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#41
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Update:
I have installed the bullet connectors to use the Vampire racing battery as well as installed the shiny MIP CVD's and the JConcepts front brace. Also installed some titanium screws for the battery hold down and the front bulkhead. What's left todo is paint the body and install velcro, and install TC5 rear hinge pins because the B4 ones are too small in diameter so the TC5 ones should fit the rear arms perfectly. Its too bad because the B4 ones I have were titanium. The car runs great, I haven't tried jumping it, but its smooth. 1. Question is what WT oil is best to start with? I think I have 35wt front and rear. 2. How do I keep the car from spinning out? Do I stand the rear shocks up or lay them down? 3. I read that many people said it has tons of steering, but I don't find that the case. I have KF2 front hubs and caster blocks. I hope to buy the Surpass 380 sensor motor Some pics for fun
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Team Associated RC18B Original Kyosho Ultima (rebuilding) Traxxas Mini Revo RC boats that put my cars to shame in speed! |
#42
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Are they making these again? Would love to build one
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Team Whiteknuckle-JM Tekno ET410 Futaba/JX/HW/JC TLR 5ive-Be 8s Futaba/JX/Poseidon rc/HW/JC |
#43
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I wish. I got the last kit from parts they had lying around.
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Team Associated RC18B Original Kyosho Ultima (rebuilding) Traxxas Mini Revo RC boats that put my cars to shame in speed! |
#44
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So I finally got around to working on the Chunk. I was having some issues with droop and it compressing all the way, turns out the arms needed some trimming for the diff outputs and CVs as it was hitting on compression and droop. I also flipped the rear hinge mount as per the instructions and added a 1mm spacer under the front rear hingepin to allow for more anti squat. The problem I was having is under breaking or deceleration the rear of the car would come loose and the car would spin out. I haven't tested it yet, but it definitely is much more smooth now and compresses much better.
I added threaded stand offs to mount the diff to allow for easier servicing. I wish there were holes drilled for the rear of the diff mount tabs to go through the chassis. I might add them later. Next I wanted to try the rocketrc 380 sensored motor, I need some wire so I didn't solder it up, but mocked it up. Looks like I have to ditch one of the battery mount posts to make it fit which sucks because I like my PHAT battery hold down and don't want to cut it. I might use another hold down I have. The motor has a lot of resistance when spinning the rotor by hand, must be some really strong magnets in there. Anyways here are some shots of it all put back together for testing until I get wire to try the rocketrc motor I changed the rear wing mounts to B6 mounts, they are slightly lower but only allow me to use the top holes in the shock tower because of the hole spacing difference from the Tamiya wing mounts. But I think it's fine. Time to test and play with shock oil and get some different spring rates to dial it in.
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Team Associated RC18B Original Kyosho Ultima (rebuilding) Traxxas Mini Revo RC boats that put my cars to shame in speed! |
#45
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Nice. I am also keen to try the Surpass 380 sometime...
Good to know about the B6 wing mounts too, were they a direct fit? It looks good to have the wing mounted a bit lower.
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Schumacher • Phat Bodies Mendip R/C Raceway - Offroad Racing in South-West WORM-Racing - GT12 Racing in the South-West |
#46
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The B6 mounts work fine, I think they had a small part that slides into the b6 shock tower I just trimmed off. The hole spacing on them is different so I just used one screw on each mount instead of the two. It worked good. I didn’t feel like drilling the nice carbon to make the second hole. It’s very secure though.
Let me know if you try out the motor. I want to try it but it is larger than what I currently have in there and will require some mods to the battery holder. It is a nice motor though.
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Team Associated RC18B Original Kyosho Ultima (rebuilding) Traxxas Mini Revo RC boats that put my cars to shame in speed! |
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