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#1
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Too many questions for one forum, please help!!
Yet again I seem to be showing my lack of knowledge on undertaking a Schumacher KC build and need some help.
I've been looking for some name stickers for my shell. Looking around the forums I've tried to contact Oople who do them (or at least used to) without a response. Are there any dependable places to get these from? Basic One line name with a flag would do for me. I've been getting some parts together to build this thing and have failed to realise till it was too late that to compete they would need to be Roar specified. Because of this I bought another ESC, Corally Pro 120a, and a 17.5t Trinity Monster, but would like to swap it with a 7.5t Reedy or similar back and forth. Because of the need to swap I can't directly solder the ESC and motor and need to resort to connectors. I've basicly exhausted what I can find on the subject and would like a bit of help if at all possible. I've concluded that ideally I would need 10awg wire, but it's difficult to work with and solder to the motor and ESC, so I've settled on 12AWG wire. This leads to the connectors required for the Amps I'll be running. The Reedy would need 63 amps continuous so can I assume 4mm bullet connectors will work? Also if bullet connectors are the way to go does heat shrink provide enough insolation for the connectors to stop them shorting? All the good connectors don't seem to come with covers. Lastly I'm having a go at painting a shell for it. I'm not the best, but was able to go a great job on a Rapid Fit Mondeo shell for my TT-01. If all else fails are there any good places to go for a custom shell? Thanks again for the help. Last edited by Infinitesd; 03-09-2018 at 12:09 PM. |
#2
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You can use 14AWG in 2wd without any issues, 12AWG is "better" if you have long cable runs. Which you should try and avoid anyway.
10AWG is really for continuous high drain applications, i don't even use it in a 4s 8th scale. I also have used 4mm bullet connectors in line to enable motor swaps, but i use the heat shrink as a complete sleeve over each connector, it means i need to cut the tube to swap motor, but experimenting with just trying to insulate the connector just leads to the connector sliding apart under big impacts and shorting out. So a full sleeve solves both issues...... I gave up eventually, as it was just a pain in the arris to swap motors, pinions, changing set up on the ESC etc. So i bought a second car, |
#3
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Quote:
I've often thought about a second chassis like maybe 2wd Associated B6D, but I really don't have the resources to run two machines (as tempting as it might be), that and trying to explain to the wife on how these two buggies are similar, but different wouldn't go down very well. It's a shame that these buggies are so specialised that you can't run in either conditions. I'll try the full sleeve heat shrink for now and see how it goes. I'm guessing I can always resolder a direct connection in the future if I find I only run one motor. I finally received my ESC as well and it comes with wires and a capacitor to use (gonna have to research how to install that one now) so that sorts the wire issue as well. As for the decals I found RC decals looking at the forum. I'll see how those work, very easy to order, and was able to design my own (within reason). Just need a paint design now. |
#4
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Just a quick point - are you based in the USA by any chance? Confused as you mentioned ROAR but then threw me with a Rapid Fit Mondeo livery.
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#5
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Sorry I'm American, but live in the UK so I'm always drifting between the two when I talk. I meant BRCA approved. I think with most things ROAR and BRCA seem to have similar rules and accepted motors, etc..
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#6
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Ha, no worries - was just going to point out that you don't need ROAR approved kit in the UK.
Even then, unless you're doing regionals / nationals, or race at a club that has hard ruling then the BRCA approved stuff doesn't matter either - the club I race at the only stipulation they make is hardcase lipos and charging in lipo safes. |
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