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#341
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Hi Nick.
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If you liked the C-hub mod on the B4, you'll probably like it on the X-6 as well. It works the same way. Quote:
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If your stick packs are heavy (I use LRP packs, possibly the heaviest out there), you probably won't need to add weight. But if you do, under the ESC is a good place. Aim for between 64.5% and 65% rear weight, I think you'll be close to that already.
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#342
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Hi Nicholas, the set up guru himslef (Elvo) has already responded, so nothing I can really add there to help you, however, not sure where you had been used to looking, but the E-Speed rear hangers are in stock here in the UK and available to purchase through any of the X-Factory UK retialers if you want some. In my opinion they are a very useful set up essential, especially on our type of tracks, Ellis is rarely seen without them.....
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ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#343
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Elvo,
Many thanks for the great feedback, this is quite helpful. I will try to keep the lower "C" hub on the factory team rear aluminium carriers (although I'm not sure I visualize how it' sgoing to pan out with the instructions to reverse the hubs to keep the camber links straight across), as well as sand the bulkhead to lower the inner ballstud (saw a video from Paul Sinclair doing that). This should pretty much replicate the "shaved U Brace with C hub" B4.1 mod). Good to hear your comments on the T-saddle configuration. I will stick to... sticks for now, and maybe borrow some saddles to test. A few additional questions though, if you don't mind: 1. I'm currently using a GHEA 30g brass bulkhead with good success... makes sense keeping that in (instead of weight under the ESC? 2. I understand that all I need to convert my B4.1 FT worlds edition is B4 outdrives and their corresponding bearings; is that correct or are there other recommended parts to procure (sorry it's a bit off topic)? 3. I'm not sure I understand the actual change that the E Speed hanger brings - I suppose it is shortening the link, but in terms of position, is it higher or lower than standard (still wondering how that may work with regards to my shaved u-brace/c hub mod...). 4. I am using ae standard shocks with Silver (3.85) /Silver (2.1) AE springs - should I expect to have to change with the X6? 5. Opinions on sway bars? I don't run any at the moment, is it recommended or more a nice to have (remember I'm not running minipins, so grip is not massive). 6. Finally, would your "Petit Race 2010" setup be a good starting template, or did you squeeze some improvements since then? Thanks a lot |
#344
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#345
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> 4. I am using ae standard shocks with Silver (3.85) /Silver (2.1) AE springs - should I expect to have to change with the X6?
I'm no setup expert but that's all I used last year, at least give it a try.
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#346
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Great, thanks.
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#347
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Besides, AE did a good job on picking the right kind of plastic for the bulkhead. Quote:
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Note that Ellis often uses shaved down Racers Edge rear hubs, putting the ball stud 25.5mm above the hinge pin, which is exactly what AE's 'C' hubs are doing as well. Quote:
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#348
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Bruno,
You're awesome, I can't thank you enough. I'd offer you a Duvel, or Blue Chimay if I was closer |
#349
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Nicolas, did you get my email OK earlier with regards your order? Everything is in stock and ready to go for you, if you can just get in contact with the office on Monday to clarify your payment details, that would be great.....
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ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#350
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Will do.
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#351
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Well the first test was directly at a race, and was quite succesfull (ended 6th of B main out of 5 series overall - and I am a 1/8 buggy driver beginning in 1/10 2WD).
I did the shaved caster block mod, put e-speed hangers, dremelled the chassis for saddle packs and used Elvo's recommendations and mostly used one of his latest carpet setup. I didn't receive the racer's edge rear hubs in time to lower the rear link to a "C hub" level but that's for next time. The car was initially pushy on exit - note that tires were restricted to sub-optimal AKA rebar/impact so we didn't get yellow minipin grip levels, which probably explains the push (front tires not gripping enough). Changing the toe block to 3° solved the push, and the car was dialled (at least for my beginner's perception)! One question though: I have attempted to achieve a 65/35 weight distribution (@1700g) but didn't manage more than 64/36 short of putting more lead in rear pods, or left and right of the motor. Any thoughts? Should I load the rear some more? Note that I have put 2x25g of rudebits' brass under the saddles (didn't use the "under servo" piece as this made the weight distribution even worse). I also had some issues with the kyosho velvet shocks that I put in the rear - they are a tad shorter than AE's and ride heigth was difficult to get to 24mm, but in the end that worked out. Thanks! Nick |
#352
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64/36 is fine for indoors. And 1700g is a bit heavy, you might want to leave the brass under the lipo out.
On the Kyosho shocks, be sure to use the tall plastic top caps. And if they're still not long enough, losi or AE shock rod ends will stretch overall length even more.
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#353
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Great, thanks for the advice - I will remove the under lipo weight.
I had already ordered Kyosho "Long Big Bore Shock Ends" and will check the tall caps. How about shocks - I have loaded the Kyosho velvets (standard bore) with 500 and 350 cst oil and 3b pistons, and 12mm associated springs (3.75 front / 2.10 rear) - rear seemed a bit hard on the stand (but actually did not feel bad on the track)?
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MBX6 Eco - Kontronik Jive 80 LV - Neu 1515 3D XFactory X6 Squared - HPI Blitz ESE - XRay T4 |
#354
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3-B is my favourite piston in Kyosho SB shocks. And I run 3.5 front, 2.3 rear spring rates, so you're in the ballpark.
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#355
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Quick question what difference do soft, medium and hard inserts make?
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#356
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Wanted........!!!
As above
Latest X6 Squared indoor setup wanted............??? Which battery layouts, running either Losi or AE (V1) shocks for indoor carpet/polished floor surface !!! cheers
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AKA Dexter Ex Club Chairman Visit our Face Book Page for address and to book in https://www.facebook.com/groups/289589121226171/ http://www.neamotorsport.co.uk/ |
#357
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Difficult to give a complete setup that will just work. How's the car going at the moment? Some great comments above by Elvo on the different battery layouts.
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#358
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I finished with the following at the Broxtowe cracker. Came in third behind Craig Collinson and Eugene Galley
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#359
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Any set-ups for southport indoors ?
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#allhailthebbt 1/10th Off Road North West Regional Rep. |
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