Problems with 210 Ball Diff

[raymondkerr]

Built my DEX210 and have been running it without issue for 3 weeks, last time out the diff appeared to loosen off, and after trying to tighten it, the car had no drive, something slipping bad.

So I stripped down the diff and checked the slipper assembly and pads. Slipper looked fine, however the diff balls didn't look to be in great condition, so I opted for the Lazy Balls and rebuilt the diff again today. However when the car is assembled (Mid Motor 4 Gear Setup) I lifted the car up and by hand, turned one of the rear wheels, the other wheel turned in the same direction, when I put the car down and throttled, I get bad slipping and no drive.

The problem appears to be the same as when the original kit diff balls were used. I'm kinda stuck now with what to try next. The diff was built to the instructions, and I checked the thrust bearing cage and washers, and replaced the e-clip. the diff screw turns on the thrust bearing by hand. The diff was originally tightened full and backed off about an eighth of a turn. The slipper pads are fine and the slipper nut in tightened with about 7mm thread showing.

Any ideas why the wheels are turning in the same direction by hand ? they should turn against one another when off the ground right ?

very confused, all the other gears and the layshaft have been checked, and nothing looks out of place.

HELP!!!

[paulc]

Have you tryed holding the spur gear and turning one wheel

[graveltrap]

Sounds like the circlip has popped out of it's slot to me.

[Andrew Twigger]

I don't get why manufacturers suggest to tighten the diff all the way and then back it off X amount. This is a recipe for disaster IMO and certainly 'fully tightened' is open to interpretation. If you tighten the diff up as tight as your hands will allow then you're going to damage the plates and potentially other components too.

I hope I'm allowed to post this here - there are a number of video's detailing how to build and set the diff and slipper clutch. Don't agree with packing the grease in personally but in general it seems quite accurate.

Diff building and setting

BTW this is not to say you have overtightened your diff, but when you mentioned the 'backing it off' bit, I thought this might be of help.

[Hulk]

Defo sounds like your circlip has pushed out. Its quite hard to spot when this happens. Rebuild the diff and when you put the circlip in, expand it with some circlip pliers to make sure its sits in the groove correctly. Also make sure the flat side of the circlip is facing the correct way round.

[Origineelreclamebord]

To cause this problem there can still only be two things happening: Parts that have become faulty in the use they've had, or something goes wrong during building.

Though I believe you on it you built it as per manual, I suggest you go through the process once more, and like others have suggested, don't tighten the diff fully and then loosen it. Slightly increase the pressure instead and test whether the gear can still slip between the plates or not.

I made a build thread recently with a detailed guide for the diff. I read through all the problems, ideas and solutions and applied them to my diff build, so perhaps there's something small in there you missed?

If it still doesn't work, I'd suggest you have a good look at the remaining parts, the thrust bearing and the diff screw in particular. The diff screw's blue seal/threadlock might not be sufficient to keep the screw from becoming loose, and as such it might becomes loose the first time you put power onto it. The issues with the thrust bearing could be that it's slipping because of too much grease, the balls could be damaged, or the races.

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by Andrew Twigger

I don't get why manufacturers suggest to tighten the diff all the way and then back it off X amount.

Tighten, test, tighten some more. I'm not sure who suggests you should tighten all the way but TD don't.

[dirk702]

Simply put an Associated B4.1 ball diff or the Associated SC10 2WD gear diff in your dex210 !
Only buy yourself 2 other bearings like these http://www.jespares.com/fixings?page...roduct_id=1699
and some shims like these http://www.jespares.com/electric-mod...oduct_id=10105
With these flanged bearings in the gearbox, you only have to use 2 x 4 shims and it fits perfect !
So you can run the car with no problems, I put the gear diff from SC10 in my dex210 and its very smooth

[raymondkerr]

Originally Posted by paulc

Have you tryed holding the spur gear and turning one wheel

When I hold the spur gear and turn a wheel, both wheels still rotate in the same direction.

I'll need to strip it down again tonight and check the circlip.

Raymond

[Chris-S]

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...ild-guide-pt1/

[sunbeam]

I'm not sure who suggests you should tighten all the way but TD don't

Schumacher (in at least the Cougar sv pro instructions)
Associated (in at least the B44 & B44.1 instructions)

According to the instructins I had with the above cars.

[triplesix]

Originally Posted by sunbeam

Schumacher (in at least the Cougar sv pro instructions)
Associated (in at least the B44 & B44.1 instructions)

According to the instructins I had with the above cars.

At least for me this procedure has been working for years. I'm running the B4/4.1 since it has been released. Did the same with the Fandango diff and so far no problems. Didn't know about the different inner diameter thrust washers, I have to admit, but since there's a 50% chance to build it right, I might have been lucky