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#1
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Ok here we go!
![]() ![]() The Box very pretty ![]() Inside the box, even better ![]() Part bags ![]() ![]() The chassis and the first part of the build ![]() The only real problem so far was this alloy motor mount, one of the holes wasn't tapped all the way into the hole, which resulted in this. A second hole was also short but I managed to still seat the screw with some effort. Tomorrow I'll shorten a screw and then that will get a screw in the dodgy hole ![]() ![]() So for now it's only held in with two screws, I don't have a 3mm tap so I might just buy the option mount. ![]() Moving right along and forgetting the thread issue for now, the diffs were assembled, Sorry we missed a picture of them half going together but they are pretty standard a little tight spot on one of them but not too bad and it should smoothen out. Please note the front diff in this shot is back to front ![]() ![]() ![]() Here's the rear diff, I could have used just two shims here, but 3 made it snug so I used 3, So I only used 1 in the front diff (only had one left) It seems ok with just one but perhaps could have fitted 2 in there. The rear definitely needed at least two (the instructions suggest one but you get 4 in the kit). ![]() One of the diffs complete ![]() The completed slipper, very nice bit of hardware, the spur had a bit of a wobble in it like usual so I've tightened the slipper right up to see it it ill get convinced to be a straighter in the morning ![]() Since the slipper is so lovely you can see it twice ![]() ![]() Here we have the slipper installed, still looking lovely ![]() And one overhead shot ![]() |
#2
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![]() ![]() Lets take some time to sit back and see where we are up to now ![]() Steering installed ![]() Front upper brace and front shock tower mount installed It was very late at night when we started the build so that's where we called it quits, we will finish the car and the thread tomorrow ![]() Ok back now ![]() ![]() Front shock tower installed ![]() Rear tower installed ![]() Overview of the car so far ![]() Looking down the front of the car ![]() Spur cover installed ![]() One again the entire car ![]() Side profile ![]() Showing the crush tube spacer thing that goes between the bearings and the 10 degree hubs (the kit comes with both 10 and 13 degree hubs), I installed the first one I grabbed randomly for starters, which were the 10s ![]() Front arm and hub installed ![]() Underneath the front end ![]() Close up of the front hex adapter and roll pin that presses into the axel ![]() Front end wide shot ![]() Close up of the roll pin before being knocked into the axle ![]() Loosening a couple of screws to easily get the rear arms on |
#3
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![]() ![]() Overview so far ![]() And from the back ![]() Rear hub closeup showing how the pins are captured with a small screw, as you can see all plastics on the car have a very high carbon content and are very stiff ![]() Almost completed car, minus shocks which I'll do tomorrow ![]() The only optional part I have on it apart from using up my left over grade 12.9 hex head screws where possible, this rear sway bar (because I saw woody uses one) |
#4
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The cars complete, I forgot to take pictures building the shocks but you all know how they go and that they are the most awesome part of the Team C cars so that's ok.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I'm going to get the 5.5Turn speed passion motor and a 120amp XErun ESC, wont be finished for a while but it should be pretty good ![]() ![]() |
#5
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Aha, my kit was short a shim or 2 for the diffs as well. Did the slipper go together easy, did you have to flip the spur over?
Also were you able to tighten the 2 screws on the upper plate without binding the steering? Very nice pics! |
#6
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Thanks for the build thread, looks good and interesting !
__________________
Tamiya F103 - Hobbywing 13.5 - Hobbywing 1S Tamiya TRF201 - PRT HS 10.5 - Tekin RS Pro http://rctouch.over-blog.com/ |
#7
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#8
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I would be careful with the front diff according to your set up. We found in testing if you followed the directions and put a shim on each side of the diff, there was a much better chance of no issues. Yes you can put two on one side and one on the other for a tighter mesh, but the kits only come with 4 shims. Our part number is TR4057 for additional shims (not sure if everyone is using the same part numbers). The drive train is so free out of the box. I would recommend the extra shims, especially if you are going to run a hotter motor.
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Viper R/C Solutions Marketing Director website: www.viper-rc.com Facebook: Viper R/C Solutions Twitter: ViperRCTeam sponsored by: Viper R/C Solutions, J Concepts, ARC USA, X Factory, Xpert R/C US Last edited by nikos2002; 04-08-2010 at 03:21 AM. Reason: Wrong part # |
#9
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#10
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Thanks positronic- never try and read spreadsheets on your iPhone in a car!!
The shims I was describing go on the diffs themselves and place the gear mesh tight by moving the diff gear (39T) closer to the ring diff gear (16T). I can see were adding shims behind the ring gear will move it, I have never tried that. I know adding shims on diff to adjust mesh has been done ever since the original Predator shaft drives.
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Viper R/C Solutions Marketing Director website: www.viper-rc.com Facebook: Viper R/C Solutions Twitter: ViperRCTeam sponsored by: Viper R/C Solutions, J Concepts, ARC USA, X Factory, Xpert R/C US |
#11
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#12
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I also added the 3 shims like you did for the rear. Not just to adjust the gear mesh but there was too much play. I'll be trying the car on the track tonight. will see how it goes.
__________________
Jon Gagnon TLR 22 |
#13
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The cars finished now apart from the shocks, I have pictures of everything but no time to update the thread until tomorrow night. I checked the mesh of the crown and pinions in the diffs and they look fine to me, I setup the mesh in the diff in my actual full size car so I think these will be ok :0. The front one could have used 2 shims to be snug, but it's going to be fine for now with one. I can see where nikos is comming from with moving the crown gear across but I think with this car it's not the right way to go about it (or at least defiantly not needed)
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#14
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I'm not able to do up those screws all the way without it binding, I'd be happier if I could so I'm going to see if I can fix that. I like the car a lot though, all around it feels to be made stronger than the 2wd, the carbon plastics make a HPI kind of TING :0 very hard
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#15
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When I get a chance I will look for a fix for that (binding). Im sure theres a way to shim it or whatever it needs. Also my rear rims rubbed on the hub carrier, I used a washer between the hex and the rim. Ive not tried dish rims yet, it may not rub.
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#16
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I was going to mention I had a problem with one of the rear rims rubbing on the hub!. I thought it was a much more sinister problem in the first moment
![]() ![]() ![]() Anyway I didn't glue them on yet because I will probably get some other wheels before I run it. But other that the couple of issues I've mentioned in the thread now, I'm more than happy with everything else on the car. I'll show more more pictures tomorrow about all the cool little bits on the car. The hex's with the roll pins and he little screws that capture the pins on the arms, all that stuff I liked. I also have a sway bar on the rear of the car. (I think I'll order another sway bar kit for the front just in case). It takes quite a bit of time to build, muuuuuch longer than the 2wd's did but I think that adds to the value of it ![]() |
#17
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Threads updated, one more update tomorrow and it will be complete
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#18
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#19
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Who knows what can happen tomorrow, I just hope this thread gets to the second page soon because it's a bit long to load the first page each time
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#20
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![]() I put the DF03 next to it today, they are the same wheelbase |
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