DEX 210 Building Tips/Issues

[jkclifford]

Not pretty, but I don't care about that, I just want to win. Run a bit of ptfe tape around the shock body this will stop the auto adjust!!

[kayce]

Anyone find that the shock collars are very loose? I presume there will be a alu upgrade of is the way to go tresey? I do like them as they are easy to change but seem to move by them selves.

Tips?

Had noticed the same on my V3 i also felt that they moved themselves. There are Alumonium upgrades from TD which i will probably buy, there is also a rubber ring which you have to buy seperately i think. A bit strange but i think it´s the only solution to that. Or anyone has a cheaper solution? :confused:

I've used rubber o-rings, snugged to the top of the collar, works fairly well.
In the past I've also coated the threads on shock bodies with some threadlock, allowed it to dry over night (sometimes required a couple of coats), and it seemed to work pretty well. :)

[mikeyscott]

Car was faultless at TORCH. Diff stayed clean too as it was wet. First time out :)

[bryan durango]

Finished mine and the above was not an issue you just screw the long ones almost to the end and then, use the plastic part with the nuts to finish the assemply with just a few more turns
yes thats what i done but then you only have 2 screws which are firmly securing the gearbox to the chassis. the 2 at the rear need this modification to do their proper job

[kartstuffer]

Ran mine for the first time 10 mins after finishing the build ,set up as the book except for using small bore 410 shocks and it ran and handled perfectly on indoor damp astro. No build issues and couldn`t be happier with it :thumbsup:
A few photos to follow when i get a chance.

[OneKiwi]

I blew a bearing whats the replacement number?
Manual says 601022 is 5x8x2.5 TD site says 601022 is 5x8x3

Its the bearing that holds the layshaft in place in the diff housing.

Whats correct?

Where is a good place to get upgraded ball bearings for 210 as well? Would the thrust balls need replacing/upgrading?

[gainsy]

601020 is the part number for 5x8x2.5, both options are listed in the manual in the parts section, not sure why though :confused:
I have just priced up a ceramic bearing kit from here, comes out around £55 + p&p
http://www.avidrc.com/

[OneKiwi]

sorry ment diff balls not ceramic just hardened. My diff works well just would be nice to have a spare set

[gainsy]

I have buds balls in mine, available from Telstar racing
Am also using nuclear diff grease available from oople member belsten on here
Silky smooth :D

[dirk702]

When will the second batch be in stock off the DEX210 ? :)
Any news from that ?

[OneKiwi]

What is the kit/stock springs? Blue I know just dark or light front and rear.

[Andyp]

What is the kit/stock springs? Blue I know just dark or light front and rear.

TD330137 front , dk blue

TD33151 rear, light blue

[kwiksi]

First raceday yest with the 210. No issues with kit diff or ball cups. :thumbsup:
Did break a rear tower, but I think I would have broke one anyway with a diff buggy the way it landed.

[OneKiwi]

So got the new motor today... nice and shiny yah.
LRP x12 8.5 with the standard spur 87T what pinion should I run for a tight carpet track?

Manual said in a 2wd the ratio should be 8.5.1
Whats this and how do I work it out?
I have seen this explained before but cant remember where I saw it.

[ronsand]

A 26t pinion will give you 8.7 FDR and I believe that is the largest pinion you can fit with the 87t spur.

I have attached a screen-shot of a spreadsheet I'm using and the spreadsheet (zip'ed). Please use as you like.

PS! looking forward to try out the slick tires I ordered from you yesterday :)

[TonyM]

So got the new motor today... nice and shiny yah.
LRP x12 8.5 with the standard spur 87T what pinion should I run for a tight carpet track?

Manual said in a 2wd the ratio should be 8.5.1
Whats this and how do I work it out?
I have seen this explained before but cant remember where I saw it.
Final Drive Ratio = Spur/Pinion * Internal Drive Ratio
E.g 87/26*2.6 = 8.7 FDR. Not far off your 8.5.

I've run an 8.5 on a 26 pinion and found it about right on a tight carpet track. However, yesterday I ran a 9.5 with 27 pinion and this was as smooth as silk. To get the pinion to fit I had to lengthen the motor plate slots a few mm. Now the motor is just touching the chassis, so a 27T is about the max you'll get into a 210, with standard Spur.

[OneKiwi]

thanks, thats larger than what I have been using.. might be why I get quite high temps, the motor is spinning too fast.

ronsand I have shipped your slicks BTW

where do you get the 2.6 from in that equation? spur divided by 10?

[chris_dono]

2.6 is the internal ratio of the 210.

I ran a 10.5 motor over the weekend geared with a 23 pinion ! BUT it was outdoors and I had my speedo set up for it. Gearing will always depend on your driving style/setup as well as the track :)

[ronsand]

2.6 is the internal gear ratio for the DEX210 (layshaft gears + diff-gear)

[TonyM]

A question regarding the diffs. I've tried the usual method of fully tightening and then backing off 1/8th of a turn and I find my diffs still to be very tight. Another 1/3 turn seems about right, ie. backing off around a half-turn from fully tight. Do others experience this and is it possibly because of the larger diff balls (3mm compared to 2.5 on the Losi and AE machines) delivering a greater surface area and increased friction?

[MikePimlott]

I ran mine for the first time yesterday with no issues what so ever. However i did notice you can overtighten the rear wheels which wouldnt do the diff any favours :lol:

[triplesix]

That's what I noticed as well.
If you tighten the rear wheels to much, some binding will occur.
I guess this can be cured simply with a spacer between the inner and outer ball bearing in the hubs - as found on other cars...

[1armed1]

A traditional crush spacer will not work due to the inner bearing size, but.....

Place a 5x6x.2mm shim on the axle before installing in the hub.

There is a step in the axle, the face of that step meets up with the inner edge of the outer hub bearing.

Placing a small shim on the axle before that step will take the side load off the outer hub bearing making it last much longer, with no bind.

.2mm was plenty on my car to crank the wheels down with no binding, but experiment to see what you need.

Dayton

[triplesix]

great info!
thx

[losichris]

has anyone been running the 210 without the droop screws on the rear? fully tightened doesnt give much

[1armed1]

Chris,
I run rm3 on a medium grip tack.
Ran the first weekend with out them, Started the day saturday with them in.
After 2 packs I took them off.

Dayton

[Gunthar Guntharsën]

has anyone been running the 210 without the droop screws on the rear? fully tightened doesnt give much

I put them in the wrong way when I built the car (from the top instead of the bottom). But without the ends sticking out of the arms, so full droop. The car kept throwing it's ass up on the big jumps. And not a little bit. I just noticed I put them in wrong today, so I haven't ran the car since, but I think it was because of the droop screws.

Only ran the car on sunday, received it last wednesday. It handles great though. Had tons of grip and as much steering as you like.

[graveltrap]

Out of interest what antisquat are you running? It seems a lack of rear droop might well be related to running the 0 degree block...

[losichris]

im running the 3 degree blocks

[acorn28]

Finally finished building my 210, looks a cracking car and looking forward to getting out on the track. One issue I discovered last night is the right rear wheel is unable to fully rotate when the suspension is at full compression and full extension. When fully compressed the wheel rotation is forcing the suspension back down and vice versa.

I'm guessing its something simple, but my tired eyes and brain couldn't spot anything obvious. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

[gainsy]

Make sure the driveshaft isn't coming into contact with the locking nut inside the diff outdrive, sounds like it might not be all the way inside the outdrive

[Nick]

has anyone been running the 210 without the droop screws on the rear? fully tightened doesnt give much


I counter sink the head of the droop screw in to the arm to give extra droop! even with a 0 degree block it has plenty of droop

[acorn28]

Make sure the driveshaft isn't coming into contact with the locking nut inside the diff outdrive, sounds like it might not be all the way inside the outdrive

The nut is pretty much all the way down, any further and the diff is too tight. I'm getting the same problem when the suspension is fully extended so the driveshaft is at the opposite end of the outdrive.

[rednoise]

Acorn , check your CVDs...Invert right and left cvds , if the problem inverts too , it seems the pin of the cvd is in "the wrong hole"...
Sorry for my approximative english.

[gainsy]

The nut is pretty much all the way down, any further and the diff is too tight. I'm getting the same problem when the suspension is fully extended so the driveshaft is at the opposite end of the outdrive.

Hmmm, dumb question here but are the hubs on the right sides? very easy to put them the wrong way round as they look universal but there is a deffinate way they go on, i accidently put mine on the wrong way round when i built mine
Just a thought :)

Heres a few pics of mine showing fully compressed, fully extended & the diff outdrive with the nut on the left side of the car & fully in, i compressed the spring a few times with pliers before i put it in & gave the nut a light tap to allow it to go in properly

[acorn28]

Thanks both. I'm reasonably confident its not an issue with the diff/outdrives, but never say never! I'll check the hubs and the position of the pin in the cvd tonight after work and let you know the outcome. Cheers for your help.

[bigred5765]

make sure drive shafts arent catching the slots in the diff outputs, ie to much travel in the shocks

[Matt Butcher]

Hmmm, dumb question here but are the hubs on the right sides? very easy to put them the wrong way round as they look universal but there is a deffinate way they go on, i accidently put mine on the wrong way round when i built mine
Just a thought :)

Heres a few pics of mine showing fully compressed, fully extended & the diff outdrive with the nut on the left side of the car & fully in, i compressed the spring a few times with pliers before i put it in & gave the nut a light tap to allow it to go in properly


your missing your rear bumper :confused:

[gainsy]

your missing your rear bumper :confused:
Yep i sure am, can't see what difference it makes having it on to be honest

[OneKiwi]

Where did you get those spacers that go in the arm holder in the rear? If they were in the kit then Im missing mine

Same with the other spacers

[gainsy]

Where did you get those spacers that go in the arm holder in the rear? If they were in the kit then Im missing mine

Same with the other spacers

I got the spacers from DMS Racing, they came in a pack of 6, 2 x 1.5mm 2 x 2mm & 2 x 2.5mm, i think they were about £2 a pack

[acorn28]

Thanks both. I'm reasonably confident its not an issue with the diff/outdrives, but never say never! I'll check the hubs and the position of the pin in the cvd tonight after work and let you know the outcome. Cheers for your help.

Sorted now thanks guys, issue was the pin in the cvd, so a nice simple fix. Thanks for your help.

[gainsy]

Sorted now thanks guys, issue was the pin in the cvd, so a nice simple fix. Thanks for your help.

Good to hear it is all sorted :D

[CaveDweller]

Where did you get those spacers that go in the arm holder in the rear? If they were in the kit then Im missing mine

Same with the other spacers

Check the online manuel. The tree number in the original manual is wrong.

[CaveDweller]

Take a look at Gainsy's middle picture.

I cannot understand the logic of this.

The rear arm holders two middle screw holes are threaded. How does that match up with to nuts thats locked in plastic?
And on top of that the two screws needed are 30mm counter sunk, but there's no CS where they go?
On top of that: when you look in the manual, both original and online, and check the exploded views the rear arm holder has different part numbers for RM or MM. But when i look the part numbers up on the durango site, only one of them is the arm holder, and it's the arm holder thats threaded.

This all make no sense to me.

I would think the armholder had no threading and that normal flat screws were to be used.

[Andyp]

Take a look at Gainsy's middle picture.

I cannot understand the logic of this.

The rear arm holders two middle screw holes are threaded. How does that match up with to nuts thats locked in plastic?
And on top of that the two screws needed are 30mm counter sunk, but there's no CS where they go?


I think the 'arm holder' needs to be threaded for the rm but not for the mm but it isnt really a problem, i just held everything in place and wound the screw thro the whole lot,everything pulled down and tightend nicely

as for the c/s they is meant to be a small bumper on the rear that is c/s so the c/s head locate into it.

[rednoise]

Sorted now thanks guys, issue was the pin in the cvd, so a nice simple fix. Thanks for your help.
:thumbsup:

[mikeyscott]

Well got my shell all sorted on it last night and so forth. I'll be honest I'm not loving it at present, so am tempted to head back to a Cougar SV. At least there are spares for it lol

Car was pretty good on track, just can't get to like it.

[kbrunsden]

whats not to like it handels well its strong what more do you need

[jamiekerr14]

Well got my shell all sorted on it last night and so forth. I'll be honest I'm not loving it at present, so am tempted to head back to a Cougar SV. At least there are spares for it lol

Car was pretty good on track, just can't get to like it.


Bit confused about that mikey.. if it was good why change.. and only after a few goes with it. For me it looks great body is sleek and looks great. On of the best looking buggies out there imho. And if it drives half as good as it looks, I will be very happy.

[mikeyscott]

Bit confused about that mikey.. if it was good why change.. and only after a few goes with it. For me it looks great body is sleek and looks great. On of the best looking buggies out there imho. And if it drives half as good as it looks, I will be very happy.

Spares, total lack of info and so forth. Just hope there will be some more spares arriving before the MK GP.

I know I've only given it one run, but just ain't fussed about the car anymore. Yes it went well etc. We'll see what happens at MK.

RE the looks, the paint job has to be right. My colours have worked on lot of other shells, but this one mmm the jury is still out...

Maybe it's the whole RC overload thing

[jamiekerr14]

Spares as far as i'm aware.. should be in sometime very soon... but thats been the case for a while. Who cares a shell is a shell in a way.. its how the car drives that does the talking.. yeahg could be. P.S. You have PM on FBook:)

[jimmy]

A few years back before there were decent online resources you'd be right about pretty much all cars - but saying there's a total lack of info when you're constantly reading a forum with absolutely TONS of info is a bit mad.

:woot:

The re-release holiday buggy from Tamiya looks good, give that a try! :thumbsup:

[mikeyscott]

A few years back before there were decent online resources you'd be right about pretty much all cars - but saying there's a total lack of info when you're constantly reading a forum with absolutely TONS of info is a bit mad.

:woot:

The re-release holiday buggy from Tamiya looks good, give that a try! :thumbsup:

I appreciate the input from the forum and agree that there is unofficial information overload these days, but that's the nature of the internet...

I was just expecting a bit more technical tips direct from TD. I.e. lots of comments re how to build the diff etc. I've not had a prob with mine, but would have thought TD would have done a clear guide to put all the variations to bed?

Fingers crossed for TD with the winter season on then 2012

Yes the castor info and so forth was a good one :thumbsup:

I dunno maybe if I'd got the car in spring it'd be a bit more yay about it. Pending winter blues?

Anyway no track time this weekend and decided to work instead overtime to pay pending £260 per tyre bill :(

[Adam Skelding]

£260/Tyre Bill :confused:

Should have checked with the manufacturer about running costs before you bought that!
Maybe a manufacturer tech tip may have helped?:D

[mikeyscott]

£260/Tyre Bill :confused:

Should have checked with the manufacturer about running costs before you bought that!
Maybe a manufacturer tech tip may have helped?:D

Indeed ;) should have bought German, better MPG more power

Crappy unpopular tyre size.. My old 225/40/18 Pilot Sport were far cheaper!

Anyway fingers crossed for a bumper TD delivery next week

Really hope gear diff lands soon

[AmiSMB]

Mikey trust me I have tried the TLR 22 and DEX210 back to back and I find the DEX210 much easier to drive and better handling than the TLR 22 and that is straight out of the box without doing any tweaking. I have had no issues with the DEX210 so far and I have been quite brutal with it :)

[mikeyscott]

Mikey trust me I have tried the TLR 22 and DEX210 back to back and I find the DEX210 much easier to drive and better handling than the TLR 22 and that is straight out of the box without doing any tweaking. I have had no issues with the DEX210 so far and I have been quite brutal with it :)

Yeah I'm not knocking it's track performance..

TLR22 never interested me from day one.

Anyway catch up with you at MK :) - hopefully we'll have enough spares between us lol -

[mikeyscott]

Looks like more 210 items coming through. Fingers crossed for mk

[shark]

Looks like more 210 items coming through. Fingers crossed for mk
Where ?? :(

[gainsy]

Check out this page for some cool bling for your durango
http://www.hiro-seiko.com/product.php
The spacers i have on my dex210, got them from DMS Racing
About £2 a pack :D

[CaveDweller]

I think the 'arm holder' needs to be threaded for the rm but not for the mm but it isnt really a problem, i just held everything in place and wound the screw thro the whole lot,everything pulled down and tightend nicely

as for the c/s they is meant to be a small bumper on the rear that is c/s so the c/s head locate into it.


Right! Got it. Doesn't show in either manual 8/
Thanks.

[Andyp]

Right! Got it. Doesn't show in either manual 8/
Thanks.

Here is a pic to show , it will be floating about on one of the part trees ,


http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4498/bumperm.jpg
By andypearson (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/andypearson) at 2011-11-10

HTH

[CaveDweller]

Here is a pic to show , it will be floating about on one of the part trees ,


http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4498/bumperm.jpg
By andypearson (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/andypearson) at 2011-11-10

HTH

Yep. Found it. Thank you.

Now I've got an issue with the diff.

I recall i read somewhere that there is a difference in the inner and outer diameter of the two shims surrounding the thust. But for the life of me I cant remember whitch goes into the outdrive first...

Someone who can remember?

My issue was the circlip fell out but now I've got it all taken apart I'd like to get it in right.

[Andrew Twigger]

The smaller of the two thrust washers should go against the screw.

[CaveDweller]

Thanks.

A piece of advise...
Remember to insert the spring when assembling the diff. Not doing so will break the locknut when you tighten.

Now I had to improvise a new lock nut 8/

[aztecz]

Have an issue.. Im running the RM4 configuration on the 210 & after a couple of practice & race decided to tear down the car. Did the norm, tore down & rebuild the diff. No Issues.

Thats until i came to the reassembling back the gearbox.
Spun the output shaft & it was ok. All went well till i tighten the 3 long screws on the motor plate. Then the output shaft cant/hard to turn. Put the motor plate on and found it wasnt really flat (Just a little tweak).

Could that be the reason?

[gainsy]

You have overtightened the gearbox screws, back them off a bit & it will be fine

[aztecz]

You have overtightened the gearbox screws, back them off a bit & it will be fine

Cheers Gainsy..

My mate told me about screws being flush & locktite but it slipped my mind.

[Chris-S]

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/2011/11/24/dex210-ball-differential-build-guide-pt1/

[Bungleaio]

Great guide but someone needs to stop biting their nails!

[hottuna]

Maybe not an issue, but i'm surprised there were no shock tools included :confused:
Said and done, i made my own :) And what is more sexy then CF :thumbsup:

[Gunthar Guntharsën]

And what is more sexy then CF :thumbsup:

A pair of huge beautiful ... oh wait that was probably a rhetorical question. :D

[hottuna]

A pair of huge beautiful ... oh wait that was probably a rhetorical question. :D
LOL, A pair of ... you know what is more beautiful, but they are not made of CF, did i hear silicon? :lol:
Back to earth, i missed this tool, normally it's included in the kits.

[hottuna]

I would like to try higher roll centre in the rear, so i put the gearbox in the mill and made this mod :) 2mm lower.
I will try it in next weekends race on a high grip carpet track.

[jkclifford]

nice idea that will be happening to mine .

[Andrew Twigger]

Interesting idea although I've been struggling for rear grip in the most part as it is.

[hottuna]

Interesting idea although I've been struggling for rear grip in the most part as it is.

Me too. But i had a good lesson in setup advice this weekend, and saw it with my own eyes.
A guy drove his 410 on a high grip track, the rear end was very loose.
I'm not good at setups, and my thought had been to loosen the rear up. What he did was the opposite. He put on harder springs, thicker oil and raised the rear roll centre, and the car was planted on the track!
The explanation of that is to get the chassis to roll less, then it keeps the pressure on all 4 wheels, instead of just the outer wheels. It gives you an overall more contact to the surface, and stops the car from roll to much and "getting stucked" in corners.
On a low grip track you want the opposite.

This was a 410, but i'm sure the theory is the same on a 2wd.

[janus_77]

The 410 has (/ had ??) problems with having lower quality bearings.

How are the 210 bearings that are included in the kit ?

[Big G]

no complaints with mine on the 210 or my 410 (bought Dec '10 brand new 2010 spec)

[GRIFF55]

They seem pretty good on my car mate:thumbsup:
New car coming Janus?

[Nick]

I would like to try higher roll centre in the rear, so i put the gearbox in the mill and made this mod :) 2mm lower.
I will try it in next weekends race on a high grip carpet track.

I have removed the camber link mount from the gearbox and made a new carbon one with extra holes also this can be mounted lower than the standard mount! I will up load a pic tomorrow.

[janus_77]

They seem pretty good on my car mate:thumbsup:
New car coming Janus?

Hmmmm tempting..... :drool:

btw you have PM

[Andrew Twigger]

I have removed the camber link mount from the gearbox and made a new carbon one with extra holes also this can be mounted lower than the standard mount! I will up load a pic tomorrow.

More importantly, will you have any with you tonight so I can buy one??!!

[Nick]

Sorry i only made three and there all out on test but will show you mine later mate