TLR 22 2.0

[Flauschi215]

Nice News from TLR (seen on Facebook)


Making it's debut this week at the 2013 ROAR Electric Off-Road Nationals is the new Team Losi Racing™ 22™ 2.0 buggy.

Go to TLRacing.com for all the info, specs, images and video.



https://www.facebook.com/pages/Team-...ocation=stream

[AfroP]

"Go to TLRacing.com for all the info, specs, images and video."

theres no mention of it on the site :P


found stuff here

http://www.redrc.net/2013/08/tlr-22-v2-0-2wd-buggy-kit/

[absolute alignment]

The 2.0 sounds like a std 22 but with most hop up parts from tlr. I wonder what the revised front geometry is? Maybe 5deg caster blocks. Or is there something I'm missing on this? Have they changed something major to get us back on the pace with the good old tank 22

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Finally I can speak about this :-)

There are a lot of small detail changes that have gone into the 22 2.0 It's easy, at first glance, to miss them but they all add up in different ways to making the 2.0 easier to drive and easier to push with.

First up, the most obvious is perhaps the inclusion of several hop up items as standard (threaded hinge pins, alloy front bulkhead, alloy washers etc). The shocks now feature 2 hole 1.6mm machined pistons as standard along with machined shock spacers and X-ring seals and all hinge pins and shock shafts now have that uber sexy dark TiCN coating that the 8ight 3.0 series also has.

The Steering Rack has been tweaked to enable the Ackermann angle to be changed (the inner ball stud is now horizontal and can be shimmed forward / backward) and mid motor owners can now choose to retain their batteries with a new hinge plate that can double up as a Rx or ESC plate.

One of my personal favourites (thanks Frank) is the inclusion of a small retaining screw that now holds the forward rear wishbone pivot block and anti squat shim in place so you can remove the mid car gearbox without the rear suspension falling apart.

The new 6.5inch rear wing is made from ultra thick lexan and there have been subtle revisions to the 22 bodyshape to accommodate the revised battery mounting system (rear motor users can now use a battery brace and thumbscrews as opposed to velcro). Interestingly, there is also mention of a new Cab Forward bodyshell on the options list and my understanding is that the US team have some pre-production versions of these to run at this weekend's US ROAR nationals.

The revised front geometry does indeed feature 5 degree caster blocks along with 4mm trailing axles but it must be noted that these are NEW items and the geometry is significantly different from the older original car.
We've tested this new front geometry for quite some time and the difference is quite startling. Its best summed up as saying that it accommodates a more aggressive driving style and allows the driver to push harder without fear of the car snatching or hooking with the resultant loss of rear traction. This makes the car feel much easier to drive without making it numb or non-reactive. It also affects the way that the car loads up during the corner so again, you benefit from a more consistent feel through longer turns without robbing yourself of any initial sharpness or feel.

I could go on but I think the pictures probably speak more than I can. You can check out more details and look at the pictures here.

Enjoy :-)

[Cremegg]

the thing that i am most interested in is that mid motor esc mounting brace

im persuming that this part could be bought to fit on the standard tlr 22?

thanks

[Gnarly Old Dog]

I should imagine so. I think you'd need to look at part number TLR232014 primarily although you'd then need some fasteners (it uses the front king pins as the hinge pivot fasteners) and possibly you might have to drill a couple of holes in the old v1 chassis to accommodate the front battery stop moulding. I'm unclear on the last point though - that would be worst case. It could be that the new moulding will use the same holes as the front battery stop on the v1 kits do.

[Moose]

The revised means that we dont have to dremel the steering parts to get the right hub position now right?
I guess the ackermann plate is great, I tried to make this mod on my own with the old rack but it has very little space for the screws, very nice to get a better solution now .
Cant wait to get my hands on the machined shock parts. The old shock shaft were the worst I ever had (One run and deep scratches in the shafts) and I hope they are comparable with associated shafts now.
But a few questions:
I saw the differences between the SCT diff outdrives the old 22 ones. Can you explain why they changed the diff outdrives?
Stock springs? Not the new linear ones?
New ball cups? The sct had the ones with HD on them are those stock here too?

[Gnarly Old Dog]

@Moose.

Not sure what you've been dremelling so can't answer definitively (sorry).
This is not the same as the long camber link that some of the team used if that's what you are referring to?

As for the Ackermann - agreed - there's little room on the existing slider to achieve much in the way of inner ball stud movement. I understand from Frank Root's post that the new rack sees the ball stud mounted higher up than the old one as well as being able to be shimmed. I expect it will be a good tuning aid.

As I understand it, the outdrives were changed to accommodate a final machining op to ensure that the plates were a flat as possible when mounted. For sure, the revised outdrives make for a smooth diff but with care, I've not had a problem with the older, non-machined outdrives.

Springs - yes they are the new LF springs included in the kit as standard (one set for front and one set for rear)

Ball Cups - According to the instructions, ball cups are TLR6018 - so the originals as far as I know.

[cunawarit]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

One of my personal favourites (thanks Frank) is the inclusion of a small retaining screw that now holds the forward rear wishbone pivot block and anti squat shim in place so you can remove the mid car gearbox without the rear suspension falling apart.

That alone makes it worth buying the V2.0! Needing 4 hands when removing the mid-motor gearbox is really the only thing that's made me swear repeatedly with the 22.

[MikePimlott]

So they tested bell cranks and they was better on high grip but it was too late to include it in the kit!!!

Will it be an option part ?

[Razer]

Originally Posted by cunawarit

That alone makes it worth buying the V2.0! Needing 4 hands when removing the mid-motor gearbox is really the only thing that's made me swear repeatedly with the 22.

I did that mod over a year ago with a drill bit, countersink tool and a 3mm tap:P

It so nice to see that TLR have taken all the small details we all automatically alter for the better, and just done it for us! Love it!