Mad Rat front wheel binding problem

[jpmatrix]

The reason it binds is that the plastic 12mm hex when tightened up really tight binds on the outer bearing.

You can stop this by getting some 400 grit sandpaper and sand the plastic hex on the pin side. That stops the binding on the bearing but then i noticed when i retightened it the wheel rim (hex part) was binding on the hub carrier. I just got a scalpal and cut the inner edge of the hex slot where the 12 mm plastic sits in.

Job done.

You can then tighten as hard as you can and it wont bind.

[OneKiwi]

Originally Posted by Cameo

Ok thanks. I agree the crush tubes are the best starting point to help solve the problem.

Now if you have 2 old wheel bearings you will be able to make some easily. The thing to do is cut the outter of the bearings away so your left with the inner part of the bearing case. It's the perfect size and goes directly between the two wheel bearings.

Something else you can try or do also is get the Alum hex set (link) they lock down over the pin and sit up against the bearing.

so it goes in the hub carrier inbetween the 2 bearings
like this?

l1l

or wer you meaning it goes inbetween the wheel and hex?

[Cameo]

Originally Posted by OneKiwi

so it goes in the hub carrier inbetween the 2 bearings
like this?

l1l

or wer you meaning it goes inbetween the wheel and hex?

yes in the hub between the 2 bearings.
Order should be; bearing - crush tube - bearing - shim - pin - hex hub - wheel - nut.

[Cameo]

Originally Posted by jpmatrix

The reason it binds is that the plastic 12mm hex when tightened up really tight binds on the outer bearing.

You can stop this by getting some 400 grit sandpaper and sand the plastic hex on the pin side. That stops the binding on the bearing but then i noticed when i retightened it the wheel rim (hex part) was binding on the hub carrier. I just got a scalpal and cut the inner edge of the hex slot where the 12 mm plastic sits in.

Job done.

You can then tighten as hard as you can and it wont bind.

I would have thought this makes things worse becoause the little bit that you're sanding off is supposed to act as a spacer.

It's the same size as the inner of the bearing (the part that spins) so its designed to reduce friction.

However if there's too much there then I suppose it could/would bind. Maybe the solution is to take off some but not all?

[damselfly]

Ok, one of my vehicles using 5x11x4 mm bearings needed a bearing change, so I decided to take the inners out of the old ones and salvage some " crush tubes ". One bang with an hammer on the bearing while stood upright allowed me to get these out without any deformation. They are a perfect fit diameter wise, but they're about 1.5-2mm too long and will not allow both bearings to fit in the hub carrier simultaneously.
I will buy some bearings with a 2mm and 3mm width in the hope that I can make some that fit.
To date though, my venture continues.

[Cameo]

Originally Posted by damselfly

Ok, one of my vehicles using 5x11x4 mm bearings needed a bearing change, so I decided to take the inners out of the old ones and salvage some " crush tubes ". One bang with an hammer on the bearing while stood upright allowed me to get these out without any deformation. They are a perfect fit diameter wise, but they're about 1.5-2mm too long and will not allow both bearings to fit in the hub carrier simultaneously.
I will buy some bearings with a 2mm and 3mm width in the hope that I can make some that fit.
To date though, my venture continues.

Get a file and just file them down a little.
Glad we've almost sorted your problem

[damselfly]

I've not got a file or vice Cameo, so i'll just buy a few cheap bearings. Anything around 5x"x3 or 5x"x2 will fit admirably.
The " dimension is unimportant as that's the outside diameter of the bearing which gets disposed of.
I'll keep you in the loop re' my progress.

[Cameo]

Originally Posted by damselfly

I've not got a file or vice Cameo, so i'll just buy a few cheap bearings. Anything around 5x"x3 or 5x"x2 will fit admirably.
The " dimension is unimportant as that's the outside diameter of the bearing which gets disposed of.
I'll keep you in the loop re' my progress.

remember in needs to fit snug.
The idea is that when you tighten the wheel the inner part of the bearing does not flex or cave in.
Currently when you tighten it the bearings are changing alignment bowing in )( you need them to stay perfect II. The crush tube keeps them from "crushing in"

[nikos2002]

The aluminum hexes listed above will help to solve the problem, I would still recommend a washer between the pin and bearing for some extra support. A crush sleeve helps as well - but with alum hexes you can properly tighten the nut.

[damselfly]

Thanks Guys for the plethora of helpful replies.
I've sourced some 5x8x2.5 bearings which should make for perfect crush tubes in this application.
Gonna get myself some. Also gonna get myself some Aluminium hex's.
Will update this thread when i'm done with testing.

[wrcallar]

Where did you get the bearings from in the end.... and you never updated your thread!!!! lol. Did it also work? Only my front left wheel seems to bind but it looks like its binding on the carrier.

[lordnikon]

Had this with the monkey too, same system so no surprise. I just got some 12mm hex fitments that clamp around the drive pin. When you tighten the wheel then you are tightening onto the hex and not the bearings. 100% fine now. Can get pics if needs be.