DEX 210 Building Tips/Issues

[kabilay]

There are many posts regarding DEX210, but since many of you started building the Kit it could be useful to use this thread reporting building tips and issues found during the process, for us still waiting for the kits to arrive.

Thanks:woot:

[Bungleaio]

I have only done bag A so far and it's gone together without issue.

[TonyM]

When building the diff I scratched my head for a bit as to what the circlip clips on to, then realised you have to compress it and push it inside the inner hole of the outdrive.

There is a groove inside in which it seats into.

[MikePimlott]

Some of the part numbers in the manual for plastic bits during the build are incorrect. Square floor piece, servo link ball ends.

The plastic inserts for the caster stumped me a bit not a great description of the options and how to fit in the manual.

2xM3x10 button head screws for the front axles in bag B was missing.

Other than that so far so good.

[phil c]

I also had the screws missing for the front stub axles , also one of the gold washers for the inner ball Stud is a diffrent thickness to the other three ?

[sly]

lots of zip lock bags but one stands out from the rest, the shock caps, i wonder if that was the holdup:woot:

@ Mike, The inserts are just like the old schumacher inserts but better as these have the option sizes on them so even i can understand.

on the rear brace, is the two center holes which you use for to hole the rear fixings of the gear box (MID) down with, Are they suppose to be through holes and not taped?

Very chuncky strong feel to it.

Cream will soon have a new Part to make ;)

[TonyM]

Cream will soon have a new Part to make ;)

Si - I think I know the part you mean. :eh?:

[Adam Skelding]

Some of the part numbers in the manual for plastic bits during the build are incorrect. Square floor piece, servo link ball ends.

The plastic inserts for the caster stumped me a bit not a great description of the options and how to fit in the manual.

2xM3x10 button head screws for the front axles in bag B was missing.

Other than that so far so good.

There are spare M3 x 10 Button head screws in bag F. It seems they have migrated to this bag..

[MikePimlott]

There are spare M3 x 10 Button head screws in bag F. It seems they have migrated to this bag..

I had some spare from the 410 i built last week :thumbsup: but its good that people now know they are in the box :thumbsup:

[Adam Skelding]

We've spotted a couple of issues with the manual.

Step 29.
The MM rear bumper is missing from the instrcution manual it can be found on the 310121 Sprue @ tag #3.

The 320128-6 bushes don’t fit, there was a part number error in the manual.
These should be the 310257-4 bushes that are on the gearbox mould, there are 3 of them on there.

The pistons shown in the manual are switched for the kit set-up, the fronts should be 1.2mm and the rear should be 1.3mm.

These are being fixed for the on-line version.

If you do have any issues with missing parts in the kit, please contact support@team-durango.com

Please make sure you include the following items in your e-mail:

1. The Issue.
2. Your kit serial number (the little yellow sticker on the box)
3. Where you bought it from.

[captainlip]

Superb support yet again!

[MHeadling]

Glad to see your feeling the Durango love Mr Lip!:thumbsup::lol:

[mark christopher]

Superb support yet again!
Adam will probably rebuild your ball diff when you do it wrong :thumbsup:

[mark christopher]

carnt wait much longer..........

[eyeayen]

carnt wait much longer..........

Carnt spel can't... :lol:

[robelmes]

We've spotted a couple of issues with the manual.

Step 29.
The MM rear bumper is missing from the instrcution manual it can be found on the 310121 Sprue @ tag #3.



The sprue is 320121 not 310121

Finished building the kit last night, great build and had no issues with missing parts:thumbsup:

[stegger]

Carnt spel can't... :lol:

Can't spell. "spel" :woot:

Can't wait for mine, not sure if i'll get it from the first batch though !

[t8rtot]

The sprue is 320121 not 310121

Finished building the kit last night, great build and had no issues with missing parts:thumbsup:


PICTTURES!!!!

[mark christopher]

Carnt spel can't... :lol:
ok im dumb, you must be dumber, hardly clever to pick up on a spelling error when you can not spell your self......:o

[jonathan may]

cant wait for mine as well :thumbsup:

[mikeyscott]

Got mine

Start tonight
SP ESC
Orion motor
Savox ESC
Spektrum RX
RW spur
RW pinion
Nosram LIPO
Harry PT

Won't be run for three weeks as shell goes to Jon Miller tomorrow.

[eyeayen]

ok im dumb, you must be dumber, hardly clever to pick up on a spelling error when you can not spell your self......:o

You missed the irony there :lol: it was on purpose.

[gainsy]

Got mine :D:D:D
Cheers Telstar Racing :thumbsup:

[Aran]

got mine too, creating a blog type thing to show build pictures and some tips :)

http://www.tumblr.com/tumblelog/arwracing

[gainsy]

No issue's as yet :) in fact i have to say this is the best put together car i have ever built, things dont just fit, they fit perfectly :D
Top job Durango :thumbsup:

[mattybucks]

Hi Stu,

Sorry I couldn't spend much time with you tonight, it was mad with 45 people turning up including Lee, Truman, and Cockers. I hope the build goes well.

Matt

[gainsy]

No worries Matt
Good to see you doing so well there, much bigger than i thought & good to see it being supported by the big guns as well :D
So who took the win tonight?

[old-man]

Could anyone post the lengths of the turnbuckles?

[stegger]

M3 x 36mm and M3 x 43mm but not sure on how many of each ! Got the info off the 210 parts page.

[TonyM]

BEWARE!!!

I just reamed out two holes on the wing using the dimple marks. They are too far apart (at least 5mm). So don't use the dimples as a guide.

Perhaps the wing mounts are wider on an RM build and the dimples are for that configuration?

[IceMike]

If you use a low profile servo, the slot designed for the cable doesnt go to where it needs to, so you may ahve to get a dremel out to sort it.

[008-Racer]

Does anyone know the internal ratio of the Mid motor 4 gear?

And can anyone rec. gearing for a SP 7.5 around Kiddy and Coventry?

The DEX210 was by far one of the nicest builds I have ever done :thumbsup:

[Legacy555]

Does anyone know the internal ratio of the Mid motor 4 gear?

And can anyone rec. gearing for a SP 7.5 around Kiddy and Coventry?

The DEX210 was by far one of the nicest builds I have ever done :thumbsup:

The internal ratio is not effected by the amount of idlers.
I don't know the internal ration - but if you divide the amount of teeth on the diff gear by the amount on the layshaft you will get the ratio.

[Adam Skelding]

The internal ratio is not effected by the amount of idlers.
I don't know the internal ration - but if you divide the amount of teeth on the diff gear by the amount on the layshaft you will get the ratio.

Correct..
Gear Ratio is:

2.6:1

[Big G]

Does anyone know the internal ratio of the Mid motor 4 gear?

And can anyone rec. gearing for a SP 7.5 around Kiddy and Coventry?

The DEX210 was by far one of the nicest builds I have ever done :thumbsup:

Probably go with something like a 24 round kiddy or 26 at cov.

Personally I've never run a 2wd round Cov before so a little bit of guess work there.

[Chris Doughty]

We've spotted a couple of issues with the manual.

Step 29.
The MM rear bumper is missing from the instrcution manual it can be found on the 310121 Sprue @ tag #3.

The 320128-6 bushes don’t fit, there was a part number error in the manual.
These should be the 310257-4 bushes that are on the gearbox mould, there are 3 of them on there.

The pistons shown in the manual are switched for the kit set-up, the fronts should be 1.2mm and the rear should be 1.3mm.

These are being fixed for the on-line version.

If you do have any issues with missing parts in the kit, please contact support@team-durango.com

Please make sure you include the following items in your e-mail:

1. The Issue.
2. Your kit serial number (the little yellow sticker on the box)
3. Where you bought it from.

The updated manual is online right now

http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manuals/TD102006/DEX210-manual.pdf

[Big G]

lol loving the PT in the manual :D

[mikeyscott]

What axle position are uk people opting for. Trailing or inline?

[IceMike]

The setup from the team at worksop is online, thats a good place to start atm

[Hulk]

What axle position are uk people opting for. Trailing or inline?

Depends on the track. We used trailing outdoors so far, but me and Nathan tried inline at Worksop.

Inline makes the steering more responsive giving a very direct feel. This proved to be useful at Worksop as the track was so tight and technical, with quick change of direction needed.

Fully inline was a little too much so we settled with number 2 block, which is in the middle of the two.

Worth having a play around to see which you prefer.

[mikeyscott]

Hi

Thanks. First outing likely to be open, flowing torch and then MK gp.

Mike

[Bungleaio]

Is there anywhere saying what inserts in the hubs gives which value? I'm confused as to which one I should be using to get what level of toe or caster.

[4_cell_racer]

Is there anywhere saying what inserts in the hubs gives which value? I'm confused as to which one I should be using to get what level of toe or caster.

Same here :-/ also the fronts :blush:
feel a right newb but have not use inserts before!

[Bungleaio]

I think I've figured the rears out.

Standard toe in is 3 degrees. The inserts have the values printed on them so if you view them from above the value they say is the value they will add or remove.

But the front caster block ones I'm still confused.

[Belsten]

Its printed on the inserts or is that not what you mean ?

[Bungleaio]

The caster inserts have +10-10 or +5-5 so I guess there are 4 options for caster angles.

For example if I wanted 30 degrees caster which of them do I need?

Its all new to me this, none of this nonsense with 4wd :D

[Adam Skelding]

The caster inserts have +10-10 or +5-5 so I guess there are 4 options for caster angles.

For example if I wanted 30 degrees caster which of them do I need?

Its all new to me this, none of this nonsense with 4wd :D
The car has 25 degrees kick up.
So with the +5 arrow pointing forward you add another 5 degrees of castor.
+10 = 35 degrees which we have found very useful on high bite Astro.

The converse for if you put the -5 arrow pointing forward.

We'll be doing a tech tip section on the website soon.

[Bungleaio]

Nice one cheers Adam.

[jonathan may]

any tips on building and filling the shocks. im am new to durango shocks

[stegger]

any tips on building and filling the shocks. im am new to durango shocks

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/2011/04/12/dnx408-shock-build-guide/ :)

[jonathan may]

Brilliant Thanks :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[4_cell_racer]

The car has 25 degrees kick up.
So with the +5 arrow pointing forward you add another 5 degrees of castor.
+10 = 35 degrees which we have found very useful on high bite Astro.

The converse for if you put the -5 arrow pointing forward.

We'll be doing a tech tip section on the website soon.

Excellent :thumbsup: look forward to the tech tip section :D

[4_cell_racer]

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/2011/04/12/dnx408-shock-build-guide/ :)

Steve...... There are no shock bladders in my kit so do you fill the cap too??

[1armed1]

Steve...... There are no shock bladders in my kit so do you fill the cap too??

Building with bleeder caps instead of bladders....

Fill oil and work air out,
Leave shaft extended and install and tighten cap with bleed screw out.
Slowly push shock shaft in until there is about 2mm shaft left before threads start.
Install bleeder screw.
Work the shaft a couple times.
Remove bleeder screw and slowly push shock shaft back in.
Re install bleeder screw.

[MikePimlott]

The car has 25 degrees kick up.
So with the +5 arrow pointing forward you add another 5 degrees of castor.
+10 = 35 degrees which we have found very useful on high bite Astro.

The converse for if you put the -5 arrow pointing forward.

We'll be doing a tech tip section on the website soon.

Adam, should there be some 0deg front caster inserts then to run 25deg ?

[4_cell_racer]

Building with bleeder caps instead of bladders....

Fill oil and work air out,
Leave shaft extended and install and tighten cap with bleed screw out.
Slowly push shock shaft in until there is about 2mm shaft left before threads start.
Install bleeder screw.
Work the shaft a couple times.
Remove bleeder screw and slowly push shock shaft back in.
Re install bleeder screw.

Thanks for the reply :thumbsup: but do you fill the caps too or just the shock body?

[Adam Skelding]

Here's the Shock Build guide we posted for the 'Slim' Bore shocks.
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/2010/07/29/shock-build-guide/

The principle is exactly the same....

As your shocks will be new. Run the car a few times and then unscrew the bleed screw and perform the bleed processs again... This can help in stopping your car feeling really hard at the extent of up travel.

If your car feels wierd during a meeting when it seemed fine before, this can sometimes be the problem.. A slight build up of air occurs over time and it's a good idea to do the bleed process at the start of a meeting if you know the set-up is good, then it will stay consistent through the meeting.

[Chris Doughty]

on the long travel rear shocks its not needed.

but on the front shocks, its worth just adding a couple of drops of oil into the cap.

when bleeding the shocks, if you don't get oil coming out of the bleed hole, there isn't enough oil in the shocks, open the shock again and add more oil

[4_cell_racer]

Cheers Adam & Chris...... That's helped loads :thumbsup:

[Big G]

I found that with my fronts even though I poured in enough oil to make the dome on the top before screwing the cap on.

[mattybucks]

All kits have been posted!!! Can't wait to see these cars running. Due to demand I sold my one, so I will have to wait for the next batch which is due to arrive towards the end of the month. So if you want to order a 210 let me know!

Thanks

Matt

[sly]

Adam, should there be some 0deg front caster inserts then to run 25deg ?
I don't remember seeing any and its no a option and there pagehttp:// http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dex210/

[Big G]

Personal experience:

Step 2. screwing the arms into the W piece with all those tiny little washer was a fiddley job to say the least. Got there eventually though :)

Step 5, screwing the front of the pods over the steering mounting piece was extremely tight and the holes weren't lined up quite perfectly. I loosened the pods and the W piece so there was a bit of give and everything is now screwed down tight. Also I have to praise the way the servo can be quickly removed! I suffered a lot with stripping horns on the DEX410 and removing the servo can be quite frustrating at the best of times. DEX210 servo removal A star!

Step 6, screwing the ball stud into the tower straight was nearly impossible and always seemed to be at a slight angle. I tapped the threads with a grub screw on a 1.5mm driver which allowed me to get in near enough straight and then popped the ball stud in without a problem.

Step 8 and 10. Adam clarified earlier in this post in regards to which inserts gave which camber settings. Extra info in the manual wouldn't go a miss. 0:47 in the video on the TD website doesn't say 25 degrees is an option to answer Mike's question.

Step 15/16 not so much a problem, but the image is half the size as it covers RM and MM configs so seeing where everything goes requires a closer look.

Should threadloc be included in the kit? I had some from my DEX410 kit either way.

This isn't a bitchy wining post about how TD should have addressed all these things, etc, etc like we've seen before. It's purely my personal experience from building the car last night. I think it's an amazingly throughout out and the level of attention to details is fantastic. I just wish I didn't have to wait a week to run it lol!

[TonyM]

Just finished mine and it weighs in at 1637 gr.

One thing I notice is that when the front arm is lifted the steering arm 320124-12 is bending slightly. Compared to the rest of the car it does seem a little flimsy. I guess an alu option will be around the corner.:) Otherwise I'm really happy with the car, the shell gives plenty of room and everything fits in so easilly.

I've pre ordered two battery retainer replacement blocks from Noel at Cream Extreme. They are made from stainless steel and each weigh 24g (£10 each and £18 pair). An easy way to tune in a little weight if needed.

[reg]

how many are running the std ball diff v the gear diff

[Big G]

considering the gear diff isn't commercially available yet.. most/all of us :D

[reg]

considering the gear diff isn't commercially available yet.. most/all of us :D

:woot::thumbsup:

who will be then:p

[Big G]

I've been living in a geared diff world for almost a year now and love it. If the ball diff gives me issues I'll replace it straight away.

I built it with lazy balls and the action is super smooth. my last experience of ceramic balls didn't go too well in my B44 a few years back and the diffs went very notchy and undid themselves. once I put standard balls back in no problem.

I'll see how it goes for now.

[TonyM]

I've also built mine with RC Lazy balls. However, I see this as a temporary measure until the geared diff is available, then I'll swap.

[mattybucks]

Buds Balls have been very popular as well. An excellent choice in my opinion. Hopefully the spares and geared diff will arrive soon!!

[jonathan may]

Can't wait to get home and build mine or maybe not

[reg]

the team were running at worksop,i know one ran with gear,swopped to ball,then put the gear back in

[mikeyscott]

I've also built mine with RC Lazy balls. However, I see this as a temporary measure until the geared diff is available, then I'll swap.

My thoughts at this time are ball indoors and gear diff outdoors for winters.

Either way the gear diff oils I have purchase thus far are 750 and 1k

[Marc0]

No problem to mount it so far, I am still doing it. Thanks for the explanation for the caster settings, it could have been great to have information in the manual.

I still don't know if I will go rear motor on mid motor. I guess rear motor will be more versatile than the mid motor. What do you think guyz ?

[jonathan may]

depends on the type of surface you are racing on dirt,astro,carpet.

[Marc0]

Most of the tracks are dirt in France, but my training track is an astro one... that's why I had my TLR 22 in mid motor configuration, which was a great car on the grip. On dirt, it was very very difficult to be fast in mid motor...

[Belsten]

1st outing for the car indoors tonight box stock apart from the pistons and man it was awesome, very very impressed :thumbsup:

[mikeyscott]

First issue of the build. Ships for the shock/piston don't fit. 709009

[steel]

First issue of the build. Ships for the shock/piston don't fit. 709009

They are very tight but if you use the screw and piston it should take it down

[Aran]

They are very tight, they do fit on though, just need a little bit of encouragement

[mikeyscott]

Two of them went on with screw other two I had to lightly sand v top of shaft. No all on

[mikeyscott]

They are very tight, they do fit on though, just need a little bit of encouragement

Think that's my prob as I am no brute with kit builds

[graveltrap]

Step 6, screwing the ball stud into the tower straight was nearly impossible and always seemed to be at a slight angle. I tapped the threads with a grub screw on a 1.5mm driver which allowed me to get in near enough straight and then popped the ball stud in without a problem.


This was the worst part of the build for me because I did not have the right tool for the job, a ball ended driver, it result in a broken ball stud, my fault but be warned!

I also sat and pondered the inserts for a while, still not sure what rear toe I've got!! :lol:

Anyone figured out a good place for the massive SP capacitor, I am looking at fixing it to the rear gearbox brace somehow?

[Andyp]

Think that's my prob as I am no brute with kit builds

it been the same in all my TD kits , i just put the washer over an old bearing or nut, place the shock shaft over the whole in the washer and give it a tap with something heavy i have to hand , usually a pair of pliers !

Dont be shy, you cant really break anything !

[4_cell_racer]

I also had problem with the small washers, so used a needle files to open them up a bit, still a tight fit but at least they fit now :)

[andys]

Built mine, no real problems... But

The steering looks like it could be problematic. On the bench, the steering can 'jam' at either end of maximum travel, this seems to be due to the fact that as the steering moves, just before full lock, the hub linkage angle causes the linkage to 'flip' and kind of lock into position. I've tried limiting travel to get close to the 'flip' point, but obviously now I'm not getting full lock.

If you try your car in he bench, put full steering to one side, the try to move the 'inside' wheel (as you would be turning the car on the ground) youll see there's loads of play around his maximum angle, and you can feel the point as the angle over reaches and causes the steering to jam.

Would be interested to know if anyone else had noted / fixed this, or if its not an issue, just conscious in a bump, the steering could be forced to this maximum lock position and could jam up !!!

[4_cell_racer]

I've noticed the same with the steering...... But I've yet to fit the rest of my electrics :-/ so cannot say if it still the same once everything is powered up

[mikeyscott]

Slowly coming together, finding turnbuckles really hard work even with a bit of grease. Then they pop off when you try and adjust them on the car..!

[raymondkerr]

Slowly coming together, finding turnbuckles really hard work even with a bit of grease. Then they pop off when you try and adjust them on the car..!

I found a similar problem with the turnbuckles, when I try to adjust them on the car, they pop off. I also noticed with the rear ones, the manual says 10mm but when I put the wheels on, there was far to much camber, so I adjust the rods a little longer at 12mm each side and it seems to look better.

I struggled getting my staggers onto the front rims, so I think it will be best to cut the rims down to the slim width.

Running the car tomorrow for the first time on high grip carpet with lots of jumps, see how it goes.

[mikeyscott]

I found a similar problem with the turnbuckles, when I try to adjust them on the car, they pop off. I also noticed with the rear ones, the manual says 10mm but when I put the wheels on, there was far to much camber, so I adjust the rods a little longer at 12mm each side and it seems to look better.

I struggled getting my staggers onto the front rims, so I think it will be best to cut the rims down to the slim width.

Running the car tomorrow for the first time on high grip carpet with lots of jumps, see how it goes.

Great, I thought the new ball cups were suppose to be better :confused:

Looking for an R10 PRo ESC now too.

[TonyM]

Built mine, no real problems... But

The steering looks like it could be problematic. On the bench, the steering can 'jam' at either end of maximum travel, this seems to be due to the fact that as the steering moves, just before full lock, the hub linkage angle causes the linkage to 'flip' and kind of lock into position. I've tried limiting travel to get close to the 'flip' point, but obviously now I'm not getting full lock.

If you try your car in he bench, put full steering to one side, the try to move the 'inside' wheel (as you would be turning the car on the ground) youll see there's loads of play around his maximum angle, and you can feel the point as the angle over reaches and causes the steering to jam.

Would be interested to know if anyone else had noted / fixed this, or if its not an issue, just conscious in a bump, the steering could be forced to this maximum lock position and could jam up !!!

Woops, just tried it fully powered up and the steering easily locks over with the servo unable to return it to neutral. I've had to turn my EPA right down to avoid this happening. I reckon the steering is now only operational for about 60% of full lock. I'm taking full lock to be when the steering arm just touches the suspension arm. This can't be right!!!

[Robocop]

So wont the speedpassion fit is that what youre saying

[mikeyscott]

So wont the speedpassion fit is that what youre saying

Didn't say that, just prefer the fit of an R10..

[tyreman]

Great, I thought the new ball cups were suppose to be better :confused:

Looking for an R10 PRo ESC now too.

Mine are fine use the black grease on the thread and they fit great

[mikeyscott]

Same grease I have also tried.. :(

[Northy]

When you build the turnbuckles use plenty of black grease on the threads and then build them in your hands so they are quite a bit shorter than they need to be, then back them off to the right length again before fitting them to the car. They should be a lot easier to adjust on the car then.

The original ones on the DEX410 could push on and shorten in a big crash, so these ones are tight on the threads for a reason.

G

[mikeyscott]

Going to take the TBs apart and start again

I've used lots of black grease and no diff

At present they won't last a slight bump

[JamesRumble]

Going to take the TBs apart and start again

I've used lots of black grease and no diff

At present they won't last a slight bump
Hi Mikey
When I built my 410 and I suspect the same will be true of the 210, I ran a tap through one of the ball joints, this allows you to adjust without the ball popping off, but is still stiff enough not to undo itself. Got the tap of ebay for a couple of quid.

[andys]

Woops, just tried it fully powered up and the steering easily locks over with the servo unable to return it to neutral. I've had to turn my EPA right down to avoid this happening. I reckon the steering is now only operational for about 60% of full lock. I'm taking full lock to be when the steering arm just touches the suspension arm. This can't be right!!!


Glad it's not just me ! I've Tripple checked everything.

Surprised no one else has noticed this....

[WHITTLER555]

No problem with mine Andy? I am using a Savox servo with the kit 25T horn, i have had to turn down the EPA but only because the servo was buzzing its tits off!

I have put the steering link in the rear ackerman setting, maybe that is what is different?

[TonyM]

I have put the steering link in the rear ackerman setting, maybe that is what is different?

I've got mine in the middle position which certainly would increase the angle of the 'flip' [Andy technical term Wikipedia:lol:]

I'm also using a Savox 1258.

[hottuna]

Hmm, i've build 1000'th of diffs, but with this one i'm puzzled. The nut with the plastic that goes into the outdrive doesn't go deep enough, there's no room for the dog bone. I've tighten the screw until the spring is compressed.

[mikeyscott]

Starting to get the turnbuckles sorted :) lots and lots of grease and so forth

[andys]

I've got mine in the middle position which certainly would increase the angle of the 'flip' [Andy technical term Wikipedia:lol:]

I'm also using a Savox 1258.


Mmmm.

I've made mine better be having the servo angled away from the problem side, means I have different length turnbuckles at each side to compensate / align the front wheels, but it stops the servo horn locking up as it was over rotating to gain maximum lock on one side.

I still get some 'flip' :) on maximum lock with the turnbuckles though, but it isn't sticking now...

[Marc0]

Does anybody have a setup sheet for rear motor setup on dirt ?

Do you have any advice about RM3 or RM4 configuration ?

[losichris]

Guys, im having trouble with the diff.
The spring seems too big, as the cap is halfway up on the outdrive.
The and if i got any tighter on the diff its going to strip!
Any ideas?


http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=706&pictureid=4453

[hottuna]

Guys, im having trouble with the diff.
The spring seems too big, as the cap is halfway up on the outdrive.
The and if i got any tighter on the diff its going to strip!
Any ideas?


I just posted about the issue, i have the same problem. I opened the second kit and build that diff, that worked better. I have no idea what's wrong with the first diff :confused: I have to take it out and have a look

[4_cell_racer]

Guys, im having trouble with the diff.
The spring seems too big, as the cap is halfway up on the outdrive.
The and if i got any tighter on the diff its going to strip!
Any ideas?


http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=706&pictureid=4453

Mine looks very similar and thought that the drive shaft won't have enough room to move....... But there is vertically no movement in the driveshaft in the diff half :)

[mikeyscott]

I had this. Diff was slipper so just tightened it down further and no probs

[Matt Butcher]

Mine is the same also, not liking the ball diff at all tbh! Goin to run it tomorrow and see what happens!

[losichris]

I had this. Diff was slipper so just tightened it down further and no probs

Im down as tight as possible, its going to strip the diff if i go any more.
Does the bold need to be all the way down on the outdrive?

[MikePimlott]

The car is designed to have minimal drive shaft plunge, so it should be ok.

Mine looks like that too but its set right.

The diff gear is not slipping when turned and both outdrives are held solid.

[TonyM]

I was also worried that the diff nut was not at the bottom of the shaft when fully tight. But, this is probably just the design. Anyway, I ran it today on the track and it worked fine. After 20 min run I tried to tighten the diiff further and it was still rock solid - did the usual and backed off 1/8th of a turn.

[Michiel H.]

Burs or tight spots maybe?

Site picture show the nut all the way in.

[losichris]

if the outdrive is blocked then the wheel wont be straight when shafts are level!
i think theres something actually wrong as to why its going all the way in

[neil_p]

I got my kit on Wednesday and built it for a shakedown run at SHRCCC indoor on Thursday night.

Had the same issues as other people on this thread, but nothing to major.

I moved my ball joints on the steering drag link to the rear and set the EPA lower to stop the steering going over centre and jamming. Not ideal I know but it worked, and I was definatly not lacking in steering.

Regarding the diff, I set it the same as other diffs, fully tightened and backed off 1/8", this was fine and didn't think it an issue. To note, the ears on the nylon nut did not go all the way down to the end of the diff out drive, I tightened it up by feel, and when the suspensions goes up the drive shaft has the absolute minimal movement so it will not be in contact with the nut.

My issue has been with the rear shocks. With the shock fully compressed the piston protrudes past the damper body by 2/3 its hight. This doesnt seem right, but not noticeable on the bench or the track. Has any body else noticed this?

To add, Im running SMC lipo's that are 24mm tall, and the battery strap didnt secure this, in fact it was quite a long way off with refrence to the strap locater at the rear. With the lipo blocks fitted it also had 5mm movement fore and aft. I have addressed this with foam but it would have been good to have the option in the kit.

When I built my B4 there was an explination to the technical steps, damper filling and bleeding, starting set up on the diff and slipper and a base set up (albeit for US dirt tracks), while not essential to experienced racers it would have been good to have it in the manual, and yes I know there is an online resource:)

The car ran extremly well though, and changed some things and it should be good to race next week. On the whole a very good kit and should be an excellent car.

[Big G]

Ive now turned my servo 180 degrees so the wire comes out on the right (if you're looking at the front). You have to swap the arms on the steering rack over, but since I can't see them being sided I don't think there will be an issue.

Speedo is now wired up with very short wires. I recon I could fit 2 rs pro's down 1 side lol

[losichris]

Im really hoping the car goes better than it puts together!! :thumbdown:
Having a nightmare!!

[jonathan may]

others are saying its the best kit they have put together.

[mikeyscott]

others are saying its the best kit they have put together.

I've built better and I've built worse.

Heard great things about it at the local clubs.

Mines a few weeks away from running. So it'll sit on the shell until I decide what electrics I want to use etc.

[mikeyscott]

Ive now turned my servo 180 degrees so the wire comes out on the right (if you're looking at the front). You have to swap the arms on the steering rack over, but since I can't see them being sided I don't think there will be an issue.

Speedo is now wired up with very short wires. I recon I could fit 2 rs pro's down 1 side lol

Pics?

[hottuna]

Im really hoping the car goes better than it puts together!! :thumbdown:
Having a nightmare!!

Then you must have gotten a really bad kit :( Mine was a dream to build, apart from some small problems, but hey, it's the first batch!
It was some screws missing in the bags, but i found them all in the "extra bag". I had problem with the diff like some others here. The nut didn't go deep enough in the outdrive. But i had a second kit and build a second diff, that one turned out great :)
Experience from all this: Great quality as usual from Durango! Some missing screws can always happen, i don't cry about it :)

[bender]

I have one on pre-order, it worries me when people say its fine but only one out of two diffs they built actually went together properly :confused:

[TonyM]

My issue has been with the rear shocks. With the shock fully compressed the piston protrudes past the damper body by 2/3 its hight. This doesnt seem right, but not noticeable on the bench or the track. Has any body else noticed this?

Interesting that the kit shafts are 55mm and the optional replacement TiNi shafts are 52mm.

ADDITIONAL NOTE: I had a problem with one of my rear shocks today. The piston was actually sticking in the cap. Luckily I'd ordered a pair of the shorter TiNi shafts and after fitting these, problem solved.

[TonyM]

[QUOTE=andys;567316]Glad it's not just me ! I've Tripple checked everything.

Comparing others today at the track it would seem that the 'flip' situation seems to only exist when using a deep servo like a Savox 1258. For others with shorter servo's the possibility of this becoming a problem was insignificant, or non-existent.
So, it would be useful if Durango could modify the block the servo fits on to, thereby allowing the servo to sit further back. The difference between a binding deeper servo and shorter ones was around 3mm.

Even with the minor problems I had today at Southport (inevitable with any new car), I am very happy with the balance of the 210. We went from wet to dry conditions and all I had to change were the tyres and the consistency followed through.

Oh! I also fitted two of Cream Extreme's battery braces which added 48g to the overall weight and they helped to settle the car down somewhat.

[008-Racer]

If I would like to run some old pin rims do I need to run the following parts?

#TD712003 - Wheel Distance Bushing
#TD714002 - Wheel Cone

Thanks in advance

[mikeyscott]

Comparing others today at the track it would seem that the 'flip' situation seems to only exist when using a deep servo like a Savox 1258. For others with shorter servo's the possibility of this becoming a problem was insignificant, or non-existent.
So, it would be useful if Durango could modify the block the servo fits on to allowing the servo to be fitted further back. The difference between a binding deeper servo and shorter ones was around 3mm.

What servos are people using as I have the option for:
Savox 1257
Savox 1258
Savox 1251
Orion Low profile

I wouldn't use the 1251 as I haven't seen them last on cars without servo savers. Currently I have fitted a 1257, but not set it up yet as no other electrics have been put into the car.

Intended on selling a few ESCs to get an Orion R10

[gainsy]

I wouldn't use the 1251 as I haven't seen them last on cars without servo savers.

Oh dear that's what's in mine :(

[mikeyscott]

Oh dear that's what's in mine :(

Just to clarify. I haven't seen them in this car yet, I'm refering to other cars (Cougar SV). I used my 1257 in the SV with no issues.

So it may be ok, but this car hasn't got a servo saver...

[Chris-S]

Using 1258's in both 2 and 4wd. Used an Orion low profile in the cougar, never had any problems

[mikeyscott]

Using 1258's in both 2 and 4wd. Used an Orion low profile in the cougar, never had any problems

Orion is in my 511 at present and 1258 will be heading to the other 4WD. My 2nd 1257 is in my XXCR

[sly]

What TonyM is referring to is the distance that the servo horn sits from the fixing face of the servo lugs is greater on his Savox servo.
His Servo locks out on full lock, but my no name Hong kong servo doesn't, the only difference at the time at looking was the Savox is 2mm taller lugs to spline than mine.

[Northy]

I have noted that Savox servos are "longer" for want of a better description in the past.

So would a simple fix be to just fit a different servo horn? The 210 one has a bit of a "crank" in it that makes the ball sit further forward.

[MikePimlott]

I have noted that Savox servos are "longer" for want of a better description in the past.

So would a simple fix be to just fit a different servo horn? The 210 one has a bit of a "crank" in it that makes the ball sit further forward.

Good idea, ive fitted a dynamite alloy one in mine. Just because i always use alloy servo horns, as i find plastic ones to be a weak point of any car!

They are only £3 too.

[andys]

1st run issues...

See my post here re the diff failing - happened to 4 people on their first outing at our club day...

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83173&page=2

[TonyM]

I have noted that Savox servos are "longer" for want of a better description in the past.

So would a simple fix be to just fit a different servo horn? The 210 one has a bit of a "crank" in it that makes the ball sit further forward.

I fitted an alloy servo horn and bent it back towards the servo. But you can only go back so far without fowling the servo. Yes it's an interim fix, but a real Durango fix would be good.

[neil_p]

TonyM has got a good point regarding the servo mounts. AE include spacers to suit all servos on the B4.1 kit, it would be good if Durango followed suit.

I have just swapped my low profile savox (sorry forgot the model number) for a savox 1258 for more strength because of the lack of servo saver.

With it fitted, the steering link turnbuckle is totally straight/90 degrees onto the bell crank. If you move the wheels left and right smoothly there does not appear to be a problem, but do it quickly then I have found the link pops off the ball joint. Don't know about while in racing, but could be a big issue.

[Marc0]

I have 2 cars, so 2 diffs. I built both, and I have the same issue, spring seems too long...

I have cut 1,5mm of the spring to solve the issue... I hop that it will not have too much consequences...

When will the gear diff be available ? I run a gear diff in the TLR22 for months, without any issue (whereas it is gear diff of SC10 RTR...)

[Marc0]

Shock shaft are 55mm, optional shock shaft are 52mm and stock shock shaft from the small bores are 52mm...

Are the 55mm ok ? Or should I go with the 52mm ones ?

[neil_p]

IMO marco go with the 52 mm shafts, that way you know that they will match the fronts, i.e the piston will not protrude, past the damper body. Like TonyM said, his stuck in the cap.

[Marc0]

Thanks :)

[Big G]

Pics?

Sorry Mikey. Been moving house over the weekend so a bit busy lol. Still managed to spray the wing with cans and sticker it up. The rest of the shell will be done by someone with more skill haha

here's my servo flipped. I don't seem to have any problem with the arm locking out or going past the safe point... I even tried forcing it to do this and it's not sticking :confused:

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad212/Dizzie20vt/RC/IMG_0434.jpg

I'm not truly confident on the strength of the steering rack either. It's ideal to get made up in carbon or alloy though. Rear tower also looks easy enough to get made up in carbon fibre too. Front would have to swap to the horizontal ball links like the 410 if you had a CF front tower, but it would give you a much quicker adjustment on the ball stud height :)

[hottuna]

Guys, im having trouble with the diff.
The spring seems too big, as the cap is halfway up on the outdrive.
The and if i got any tighter on the diff its going to strip!
Any ideas?
http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=706&pictureid=4453

I've found the problem with my first diff. The moulded plastic around the nut should have a hole to let the screw through.
When i tightened the screw until it got tight i thought i had compressed the spring, but the hole was way to small. That's why i thought it was all tightened down, but it wasn't.
Forced the screw through, and problem's gone :)

Iv'e read some posts about failing diffs, you all should check if you really have totally compressed the spring, this part can fool you.

[Chris Doughty]

For the people that notice the servo arm going beyond the 'safe' point and 'locking' over...

this is only a problem on the bench when you are turning the wheels to drive the servo. when the car is in use, the opposite happens, the servo arm is the thing that is directly controlled. the servo arm doesn't get forced past the safe point because the arm is directly controlled, even if you do have your EPA's set way off, it will still pull back no problem.

and even so, this is only a problem on the bench with some types of servo that have lots of momentum on the gears.

[TonyM]

How do you know it's only a problem on the bench?

What if the front wheels get a hard knock pushing them past the safe zone into a locked position? Also, when the links go past neutral the servo has no control over the flapping about of the wheels.

[Chris Doughty]

Tony, I'm talking about the way the servo arm and steering rack interact here.

I'm not talking about the way the steering rack controls the steering knucles

[TonyM]

OK thanks Chris. I think it is the latter where the problem lies.

[losichris]

got mine together, apart from the diff, everything went ok. To be honest though im very worried how its going to run first time out!!
has anyone ran stock piston? what oils did you use? ive put losi oil in 37.5 ft and 30w rear and it feels very stiff

[Chris Doughty]

Yes, I can see what you mean.

none of the cars that I have built have a problem with the front knuckles locking over, I'm keen to know more details about exactly how people have built their front caster blocks and spacers of the people that are seeing this issue.

Thanks
Chris

[Chris Doughty]

got mine together, apart from the diff, everything went ok. To be honest though im very worried how its going to run first time out!!
has anyone ran stock piston? what oils did you use? ive put losi oil in 37.5 ft and 30w rear and it feels very stiff

there is a miss-print in the manual for the front and rear pistons, it is corrected in the online version at the TD website.

using box stock components, start with 1.2mm pistons front and 1.3mm pistons rear. 450cst shock oil in the front and 400cst shock oil in the rear.

you can go up and down on shock oils.

this may not be a 'perfect' setup buts its pretty good using complete kit items before going into drilling pistons and advanced setup stuff.

fully dialled setups can be found on the TD website

[Northy]

there is a miss-print in the manual for the front and rear pistons, it is corrected in the online version at the TD website.

using box stock components, start with 1.2mm pistons front and 1.3mm pistons rear. 450cst shock oil in the front and 400cst shock oil in the rear.

you can go up and down on shock oils.

this may not be a 'perfect' setup buts its pretty good using complete kit items before going into drilling pistons and advanced setup stuff.

fully dialled setups can be found on the TD website

Just to back up CD here, Richard Coates ran with the kit pistons as suggested above, AE35wt front, AE 30wt rear at York on Saturday night and the car was fine. We were all playing with set up but the pistons/oil were not touched on any of the three 210's we had running.

G

[TonyM]

Yes, I can see what you mean.

none of the cars that I have built have a problem with the front knuckles locking over, I'm keen to know more details about exactly how people have built their front caster blocks and spacers of the people that are seeing this issue.

Thanks
Chris

I did a comparison between mine and Simon Larkin's and we had exactly the same set up, middle Ackerman, longest wheel base, fully trailing etc. The difference in the potential for locking between the two was quite marked and all we could see was that my Savox was just that bit forward of his servo. Once I'd put on an Alu horn and bent it backwards a little it seemed to help relieve the problem, but still not as good as Simon's.

[Big G]

I went with 45wt front 35wt rear (Fastrax CML oil) and the front feels really nice, but the rear does seem a little over damped...

I'll play with it on the night :)

[Chris Doughty]

I did a comparison between mine and Simon Larkin's and we had exactly the same set up, middle Ackerman, longest wheel base, fully training etc. The difference in the potential for locking between the two was quite marked and all we could see was that my Savox was just that bit forward of his servo. Once I'd put on an Alu horn and bent it backwards a little it seemed to help relieve the problem, but still not as good as Simon's.

See this is the thing that puzzles me and I am trying to understand.

the servo, servo arm, servo link length etc shouldn't have ANY effect on the 'locking' of the steering knuckles.

the only thing that should affect this is the steering rack and the steering knuckles.

the problem should be evident without any servo fitted, so it puzzles me that changing the servo arm has an effect on this...

[losichris]

there is a miss-print in the manual for the front and rear pistons, it is corrected in the online version at the TD website.

using box stock components, start with 1.2mm pistons front and 1.3mm pistons rear. 450cst shock oil in the front and 400cst shock oil in the rear.

you can go up and down on shock oils.

this may not be a 'perfect' setup buts its pretty good using complete kit items before going into drilling pistons and advanced setup stuff.

fully dialled setups can be found on the TD website
Thanks mate,so basically rear and front are other way round in the manual?

[TonyM]

See this is the thing that puzzles me and I am trying to understand.

the servo, servo arm, servo link length etc shouldn't have ANY effect on the 'locking' of the steering knuckles.

the only thing that should affect this is the steering rack and the steering knuckles.

the problem should be evident without any servo fitted, so it puzzles me that changing the servo arm has an effect on this...

I find it puzzling as well and yet it was the only thing we could see that was different between the two cars.

[Northy]

I find it puzzling as well and yet it was the only thing we could see that was different between the two cars.

I'm sure CD is looking into it ;)

[Big G]

if you're running more toe out the steering rack will be 'allowed' to move further before the knuckle hits the C bracket restricting any further steering...

as chris said this can't happen from the servo moving only in the result of a crash would it be forced beyond the limit

[sly]

See this is the thing that puzzles me and I am trying to understand.

the servo, servo arm, servo link length etc shouldn't have ANY effect on the 'locking' of the steering knuckles.

the only thing that should affect this is the steering rack and the steering knuckles.

the problem should be evident without any servo fitted, so it puzzles me that changing the servo arm has an effect on this...

Hi Chris, mine and Tony's car where the same front set up at the time of looking at the locking problem/puzzle, the difference was the height of the servo, this pushed the cranked horn forward, this then made the angle of the small link that goes from the servo horn the the ackerman plate not straight enough to operate correctly.

[TDMAK]

Wheel offset in the front? looking to use some old rims? any idea if the front rims are rims?

[OneKiwi]

ok so I haven't eaten and am a little tired, things aren't going real well.

Trying to read the setup sheets, seems a bit of a jumble, anyway whats the standard toe in rear, one says 4* and I only seem to have 0,5* to 2* toe in thingys.

same with standard caster block whats the stock 20*? then +/- 5* or 10*

[Northy]

Rear inboard toe in is 3 degrees, so you add or subtract from that with the rear hub inserts.

Kick up on the chassis is 25 degrees, so you add or subtract from that with the castor block inserts.

G

[TonyM]

ok so I haven't eaten and am a little tired, things aren't going real well.

Trying to read the setup sheets, seems a bit of a jumble, anyway whats the standard toe in rear, one says 4* and I only seem to have 0,5* to 2* toe in thingys.

same with standard caster block whats the stock 20*? then +/- 5* or 10*


JUST BEAT ME TO IT!!!

[Adam Skelding]

Inboard toe-in is set at 3 Degrees as printed on the Blocks.
You then add or remove toe-in using the outer blocks.
Looking down on the car with the front of the car facing away from you.
When you put the insert in the side of the car Left or Right you get the toe in value that you can see printed on the insert. (+ increases toe-in, - reduces toe-in).

So 3 Degrees inboard, with the L+0.5 in the Left hub and the R+.5 in the Right Hub will give you 3.5 degrees toe-in.

Castor is similar.
Kick-up is 25 degrees.
When you put the Castor Block in you get the value next to the arrow pointing forwards (i.e. from back to the front of the car). The value must be the right way up for you to get the correct castor...

So with the +5 arrow pointing to the front of the car on both sides the castor will be 25+5 =30 Degrees.

[gainsy]

Made this today, can't see this 1 snapping :D

[phil c]

gainsy , it looks good mate , how much to make me one ?

[gainsy]

gainsy , it looks good mate , how much to make me one ?
Cheers Phil :)
I will have a look & see if i have any more old shock towers i can convert, the 1 i used was a 4mm version i used to have on my b44
I tried it in alloy first but i prefer the carbon 1, also my drilling was none to good on the alloy 1
Will have a look when i get the kids in bed :D

[phil c]

let me know mate

[zambo]

Hi all,
i'm building my car... regarding the ball diff, I've noticed that the two small washers are different, i mean, one has a more "rounded" profile and has a diameter of 7.9mm instead of the other that is 8.0mm.
In the manual it says that the thrust is caged, but it isn't...
What is the correct sequence (1 or 2) for mounting the two different washers?
And then, when assembled the "thrust cage" in the correct sequence, on wich side will be the screw head?
Sorry, english is not my language, I attach an image that i hope will explain better than words the sequences...
Thanks!

http://www.codem.it/diff_210.jpg

[Northy]

Is one smaller diameter than the other? If so it should be next to the screw head. I must admit I didn't check mine, but I've had no issues.

G

[Robocop]

Got mine today finally but few problems,no shims in the kit that i can find pt no 330363-1 or 2 nothing at all looked at all opened bags,the pins that go through the hexes the pins fall out,

[OneKiwi]

Rear inboard toe in is 3 degrees, so you add or subtract from that with the rear hub inserts.

Kick up on the chassis is 25 degrees, so you add or subtract from that with the castor block inserts.

G

Thanks for that..

Damn that servo arm looks pretty weak as others have said, im going to make one from CF tomorrow

Broken a ball cup screwing it in.. just went the whole side fell off other than that not a bad build.

Why are there a lot of extra parts that look like to the older style shocks?

Anyone running all electrics on one side and weight on the other? I don't really want to have to run a wire under the lipo area

Anyone running losi shocks? I am atm as haven't any others.

What pistons are people running?

And finally can I use rear losi 22 wheels if I change the hex? what about fronts?

[TonyM]

Quote from Robocop . . . .Got mine today finally but few problems,no shims in the kit that i can find pt no 330363-1 or 2 nothing at all looked at all opened bags,the pins that go through the hexes the pins fall out, End Quote.
---------------------
Just put a bit of threadlock on the pins to stop them falling out too easily.

[benjy]

really wanted a 210, now starting to get put off, i know theres teething problems with any car but some of these seem fairly big issues to me

[Northy]

Got mine today finally but few problems,no shims in the kit that i can find pt no 330363-1 or 2 nothing at all looked at all opened bags,the pins that go through the hexes the pins fall out,

Most of the shims in the kit are plastic washers on the parts trees.

Thanks for that..

Damn that servo arm looks pretty weak as others have said, im going to make one from CF tomorrow

Broken a ball cup screwing it in.. just went the whole side fell off other than that not a bad build.

Why are there a lot of extra parts that look like to the older style shocks?

Anyone running all electrics on one side and weight on the other? I don't really want to have to run a wire under the lipo area

Anyone running losi shocks? I am atm as haven't any others.

What pistons are people running?

And finally can I use rear losi 22 wheels if I change the hex? what about fronts?

The extra parts are just on the parts trees.

I weighed mine tonight and it is almost perfectly ballanced left to right with the speed on the right and receiver and pt on the left. Many cars run the wire under the lipo, that's what the milled bit is for, don't worry it'll be fine. Put some tape on top of it to stop it moving if you are worried.

Kit shocks.

My indoor setup from York went up on the TD site today.

I think Losi wheels would fit with the Losi hex, no idea about fronts.

[Robocop]

Nope friend of mine is building his too he has the sprue

[Aran]

Anyone know when the gear diff is being released and some more body shells?

I always find ball diffs a pain :(

[TonyM]

really wanted a 210, now starting to get put off, i know theres teething problems with any car but some of these seem fairly big issues to me

Don't be put off. These posts are by finicky sods like me who want perfection. The reality is it's a superbly balanced car to drive and like all kits we will soon get used to its little quirks and nuances and how to side-step them.

[jkclifford]

The "weak " steering rack make give you a little flex and save a servo.

Beefing it up may give you a more expensive break.

[Andyp]

The "weak " steering rack make give you a little flex and save a servo.

Beefing it up may give you a more expensive break.


+1 it may seem 'weak' but it seems pretty flexible so may not break as easy as we think , as said it will flex or break saving the servo maybe ?.

[neil_p]

really wanted a 210, now starting to get put off, i know theres teething problems with any car but some of these seem fairly big issues to me


As TonyM said, don't be put off, this is an awesome kit. On only my shakedown run I was doing exactly the same lap times as my B4, which I have had for a year now and know it well. Very promising indeed:thumbsup:

Regarding the rear shock shafts, with the spring retainer fitted the piston top meets the top of the damper body perfectly. So this is not an issue. Thanks to Matty Lathem and Adam for the heads up on that, and to CD for the screws question I posted earlier.

[andys]

As said, don't be put off, generally the car looks like it will be very, very good.

At least you know what to watch out for now with the diff build, the steering I was worried about was fine on the track on my only outing with the car.

Yes the steering link looks weak, but who knows, it might be fine.

The car is great value, I was very impressed with my first run, went well considering I'd set up the front end all wrong !

Roll on a setup / tips section on the site to explain all the tuning options.

[kbrunsden]

i am finding it hard to belive you think the steering rack is week have you run it yet i have raced mine twice last week and had some big crashes and had nothing break as yet .

[Sheepdog]

Currently building mine, love it, for those who feel a little put off, there is definitely more positives than negatives!! very nice kit (diff next :cry:) lol! seriously tho, looks good, one question for the powers that be, how long till we see some front wheels??? yellow and white please!!?? :woot:

[zambo]

Hi all,
i'm building my car... regarding the ball diff, I've noticed that the two small washers are different, i mean, one has a more "rounded" profile and has a diameter of 7.9mm instead of the other that is 8.0mm.
In the manual it says that the thrust is caged, but it isn't...
What is the correct sequence (1 or 2) for mounting the two different washers?
And then, when assembled the "thrust cage" in the correct sequence, on wich side will be the screw head?
Sorry, english is not my language, I attach an image that i hope will explain better than words the sequences...
Thanks!

http://www.codem.it/diff_210.jpg

Nobody has checked the two small washers?
I think, if it doesn't matter wich one goes on wich side, why are they different?!?
I'm thinking that only my kit has different washers.....

[Chris-S]

For those having a small issue with the turnbuckle threads being tight. Using the black grease from the kit, apply a good coating to the threads, then thread the turnbuckles into the ball cups all the way, then half way out, then back in again to the correct depth.

[Patte]

Nobody has checked the two small washers?
I think, if it doesn't matter wich one goes on wich side, why are they different?!?
I'm thinking that only my kit has different washers.....

The small thrust washers is different on the x-ray T3 to.
I have tried to put them both ways and it did not feel or performed any different.

[Origineelreclamebord]

For those having a small issue with the turnbuckle threads being tight. Using the black grease from the kit, apply a good coating to the threads, then thread the turnbuckles into the ball cups all the way, then half way out, then back in again to the correct depth.

I'm not sure how you tighten them, but I found the Durango turnbuckles very easy to put on (the HD ones included). Just put a screwdriver or hex driver through the hole that you usually use, put the turnbuckle in a set of pliers and start turning. The leverage should make all the difference and make it super easy and super quick! :thumbsup:

[Robocop]

This must be the first kit that i cant get to love,how would you change the gearbox quickly between rounds?
Also you cant use the droop screw on the spur side unless you do it from underneath not on top like touring cars do.
Pins in the hexes yes i know people have put thread lock to keep them inplace,but this is 2011 never seen a car with pins on the outside or if they did side through the pin is held by a oring in a groove on the hex.

I know people will say prat but think about it a little

[Chris-S]

I'm not sure how you tighten them, but I found the Durango turnbuckles very easy to put on (the HD ones included). Just put a screwdriver or hex driver through the hole that you usually use, put the turnbuckle in a set of pliers and start turning. The leverage should make all the difference and make it super easy and super quick! :thumbsup:

Its more when adjusting them that if they are tight they can pop off the ball joints. Had the same with a cougar kit.

[Rich D]

Not wishing to rain on your parade dude but even the race proven 511 has pins that are easy to lose if you build as per the instructions or transport minus wheels fitted. I use a dab of tamiya anti wear grease. It's sticky enough to hold them in place yet they are still easily removed. HTH

[TonyM]

This must be the first kit that i cant get to love,how would you change the gearbox quickly between rounds?
Also you cant use the droop screw on the spur side unless you do it from underneath not on top like touring cars do.
Pins in the hexes yes i know people have put thread lock to keep them inplace,but this is 2011 never seen a car with pins on the outside or if they did side through the pin is held by a oring in a groove on the hex.

I know people will say prat but think about it a little
Associated B44 & B4, Losi 22 - all have loose pins which you need to dab a bit of thread-lock on, so it's quite common.

[Robocop]

Funny i just got rid of my 22 my mate has a b4&b44 and the pins dont fall out

[jkclifford]

Being loose, is probably better than having too drift the sods out like the front pins on the 410

[TonyM]

Funny i just got rid of my 22 my mate has a b4&b44 and the pins dont fall out

I should say on the B44/4 you can use the cheap split pins, but they easily bend and are a sod to get out and most people I know convert to the team FS pins which are smooth, but conversely easy to get out, just a dab of thread lock and they are superb.

The pins on the 22 are somewhat longer, but equally smooth. Perhaps it was my bad luck in getting ones that were loose.

[Adam Skelding]

Gearbox can be changed with a power driver in about 10 minutes, with 'hand' tools it took me 15.

Access to the droop screw. (Does it really matter which side you can access it from?) :confused:

Pins on the outside of the hexes... It's all about backwards compatibilty. I'm sure if we'd have moved the pin we would have had plenty of people complain that they need new wheels.

This must be the first kit that i cant get to love,how would you change the gearbox quickly between rounds?
Also you cant use the droop screw on the spur side unless you do it from underneath not on top like touring cars do.
Pins in the hexes yes i know people have put thread lock to keep them inplace,but this is 2011 never seen a car with pins on the outside or if they did side through the pin is held by a oring in a groove on the hex.

I know people will say prat but think about it a little

[fmo]

I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank

[Legacy555]

I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank

There are two spacers that fit into the alloy block.
Have a look at the online manual. The part number in the printed manual is wrong. It should all tighten together nicely.

[fmo]

I did check the online manual, the spacers are in. But when tightening the screws they first lock into the aluminium brace, the nuts might need an additional half turn to be tight...

[OneKiwi]

What front wheels fit? SV or B4?
I have the 22 rear on with a B4 spacer and a washer and 22 roll pin

Any others?

[Cream]

I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank

Is there a thread in any of the plastic parts?
If not, Screw the bolts into the aluminium brace tilll tight, slide the bolts through all the plastice parts, tighten nut on top to hold everything together.
If there is a thread in any of the plastic parts then there is an issue. As there is no chance the thread will match up in both the aluminium brace and any thread in the plastic sections.

[ryanlownie]

Finished building mine, hats off to all the designers and developers involved. Some great ideas on the car and it went together as good as the best.

It's only something minor but when looking at the servo mounts I liked the idea that they appear to be very easy to undo and allow you to remove a servo in 2 screws (+ the horn screw). However I've noticed that the screw is marginally blocked by the front brace, might be something worth taking a file to before assembly?

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/6121/210oh.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/210oh.jpg/)

[Tweaky]

I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank

Yes i noticed that, I assembled it all nice and tight with the spacers in, from underneath, then i ended up cutting the top off the anti roll bar plate, where the Nyloc nuts are housed, and then tighten the Nylocs down with a spanner.

[fmo]

The top plastic part has recesses retaining the nuts. As you said, these will never line up with the aluminium brace. Probably just cutting off the plastic retainers will solve the issue.
Frank


Is there a thread in any of the plastic parts?
If not, Screw the bolts into the aluminium brace tilll tight, slide the bolts through all the plastice parts, tighten nut on top to hold everything together.
If there is a thread in any of the plastic parts then there is an issue. As there is no chance the thread will match up in both the aluminium brace and any thread in the plastic sections.

[Cream]

The top plastic part has recesses retaining the nuts. As you said, these will never line up with the aluminium brace. Probably just cutting off the plastic retainers will solve the issue.
Frank

Yeah going off your image you only have the three possible options. clear the threads out of the aluminium brace , remove the retaining section of the top block or 3rd if the caphead is small enought to fit in the retaining hex put the bolt in from the top and use the thread in the aluminium brace to hold it all together.

[fmo]

Thank you for your reply.
The third solution was also my first thought, but the rear bumper is fixed through the screws underneath the aluminium brace. I'll check if I would need the threads in the aluminium brace for a rear motor configuration, if not they are virtually already gone...


Yeah going off your image you only have the three possible options. clear the threads out of the aluminium brace , remove the retaining section of the top block or 3rd if the caphead is small enought to fit in the retaining hex put the bolt in from the top and use the thread in the aluminium brace to hold it all together.

[fmo]

Actually the threads in the rear aluminium brace are needed for rear motor.

So, a fourth solution comes into my mind - I could remove the lower thread of the long screws which would cause the screw tighten to the aluminium brace once completely screwed in. If I would remove this threads the screw could still turn freely in the aluminium brace and the entire rear block would be compressed by the top nuts.

[Chris Doughty]

threads are indeed used when in rear motor config.

what I would suggest is rotate the loc-nut by one flat in the captured rollbar holder and try again, and keep doing that.

rotating that will alter the position that the thread in the nut starts to engage.

once you have found the optimum position glue the loc-nut into the rollbar holder

[Cream]

Actually the threads in the rear aluminium brace are needed for rear motor.

So, a fourth solution comes into my mind - I could remove the lower thread of the long screws which would cause the screw tighten to the aluminium brace once completely screwed in. If I would remove this threads the screw could still turn freely in the aluminium brace and the entire rear block would be compressed by the top nuts.


Oww captivated bolts, Now you are getting fancy :thumbsup:

[Origineelreclamebord]

BEWARE!!!

I just reamed out two holes on the wing using the dimple marks. They are too far apart (at least 5mm). So don't use the dimples as a guide.

Perhaps the wing mounts are wider on an RM build and the dimples are for that configuration?

I really wish I read that before I reamed those holes :cry: By peculiar coincidence the holes have exactly the right distance to be fitted on my TRF201 though :lol:

Anyhow, I hope the wings will be available soon, and seperately from the body?

[TonyM]

As I intend to keep mine mid-motor I drilled the alu holes out. Now tight as a rat up a drainpipe.

[mattybucks]

I really wish I read that before I reamed those holes :cry: By peculiar coincidence the holes have exactly the right distance to be fitted on my TRF201 though :lol:

Anyhow, I hope the wings will be available soon, and seperately from the body?

Get an LMR electra wing on it!!:thumbsup:

[Robocop]

Happy now as everyone said durango will sort out any problems with the car and they are like to say sorry if anyone got a little peaved with me but my first durango and i had a few problems with it but like i say all done.
Like to say thanks to mb models (i did not buy the 210 off them)but i have now purchased a 410 too and they are going to ensure durango do sort my 210.
Thanks happy man now

[jonathan may]

good to hear good thing about TD customer services 210 is my first durango too.

[Sheepdog]

All built, just waiting for my speedo to turn up, wire up and test everything then some track time, a superb crafted RC car, my first TD and a pleasure to build, big thanks to you all for the hints and tips, made things so much easier, glad you liking it a bit more Robocop and great shout on a top thread!! :woot::thumbsup::woot:

[captainlip]

Get an LMR electra wing on it!!:thumbsup:

These look smart do you stock them?

I'm tired of bending wings and gutted can't get a Tresrey replacement

[sunbeam]

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz357/rbush/DSCN5198.jpg

2 seconds on the lathe, but can be done with a small file or Dremel. Now it all works as it should and nothing wasted or unusable.

[OneKiwi]

Ran mine today for the first time, no real probs with the diff.
Real happy with the car so far but didn't have time to convert the 22 to MM to run a comparison, will do that next time.

Great build well done TD

[fmo]

that is exactly how it should be done. best solution and well done...

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz357/rbush/DSCN5198.jpg

2 seconds on the lathe, but can be done with a small file or Dremel. Now it all works as it should and nothing wasted or unusable.

[sunbeam]

"that is exactly how it should be done. best solution and well done..."

It was your idea fmo :thumbsup:
I just followed your advice, so thank you :)

[Dazzler]

But don't forget to fit the rear bumper...:thumbsup:

[Cream]

that is exactly how it should be done. best solution and well done...


Deffo the best solution, But not everyone has access to a lathe :)

[sunbeam]

The bumper and antiroll bar fitting was fitted after. I just took the pic quickly on an uncluttered rear end so it was clear what had been done.

I did say under the pic that the same job can also be done using a file or Dremel.

[BostonNelson]

Thanks för all the build tips guys. My build went perfect thanks to this thread. Forgot to fit the rear bumper though :blush:

[hottuna]

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz357/rbush/DSCN5198.jpg
2 seconds on the lathe, but can be done with a small file or Dremel. Now it all works as it should and nothing wasted or unusable.
Best tip so far! I just put the screws in my mill and did the same, great tip :thumbsup:

[bryan durango]

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz357/rbush/DSCN5198.jpg

2 seconds on the lathe, but can be done with a small file or Dremel. Now it all works as it should and nothing wasted or unusable.
just finished my build and this was the only issue i had. good idea, ill be removing the lower threads from the screws tomorrow :thumbsup:

[kabilay]

just finished my build and this was the only issue i had. good idea, ill be removing the lower threads from the screws tomorrow :thumbsup:

Finished mine and the above was not an issue you just screw the long ones almost to the end and then, use the plastic part with the nuts to finish the assemply with just a few more turns

[kabilay]

Last night i finished mine. Not any issues with the assemply. Neither with the diff or any other part. Just followed the instructions.
Perfect fit of the parts underlying the high quality of the kit. And i suppose since the production kit was assembled and tested by the team, if there was any faults in assemply, it should be noted. Thus if any of us had issues i believe that is due to our rushness for quich assembly and overlapping steps,just to finish quicker and enjoy this kit.:thumbsup:

[OneKiwi]

THose that are having problems with the ball cups falling off are you swapping them out for something else?

[kabilay]

Falling off? It is hard to remove them in order to make adjustments.I use the screw driver for leverage in order to remove them. I don't know how are falling off?

[OneKiwi]

ok not falling off but poping off, there has been a fair few comments here and there is a lot of problems with that in the US

[Rebelrc]

To do that to the screws and you have no lathe
Simply put the screw in the chuck of a drill driver leave the area to be removed proud and spin it up against a file / abrasive paper etc till smooth
Easy and accessible
HTH

[Big G]

I've run the HD ball cups on my DEX410 for 8-10 meetings now indoors and outdoors and never had a ball cup pop off.

Circumstances will be different between racers so it could be anything that caused the pop...

[OneKiwi]

I have heard that the 410 ball cups are better than the 210 ones.
People (rctech) haven't had issues with the older 410/R ones.
Maybe they are a little softer

[kabilay]

I have heard that the 410 ball cups are better than the 210 ones.
People (rctech) haven't had issues with the older 410/R ones.
Maybe they are a little softer


HD are stronger and i suppose that in order of an HD to pop off we are talking for major crashes.I prefer that than destroying my servo.With a destroyed servo you cannot continue the race. +$$$$. With a popped ballcup you can continue immediatelly.
TD proceeded with update (HD) because the standrd 410/R cups were popping of.

[xchange]

Guys,

When the spare parts should be available ?

[jamiekerr14]

Think I heard 210 spares are in today in some shops, but don't count me on that.

[Big G]

HD are stronger and i suppose that in order of an HD to pop off we are talking for major crashes.I prefer that than destroying my servo.With a destroyed servo you cannot continue the race. +$$$$. With a popped ballcup you can continue immediatelly.
TD proceeded with update (HD) because the standrd 410/R cups were popping of.

But your wheel will be flapping around or you'll only have 1 wheel steering :confused:

[Matt Howard]

HD are stronger and i suppose that in order of an HD to pop off we are talking for major crashes.I prefer that than destroying my servo.With a destroyed servo you cannot continue the race. +$$$$. With a popped ballcup you can continue immediatelly.
TD proceeded with update (HD) because the standrd 410/R cups were popping of.
Last weekend I popped my rear hub ballcup off three times in practice before I swapped just that one out with a losi cup/end. It wasn't on major crashes either and the rear hub was the only one to pop off. After the swap to the losi combo I didn't have any more problems. IMO the Durango ballcups, even the HD ones, leave a lot to be desired:thumbdown:

[mattr]

my clumsy hamfisted driving with the old/original ball cups would lead to one or two popping off everytime i used the car (410), jumps, crashes, bounces off the track dividers, all would cause popping.

The newer HD cups (as supplied with the 210 and the V3) i've only popped two off, both times after sliding into a kerb/wall at speed. (and it was the same ball cup, i suspect i may have damaged it, if it pops again this week i'll replace it!)

[losichris]

Ran my 210 today, very happy with it straight outta the box.
One issue, with no servo saver, everytime i touched a bit of track at speed/ or landed awkwardly on the front end, the steering link just popped off, was really quite anoying....
Anyone got a solution?

[TonyM]

Ran my 210 today, very happy with it straight outta the box.
One issue, with no servo saver, everytime i touched a bit of track at speed/ or landed awkwardly on the front end, the steering link just popped off, was really quite anoying....
Anyone got a solution?

Yes, popped off three of mine at Formby today - two front and one rear. I'm considering fitting the the Lunsford TiNi shafts, AE TiNi balls and RPM ballcups, which I've had on my 410 for over a year without a single pop.

I have to say though, when it works, the car felt ultra safe - (my second Losi 22 will be for sale soon).

[losichris]

Yes, popped off three of mine at Formby today - two front and one rear. I'm considering fitting the the Lunsford TiNi shafts, AE TiNi balls and RPM ballcups, which I've had on my 410 for over a year without a single pop.

I have to say though, when it works, the car felt ultra safe - (my second Losi 22 will be for sale soon).

Dont think ball cups are going to do much, they feel quite tight, just that theres no servo movement so as soon as you hit something side on, the cup pops off.
Guess its better than a servo gear breaking. But its quite annoying!

[Reo]

does it have a lot of play in gearbox? build mine in rm4 gear, and the feeling is that the top shaft metal gear is not close enough to the first idler? or is it that 4 gear will be so?

[mikeyscott]

Well fairly happy with mine today in the finals at TORCH for the first round of the winter series.

Struggled with on power traction on wet astro. As I also run the club, lacked a bit of time.

What i would have prob done is change to anti squat to start etc. Dropped a spring rate which helped an so forth.

I changed from ballistic grens to pinks and it was much better, but need to get it honed in the wet on ballistic greens.

[TonyM]

Dont think ball cups are going to do much, they feel quite tight, just that theres no servo movement so as soon as you hit something side on, the cup pops off.
Guess its better than a servo gear breaking. But its quite annoying!

I see what you mean. However, I still think the TD cups are easier to pop off. I can do it with moderate finger pressure, whereas with the rpm/lunsford/AE setup I definitely need pliers.

[jkclifford]

when new boil them pop them on hot when plastic is soft then they are no being streched on. This really helps all cups.

[OneKiwi]

when new boil them pop them on hot when plastic is soft then they are no being streched on. This really helps all cups.

Nice tip I may just try that.

Anyway love the dex, losi is up for sale soon. I find it calmer than the 22 in my hands anyway, so now just need to fins a bit more off power steering out of corners and Ill be laughing.

Anyone find that the shock collars are very loose? I presume there will be a alu upgrade of is the way to go tresey? I do like them as they are easy to change but seem to move by them selves.

Tips?

[muratti]

Anyone find that the shock collars are very loose? I presume there will be a alu upgrade of is the way to go tresey? I do like them as they are easy to change but seem to move by them selves.

Tips?


Had noticed the same on my V3 i also felt that they moved themselves. There are Alumonium upgrades from TD which i will probably buy, there is also a rubber ring which you have to buy seperately i think. A bit strange but i think it´s the only solution to that. Or anyone has a cheaper solution? :confused:

[OneKiwi]

where does that go?