hi sorry to be a little dumb but what do you mean by cutting the castor blocks flat?

do you mean cut off around 3mm?:eh?:

and is this done to reduce camber angle movement/travel?

or am i paddling up the wrong stream:eh?:

thanks Phil:thumbsup:

Where the camber link connects to the hub, it steps up under the ball joint. This is being chopped off so that that area is flat across the top of the hub.
Apparently I was told at the weekend that it tames the front end a bit.:thumbsup:

wat difference does itgive the car if you run the diff in low or high possition? do they have to match ?

Question for matt or mossy, when adjusting the rear toe in do the spacers have to add up to the same amount at the front and the rear. I think in the kit it has 2.5mm on the rear and .5mm at the front but also a 2mm washer the other side of the screw. If i wanted to add another .5mm to the rear to make it 3mm/ .5mm, do i need to add the same at the front but on the other side of the screw so both front and rear are equal? Hope this makes sense!!!!!:confused::confused::confused:

No you don't, just make sure they're equal left to right:)

just make sure the screw doesnt go too far through the inside of the alloy housing and catch on the diff.

Nice one! cheers:thumbsup:

I have a question regarding the layshaft above the slipper.. Did anyone notice, that if you tighten the nyloc nut up too tight it causes the transmission to become very tight?

Thanks

P

We already had this the last couple of days, check if you have the rear belt pulley the right way in.

Cruise.

Have a look on this topic

wheel base?
 

might sound dumb but how do you alter the whel base legnth?:confused:

Its dead easy, im hoping you have figured it out by now. But the rear inboard hinge pin has two clips per side, you can move them around to change from short, medium or long.

Those are very small adjustments, are they really noticeable?

Yep, can feel the difference. I use long wheelbase

What do use to do this.. Hacksaw Blade ?

How have you guys ensured that theya re exactly the same on both blocks ?

Kit should be here this afternoon so ready to get started..

Thanks for all the tips. :thumbsup:

A couple of things i did to the car, that i haven't seen on this thread was to put a extra nut (not nyloc, they foul the cover) on the slipper assembly, to help prevent it loosening, and i also changed the button head screws (2mm hex)for cap head (2.5mm hex)on the motor mount, i found the originals could easily round off, but with cap heads you can get much better leverage,and less chance of the mount moving in a big impact, and theres less chance off knackering the screw, the cap head will sit slightly proud of the chassis, but once the undertray is on, you'd never know.
hope this is useful to anyone new to the car.

Jay

do you still use this setup? I was thinking about getting the Oneway. how do you like it?:thumbsup:

Brass weights
 

Sorry, posted in the wrong thread:blush:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5465339_n.jpg

big bore shocks
 

Hi, trying to re-build my rear big bore shocks last night for the first time and must be doing something wrong, however i put them together the shaft pushes itself all the way out, spent almost 3 hours last night trying to get them right, ive tried putting the cap on with the shaft fully in, fully out or in the middle but as soon as i push the shaft all the way in it pushes itself fully out!! Ive rebuilt loads of losi & associated shocks in the past with no problems but these have got me beat & very angry!!
What am i doing wrong??

CAtSX Battery Mod?
 

Hi everyboby,

my current batteries are 1.5mm to tall for the Cat SX. Instead of buying new lipos I was wondering if I could 2mm shims under all the bulkheads, hereby lowering the bottom chassis by 2mm.

Has anyone tried it?
What do you Schumacher guys think about it? Will the undertray still fit?
Have no experience with the Cat SX, but though t it was a good idea...

nic