Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[dimblum]

I tried to eliminate the slop and never found a perfect solution. I have used the Tamiya Aluminum steering bridge, an aluminum servo horn and the front CVD's (regular and Wide Operating). It took away some of the slop, but not all of it.

The good news is the slop doesn't really seem to affect control of the car.. It has always had really responsive steering control.


just building a db01r now, and noticed the steering is not slop free. There is just abit of play, maybe too much, and yes its built correctly.

What are you guys doing for a fix?

any good aftermarket items that are better than kit?

[dimblum]

I have always greased mine in off-road (indoor and outdoor) and have not had any problems so far. They have gotten a little dirty, but not enough to feel gritty.. I was told by other racers that I should avoid greasing them, but always felt better adding some lubricant.

I use moly grease on mine.. I never considered using AW grease since it felt too sticky.. I figure the easier it is for the CVD's to move the better.

I haven't maintained mine too much (guilty), but have not noticed any wear and tear issues to be concerned about either. They are still going strong after 2 1/2 years of racing :)

does anyone bother greasing the cvd's in off road?

I never usually do, as it just attracts dirt > wear, unless you maintain them like crazy.

Whats your call on this, and if you do, is AW grease the best?

or I was thinking maybe some dry film lubricant

[TonyV2382]

The calibers are definitly the way to go outdoors. I was lapping nitro cars on the outdoor track last week with my db01 and that tire combo. I run calibers on my nitro truggy as well.

For indoors I would recommend the bkbars or the bar codes for rear but I always run losi taper pins up front, pink compound all around.

Dimblum, happy to hear of your success with the ae springs. I too found them to be well suited for the car. What sux now is I have to buy 2 sets, one for the 501 and one for the durga lol.

[Carno]

The calibers are definitly the way to go outdoors. I was lapping nitro cars on the outdoor track last week with my db01 and that tire combo. I run calibers on my nitro truggy as well.

For indoors I would recommend the bkbars or the bar codes for rear but I always run losi taper pins up front, pink compound all around.


I drive on an outdoor clay track and most of the 4x4 short course trucks use calibers here and are very pleased with them.
At the moment I'm using hole-shots myself but they wear insanely fast.
(esp. with a tight slipper.)

Waiting for someone here to try the Caliber buggy tire as I've just ordered some Jconcepts double dee's and goosebumps.

[Hobine]

Great thread guys, I've enjoyed reading through most of it.

Here's my problem. First time I melted my diffs I was running a MM5700 without a slipper clutch, it worked OK with the 7.2V NIMH pack. Then I got greedy and tried a 3S lipo. Not surprisingly melted both front and rear diff pulleys. Kind of fun while it lasted, the car must have been going 50-60mph!

I've since rebuilt everything with a slipper clutch, only using the 7.2 V pack and have tuned the ECS settings for soft starts. Well yesterday the damn rear diff melted again. I could hear the slipper working so now I'm wondering what happened. I know some of you guys are running higher powered motors so what's the secret?

Any suggestions are most appreciated.

[TonyV2382]

Great thread guys, I've enjoyed reading through most of it.

Here's my problem. First time I melted my diffs I was running a MM5700 without a slipper clutch, it worked OK with the 7.2V NIMH pack. Then I got greedy and tried a 3S lipo. Not surprisingly melted both front and rear diff pulleys. Kind of fun while it lasted, the car must have been going 50-60mph!

I've since rebuilt everything with a slipper clutch, only using the 7.2 V pack and have tuned the ECS settings for soft starts. Well yesterday the damn rear diff melted again. I could hear the slipper working so now I'm wondering what happened. I know some of you guys are running higher powered motors so what's the secret?

Any suggestions are most appreciated.

Dont worry this problem is typical for someone new to this car. If you are using the stock diff halves they can melt right on to the pulleys. The stock diff halves are plastic and hold these metal plates. As friction builds up, the plastic melts around the metal plates and also can cause the pulley itself to melt or get destroyed.

What you need is 501x diffs in the front and the rear. OR, more affordable and just as good, you can get the 3racing Heavy Duty diffs from ebay...http://cgi.ebay.com/3Racing-Alum-Diff-Joint-Heavy-Duty-Tamiya-DB01-DURGA-/200361813205?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea67ea4d5

The 3racing diffs are metal through and through. No plastic pieces to melt or break. Also they are quite a bit larger than the stock ones so they cover more of the pulley and rest better on the diff balls....which btw you should get the TRF ceramic ones...http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-TRF-3mm-Ceramic-Diff-Ball-12pcs-42142-/350343854760?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51921efaa8

These balls are a heck of a lot more durable and have less friction than the stock ones. They also last so much longer. I used to run a MM7700 and I never had issues. Always make sure your slipper is set correctly and also check to make sure that the pulleys in the center arent missing any teeth either. You never know:confused:

Once you get all this sorted out (and hopefully for the last time) you are ready to rock again. And you wont have this issue come up. As a tip when you do get the HD diffs do not glue the metal plates to the diff halves. Just use the AW grease Tamiya gives you to secure the plate on. No gluing is needed and if you have any questions just ask.

[fastinfastout]

so I have just built a db01r, and to my surprise the car needed quite a few shims all over the place as it was very sloppy on arms, hubs, steering etc.

in particular the rear end, where I shimmed the axles and the rear hubs. But after shimming them as tight as I could without binding, I still noticed there was still some play.

So pulled it all apart, and noticed that the bore of the hole for the rear hubs are abit larger than the hinge pin itself, so I am getting side to side play, which cannot be shimmed up. Also, noticed the bearings are very easy to insert into the front and rear hubs, which also creates more unnecessary slop!

Question, has anyone gone to aluminum hubs, made by 3racing or yeah racing, or genuine tamiya hubs that are better than the standard hubs?

I have not even used this car yet, and its already getting on my nerve. But I suppose coming from a durango, anything built after that will be 2nd class quality.

Are all tamiya's like this? I was planning on getting the new 2wd when it comes out soon, but now even having 2nd thoughts.

[TonyV2382]

so I have just built a db01r, and to my surprise the car needed quite a few shims all over the place as it was very sloppy on arms, hubs, steering etc.

in particular the rear end, where I shimmed the axles and the rear hubs. But after shimming them as tight as I could without binding, I still noticed there was still some play.

So pulled it all apart, and noticed that the bore of the hole for the rear hubs are abit larger than the hinge pin itself, so I am getting side to side play, which cannot be shimmed up. Also, noticed the bearings are very easy to insert into the front and rear hubs, which also creates more unnecessary slop!

Question, has anyone gone to aluminum hubs, made by 3racing or yeah racing, or genuine tamiya hubs that are better than the standard hubs?

I have not even used this car yet, and its already getting on my nerve. But I suppose coming from a durango, anything built after that will be 2nd class quality.

Are all tamiya's like this? I was planning on getting the new 2wd when it comes out soon, but now even having 2nd thoughts.

Dont get all bent out of shape dude. This is a lower end kit that has some flaws but when fully upgraded it will destroy most buggies and leave them in its wake. Believe me on that. I never saw any slop with the rear hubs, and once you add the blue shim plus the pin for the wheel, the bearings wont fall out of the hub. If youre going to use aluminum hubs, which I do recommend, I would go with genuine tamiya parts. They sit lower than the other brand stuff and the adjusters wont rub on the rear rims. The 3racing or GPM rears are tall and Ive noticed that they come dangerously close to the adjusters and if you leave it the rear rims will grind down the adjusters and your wheel will just pop off at some point. So what ever you do buy the tamiya brand hubs.

3racing stuff is good, but I only use the diffs from them and nothing else. And remember we are talking about a pretty cheap kit here. Its like 3-4X cheaper than a durango so to compare the two in terms of quality is ridiculous. You get what you pay for. So if you want to get everything out of DB01 you're gonna have to drop some coin on it to spec it up.

[simoncrabb]

If youre going to use aluminum hubs, which I do recommend, I would go with genuine tamiya parts. They sit lower than the other brand stuff and the adjusters wont rub on the rear rims. The 3racing or GPM rears are tall and Ive noticed that they come dangerously close to the adjusters and if you leave it the rear rims will grind down the adjusters and your wheel will just pop off at some point. So what ever you do buy the tamiya brand hubs.

I use the GPM rear hubs and they are fine with no clearance problems?

I also use the GPM front hubs on both my DB01 and 511, they fit with the WO axles with a narrower inner bearing.

GPM? :thumbsup:

[TonyV2382]

I use the GPM rear hubs and they are fine with no clearance problems?

I also use the GPM front hubs on both my DB01 and 511, they fit with the WO axles with a narrower inner bearing.

GPM? :thumbsup:

I dunno man, I have had my adjusters ground down because of those hubs. I also am running the AC rear tower so that may be why but from what I can see they do touch. I would just do the TRF stuff off the bat just to get it right.

I also have the front GPM knuckles and theyre strong as hell. I also have the steering bridge from them and its also strong. I once tried the 3racing bridge and i bent it into a U shape after I nose dived off a triple. GPM def. make stronger stuff than 3racing but just so that theres no fitment issues I would go TRF parts.

[Hobine]

Dont worry this problem is typical for someone new to this car. If you are using the stock diff halves they can melt right on to the pulleys. The stock diff halves are plastic and hold these metal plates. As friction builds up, the plastic melts around the metal plates and also can cause the pulley itself to melt or get destroyed.

What you need is 501x diffs in the front and the rear. OR, more affordable and just as good, you can get the 3racing Heavy Duty diffs from ebay...http://cgi.ebay.com/3Racing-Alum-Diff-Joint-Heavy-Duty-Tamiya-DB01-DURGA-/200361813205?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea67ea4d5

The 3racing diffs are metal through and through. No plastic pieces to melt or break. Also they are quite a bit larger than the stock ones so they cover more of the pulley and rest better on the diff balls....which btw you should get the TRF ceramic ones...http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-TRF-3mm-Ceramic-Diff-Ball-12pcs-42142-/350343854760?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51921efaa8

These balls are a heck of a lot more durable and have less friction than the stock ones. They also last so much longer. I used to run a MM7700 and I never had issues. Always make sure your slipper is set correctly and also check to make sure that the pulleys in the center arent missing any teeth either. You never know:confused:

Once you get all this sorted out (and hopefully for the last time) you are ready to rock again. And you wont have this issue come up. As a tip when you do get the HD diffs do not glue the metal plates to the diff halves. Just use the AW grease Tamiya gives you to secure the plate on. No gluing is needed and if you have any questions just ask.


Thanks for the quick response! I've already ordered the 3Racing diff halves and ceramic balls. I thought the slipper would have done the trick but I guess theres just too much heat.

So no glue on the steel plates with the metal diff halves - got it!

One more question. Do I need to use that special diff ball grease that came with the kit? The pathetically small tube is empty.

Thanks!

[TonyV2382]

One more question. Do I need to use that special diff ball grease that came with the kit? The pathetically small tube is empty.

Thanks!

just order a few tubes of hudy or AE diff grease. But the tamiya AW grease is good just for holding the plates, not for the diff balls themselves. also make sure your pulleys are in good shape. You might need new ones as well. sometimes the plastic around where the balls sit melts too.

[Hobine]

just order a few tubes of hudy or AE diff grease. But the tamiya AW grease is good just for holding the plates, not for the diff balls themselves. also make sure your pulleys are in good shape. You might need new ones as well. sometimes the plastic around where the balls sit melts too.


Ordering new pulleys was not an option. Melted the center section right out so it was no longer connected to the outer:o

[TonyV2382]

Ordering new pulleys was not an option. Melted the center section right out so it was no longer connected to the outer:o

LoL...I figured that would happen.

[fastinfastout]

Dont get all bent out of shape dude. This is a lower end kit that has some flaws but when fully upgraded it will destroy most buggies and leave them in its wake. Believe me on that. I never saw any slop with the rear hubs, and once you add the blue shim plus the pin for the wheel, the bearings wont fall out of the hub. If youre going to use aluminum hubs, which I do recommend, I would go with genuine tamiya parts. They sit lower than the other brand stuff and the adjusters wont rub on the rear rims. The 3racing or GPM rears are tall and Ive noticed that they come dangerously close to the adjusters and if you leave it the rear rims will grind down the adjusters and your wheel will just pop off at some point. So what ever you do buy the tamiya brand hubs.

3racing stuff is good, but I only use the diffs from them and nothing else. And remember we are talking about a pretty cheap kit here. Its like 3-4X cheaper than a durango so to compare the two in terms of quality is ridiculous. You get what you pay for. So if you want to get everything out of DB01 you're gonna have to drop some coin on it to spec it up.
I have no doubt a standard db01r is the equal to ANY current 4wd out now.

even with the standard hubs, the adjusters come awfully close to the wheel. Might need to trim the adjuster abit to prevent it from rubbing. I will purchase a alloy rear hub anyway. The slop isnt that bad, just that I'm abit picky on a new car.

[TonyV2382]

I have no doubt a standard db01r is the equal to ANY current 4wd out now.

even with the standard hubs, the adjusters come awfully close to the wheel. Might need to trim the adjuster abit to prevent it from rubbing. I will purchase a alloy rear hub anyway. The slop isnt that bad, just that I'm abit picky on a new car.

I know it does come close, I already had an issue thats why Im recommending the TRF hubs. I also have a 501x WE and those hube are nice and low and clear the wheel perfectly. go for those.;)

[fastinfastout]

so then I would assume standard 501x hubs would fit if they are the same shape/dimension as the tamiya alloy 501x hubs.

if so, I might try the 501x plastic ones, as the tamiya alloy hubs are quite pricy:o

[Carno]

so then I would assume standard 501x hubs would fit if they are the same shape/dimension as the tamiya alloy 501x hubs.

if so, I might try the 501x plastic ones, as the tamiya alloy hubs are quite pricy:o

Think they're the same just different blend of plastic.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=51274

[fastinfastout]

Think they're the same just different blend of plastic.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=51274

oh, I just assumed the 501x plastic rear hubs were like their alloy aftermarket ones, which have vertical ball stud arrangement like these
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53962

I'll order the 51274 anyway and hope they have less play in them.

[AJ Roberts]

Anyone used 3racing carbon shock mounts and are they any good?????

[i4n]

Anyone used 3racing carbon shock mounts and are they any good?????

If you meant the shock towers don't bother - cheddar cheese is stronger!

Get the Atomic Carbon ones instead http://atomic-carbon.gforceimages.net/cfp.html

[AJ Roberts]

If you meant the shock towers don't bother - cheddar cheese is stronger!

Get the Atomic Carbon ones instead http://atomic-carbon.gforceimages.net/cfp.html


Cheers for the heads up m8, ill check out those atomic ones, they look the dogz........ :D

[Carno]

Another heads up if you're thinking of purchasing.

The AC towers are thinner then the stock towers so you'll need to use longer screws and some spacers to keep the dampers upright.

You'll also need different ball connectors with a nut on the back cause you can't screw them directly into the carbon.

I'd suggest using these http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53969

[TonyV2382]

actually instead of longer ball studs you should just use the ball studs that let you add the screw through them so you can get the length just right...such as these....http://cgi.ebay.com/3Racing-4-8MM-HEX-Ball-Stud-L-5-10pcs-/170479179873?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item27b159d861

The only reason I suggest those is because you will have the rest of the threading sticking out the front of your tower if you get the longer ball studs Carno suggested. With these though you get the right length screw and the ball stud acts like the nut and it looks cleaner. ;)

[TonyV2382]

here are some pics...

[TonyV2382]

More pics...

[Lewbert]

Great thread on the Durga,

Learnt a lot from it for my durga build, my first serious rc car, I normally fly rc helicopters.

Just about to start work on masking and painting the body and tail.

Lovely design, very enjoyable build, tapped just about every hole! Went for a few upgrades, TRF DAMPERS (still to fit), AC rear shock tower (also still to fit), ally suspension mounts, MKS servo for steering (installed after pics taken) with metal mounts and a clutch slipper (still to fit) for when I go brushess. Need to get 501X metal diff joints still tho.

Cant wait to get down my local club for my first taste of racing, looks like a whole lot of fun!

Anyways just wanted to say hello. :thumbsup:

[Lewbert]

Just the decals to go!

[Lewbert]

:thumbsup:

[ayske1]

Hi all, new to the forums

Can anyone advise how the paint job for the DB01 featured on the review by Mr Oople was done? Would it have been an airbrush job or could it have been done purely by spray cans for R/C bodies. Im hoping to follow the same colour scheme for another body but don't want to venture into airbrushing due to costs!

Thanks peeps!

[jerrylites]

Hi all. im thinking of nano tech lipo but their dimensions are152x49x17mm... very long. wondering if someone could measure up the battery compartment in their db01 and tell me the max dimension of lipo i can fit please.

thanks all.

[Spoolio]

Can't get to my DB01 - it's buried and I've not seen it for years - but a "standard" brick pack lipo fits no problem but you do need to unscrew the battery posts quite a bit if it's a tall lipo pack.

[terry.sc]

Hi all. im thinking of nano tech lipo but their dimensions are152x49x17mm... very long. wondering if someone could measure up the battery compartment in their db01 and tell me the max dimension of lipo i can fit please.
If this is the battery you are looking at http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__17264__Turnigy_nano_tech_5000mah_2S_45_90C_Lipo_ Pack.html then it won't fit in any buggy as it's not designed for normal cars. It's a soft pack so you would not be allowed to race anywhere with it either.

If you go here http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/RC_PRODUCT_SEARCH.asp?searchType=10&strSearch=hard+case+2s&location=GB&idCategory=&sortBy=Relevant&NumPerPage=20&currentPage= you will find plenty of hard case packs that are all designed around the industry standard dimensions so all will drop straight into any modern buggy.

[fabolousRC]

Hi all. im thinking of nano tech lipo but their dimensions are152x49x17mm... very long. wondering if someone could measure up the battery compartment in their db01 and tell me the max dimension of lipo i can fit please.

thanks all.

You need to get either a DB01R or DB01RR chassis as they are made for lipo use compared the standard ridge and valleys of the side by side Nimh packs.

Or and if they are still available, you can use Team Orion "stick pack" Lipo instead.

[Kiwi Kruisa]

Hi all,

Recommendations of angle e.g 0 deg , 0.5 and 1.0 for rear uprights for Db01 for dirt or clay. Looking at the TRF 201x alloy block.

Cheers

[super gripper]

the DB01 comes with 3 deg already from the rear pivot pin braces.