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#1
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Just finished my b44.1 - couple of Q's for help please :)
Hi Guys I'm done with the build of my b44.1... this is my first 4wd offroad car since I ran my original xx4... last millenium
A couple of things that have me puzzled, was wondering if you could help. 1- wobbly front wheels. The rims look fine, it's in the hex I'd say. Any known way to assemble them or mount them on the axle that'd minimize this? It's visually pretty scary to say the least. Any special tips on the hexes to prevent losing them everytime you change the fronts? Thanks 2- the steering post holes in the top deck are ridiculously much larger than the the plastic parts that are supposed to go in it. This creates absurd amounts of slop in the steering system. Did I get a lemon, or is this common? Is it worth trying to fix? 3- the car still sounds like a pepper mill despite breaking the primary drivetrain in for like 6hrs with an old brushed mill under 3V and shimming this properly (I think, at least definitely not on the tight ie noisy side)... this is appalling, really.... any fix? 4- Center cvd cups - all wobbly on the slipper axle... is this "normal", again? worth trying going aftermarket? 5- last but not least... anyone has a 9783 blue alum part for sale (front deck-to-tower block) please? OOS everywhere Thanks all for the help Paul |
#2
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MiCk B. :-)
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http://www.dublinmodelracing.com/ (Off-road racing in Dublin) http://www.p-dubracing.co.uk (Stocking: 8Racing / AVID / GHEA / Xpert Racing / Factory R/C / Alton Design Innovations) http://www.msdmodels.ie/ (Trackside and on-line RC supplies.) |
#3
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Might be worth rechecking the build. Responses below:
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Gareth Stanton |
#4
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1 - Sounds to me like you've put the drive pin through the CVA and then put the hex on after with the hex the wrong way round. You need the hex on the driveshaft first with the groove for the drivepin facing the outside of the car, then you put the pin through.
(Don't worry, I remember Jimmy making the same mistake when he got his review BJ4 ) 2 - The two bits of plastic from the top of the steering assembly that seat in the holes in the topdeck are pretty loose, that's just how they are. I keep meaning to try drilling a hole through the topdeck so the screw that holds the top plastic part of the steering assembly on goes through the topdeck as well. Though I suspect the slightly loose fit is intentional to allow the chassis/topdeck to flex without tweaking the steering and binding it up. 3 - Sounds like something's shimmed wrong or the grubscrew of the pinion is hitting the spur or something like that, the gearbox's on the car are very quiet. You don't need to 'run in' the gearbox, it's either built as intended or not - I just build mine up and run it. 4 - The rear cup should be pretty solid, the front one is a bit wobbily. Again this is just how it is, makes no difference. Rich |
#5
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The top of the steering rack sits tight in my top deck
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#6
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Thanks all for the quality replies Going one by one
1- oops. Enough said 2- sounds like it's a common issue. Say there's about a quarter of a millimiter on each of the post caps (yes, they're on ) in their cwf holes... not enough for the posts to move that much, especially once the deck is tightened down, but still too much for my taste especially as it's just about machining the top deck right... I guess I'll run it like that. 3- that's the one that's really upsetting me. Ok, I'll tear the car apart again and try to figure out what's up again, point #1 was humbling enough to make me skeptical about my kit-building abilities It IS turning, but not really freewheeling like I'd expect from a shaft car, although this is way less of an issue with the HP and capacity in the modern BL/lipo setups than it was in the good ole brushed motor days 4- yes the grub screws/oring are on. All right, I'll do with slightly wobbily cups. Wilco if I find anything interesting re drivetrain. Thanks all Best, Paul PS: no one with a 9783 for sale, then? they've been bo'ed everywhere since I started looking 2mths ago |
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Made me laugh. |
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