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#61
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Dave, what cut out do the 51449 have for 2WD? Never realized that! |
#62
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Just my thought. Will also make some other "adjustments".
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#63
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__________________
Dave "Amish FJ" Gibson RB Products ~ Yokomo Nuclear RC ~ Xpert ~ Hacker |
#64
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one more time thanks for your effort, it's precious! I know your time is short and i promise this is my last post for you.... On 201 i need a couple more info: 1) Cutting rear arms 2mm and shortening wheelbase: I don't understand this copletely.... sorry but my english is not that good..... 2) Would you adivise to use the OPT chassis (high traction) on Dirt dry and low traction tracks? Now on the 8th: 1) We will see some Set Up sheets on "your" TRF site? 2) If not, can you give some set up guide lines for Dirt dry and low traction conditon? Thanks in advance. Bye WWD |
#65
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New TRF511 owner
Very happy one at that. Already like better than my DEX410 v3.
Is anyone running big bore shocks and which one's. The rears need rebuilding so just trying to decide to rebuild or by a different set of shocks. Also what rear hub do most run 0,.5, or 1 degree. Is everyone still running pin set up in axle for wheel or can I fit 12mm hexes, what brand? Thanks.... |
#66
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Most run the std shocks albiet with the better looking HL gold cylinders. Not seen any 511 with big bores fitted personally. Rear hubs, my settings are - zero degree on high grip dry astro, 0 or 0.5 indoors and 1.0 in the wet. Std pin setup at the back. Std Tamiya wheels or Losi rims fit without modification. HTH |
#67
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As rich says really.
Use pin. No big bores, the TRF shocks work really good.aune try some different springs? Lee
__________________
Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! |
#68
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Lee, what are those yellow spring you use In Pau during Euro ? From another brand ? Kyosho ones ? If yes, why using these insteed of the Tamiya ones ?
Thanks
__________________
Tamiya F103 - Hobbywing 13.5 - Hobbywing 1S Tamiya TRF201 - PRT HS 10.5 - Tekin RS Pro http://rctouch.over-blog.com/ |
#69
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They are Kyosho springs, I now use them on my 511. The tamiya springs needed to be cut down.
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#70
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Ok, thanks. I'm happy for now with the stock spring, so, I think just play with the oil for my local track.
__________________
Tamiya F103 - Hobbywing 13.5 - Hobbywing 1S Tamiya TRF201 - PRT HS 10.5 - Tekin RS Pro http://rctouch.over-blog.com/ |
#71
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TRF 201 - My Return to Racing
This is a really helpful thread! Thumbs up to Lee for offering his knowledge.
I haven't raced since the mid 1990's, but a recently ordered a TRF 201 (Limited Edition) from HK, nowhere to be found in Australia I'm affraid! I'm looking forward to racing the car as is out of box and then progressively trying the modifications Lee has suggested. Most tracks I'll be running on will be hard packed clay and outdoors. Grip will be a matter of how much 'Aussie' dust there is. I'll be starting of in a Stock Class 17.5 turn Brushlesh. A question: Lee any tips on building the TRF 201 out of the box? Should I be installing upgraded ball studs from scratch as I have been reading that the standard versions break or bend easily? Any other items to replace to make the car as bullet proof as possible? Regards David |
#72
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David,
The 201 is very good out of the box in terms of quality. You can look into Ceramic diff balls and also spring options. Things to try - LMR Bulkhead for 201 - adding 35g of weight to front to make better at jumping and on bumpy tracks to keep the noise down! The car is very strong also! you can try the 501X HD rear arms if you ever break a standard one? these are super strong!!! Another nice touch is the Rudebits carbon battery strap! Hope this helps. Lee
__________________
Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! |
#73
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A question on the 201, i seem to have a large of amount of bump steer on a very bumpy track i race on. I can not tell if its more front or rear but it seams worse on full throttle but i have plenty of traction. An advice would be appreciated.
jK
__________________
DB01-R/RRR TRF 503 Carbon TRF 201XM,Fast Attack Vehicle.RC 10 Classic. Top Force Evo,Optima Mid, Mardave Cobra. |
#74
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Congrats
Hi Lee, slightly off topic but congrats on your new arrival.
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#75
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Thanks for those tips! I've been looking on the JT models and RC Domination website and cannot find the "LMR Bulkhead for 201". Are you able to help point to where I could order it from? Thanks for your time!
__________________
Regards, David Secretary/Treasurer Southern Highlands Off Road R/C Car Club Inc. (NSW Australia) http://shorrcccinfo.wix.com/shorrccc www.facebook.com/SHORRCCC |
#76
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#77
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Bump steer is the amount of steering change the front wheel receives from suspension movements? is this what your asking? or are you saying your car is bad on bumpy tracks? Lee
__________________
Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! |
#78
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Hi Lee,
What is a good starting point for oil in front and rear gear diffs? I'll be racing on a med grip hard packed dirt track Thanks Craig |
#79
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Quote:
__________________
Regards, David Secretary/Treasurer Southern Highlands Off Road R/C Car Club Inc. (NSW Australia) http://shorrcccinfo.wix.com/shorrccc www.facebook.com/SHORRCCC |
#80
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Lee,
The front end is very hard to keep in a straightline on bumpy tracks, ive read your reveiw in on of the rc mags and seen you raise the front sterring arm's, ill fit the spacers and see if thats the answer. Thanks jK
__________________
DB01-R/RRR TRF 503 Carbon TRF 201XM,Fast Attack Vehicle.RC 10 Classic. Top Force Evo,Optima Mid, Mardave Cobra. |
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