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#1
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BJ4WE and total lack of balance
Right then, before I make a choice between the for sale section or encasing the car in a block of concrete I want to make sure I am not missing a trick!!!
The BJ4WE seems to be a total piglet .... absolutely without balance in any way shape or form!!! The only place I have got it anywhere close to how I want it has been indoors on carpet and then it was passable at best!!! The problem is a lack of balance, if you have front end grip you don't have rear and vice versa. At kiddy I just couldn't get the nose into the corners without having the rear set so that you couldn't carry any throttle through the corners let alone adjust trottle mid corner. At Coventry today I had absolutely no traction or sidebite at all and trying to set the car soft to help traction and sidebite it became really random (rolling about too much). I then stiffened the car back up and although it was much easier to drive it was a full second a lap SLOWER than when it was soft. Ok, it was consistently slow and much easier to drive but at least 1 second a lap slower than before (The top of the A went quicker than they had done all day so th track hadn't given out). I've tried Richard Lowe's set-ups and working around those but they have FAR too much high speed understeer for my tastes. I am convinced it is a combination of the rear inner link position not being outboard enough of the lower hinge pin and the fact the weight is too far back. Both of these will lead to the collapsing of the rear end. My question is what have people done to deal with this this .... other than the S4 conversion obviously?? I have a couple more runs this year with the car and want to make sure I use them wisely. I don't mind rubbish placings due to constantly changing the car during the winter, all part of learning your way round a new car. The only problem is that I am going to have to do this with the 2wd too so have to move onto that in the new year. If anybody can help I'd be greatful, if not I'm going to have to chance chassis. |
#2
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Quote:
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who knows who cares |
#3
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Whatever is most appropriate on tyres and always use the DC Racing light blue inserts (same as the snee ones)
Trust me, it's not a tyre issue as I've tried "interesting" choices too. |
#4
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fresh ballistic pinks or blues
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#5
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who knows who cares |
#6
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please read this
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who knows who cares |
#7
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Should point out I've been through .....
all rear link positions (1-3 washers as I can't get 4 in and rely on the nylock nuts) both standard anti-squat settings .. and a bit of shimming EVER Associated rear spring Lots of oil changes Smae at the front except I've not tried the longer link at the front as yet .... only so many runs in a day! |
#8
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Quote:
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who knows who cares |
#9
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Somebody has the article code of the long Losi ball studs (I need them for the 4 washers under the rear camber link).
When you say "short camber link", what does this mean exactly? Still learning! Thanks! |
#10
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roger, i only use the one way, i dont use the springs in it or the shiny CVD`s, my car is totally standard
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#11
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Roger
You’re asking for help, everyone that is quick is saying use a one way diff and no-body has any issues with using it. So it’s either don’t buy one and have an apparently slow car that doesn’t suit you, or buy a one way and have a fast car that doesn’t suit you! You’re right about the cost, but everyone I race know and race with (not just F1’s now but all the lads I know) uses one in a range of cars (XX4, X5 and BJ4’s primarily though). My shiney front CVD’s have been in since the indoor finals so have done a whole season and though a little worn, they won’t be changed anytime soon.
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Nortech is ACE! |
#12
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I didn't like the one way to start off with but after a couple of meetings the car started feeling so much better. I don't think i would go back to a diff.
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#13
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First of all I must thank everybody for all the thoughts, ideas and information. It is greatly appreciated.
Lee, are the standard (non shiney) CVD's holding up ok??? I've been told by most people that they don't last long and should be changed out at the time of fitting a one-way diff. It's interesting if you think they (the kit black ones) are ok on your car Dan, I appreciate what your saying mate. My experience of them on several other cars (xxx4, Yok BCS) is that they don't suit me ..... I even ran non-oneway driveshafts on my old Procat!!! Shiney CVDs are supposed to be quite strong and wear resistant so I'm not suprised yours have lasted well. Ian, my problem is that not only do I not like the snatchy way they drive (especially how they feel as you go on and off the throttle mid S-bend) but also my last experience of one was that I didn't finish a race all season due to a transmision failure, of some sort, in each and every run. I think that the evidence is mounting ....... the car needs a one-way diff to perform well in the UK. I'm going to have to think about my options. Out of interest has anybody had a BJ4WE go well with a centre one-way fitted or is it all doomed??? |
#14
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Quote:
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#15
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HI I RAN A BJ4WE LAST SEASON AND TRIED ALL THE OPPTIONS(ONE WAY,CENTRE ONE WAY,DIFF) AND FOUND THE CAR EXTREMELY QUICK WITH THE ONE WAY BUT INCONSISTENT.WITH THE CENTRE ONEWAY THE CAR WAS QUICK AND EASIER TO DRIVE BUT I FOUND THE DIFF JUST AS QUICK AND FAR MORE CONSISTENT.HAVE SINCE SOLD THE CAR(GETTING B44) AND UNFORTUNEATLY DONT HAVE ANY OF MY SETUPS .SORRY CANT BE MORE HELP BUT I DID FIND THE CAR EXCELLENT.
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