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#1
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CAT SX Build Tips
Thought I would just start this thread for information and tips when building the CAT SX.
Firstly I would recommend looking at the set up sheets in the back of the manual before building the car. Unfortunately the manual was designed well before a lot of the development work was done so does not necessarily reflect how the guys have run it. Secondly and quite importantly there are some features/settings on the car that can run you into trouble with the diff outputs both front and rear. It is possible if the car is run with a combination of some of the following it is possible to snap the diff outputs if they drop into the output slot under full bump; (as shown in the picture below) -Very narrow (Small amount of washers against transmission) -Very laydown shock -Short upper camber link -Very short shocks To check, hold the suspension at full bump with shock attached and make sure the driveshaft rotates smoothly and clears the slot. I for one will be running an O ring above the spring retainer for a bit of extra impact absorption. |
#2
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What a great idea.
Would be nice to see plenty of tips on here. |
#3
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Great tips!!
Thanks for the tips... Keep them coming...
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#4
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I can recommend checking the plastic belt pully guides for sharp edges as mine have some nasty ones which could catch the belt.
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#5
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well soon as i drag myself away from Ibiza i will start to build mine
__________________
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#6
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Well I have built the shocks and put all of the rest of the car together today and have the following notes and advice:-
There does seem to be alot of slop in the steering and the plastic ball cups do seem to be very slack on the balls. Whether this is a problem will only be found when the car is run. When screwing the threaded pivot pin screws through the hub carrier into the yoke make sure the you get it as square as possible otherwise the yoke wil be stiff when rotating. Mine wen slightly out on one side and I made sure I was much more careful on the otherside. Clean the inside of the shock bodies top and bottom and make sure that the o-rings and plastics that go in the end of the shocks are clean of any of the white power. Put some shock oil on the threads really helps the parts go together avoiding getting anything cross threaded I feel that the 25wt oil in the front shocks feels very light. I like the feel of the 35wt in the back. I suppose I will find out how it goes when I run the car. Make sure that you do not follow the dimple holes in the undertray and actually measure this up and make the holes based on where the tray ends up sitting. |
#7
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The setup provided by following the manual gives too much camber change front and rear. I recommend refering to a setup sheet in the back, or on here, to decide on a position - but don't start on that manual setup guys. Same goes for shock oils/pistons/position.
Also, I am sure Matt White will confirm or correct me, but where the manual setup states 0mm for the front outer ballstud height, this is when the caster block has been cut so the top is level. Also, as mentioned, put an external spacer on the shocks. I have put 3mm in all mine tonight to begin with which is verging on excessively big (until I get some more Nortech O rings at weekend), and combined with a sensible camber link setup, the driveshafts miss the slots by miles now. O rings here are better than solid spacers, each O ring as an average compresses to 0.03', so I will be putting 2 on per shock. if your driveshaft goes into (or very close to) the slot of the outdrive at full compression - reduce driveshaft plunge further (either with camber change or car width) or limit shocks more. |
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