for F2.
Everything went great .. untill the 5 minutes-sign .. suddenly the car hesitated, then thermalled out and stopped. AFter some seconds I could continue again and limped in the last round with the car hesitating a few times.
The ESC reveiled blinking LEDs: HOT! .. which decended after a while to a normal temp.

Offcourse I switched the 25-pinion to the usual 24 again. I had run all my Q's and one Final with this pinion and never had problems, the ESC showing only 4 leds for the temp-reading.
.. but in the last final, the same happened again: at the 5 minute-sign, the car thermalled out, and I had to limp in again, loosing 3 places in this final round :(

After the race, I switched the pinion to a 23-pinion for a test-drive, but the car clearely lacked speed and thermalled again after 5 minutes (exactly?!?)

We checked on the drivetrain of the car but that was perfectly free and smooth.

Someone told me that maybe it was the capacitator that was dead and so the ESC had to do all the work on his own and overheated. Can this be correct?

To sum it up: 1: strange things happened when trying to setup the ESC through hotwire, the software not transferring the correct settings to the ESC
2: why the sudden overheating??


(*!) a BIIIIIG thank you for Kevin Lee who was there on several occasions for me when I had problems with the ESC. Always very helpfull and friendly advice.

[Lowie]

also another quick question: how does one mount a fan onto an RsPro?
any pictures of this somehewere?

[Randy p]

@ Lowie,

How old is that motor? Where was the can timing set? How big is the track? Does your car run the same internal drive as the Dex?

[Lowie]

Motor: it's first race- day, so brand new.
Timing on motor lowered from 20 to 10°
The track was astro, very grippy"
Medium track length.

Now I don't think that this had anything to do with the track. The track did not change. I never had overheating-problems, the ESC staying relativly cool the previous training days, or while qualifying ... and then suddenly the thermaling out.

[carborush]

I asked Kevin Lee for advice and he knew that these LED's showed an engine-problem. But as I was sure the engine was OK, he looked further into the matter, pushed the buttons at a speed I could not follow and he found out that the car was set as BRUSHED ?!?
This was very strange as I was 99% sure of having selected BL-FR

My rs esc did exactly the same after updating (see my posts a bit above in this thread)
it was "locked" in brushed mode. did not want to connect to the hotwire again
Only thing left to do was pushing the onboard buttons and set the engine to brushless again.
after that the hotwire connection worked again, but car ran at 50% of normal speed. regardless of the settings in the hotwire

[Randy p]

Motor: it's first race- day, so brand new.
Timing on motor lowered from 20 to 10°
The track was astro, very grippy"
Medium track length.

Now I don't think that this had anything to do with the track. The track did not change. I never had overheating-problems, the ESC staying relativly cool the previous training days, or while qualifying ... and then suddenly the thermaling out.

If you did a software update it's always a good idea to perform a factory reset right afterwards. This blows out any bad data in the memory locations so when you install your setup, there is no chance of an issue.

Give that a shot, re test. Let me know.

[smokes]

Ran my rs pro with a broken capacitior have killed it as the brakes don't work.

[Randy p]

The RS/RS Pro shouldn't be ran without a cap.

[Lee24h]

Im after a good smooth boost profile for a touring car with a lrp x20 13.5t motor
Indoors on carpet using rubber tyres
Im try to make a all rounder profile however i find the bottom end is quite aggresive
Any help
Cheers
Lee

[Randy p]

This one is very common to use: http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESCsetups/setupsheets/rs/onroad/Chris%20Lillywhite_TC_13.5_v212.pdf

[paul4898]

who in the uk repairs tekins ,been in touch with rc disco and they said it will cost 75.00 for a exchange unit, the bad news is they dont do the rs pro anymore it will have to be a gen2 speedo but this only handles 6.5 motors and above, the other option they said was to send it back to the states which will cost $123.00 plus postage.
Any ideas if not looks like a change on all me speedos coming up:)

[Randy p]

That's actually inaccurate, well at least part of it.

The RS Gen2 is only rated to an 8.5. The RS Pro is being discontinued and is giving way to the RSX.

What is wrong with your RS Pro?

[paul4898]

Is the rsx available in the uk??
My rs pro was working fine until sunday morning then two red lights either end of the light display came on.
I thought it needed resetting with my transmitter but unfortunatly the lights still stayed the same.
When i got home i found the light code meant incorrect motor type selected.Unfortunatly after resetting the speedo it still doing the same.
I think light no,s are 1.2 and 6.7

[carborush]

try setting a different motor type with the onboard buttons

[matt76]

Hi, I've just swapped my rs pro and Tekin 5.5 motor out of my durango 410 and into a kyosho RB6, it ran fine in the 410 but yesterday it cut out a few times(3 lights on) after leaving for a few mins it was ok again, only thing I've changed was I put drag brake on 20, would anyone have a decent starting set up, I'm running ,on high grip astro.

Cheers matt.

[Randy p]

Hi, I've just swapped my rs pro and Tekin 5.5 motor out of my durango 410 and into a kyosho RB6, it ran fine in the 410 but yesterday it cut out a few times(3 lights on) after leaving for a few mins it was ok again, only thing I've changed was I put drag brake on 20, would anyone have a decent starting set up, I'm running ,on high grip astro.

Cheers matt.

Cutting out can be a few things. Which 3 led's were showing?

1 3 5 is low voltage cut off for example.

[matt76]

The lights where more central, think 2,4,6. i'll run it again and check. The esc is difficult to see in its location in this car.

Thanks for the reply.

[matt76]

The lights where more central, think 2,4,6. i'll run it again and check. The esc is difficult to see in its location in this car.

Thanks for the reply.

[Lowie]

quick question:
What would be the benefits of drawbacks of fitting a second capacitator on the ESc (RS Pro).

I'm having difficulties with my ESC and think that it might be the cap that is not functioning OK. Is there a way to test this?

[neallewis]

quick question:
What would be the benefits of drawbacks of fitting a second capacitator on the ESc (RS Pro).

I'm having difficulties with my ESC and think that it might be the cap that is not functioning OK. Is there a way to test this?

No problem at all. You can use something like this: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/electrics/speed-controllers/hobbywing/hw86030030-hobbywing-power-capacitor.html

What difficulties are you having?

[jo90]

The power cap is more there to keep the brake fets cooler than anything else. I swapped messages with Randy at Tekin some tmie ago about this and it is fine to fit more than one, some mod touring racers do it to keep the fets cooler.

You can get the power caps in the same rating as Tekin's own one's which i have done and used for a long time now. I even soldered together a little bubble of them when i used to race TC.

There are no power advantages though, the speedo will not react or have any more power (its powerful enough anyway)

Hope that helps you

[Lowie]

thx
I was not lokking for any improvment of the ESC-functions, just to keep it cooler.

I went training today at Kampenhout and think I have solved my probs.
I had problems with the motor and ESC getting very hot.
The settings on the ESC were some that a Tekin-guru-racer adviced me.
To make things clear, the friendly guy was racing also 4WD with it, but with adequate cooling airflow under the body ANd with an extra fan.
It was a setting with hugh timing but no boost or turbo.
My car however does not have a very good airflow on the electronics, neither did I have a fan.

I simply hooked the RS Pro on the netbook and reprogrammed it, back to my basics; sensored, timing carefully on 50 and boost on 10.
I also went down one tooth on the pinion.
To my relieve I still have adequate speed for my level of racing + good acceleration AND the temps on the motor and ESC stayed acceptable now -*relief-sigh*
70°C on the motor (in stead of the 90+°C I had earlier) and
reasonable (4-5 leds) (were they were blinking off the shart previously) after 8 + minutes of racing./
It seems I have sound the source of my troubles AND back on route to tinker the RS PRO to a good level of performance again, without crossing the line.


thx for the help.

[jayropes]

Just about to put this into my 410 but have noticed that when you spin the shaft it feels really lumpy. You don't get the smooth notches that you normally feel.
I know the 5.5 has the high torque rotor but is this normal???

[Randy p]

The "lumpy" part isn't anything to be alarmed about assuming it doesn't feel "sticky" in any way. Yes the majority of our Gen2 mod motors come with larger 13mm rotors standard. The entire team felt this was a better setup than a smaller rotor.

[jayropes]

cheers Randy

its a lot stiffer than my 6.5 gen2, you can feel the small notches as normal but as you rotate the shaft you can feel 2 stiff notches.

if I have the flat edge of the shaft almost at the top of the motor (where the solder posts are) and rotate it clockwise - I can feel several notches, as you would normally for about 1/4 of its rotation, followed by 2 stiff notches. turning it slowly it is difficult to turn the shaft!!, so I suppose it does feel sticky??

[jayropes]

sorry, I meant anti clockwise!!!

[Randy p]

So you're comparing a Gen2 5.5 to a Gen2 6.5 right?

[jayropes]

Yes, both gen2

[jo90]

Just about to put this into my 410 but have noticed that when you spin the shaft it feels really lumpy. You don't get the smooth notches that you normally feel.
I know the 5.5 has the high torque rotor but is this normal???

I would recommend running the posts away from the motor (so the tekin label reads across from the motor), this way you get less heat soak from the motor into the posts. I also run a small 30mm fan blowing air on the posts. The 410 really has no airways to let air into the shell.

[JohnM]

I would recommend running the posts away from the motor (so the tekin label reads across from the motor), this way you get less heat soak from the motor into the posts. I also run a small 30mm fan blowing air on the posts. The 410 really has no airways to let air into the shell.

Having seen Jay's car on Sunday, the motor feels lumpy when it's completely cold, so it's nothing to do with which way round the speedo is.

[neallewis]

cheers Randy

its a lot stiffer than my 6.5 gen2, you can feel the small notches as normal but as you rotate the shaft you can feel 2 stiff notches.

if I have the flat edge of the shaft almost at the top of the motor (where the solder posts are) and rotate it clockwise - I can feel several notches, as you would normally for about 1/4 of its rotation, followed by 2 stiff notches. turning it slowly it is difficult to turn the shaft!!, so I suppose it does feel sticky??

Have you stripped the motor down and inspected it? checked the bearings, rotor and ensured nothing is in contact with the rotor?

[jayropes]

No, I haven't stripped it a) because I don't like the idea of taking a motor apart and b) it's new and shouldn't need to be taken apart!!

I called rc disco today and arranged to send it to them for inspection!!

Thanks for your help though folks!!

Jay

[Randy p]

The "thumps" should all feel the same. If 2 segments felt different drastically you may have a shorted can somehow. Pretty rare.

[smokes]

Randy

Why has there been such a big gap between discontinuing the the RS pro and releasing the RSx version? Production scheduling or something?

Thanks

[Randy p]

I won't go into great detail but it was a supply issue with a component. Bottom line in the end it that the unit will be better for it.

So far the production units the team has tested are nothing short of stellar. It's been so good that it's tough to believe at times.

HV bec, data logging, fan if you need it, just a tick larger than the RS Pro...improved wiring layout,etc.

[neallewis]

I won't go into great detail but it was a supply issue with a component. Bottom line in the end it that the unit will be better for it.

So far the production units the team has tested are nothing short of stellar. It's been so good that it's tough to believe at times.

HV bec, data logging, fan if you need it, just a tick larger than the RS Pro...improved wiring layout,etc.

Sounds great, but when is it out to buy?

[smokes]

Cool but I reckon it will retail at £250.

Shame the RS gen can't handle 7.5 or 6.5 motor as that what most drivers use in the UK. I guess it was released early for the US market.

A friend of mine alway found it odd that US club scene use lower powered motors than the UK club scene when he raced in the US.

[Kosmickid]

After some help. I just installed a Tekin RS Pro in my DEX210 with a SP 13.5 Motor. Running 232 software and set a base set up from this thread for a similar setup and having issues getting full throttle.

Radio is correctly calibrated as when I hit max Brake or Throttle I get the full Ramp up of lights and they all flash indicating max. However when pushing the throttle the car is only getting about 10% speed and barely faster than walking pace. I've tried it in sensored and dual mode, tried all sorts of settings including trying to recalibrate the radio and adjust EPA but still the same. Help?

[Kosmickid]

I changed the throttle profile on the esc to no.5-more aggressive convex and its gained some speed but still about 50% of what it should be. That's obviously helped but what is it that I'm missing that's causing the lack of speed?

[Randy p]

First thing to inspect is to assure your A B C wires are in the correct order.

Next up is to verify the motor is working properly. IF the esc is showing all led's and flashing it's giving full power to the motor, whether or not the motor is good isn't something the esc can verify.

Do you have another motor to test with?

[Kosmickid]

First thing to inspect is to assure your A B C wires are in the correct order.

Next up is to verify the motor is working properly. IF the esc is showing all led's and flashing it's giving full power to the motor, whether or not the motor is good isn't something the esc can verify.

Do you have another motor to test with?

Thanks for the reply Randy. Yes all motor wires are correct and I've tried the motor in my 4wd just now with the hobbywing and its fine.

I just out it back in with the Tekin and turned the throttle profile to C2 and put the boost to Maximum to see what would happen. Wow. It's gone ballistic, just how it should be. It seems adjusting the boost makes a massive difference and I had it set low previously causing hardly any speed so it seems turning it up increases the power, obviously. I've been playing with the timing advance but it seems to have little or no effect on the power/speed.
What settings would you recommend I have for the timing advance, boost,turbo, turbo ramp/delay?

[matt76]

Hi guys, any setuo advice, I'm running a rs pro with a tekin redline Gen2 7.5 in a kyosho rb6. I'm racing on highgrip astro, also what size spur and pinion would be best for keeping the temp down?

Cheers matt :)

[danmurphy]

Hi guys, any setuo advice, I'm running a rs pro with a tekin redline Gen2 7.5 in a kyosho rb6. I'm racing on highgrip astro, also what size spur and pinion would be best for keeping the temp down?

Cheers matt :)

Hi Matt, I run 25/76 on most tracks with a Gen2 7.5 in my RB6. Kev Lee's RS Pro setup sheets are available on inside line racing's facebook page along with his kyosho setup sheets :thumbsup:

[matt76]

Hi Matt, I run 25/76 on most tracks with a Gen2 7.5 in my RB6. Kev Lee's RS Pro setup sheets are available on inside line racing's facebook page along with his kyosho setup sheets :thumbsup:

That's brilliant, thanks a lot :thumbsup:

[OneKiwi]

At last (not that I will get one as Im happy with what I have, but could be tempted) they have released pics and some info

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/TekinRSX.jpg

Tekin introduce the RSX competition brushless speed controller. The compact unit is designed for the use with 2S to 3S LiPo battery packs and it offers a billet aluminium heatsink housing, an optional fan shroud system and a highspeed fan for maximum cooling. The controller is compatible with sensored and sensorless motors, offers easy on-board programming and an adjustable high voltage BEC system with 6V to 7.4V output. Sporting an 180A rating the RSX is good for the use with motors as low as 2.5T with 2S batteries and 8.5T motors with 3S packs.
Features:
– Billet aluminum heatsink housing
– Optional fan shroud system and high speed fan for maximum cooling
– Ultra-smooth and precise throttle and braking control
– Compatible with sensored/sensorless brushless and brushed motors
– High voltage programmable BEC
– EZ access HotWire programming port
– HotWire PC interface for advanced programming and updating
– On-board temperature indicator
– Gold-plated solder posts for easy wire replacement

Specifications:
– High voltage BEC (6.0v/7.4v)
– Controls: forward/brake/reverse
– Input voltage: 4-9 cells, 2S-3S LiPo
– BEC: 6.0v / 7.4v 5.5amps
– Timing profiles: 7 choices (on board)
– Dimensions: 25.4x33x12.9mm
– Weight: 42g

[danmurphy]

How will the smartphone app work with the new rsx? Will I need the hotwire or can it be programmed without it?
Any ideas on a UK release date and RRP?

[paulj]

Hi, I'm having problems with the Hotwire software version 223 on a new RS ESC running on a home PC with XP, all windows service packs, security updates, etc fully up to date.

When I run Hotwire it connects to the ESC fine, I can only run the basic version not the full one despite clicking to install the full version -edit - managed to get both versions to install at different times but both with same issues - Whenever I click the 'setup' tab I get 'setup notes' opening which prevents me from viewing the complete options and sliders. I can't find any way to close this down? I've tried to reinstall, no luck, despite restarting after installing. I also get the profile curve C1 popping up at random times too when trying to change settings for brakes or throttle? The only way to get rid of this is to click on curves then back to what you want to change but as soon as you adjust a setting up pops the C1 curve again?
So far very unimpressed with the interface.

[Randy p]

How will the smartphone app work with the new rsx? Will I need the hotwire or can it be programmed without it?
Any ideas on a UK release date and RRP?

The app may require a udpated Hotwire Gen2. We're testing a lot of devices right now which is what is taking up the time.

World release will happen all at once and should be soon.

[Randy p]

Hi, I'm having problems with the Hotwire software version 223 on a new RS ESC running on a home PC with XP, all windows service packs, security updates, etc fully up to date.

When I run Hotwire it connects to the ESC fine, I can only run the basic version not the full one despite clicking to install the full version -edit - managed to get both versions to install at different times but both with same issues - Whenever I click the 'setup' tab I get 'setup notes' opening which prevents me from viewing the complete options and sliders. I can't find any way to close this down? I've tried to reinstall, no luck, despite restarting after installing. I also get the profile curve C1 popping up at random times too when trying to change settings for brakes or throttle? The only way to get rid of this is to click on curves then back to what you want to change but as soon as you adjust a setting up pops the C1 curve again?
So far very unimpressed with the interface.

It sounds like you may have not gotten a proper install done. You need to go into the control panel, add/remove programs and uninstall the current Hotwire. Reboot the PC, go to www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html and download the latest Hotwire software which is 238.

[paulj]

Hi randy,
I've tried all that several times and I still get the same issues when trying to edit a profile. HotWire software is 238 but every time I've loaded it I have pop up screens arriving as described above. I've used add/remove, manually removed Hot Wire folder, cleared recycle bin, and then dowloaded from fresh and after installing for the sixth time it still does the exact same thing. C1 curve adjustment box shows up over other tabs and 'set up notes' over the set up tab every single time I click the set up tab and nothing seems to remove it.

[Randy p]

Paul can you email me a screen show of what you're seeing please: Rpike@teamtekin.com

[paulj]

Hi Randy, I've sent two pictures of the relevant screen shots.

thanks, Paul

[levontraut]

It sounds like you may have not gotten a proper install done. You need to go into the control panel, add/remove programs and uninstall the current Hotwire. Reboot the PC, go to www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html and download the latest Hotwire software which is 238.

Paul.

this is the one option or there is something that is not nice on your computer virus/trojan.

wait for randy to get back or pm me and i can remote on to your pc and have a look m8.

either way i do not mind.

by the way, what OS and AV are you running?

[CrashBangWallop]

Think this is going to be one for Randy but I will throw it open to the floor !

Have got 3 Tekin RS's all three of them are running except one has developed a strange fault.

Before anyone asks they are all set up to run 1cell Li-Po and the setup is exactly the same for all 3.

The one which is causing trouble fails to start up in the usual way when switched on and remains completely dead. It connects to the Hotwire and I am able to program it fine but just wont work on a 1cell Li-Po.

I have tried connecting it up to a 2 cell Li-Po and a 4 cell Ni-Mh pack and it works fine but refuses to work like my other two with a 1cell.

Any ideas or am I looking for a new/replacement ESC ?

[neallewis]

Think this is going to be one for Randy but I will throw it open to the floor !

Have got 3 Tekin RS's all three of them are running except one has developed a strange fault.

Before anyone asks they are all set up to run 1cell Li-Po and the setup is exactly the same for all 3.

The one which is causing trouble fails to start up in the usual way when switched on and remains completely dead. It connects to the Hotwire and I am able to program it fine but just wont work on a 1cell Li-Po.

I have tried connecting it up to a 2 cell Li-Po and a 4 cell Ni-Mh pack and it works fine but refuses to work like my other two with a 1cell.

Any ideas or am I looking for a new/replacement ESC ?

To me if it works fine on 2S, then I'd be looking at your 1S booster wiring.
If you aren't using a booster, then you should be. My RS works on 1S without a booster (albeit with a slow servo), but my RS pro doesn't work at all on 1S.
If you are using boosters, then swap the faulty one with one that works fine, and see if the fault moves.

Another thing to check, is the voltage cut off you have, and make sure 1S lipo mode is selected in the hotwire software. You may be hitting a higher voltage cut off limit than the 1S output can provide.

[CrashBangWallop]

Don't use a booster, tried a few out and did not get the same results as using a small 2 cell Li-po i.e reliability.

2cell Li-po is wired into the switch harness so ESC 'sees' 3 Cell but only uses the 1 cell for main power. The other 2 I have are wired exactly the same and work fine but its just this one causing trouble.

1 cell li-po is selected on the software settings.

Have tried substituting all the parts and the problem is definitely the ESC - it did have another problem but replacing the receiver lead sorted that.

Just wondered what my options are really as everything I have runs 1cell Li-po and this RS is the fly in the ointment.

Suppose I could sell it as it works fine on 2cell Li-po or chop it in for a GEN2 but then I would have to change the other 2 as well.

[levontraut]

swop it out with a know working esc on the motor.. this will tell us if it is ESC or motor... or maybe even firmware?... have you re-flashed the esc....

[CrashBangWallop]

swop it out with a know working esc on the motor.. this will tell us if it is ESC or motor... or maybe even firmware?... have you re-flashed the esc....

Have tried another ESC and the motor works fine, I also downloaded the latest software and installed that. But it still refuses to work the same as my other two.

[Randy p]

Think this is going to be one for Randy but I will throw it open to the floor !

Have got 3 Tekin RS's all three of them are running except one has developed a strange fault.

Before anyone asks they are all set up to run 1cell Li-Po and the setup is exactly the same for all 3.

The one which is causing trouble fails to start up in the usual way when switched on and remains completely dead. It connects to the Hotwire and I am able to program it fine but just wont work on a 1cell Li-Po.

I have tried connecting it up to a 2 cell Li-Po and a 4 cell Ni-Mh pack and it works fine but refuses to work like my other two with a 1cell.

Any ideas or am I looking for a new/replacement ESC ?

I believe I emailed you already but just in case:

If it's working on a 4 cell or 2s lipo something is off on the booster or rx pack. If we don't get enough power to drive the fets, it will turn on but will NOT chime NOR will it drive a motor.

Rp

[burgie]

I have a redline gen2 7.5 (not rpm version) motor. The performance, compared to a redline gen1 7.5 motor, is a little lack lustre, even when tried on the same Tekin RS Pro esc.

As a rule of thumb, where should the timing on the Gen2 be set for optimal performance?

The Gen2 is very smooth, but lacks punch and top-end and generally does not perform as well as the Gen1 motor.

[Randy p]

I have a redline gen2 7.5 (not rpm version) motor. The performance, compared to a redline gen1 7.5 motor, is a little lack lustre, even when tried on the same Tekin RS Pro esc.

As a rule of thumb, where should the timing on the Gen2 be set for optimal performance?

The Gen2 is very smooth, but lacks punch and top-end and generally does not perform as well as the Gen1 motor.

That's generally the opposite. Where did you setup your gen1?

[paulj]

Hi Randy, any news on the Hotwire software it's been 6 weeks now and I've heard nothing and I still don't have a fully working Hotwire program.

[Randy p]

Paul, what do you mean you don't have a full working Hotwire?

[paulj]

Paul, what do you mean you don't have a full working Hotwire?

I sent you details weeks ago by email and discussed it on here the software does not allow me to use all the features of the Hotwire with my RS ESC as I get pop up menu's preventing me using it. You told me you would speak with the software developers to try and solve the problems.

[Randy p]

I sent you details weeks ago by email and discussed it on here the software does not allow me to use all the features of the Hotwire with my RS ESC as I get pop up menu's preventing me using it. You told me you would speak with the software developers to try and solve the problems.

Paul,

Please email me all of the details of your issue : Rpike@teamtekin.com

[burgie]

That's generally the opposite. Where did you setup your gen1?

The Gen1 is stock, the Gen2 has been on different timing settings without noticeable performance gain or otherwise.

My particular Gen2 seems to be a slower motor overall.

[Randy p]

Have you used the RS sensor checker feature to verify the sensors are working?

[kartstuffer]

Hi
I have run my RS Pro for the last 2 years with no real problems .till now...
RS Pro with a redline 6.5 in a DEX 410 .running endbell 8, TP 3,CL 75%, BS 90%,Sensored mode fwd/brk, DB off, boost 40 start 5k fin 20k.
It now overheats and cuts out after 4 1/2 mins so with 1 or 2 laps to go it just starts to cut out and will keep going if i throttle back and nurse it to the finish but by this time i have been passed by everyone, this has been happening for the last 2-3 weeks and in practice i even tried a LRP 6.5 and it lasted 5 mins just but still running very hot (80c) motor and speedo ,i also have a fan fitted pointing at the h/sinks.
Running on high grip indoor astro air temps now around 5c. no problems in the summer running with air temps of 20-30degs.
I run an RS with a 7.5 in 2wd with no problems at all .also tried turning boost to 25 and no difference in temps ??? frustrated.
Anyone any ideas. First winter c/ship round this sunday.

[Randy p]

Boosting a 6.5 with that much boost it should be ballistic. So you've either over heated the rotor, lost a sensor board or something has changed in the car mechanically. Bearings?

If the caps on the RS Pro have failed it can cause the esc to run hot but not cause the car to lose speed.

[neallewis]

Kartstuffer,

I had this problem on my 7.5 gen2 and RS Pro. I swapped in the sensor board from my Gen2 5.5 and it all went away. I'd say try a new sensor board on the motor.

[kartstuffer]

I checked the rotor and it shows better than a brand new one and the sensors all work fine on the tester ,, I did change the diff oil from 7&5 k to 10&10 k but will go through the car and see if anything is binding !
Neal I tried a lrp motor which works perfectly with an orca speed controller but I just like the feel of the Tekin and I want it to work.
Randy this is the set up kev lee uses.

[neallewis]

I checked the rotor and it shows better than a brand new one and the sensors all work fine on the tester ,, I did change the diff oil from 7&5 k to 10&10 k but will go through the car and see if anything is binding !
Neal I tried a lrp motor which works perfectly with an orca speed controller but I just like the feel of the Tekin and I want it to work.
Randy this is the set up kev lee uses.

My Gen2 faulty sensor board showed up fine on the sensor checker. Just broke down 4.5mins into a race and all went wrong, exactly as you describe. I'd say under heat, load and stress of running in a race, it caused the fault to show. Fine on the bench though, ran perfect.

I also swapped to other motors and they ran fine, nothing i could set on the RS pro would stop it not from occurring. ran no timing (on can), ran the various tame profiles, dual drive, blinky, etc. all caused the motor to show the fault at ~4+ mins into a race. In the end I swapped my sensor board out of my 5.5 Gen 2 and the motor was perfect again. I ran the suspect sensor board in my 5.5 and it failed at about 3.5 mins.

[Randy p]

I checked the rotor and it shows better than a brand new one and the sensors all work fine on the tester ,, I did change the diff oil from 7&5 k to 10&10 k but will go through the car and see if anything is binding !
Neal I tried a lrp motor which works perfectly with an orca speed controller but I just like the feel of the Tekin and I want it to work.
Randy this is the set up kev lee uses.

A sensor board that does fail in/out could do something like this, he's right. And they're hard to catch doing this also.

[kartstuffer]

Thanks guys , will try and let you know what happens

[kartstuffer]

Hi guys ,
I tried this again last sunday and i finished the heats but was still losing power ( cutting out ) at the 5 minute mark and coming in at 64deg c after a race.
I could get to the finish if i did no warm up laps.
I also tried a LRP 6.5 motor and it did the same.
Is there any way of getting the RS Pro and redline motor properly checked ??
Thanks again for your help.

[Randy p]

You would need to send it in for service to inspect it. But yes it can be done.

[Danny Harrison]

You would need to send it in for service to inspect it. But yes it can be done.

I'm having this problem now too. No changes made, ran it for last 3 month with no issues. Today its stopping 2-3 min into a race (5.5). What's chance of a warrenty repair? I've ran as per instructions with 0 timing, no boost etc.

edit.
Could it be a bad batch? Mine came from same shop as Neal lewis' roughly the same time. My gen1 was bulletproof.

[Randy p]

There's no "bad" batches lol. I hate that "thought"

We can inspect and test anything. Often times though when an esc out of nowhere is getting hotter than before the silver cap has failed and should be replaced.

[Danny Harrison]

There's no "bad" batches lol. I hate that "thought"

We can inspect and test anything. Often times though when an esc out of nowhere is getting hotter than before the silver cap has failed and should be replaced.
Thanks. After trying many things. It turned out that having the lvc at 6.3v was my problem. Under load voltage of cells was dropping below it. Put it on 1cell and its run fine all night. New lipo time I guess.

Would still love an RSX though. Watching closely.

[Randy p]

Glad it's been sorted.

[Ross]

I'm running a Gen1 8.5 tekin motor and RSPro in my RB6. The speedo is set to 100% brakes and the hand set is bound at 100% for brakes. The brakes are fine for high speed brakeing, for instance the straight at Silverstone indoor club the car will brake fine, but on slow stuff it's not as good.

I have the same issue on my DB1 as well, that has a Gen 2 and RSPro in it.

Any ideas what this sue could be. I don't think it's slipper or diff giving way as they seem OK.

Cheers
Ross

[Randy p]

Ross,

Is your RS Pro running 223? If so where is your active brake set?

What do you mean by "not as good" in the infield?

[Ross]

Ross,

Is your RS Pro running 223? If so where is your active brake set?

What do you mean by "not as good" in the infield?

Hi Randy

Its running 212,should i upgrade to 223?

If im braking at the end of a fast straight then the brakes are fine, but through tight technical sections there not as good.

[Ross]

Hi Randy

Its running 212,should i upgrade to 223?

If im braking at the end of a fast straight then the brakes are fine, but through tight technical sections there not as good.


Sorry its on 223 not 212

[Randy p]

Try my brake proflie:

Active brake 0(1 if it's super high bite)
Brake Strength at 100

Use your epa's to control the overall power.

If you need more initial push brake "power" up your active brake.

[Ross]

Try my brake proflie:

Active brake 0(1 if it's super high bite)
Brake Strength at 100

Use your epa's to control the overall power.

If you need more initial push brake "power" up your active brake.


:thumbsup::thumbsup: thanks I'll give that ago.

[ScoobyECFC]

Hi all,

I need some advise regarding my Tekin RS Pro, as I'm not sure if I've blown something.

When I switch it on, rather than the normal combination of LEDs lighting up, I just seem to get all 5 very dimly lit LEDs, and no power going through to the motor. I've recently changedmy reciever/controller, although im pretty sure this has nothing to do with it as the steering still works.

Any ideas?

Steve

[Randy p]

Steve,

Unplug the esc from the receiver, unplug the sensor harness from the esc side. Power it up? Result the same?

[ScoobyECFC]

Hi Randy, apologies for the delay in responding.

Exactly the same result, just a line of dimly lit LEDs...

Steve

[Randy p]

Ok,

Steve does the hotwire recognize the esc? If it does, try re updating your software. DO NOT interrupt it.

[ScoobyECFC]

I recently updated to 223 so that may have something to do with it. I'll try and get back to you.

Cheers

Steve

[ScoobyECFC]

Thanks for all the assistance Randy, software downloaded again and all appears to be running well again.

Top Tekin Service!!!

Steve

[Randy p]

Nice!

[Danny Harrison]

Hi Randy, I gave the tekin rsx a run out this weekend with 5.5 gen2 motor.

Ive checked logs after and notice motor topping out at around 32k rpm. temps were great. Is this rpm value normal? MMotor end timing is at 0 deg. Thanks.

[mattr]

Any timing yet for when there will be gen 1 support on hotwire 2.0?
I've seen that they will be supporting on the tekin forums, but no real timing, just "soon".

[Randy p]

32k in 4wd buggy is pretty normal. Gearing is what really controls that figure. Look at the throttle input rpm "bell" curve and see if it's the flat topping. Take a read here and see this helps:

http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/TWS_DataLogHowTo_111513.pdf

Explains a few things to look at and what changes to make.

[Randy p]

The next App update will provide Gen1 support. It also corrects the 4.2+ android OS issues.

[mattr]

Nice. Just have to sit here and twiddle my thumbs until then!

[smokes]

Hi Randy

What is the recommendation on here, in using the current limiter on tekin rs pro on a 7.5 turn motor. For racing 2wd buggy on a indoor slippy wooden floor/carpet circuit. I just want to smooth the low end out as at the moment the tiniest throttle input will over load the tyres when accelerating out of corners on the wooden floor.
I am aiming for the top end of a 7.5 but the acceleration of a 10.5.

Thanks

[levontraut]

Hi Randy

What is the recommendation on here, in using the current limiter on tekin rs pro on a 7.5 turn motor. For racing 2wd buggy on a indoor slippy wooden floor/carpet circuit. I just want to smooth the low end out as at the moment the tiniest throttle input will over load the tyres when accelerating out of corners on the wooden floor.
I am aiming for the top end of a 7.5 but the acceleration of a 10.5.

Thanks

have you played with your slipper? also what radio do you have?

[smokes]

Slipper clutch won't help on wooden floors, as the path of least friction is the rubber and the floor. I am currently using a futaba 3pk. I am going to set the throttle current limit to 55 to see how that goes and set the throttle profile to 1.

[Danny Harrison]

Slipper clutch won't help on wooden floors, as the path of least friction is the rubber and the floor. I am currently using a futaba 3pk. I am going to set the throttle current limit to 55 to see how that goes and set the throttle profile to 1.
I use same radio and did have same ESC bud. I set an expo on throttle between 25 and 45. it really smoothed out the bottom end :thumbsup:

[neallewis]

Slipper clutch won't help on wooden floors, as the path of least friction is the rubber and the floor. I am currently using a futaba 3pk. I am going to set the throttle current limit to 55 to see how that goes and set the throttle profile to 1.

Smokes, i ran the same car on the same track today. my slipper was really loose. i spoke to you about your car, its way too fast, over motored and boosting far too much for the grip level on the track. you want to be running no timing and no boost, run blinky until you can get round without crashing. motor down to a 13.5 with a little delayed boost for straight, or a blinky 10.5. set current limit to 60ish and as Danny says run some -ve expo on the tranny. he can help you set that. you basically want to smooth out the bottom to mid range.

If you watched my car today, i was running a boosted 17.5T with some extra timing with a slight delay for the straight. The car was super drivable and i hardly made any mistakes. i could have used a bit more speed, so next time I'm trying a 13.5T.

[smokes]

I use same radio and did have same ESC bud. I set an expo on throttle between 25 and 45. it really smoothed out the bottom end :thumbsup:

negative or positive expo ?I don't want to buy a new motor before racing outdoors.

[Randy p]

Sounds like you may be boosting a 7.5 or have an odd setup here.

First off you shouldn't need to boost a 7.5 in a 2wd buggy. It's already going to have a lot of power.

Anytime i'm on a slick surface with a motor/setup where I want 10.5 acceleration but 7.5 top end i go to dual mode.

Dual mode with timing set to 20(Gen2) or 80(Gen1 esc) which will make it butter smooth but still have "legs" on top.

[Danny Harrison]

negative or positive expo ?I don't want to buy a new motor before racing outdoors.

Theres a graph on your transmitter that shows the curve. You want the curve shallow at start and getting steeper as input increases.

-25 mine was at Sunday, as grip was pretty low and my motor/esc combo is an animal :woot: its also set with the minimum throttle expo profile on the esc. Cant remember which of top of my head, but you'll find it in the hotwire settings.

RSX+5.5 gen2, loving it.

[smokes]

Sounds like you may be boosting a 7.5 or have an odd setup here.

First off you shouldn't need to boost a 7.5 in a 2wd buggy. It's already going to have a lot of power.

Anytime i'm on a slick surface with a motor/setup where I want 10.5 acceleration but 7.5 top end I go to dual mode.

Dual mode with timing set to 20(Gen2) or 80(Gen1 esc) which will make it butter smooth but still have "legs" on top.

Bought an RS Pro second hand with a Kev lee setup on it. It had the boost set on it to 1.0.

Got version 2 of the software, I am right to assume the 20 is equal to 80 when using dual mode?

Danny what neutral width do you use for the throttle setting on the RS pro?

[Randy p]

On RS PRo the Dual mode is a percentage of 30 degrees. So 80 percent is 20 degrees.

[smokes]

Thanks Randy. I am oil and gas engineer, we don't like to make assumptions dealing with 15,000 psi.

[Danny Harrison]

Bought an RS Pro second hand with a Kev lee setup on it. It had the boost set on it to 1.0.

Got version 2 of the software, I am right to assume the 20 is equal to 80 when using dual mode?

Danny what neutral width do you use for the throttle setting on the RS pro?

I wouldnt be running boost at batley bud, its only useful for the straight and even thats not very long. Just get the gearing right. I use 7 neutral width. Dual as randy said is dead smooth and expo helps if you have a heavy throttle finger exiting corners.

Remember kev lee is pro, he can likely drive the car super aggressive :D

[smokes]

Danny

I ended up setting the throttle expo to -50 on the transmitter and the used throttle profile 1 and dual mode at 20 degrees on the speedo. My neutral width was set a 52. I think I need to reduce the neutral width to have a more responsive throttle. I also loosened the slipper, It was easier to drive and I kept improving round by round, wish I had done it earlier.

What do you set the speedo and expo to when running out doors at Batley?

[neallewis]

my neutral width is set to 5 on my RS and RS Pro. i think Dannys is 7 or 10 from memory. 52 will just remove lots of bottom end throttle control and create a bigger deadband around the stick centre where nothing happens.
i keep my throttle linear, but a little expo does help smooth the response a bit on a wheel radio.

[Danny Harrison]

Danny

I ended up setting the throttle expo to -50 on the transmitter and the used throttle profile 1 and dual mode at 20 degrees on the speedo. My neutral width was set a 52. I think I need to reduce the neutral width to have a more responsive throttle. I also loosened the slipper, It was easier to drive and I kept improving round by round, wish I had done it earlier.

What do you set the speedo and expo to when running out doors at Batley?I adjust expo on every surface depending on grip levels. The aim is to have a wider area around the most used throttle on the trigger. On low grip I'm using lower throttle input through the turns so I have the expo fairly high. II go much more linear on higher grip as I'm using more throttle input.

I think with a trigger the expo gives a better feel. I find a lot of stick users don't like it so much.

[matt76]

Hi,

Could someone please suggest a good starting set up for a Tekin RS Pro in a Lazer ZX5 FS2 with a 5.5t motor, running in door at Chadderton then out door on high grip astro (would you run the same settings)

Any advice appreciated

Matt

[Randy p]

Hi,

Could someone please suggest a good starting set up for a Tekin RS Pro in a Lazer ZX5 FS2 with a 5.5t motor, running in door at Chadderton then out door on high grip astro (would you run the same settings)

Any advice appreciated

Matt

The car isn't the same but here's Danny McGee's 5.5 setup:

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/escsetups/setupsheets/rs/offroad/v223/offroad_5.5_4MOD_Danny%20McGee_Silverstone_v223.pd f

[mattr]

Looks like the softwares been updated.
No description on the play store (yet), can anyone confirm what is in the new release.

[neallewis]

Looks like the softwares been updated.
No description on the play store (yet), can anyone confirm what is in the new release.

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html

10.2 Includes the following features:

250 firmware platform specific to the RSX, RS GEN2, RS SPEC and RX8 GEN2.

Pending ROAR Approval

Added BEC Voltage to Data Logging

New display features in Data Logging for run comparisons

[mattr]

Fwiw that's the old software description.

The description on the play store has been updated now.
Bit more detail regarding software versions and gen 1 support.

I'll be ordering a hotwire today.

[CrashBangWallop]

Hi, I downloaded the app and ordered an adaptor lead for my phone.
All connected up and the phone does not see the hotwire, my lead and hotwire works fine on a mates phone but not mine. My phone is running android jelly bean so should be ok ?
My phone does connect via a data cable to PC so its not the phone, hotwire or adaptor so what's going on ? Any help appreciated.

[Danny Harrison]

Hi, I downloaded the app and ordered an adaptor lead for my phone.
All connected up and the phone does not see the hotwire, my lead and hotwire works fine on a mates phone but not mine. My phone is running android jelly bean so should be ok ?
My phone does connect via a data cable to PC so its not the phone, hotwire or adaptor so what's going on ? Any help appreciated.

First thing id check is the adaptor. There are two types and although they look the same they are not. You need an ota cable which is wired differently than a micro usb to usb lead.

If the adaptor is not the issue, try uninstall the hotwire app and download sgain. Its possible you have an older version.

[mattr]

Any ideas whose got this in stock in the UK (or EU) as tekins dealer page is next to useless, unless i want to become an importer, which would be nice, but not exactly financially sensible!

[Danny Harrison]

Any ideas whose got this in stock in the UK (or EU) as tekins dealer page is next to useless, unless i want to become an importer, which would be nice, but not exactly financially sensible!
Do you meen the hotwire?
I got my rsx from mb models. Previously i had got my tekin gear from insideline racing as they had a price cheaper than most shops could buy them for at the time.

Mb likely have stock.

[mattr]

Yeah, hotwire 2.0, sorry should have been clearer!
MB and inside line either don't list the 2.0, or don't have stock.

[thorny97]

RC Disco stock these items, if they are not on the web site give greg a call,

RC Disco import Tekin into the UK

01530 414417.

[Randy p]

Hi, I downloaded the app and ordered an adaptor lead for my phone.
All connected up and the phone does not see the hotwire, my lead and hotwire works fine on a mates phone but not mine. My phone is running android jelly bean so should be ok ?
My phone does connect via a data cable to PC so its not the phone, hotwire or adaptor so what's going on ? Any help appreciated.

What phone do you have? JB OS is fine with the new app in the Play Store. However you need to make sure your phone is compatible. Some do not provide enough power to run the HW on it's own.

So when you plug in the HW to your phone, does the green led light up?

[CrashBangWallop]

What phone do you have? JB OS is fine with the new app in the Play Store. However you need to make sure your phone is compatible. Some do not provide enough power to run the HW on it's own.

So when you plug in the HW to your phone, does the green led light up?

Hi Randy. The green light does not come on the hotwire using my phone. My hotwire & adaptor lead work fine on a HTC One. My phone is a Motorola XT890 RAZR i.

Thanks in advance.

[Randy p]

On some of the Razr phones you must plug in and power up the car. The phone doesn't supply enough power via the USB OTG cable. Powered USB hubs also work.

[CrashBangWallop]

On some of the Razr phones you must plug in and power up the car. The phone doesn't supply enough power via the USB OTG cable. Powered USB hubs also work.

Hi Randy, tried plugging in the hotwire and powering up the car. Still not working but do get a rapid flashing green light on the hotwire. App still does not see the hotwire being connected at all on my phone.

[CrashBangWallop]

On some of the Razr phones you must plug in and power up the car. The phone doesn't supply enough power via the USB OTG cable. Powered USB hubs also work.

Hi Randy, tried plugging in the hotwire and powering up the car. Still not working but do get a rapid flashing green light on the hotwire. App still does not see the hotwire being connected at all on my phone.

[Randy p]

Ok, then my first guess is that the cable you have isn't an OTG cable. Is this a HW 1.0 or 2.0?

My other thought is that your phone doesn't support OTG at all, which it must.

[CrashBangWallop]

Hi Randy, the hotwire I have is a Gen1 and Gen1 RS speedo.

The cable is an OTG cable.

Again I tried my hotwire, my OTG cable on my RS with my mates HTC and it worked fine. Plug it back in to my phone and nothing.

The trouble seems to be my phone or a compatibility issue. I was told that some Apps don't work on my phone because of the processor powering it - Intel.

Thinking I need to get another phone :(

[Jason B]

Hi,

Grateful for some set up advice for my RSX and my new gen 2 Tekin 6.5 motor. I have seen the set up charts on the Tekin website but they differ so much from my RS Pro settings I really could do with a starting point.
I run a Durango DEX410 v4 and my current set up for the RS Pro is as follows:

Gearing 21/87 – Novak 6.5 (Ballistic)
Dual mode (forward/brake only)
Drag brake 10
Starting RPM 3150
End RPM 20016
Throttle profile 3
Current limit 90
Throttle Minimum 3
Push control off
Brake Strength 90
Neutral width 5
Voltage cut off 2S
Timing advance 80
Brake minimum 0
Active brake off

The above is good apart from the motor heat which can be in the mid to high 80s celsius so whilst I would like a similar base set up for mid - high grip tracks, I would like the motor to be a bit cooler. I do notice that 6.5s seem to be geared at 20 (I have always geared at 21 for several years with different speedos as well) and not dual mode on the RSX so grateful for some specific pointers so can then tune the speedo.
Cheer!

Jason

[Danny Harrison]

Hi Jason, I've done lots of testing and have pushed my RSX and 5.5 pretty far without thermal issues.

Try this.

Drop down to a 19 or 20 pinion.

Run sensored only with 75-85% current limit.

0 boost

Then dial in some turbo until you get the desired speed down the straight. I have delay at 0.14 or so.

Mines real smooth like this but still ballistic down straight.

Them gen 2 motors and RSX run pretty cool compared to my rspro and gen1.

[Jason B]

Thanks very much Danny - presumably my other old rs pro settings are ok and also will the car be slow down the straight with no turbo?

Thanks

Jason

[Danny Harrison]

Thanks very much Danny - presumably my other old rs pro settings are ok and also will the car be slow down the straight with no turbo?

Thanks

Jason
My logic is by gearing it down lower, its less stress on the motor on 95% of the track. The turbo then raises the top speed to make up for the lower gearing but only comes in on the straight.

My rs pro didn't like turbo on mod motors but the new RSX seems to do it without breaking a sweat. I'm yet to see the fan turn on.

Mine runs great like this.

[Randy p]

What you also must understand is that the Gen2 esc's including the RSX have MUCH MUCH stronger boost than the Rs Pro or other Gen1 esc's.

It's so much stronger there's a red warning sheet in the package if you read it ;)

[Jason B]

Thanks very much for the help guys

Cheers

Jason

[kartstuffer]

Hi Randy
Was running my TM2 at the weekend ( RS with 7.5 Tekin motor) and just at the start of the last final i turned it on and gave a rev to check all was ok put it on the ground and it wouldnt go . No noise ,smoke or anything ,thought it was the motor as it had the burnt smell, but on checking this it is fine.
RS is about 2 years old (bought in US)with no problems until now ?
Where should i send for checking, repair.
Thanks

[Randy p]

What led's are shown when the unit powers up? Does it chime when powered up?