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Old 22-02-2011
coleman758 coleman758 is offline
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Default Newbie Racing - B4

Hey guys, I've just got a B4.
It's going brushless i believe Orca is a good brand so I think
An 8.5t motor is on the cards. So it should go some!

I have just got a new set of wheels and some yellow mini-pins.

Is there anything else I should be looking out for?
Would anything benefit from being alloy or is that just to heavy?

It needs to be competitive il be racing at Bury Metro if that's any help?
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Old 22-02-2011
coleman758 coleman758 is offline
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Also... What size of pinion would you recommend to use with an 8.5?
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Old 22-02-2011
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There are fundamental problems with alloy and B4's in my opinion.
Wishbones, bulkheads, shock towers, etc are all designed to break as they're cheap and easy to fix. I'd rather do several wishbones than 1 chassis...
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Old 22-02-2011
TonyM TonyM is offline
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I agree with Col's reply. When I first started I bought a few aluminium parts, towers, arms etc for my B4, but I soon realised they are useless in a racing environment - easily bend and you can never bend them back to the same shape again. Stick with plastic parts and avoid any of the dearer carbon/plastic parts.

For me the real worthwhile buy is a K-Factory front shock tower. They don't make them anymore, so if you can't get one second hand Creame Extreme on here makes the lower metal mounts and you can get the carbon fibre tower to fit from DMS.

Being a bit of a duff driver myself I would use a 25 pinion with an 8.5T at Bury - not to sharp on the acceleration as the track tends to be low/medium grip. I'm sure some of the Bury lads will have a better idea.
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Old 22-02-2011
coleman758 coleman758 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Col View Post
There are fundamental problems with alloy and B4's in my opinion.
Wishbones, bulkheads, shock towers, etc are all designed to break as they're cheap and easy to fix. I'd rather do several wishbones than 1 chassis...
Actually i was thinking of parts like the steering mech', and the hubs?
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Old 23-02-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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go fusion exceed rather than orca
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Old 23-02-2011
coleman758 coleman758 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainlip View Post
go fusion exceed rather than orca
What sort of difference will it give me? I beli e there aftercare and warranty is really good at orca? I've heard that from 2 people? Also I forgot to ask, is ther any rules on motors or battery sizes etc??
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Old 23-02-2011
TonyM TonyM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coleman758 View Post
What sort of difference will it give me? I beli e there aftercare and warranty is really good at orca? I've heard that from 2 people? Also I forgot to ask, is ther any rules on motors or battery sizes etc??
The BRCA publishes each year a formal homologation list of motors and lipo's which can be used at their events (regionals and nationals). Lists are here http://www.brca.org/?q=content/homol...1-updates/1402

For club racing it really depends on your club rules and whether they stick rigidly to the BRCA list. Most if not all clubs do insist on hard case lipo's and for this season the BRCA requirement to charge lipo's in a charge bag. Someone from Bury needs to advise you on their local rules.

At some stage you will probably want to race a regional and so my strong advice would be to make sure the lipo's you buy are on the homologation lists (separate list for stick and saddle configurations). Last year many of us bought new Trakpower lipo's ready for the new season to find they were not included on the list - so to avoid that happening to you, choose from the list.
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Old 23-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coleman758 View Post
Actually i was thinking of parts like the steering mech', and the hubs?
Personally I wouldn't bother. I ran my B4 for a couple of years and never broke any hubs or steering bits, even with the servo saver glued up.
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