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#2061
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Best belt tension for the Durga
I have been trying to fine tune the belt tension of my Durga, and was looking for some advice.
I have always been running my Durga with the belts firm, but not stretched.. This seems to be the best tension, but I am not entirely sure since I could not find any information to confirm one way or another. Is it better to tension the belt so it stretches a tiny bit between the pulleys? Or is this a bad idea? Thanks. |
#2062
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it has to have a little amount of up-down movement, and you can run your front belt a little looser than the rear, only time and experience will tell. If it is too loose, you will hear it skip, stop straight away, and tighten it one notch, if it is too tight, you wear out pulleys, bearings and belts.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#2063
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Ive only broken belts (501X not durga) when they are too tight - not loose. I set the tension so it doesn't 'ping' - if that makes sense. So it's not like a guitar string but doesn't sag.
__________________
If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. |
#2064
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Belt tension
Thanks for the help.. Sounds like my original belt tension is just about right.. I got the new 'reinforced' belts a couple of days ago and wanted to set them the best way possible..
The reinforced belts look the same as the original belts except for the surface area along the tooth side.. It is now coated with a dark brown fiber material.. It looks like it will cut down the wear as well as strengthen the belt. |
#2065
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Front wing for the DB01 included with the lowered wing!
And those new belts do look like they will be stronger, a teeny bit wider too it seems. |
#2066
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Could you post more pics of the 511 build process
Thanks in avance. |
#2067
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For those of you that run a one-way; do you prefer the center one-way or the one-way diff? My car currently has a one-way diff and the car feels a bit too squirrely for me. This is the first car I've ever owned with a one-way diff in it as I've always run a center one-way in all of my previous 4wd buggies. Think the center one-way would help calm it down?
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Ron M. USA |
#2068
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Quote:
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#2069
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Front and Center One-Ways
Yup. The Front One-Way is only designed for high traction driving (carpet tracks etc). The Center One-Way works best for regular lower traction dirt tracks where tire grip can be lost and the diff action needs to kick in.
All the tracks in my area are standard dirt (indoor and outdoor). The Center One-Way has worked excellent. |
#2070
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dimblum,
I think I read in another forum that you tried the TOBEE hex adaptors for the bigger hexed rims/wheels. Did those work well? Thanks.
__________________
http://www.modrc.com |
#2071
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Tobee Craft 12mm hex adapters
Quote:
I have not been in a big hurry since my local track frowns upon any driver that uses oversized wheels for racing. I can tell you that the adapters are "very" well made and look excellent.. Now I just need to figure out what wheels would work well with the larger hex size?? To be honest, I would much rather use these adapters than the stock wheel adapters so long as I could fit a comparable 1/10 scale wheels to fit them.. Do you happen to know what 4WD buggy wheels would fit a 12mm hex without being similar to a 1/8th scale wheel? Dan |
#2072
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I would guess that the DF-03 and DT-02 wheels would fit, they are 12mm hex fittings.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#2073
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aren't the rims on the hot bodies D4 12mm? As well as the kyosho lazer sp.
__________________
Mark Dyson Clown |
#2074
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Academy wheels are also 12mm hex.
__________________
Quote:
pm me bitch, or is it past your bedtime?
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#2075
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Ya. Kyosho, Academy and some older Tamiya cars (DF-02 and DF-03). It's actually the hex size of touring car wheels. I was going to get the TOBEE adaptors but was worried they look thicker than the original hexes and might need thinner wheel nuts or something.
__________________
http://www.modrc.com |
#2076
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If you want to race with any of these 12mm hex wheels - just be aware that regular 12mm hex wheels are a different off set to Losi fitment wheels. D4 use 12nn hex and are the same or close offset as Losi, same with Kyosho SP wheels afaik (but not ZX5)
I tried D4 wheels on my DF03 and the car was too narrow at one end and too wide at the other! If you wanna use 12mm hex wheel - get D4 wheels as they should be the best fit I think.
__________________
If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. |
#2077
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12mm Wheels to fit Tobee Adapters
Thanks for the info everyone
The D4 wheels pretty much match the standard Tamiya Dish Wheel, but I might give them a try so I can test the Tobee adapters. The JConcepts Rulux wheels are my favorite so far and are a direct fit to the stock front Hex and rear Pin. These are the coolest looking 4WD wheels I have run and are very well made. Dan |
#2078
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Thanks for all the info, Jimmy and dimblum
__________________
http://www.modrc.com |
#2079
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DB-01 Durga Racing (Club Track)
I was hoping to get some advice from some of the experienced racers out there. Here is my quick story:
I've been racing my DB-01 Durga at a local club track for about a year now. The car is fully loaded with hop-ups, Orion 3800 lipo, Novak GTB w/13.5, etc. I started in 'Novice' Class, moved up to 'Stock' and just started 'Super Stock 4WD' (all cars using 13.5 in the class). I have learned quite a bit about racing and better ways to set up my car from helpful racers at the track and from "a lot" of online research. I quickly realised how much my driving had to change with the 13.5 when a fellow racer came up to me and said "Why are you driving your car like you have a 17.5 when you are running a 13.5?" That really woke me up.. I was going too easy on my driving and not really using the break or pushing the throttle to keep up with the pack.. My final race ended up being the best even though I broke the rear belt cover and had no rear suspension for the last two laps around the track.. Did I loose, yup, but I finished a lap over my previous qualifying runs - and I had to ease off the throttle once the rear end of my car was dragging around the track .. Let's just say I was determined to finish the Main I didn't care that I lost. I was excited because I pushed myself to drive more aggressive and learned to use the breaks properly at some of the hairpin corners to get me around the track faster. I was hoping to get some tips from other 4WD racers out there on ways that I might further improve my skills and control - and maybe improve the setup of my car.. Here is my basic setup: Track condition - Outdoor hard dirt (sometimes dusty) Tires - JConcepts Double Dees (green compound (super soft)) Center One Way - it does not spin as freely as it used to. Is there a safe lubricant for One Ways? TRF Aerated Dampers - Tamiya Yellow sping (front) red spring (rear) 25W oil all around Tamiya Hard Anti Rollbar (rear) Tamiya Slipper Clutch (Standard 3.5mm setting) Novak GTB w/13.5 and Team Orion 3800 lipo (as above). FDR at 6.8 to match Novak's recommended gearing for 4WD. Temperature is good after 5-6min runs, gets hot after 12-15min (on practice days). Thanks in advance for any advice. Dan |
#2080
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Quote:
I personally don't race my Durga, but i can try to answer some of your questions to the best of my knowledge. Looking at your setup and all it seems like you already know what your doing to a good degree. You have the proper tire compound for the type of track you are racing on. You have the best dampers i guess you can have for this car and come to think about it, your car has more option part's than mine since i dont use a roll bar but i do have the front one way opposed to your center. Im not really sure the differences between them on the track. If you dont already have the 501x diff halves you really look into getting a pair especially if ur gonna be racing and all. As far as set ups are concerned, you can tinker around and see what works best for you. There are a couple set up sheets around here and on the net if you look around. You can also tighten your slipper some more and see hoe that feels. Make sure your shocks are all in sync as far as rebound is concerned. Basic stuff like that. It's all test and trial i guess you can say. Just have fun with it, experiment different settings, research the net and see what works best for you and your track. But as i said earlier, you seem to have the proper hop ups and some knowledge of your own. As time goes by you will learn more things during that ride. Good Luck |
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