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  #1  
Old 20-09-2012
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V6Jim V6Jim is offline
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Default Caster SK10 Pro. Any other Casterites out there?

Just got me a secondhand Caster SK10 Pro. Looks pretty good, I have to say! Has anybody else out there got one and managed to get it sorted and working properly.

There is no Caster specific section, so I've popped this in here...

Cast1.jpg

Cast4.jpg

Cast5.jpg

Cast2.jpg

Cast3.jpg

Hope pictures have worked OK. Shell is not my doing, but I actually quite like it!

Jimmy
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1985, 1986 & 1987 Scottish 1/10th Off-Road Champion.

Re-started 2012. With Caster SK10
Driving Xray XB4 & Precirotate PRS1 V2 for 2014.
Hobby Pro PRS1 V2 2WD and PRSB10 4WD for 2015
Team Inside Line Racing with PR Racing buggies for 2016, 2017 & 2018.
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  #2  
Old 20-09-2012
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JCJC JCJC is offline
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Don't know much about the Caster Jim but I understand it has more than a resemblance to the old HPI Hotbodies Cyclone D4 (has a section), some parts may be interchangable. The D4 could/can be made to go well, good luck with it. Hope this is helpful
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Old 20-09-2012
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Collegeboy Collegeboy is offline
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I have up graded from the rtr SK10, to nearly full spec pro. I have had some good results with it and enjoy the challenge of competing with the more popular brands out there. It certainly can compete, and on a good day, be right up there. Alot of people keep saying that I shoud get rid of it, but I love driving the car and each time I don't do as well as I would of hoped, for one rerason or another, it just makes me more determined to try different things. I love tinkering with it and improving things. I will be running it for another year in our regionals and throughout the winter months, at quite a few series. I truely believe the car has so much potential yet to be unleased. Pete at Answer-Rc is the main importer, and offers excellent customer service and advice.

Good to see another fellow SK10 drver.

feel free to PM me if you have any questions
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Old 20-09-2012
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V6Jim V6Jim is offline
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Hi Collegeboy. You wouldn't believe the number of people who have tried to discourage me from getting this. Like yourself, this is just fuel to my fire! To me, this thing looks just fine. This is the full V2 conversion with enough bits to build another car!

I'll PM you with my contact info so we can compare notes...

Jimmy
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1985, 1986 & 1987 Scottish 1/10th Off-Road Champion.

Re-started 2012. With Caster SK10
Driving Xray XB4 & Precirotate PRS1 V2 for 2014.
Hobby Pro PRS1 V2 2WD and PRSB10 4WD for 2015
Team Inside Line Racing with PR Racing buggies for 2016, 2017 & 2018.
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  #5  
Old 21-09-2012
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Collegeboy Collegeboy is offline
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Hi Jimmy,

Got your PM and I will send you pictures of the mods I have done, when I next see my stepson, as i have not got a clue on how to attach pictures. He's good at all that stuff, so I might be able to send some setup sheets that I divised.

Have fun

Paul
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  #6  
Old 25-09-2012
eddscott eddscott is offline
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Havent got one myself but always fancied one. I kind of collect 1/10 4WD cars and would love one. Shame they dont come up too often on the bay.
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  #7  
Old 25-09-2012
mounty mounty is offline
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hi ive run the castor sk10pro for two years.the car has got better an better each run.geared diffs are a must.i couldn't get on with caster shocks changed them then went from d finals to b finals.pete at answer has been a good help so many thanks to him.if i can give any help to anyone i will.
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  #8  
Old 03-02-2013
braddock braddock is offline
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Hi Jimmy,

Think you could be right about the drive pin in the cvd, Me and the others havnt had any issues with this! The old pin is possibly moving enough to fall out of the cvd at one end then pushing through past the spring!

Another thing I forgot to mention, is the outer c hub hinge pins, are a bolt now instead of uba flimsy pins they used to use, also I think you can use these on the V2, as the wishbones are the same.

My setup is diffs 7000F 3000R. Shocks 500F 400R using the the stock white springs, trying to find which other springs will fit, but there bigger than most. also as you can see, using the plastic upper chassis supports to give a little flex, on the low grip indoor track! 1deg neg camber on the back with 3deg toe in. Front 1 deg neg camber and 1 deg toe out. Ride height 20mm back 19mm front with full droop.

The only disappointing thing is the shock towers, 3mm I think they would be better with 4mm. There fine most of the time but can bend with relative ease, after a small crash!!

Hope this is helpful to you and anyone else reading.
Matt

If anyone is interested I have my old V2 for sale on eBay. Open to offers..
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  #9  
Old 03-02-2013
braddock braddock is offline
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image.jpg
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  #10  
Old 03-02-2013
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V6Jim V6Jim is offline
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Nice to see your V3! Love those shocks....

Here's a quick (not so quick) rundown on my evening at the Lancashire Dirt Arena.

What a great venue! It's easily the biggest track I have ever driven on. Wide and flowing with a back straight I reckon to be about 40 - 50m long. The surface was a sandy loam that we all thought wouldn't hold up very well to a nights punishment - especially from the hoards of Eighth Nitro Buggies.



Triple jump in front of the drivers, small jump just after the switchbacks in the centre and a double just before you start to wind up for the straight. The switchbacks developed lovely berms as the night wore on and the jumps help up very well.

The dirt did get into everything though and the car probably weighed about half a kilo more at the end of the race than it did at the beginning!



The car went well when it was running, but it failed to finish 3 of the 4 qualifiers due to CVD failures and a broken rear swingarm. The CVD thing was my fault as I used pins that were too short, that's sorted now. The rear arm failure is also my fault as I'd modified it to lengthen the wheelbase. I'll not go into the details, but my modification worked, in as much as it improved the handling of the car, and failed, in that it weakened the arm.

All that dirt just brushed off, and I was amazed that none of the bearings were damaged and everything else seems fine.

After breaking the rear arm, I reverted to the stock setup and standard wheelbase and was amazed at how much worse the car felt! So, a longer wheelbase car works for me!

I've found a way to lengthen the wheelbase without weakening the rear arms. Just move the whole rear suspension assembly back 7mm!( It can be moved back without having to move the gearbox).

Easy with the front hinge pin bracket, but the back one isn't as easy. I've had to cobble together a chassis extension to carry the back bracket. Anyway, it's done and it feels solid, if not particularly pretty. My undertray will cover the back plate, so it shouldn't hank on the ground noticeably!





The car has probably reached it's full development now and is a million times better to drive now than it was when I first got it, and really look forward to returning to the LDA for the big race in March!

Jimmy
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1985, 1986 & 1987 Scottish 1/10th Off-Road Champion.

Re-started 2012. With Caster SK10
Driving Xray XB4 & Precirotate PRS1 V2 for 2014.
Hobby Pro PRS1 V2 2WD and PRSB10 4WD for 2015
Team Inside Line Racing with PR Racing buggies for 2016, 2017 & 2018.
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  #11  
Old 04-02-2013
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KennyClark KennyClark is offline
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Sounds like another disaster Jim.
Surely time to ditch the Caster in favour of something that might finish a race?
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  #12  
Old 04-02-2013
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V6Jim V6Jim is offline
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The Caster stays for the time being. I like it, but also realize it's got it's foibles! The failures on Friday were all my doing.

Give it a chance, Kenny, you might be surprised...

Jimmy
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1985, 1986 & 1987 Scottish 1/10th Off-Road Champion.

Re-started 2012. With Caster SK10
Driving Xray XB4 & Precirotate PRS1 V2 for 2014.
Hobby Pro PRS1 V2 2WD and PRSB10 4WD for 2015
Team Inside Line Racing with PR Racing buggies for 2016, 2017 & 2018.
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