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Old 22-02-2008
pro4nut pro4nut is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: London
Posts: 540
Default Uk starting point set up

Could someone let me know what a reasonable starting point would be?

Are you still using associated springs or Tamiya's own?

Any random pointers would be welcome
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Old 22-02-2008
sosidge's Avatar
sosidge sosidge is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,774
Default

I am still not 100% happy with my setup but I am pretty close to a base setup.

This was very driveable on higher grip indoor tracks e.g. NERCR regional, I'm still struggling for a bit of steering on the slippy floor at the local club but part of that is my driving!

I'll run through it quickly as it is now...

Front:

Shocks - 501X, 3mm internal spacer
Piston - Option 1.3mm
Oil - Much-More #500
Spring - DB01 kit
Shock mounting position - 3rd hole out top, middle hole bottom
Ride height - Bones level
Camber link - outer hole inboard, kit outboard
Camber - 1 degree negative
Drive - One-way diff (always seems faster unless you need a lot of braking and the grip is low)
Toe-in - straight ahead


Rear

Shocks - 501X, 2mm internal spacer
Piston - Option 1.4mm
Oil - Much-More #300
Spring - DB01 kit
Shock mounting position - 3rd hole out top, outer bottom
Ride height - Bones level
Camber link - kit
Camber - 1 degree negative

Other notes

Slipper and front UJs fitted.
12x1 V2 motor on 18 pinion.
EP 4200 cells, Keyence speedo, Futaba 9451 servo

Overall the two things that have made the biggest difference have been moving the shocks to the outer hole on the rear arm (unfortunately you can't do that with the kit shocks without losing far too much travel) - this has stopped the car from over-rolling in the corners and made it a lot sharper. Also the one-way seems faster in pretty much every situation although the diff is a lot easier to drive, especially if you need a lot of braking on low grip.

Hope this helps a little.
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