Ansmann X2C Pro Diff Trouble!

[Team mad rat!]

Hi guys, raced my X2C for the past 3-4 months problem free, just recently when applying full throttle the car makes an awful noise, I have stripped the gear box down and rebuilt the diff, how ever the noise is still there. I have the upgraded idler gears, kevlar diff gear and ceramic balls. Any tips?

[mattybucks]

Your diff is too loose, once rebuilt you also need to bed it in and re-adjust. I will find or write a guide for you.

[Hpi_guy]

Take the motor out and roll the car forwards and backwards to seek if there is a problem, check all the bearings and make none of them are bad and then try rubuilding the diff with new plates and balls, also check hub bearings and driveshafts, make sure nothing is rubbing

[mattybucks]

Originally Posted by Hpi_guy

Take the motor out and roll the car forwards and backwards

Or just take the pinion off

[jim76]

Also ensure the slipper is set correctly and not locked up. Holding both wheels down, you should be able to rotate the spur with a thumb, albeit it will be stiff.

Also check the diff is tight enough by holding one wheel down and the spur gear, then try and rotate the other wheel of the car. You should see the slipper plates spinning. If you don;t and the wheel is spinning then it means your diff is too loose.

Tighten the diff a quarter turn and try again.

[steve-thebabystore]

I had similar problems, under the Tamiya section Lee Martin did a diff setting guide which has worked wonders on my x4 diffs and he looks at 2wd cars as well

[richardj]

Here's a tip we use on Team C diffs.

Take the diff plates and with a piece of wet and dry covered in a light machine oil, carefully do figure of 8 movements whilst pressing down of the plate. The MUST be done on a flat surface ie. piece of glass. Do both side of the diff plate.

Clean plates with a degreaser (motor spray).

When refittting plates onto out drives secure with a small amount of super glue. Make sure you don't get glue on the face of the plate that the diff balls run on.

[metalmickey0]

Originally Posted by steve-thebabystore

I had similar problems, under the Tamiya section Lee Martin did a diff setting guide which has worked wonders on my x4 diffs and he looks at 2wd cars as well

Have you a link. As i`ve put mine in the other way around to the manual , hopefully to stop it undo-ing. My theory is , as you hit the throttle it will tighten and not loosen the diff screw. yet to try it out

[Battle_axe]

Originally Posted by richardj

Here's a tip we use on Team C diffs.

Take the diff plates and with a piece of wet and dry covered in a light machine oil, carefully do figure of 8 movements whilst pressing down of the plate. The MUST be done on a flat surface ie. piece of glass. Do both side of the diff plate.

Clean plates with a degreaser (motor spray).

When refittting plates onto out drives secure with a small amount of super glue. Make sure you don't get glue on the face of the plate that the diff balls run on.

yuck super glue? by nature off the diff the balls should take far less force to tun so you should need nothing more than friction to hold the plates to the outdrive. my diffs always feel "too lose" but they never slip all i sue it a bit of AE black lube to hold it all together with a good sillicone lube for the balls

[Robbiejuk]

Originally Posted by Battle_axe

yuck super glue? by nature off the diff the balls should take far less force to tun so you should need nothing more than friction to hold the plates to the outdrive. my diffs always feel "too lose" but they never slip all i sue it a bit of AE black lube to hold it all together with a good sillicone lube for the balls

Yeah i just use diff grease to hold the plates in place whilst re-building.

Definatley flatten the plates off though, they definatley need doing straight out of the packet.

[DCM]

One thing everyone has overlooked is the diff spring. From memory, they are not the best. Replace the spring, nut and screw if you have no success.

[Battle_axe]

Originally Posted by Robbiejuk

Yeah i just use diff grease to hold the plates in place whilst re-building.

Definatley flatten the plates off though, they definatley need doing straight out of the packet.

must say i did 20 on the surface grinder at work 100% flat then i have had perfect diffs since

[cpzao]

Hi,

I fought with the ansmann diff for a year. You need to tune it perfectly or else you will ruin it. Seems the problem is related with the thrust bearing.

Following a friends advice, I basically replaced the screw, bolt and thrust bearing with the kyosho ones. I still use the x2c spring. I stopped having problems with the diff.

[metalmickey0]

Originally Posted by cpzao

Hi,

I fought with the ansmann diff for a year. You need to tune it perfectly or else you will ruin it. Seems the problem is related with the thrust bearing.

Following a friends advice, I basically replaced the screw, bolt and thrust bearing with the kyosho ones. I still use the x2c spring. I stopped having problems with the diff.

Got any links?

[cpzao]

Originally Posted by metalmickey0

Got any links?

I don't understand... do you want the kyosho parts serial numbers?

[Kusal]

I am using the B-fast diff parts and no problems whatsoever anymore!

[Smartalec]

As already said above make sure the spring is free to slide in the outdrive. I use a dremel to go round the edge of the spring a little to make sure it doesn't foul. What tends to happen is the spring catches so doesn't compress properly, then the plastic nut holder is put under too much stress, this causes either the nut holder to break, the nut to strip the nyloc or the nut to spin round in the holder. All of the above cacks the diff and it doesn't work properly.

Follow the Lee Martin guide to building diffs and dremel the spring for a better fit and you'll have perfect diffs (ceramic balls are a must have)

[metalmickey0]

Originally Posted by metalmickey0

Have you a link. As i`ve put mine in the other way around to the manual , hopefully to stop it undo-ing. My theory is , as you hit the throttle it will tighten and not loosen the diff screw. yet to try it out

Managed to test my theory last night at a local indoor track. And everything seems good so far. Not had to redo the diff at all. Still how i set it Even hassled my mate with his Durango at times too(when i could drive.lol)

[Mad-Wolfie]

Have to agree, scuff the diff plates on wet & dry paper - some say use toothpaste as well as that helps, although i've never tried it myself. When rebuilding the diff i always take everything apart & put it into an old camera film canister full of WD40 to degrease everything & wipe each part with kitchen paper or loo roll.. putting the diff back together with old oil & grease still hanging around on the parts makes very good grinding paste that will kill your diff in no time.

You can use a blob of grease or even some old shock oil so the plates stick to the outdrive when building, i now use diff oil (not grease) to initially coat the outdrives & also to cover the diff balls by soaking them in a spoonfull but any thin oil should suffice - tun an old coke can upside down & the little well in the bottom provides a handy container to drizzle some oil in & dunk your plates & diff balls during assembly & to roll the diff balls in the oil for a few seconds. I used to use baby oil (as it does the job & is in plentiful supply from pretty much anywhere), just so i know the parts are lubricated enough until the grease works it's way in when it's all put together & sealed with grease inside.

Use plenty of moly or teflon grease on the thrust bearings as well until you know it's worked in. I'm finding when the diff goes gritty it's more as a result of crud in the thrust bearing than actually in the diff itself, so keep a spare in your pitbox as i would always consider replacing a thrust bearing each time you do a major diff clean & rebuild.

I always use either regular RC type silicone grease, Halfords teflon cycle grease or just use the Ansmann high speed diff grease (the red one, not the coffee coloured grease) which is pretty similar if not the same as teflon cycle grease to rebuild the diff itself. The choice of grease is more personal preference but can be quite a tuning aid as different consistency grease will have a different result in how the diff feels as does the amount you use.

I also use a small drop of baby oil or thin shock oil (this is where that tub of near useless 20wt shock oil in the kit comes in handy) just drizzled over the outer gear just to coat the mesh a little until it beds in. I know opinion on this is divided, about oiling the idler & layshaft gears some say you should, some say you shouldn't, but i find just a drop helps to keep things cool while bedding it in & unlike grease doesn't cause drag.