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#21
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Hi Andys
It may be you should tried to swap, the Steering Rack around if it is possible .... Just food for thought
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Team KBracing Konrad Berger Denmark Push the limits of PERFORMANCE with Team KBRacing MCD W5XL RN Tuning / R1 29ccm. Nano-tech Lipos. ST. JX servo. TH. JX servo. Sanwa MT-44 Radio. |
#22
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Bump steer
Andy I have checked mine and I have no bump steer issues. Mine is built kit apart from front brass pivot block.
Can you do a wee video? Dave
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Team Associated Hobbywing SRT Reedy My feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63097 |
#23
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Uploaded a video to my Dropbox - this is with the car pretty much kit (apart from the camber link moved out for the long VLA) - removing the 2mm washer on the steering end helps a little as this lowers the outside steering link - but that's as much as I can do?
Any thoughts? Steering assembly is as per kit - all checked etc. CLICK the link below to see the video. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15062770/losi.mp4 |
#24
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That video has an error Andy.
Can you send it to my email? I'll pm you it.
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Team Associated Hobbywing SRT Reedy My feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63097 |
#25
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Video working now - it was still uploading when I posted initially
Link again: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15062770/losi.mp4 |
#26
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Great video Andy, I can't help with your issue, but I now know a lot more about bump steer
*Just checked my YZ-2 and your right, little bit of positive bump steer Last edited by Neil_H; 27-02-2016 at 02:52 PM. |
#27
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Yes very good video Andy, take heart that it doesn't happen on all Losi cars. Just checked my Jrx Pro which I was working on and it has a small amount of positive bump steer.
Would be nice to hear a Team Driver comment.
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#28
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Just had a look at my KF - it stays pretty much straight throughout all travel - which seems correct - as one could add or remove washers to add a little positive or negative bump steer as at least you are starting from zero
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#29
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Quote:
I wish I could help you with your issue Andy but all I can do is thank you for uploading that video as you've clarified my understanding of bump steer completely. |
#30
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You mention the car has the long VLA - have you tried going back to the kit VLA and seeing if the problem is the same.
I remember on my cr2 having bump steer issues that was to do with the vla and looking at where everything pivots in your video makes me think it's to do with the hub pins affecting the steering turnbuckle link in some way so that it pulls in when under compression which is giving the bump out
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Luniemiester drives: AE B6.1 AE B6.1d AE B74 AE T6.1 AE SC6.1 Kits and parts supplied by: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/[/size] My Feedback thread: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...945#post691945 |
#31
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Also have you double checked you've got the spindles on the right sides of the car as can't really see in the video with wheels fitted
Take a picture with wheels off if you can from top and side of possible
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Luniemiester drives: AE B6.1 AE B6.1d AE B74 AE T6.1 AE SC6.1 Kits and parts supplied by: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/[/size] My Feedback thread: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...945#post691945 |
#32
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Checked again re front spindles and hubs - it's all correct on my car - in fact I don't think it's possible to build it wrong as the steering would not work or would bind / catch other parts - the spindles sit flush and locate up against the hubs at full lock - the are designed to only work 1 way around.
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#33
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When my car is sat level - with a low ride height (18 or 19mm) the front steering arms have the outer ball stud higher than the inner - so the steering links are both angled slightly making a 'v' shape as you look from the front.
Is this the same on other peoples cars - the outer ends of the steering link higher than inner? |
#34
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Looks like your getting positive camber when the suspension moves upward. Try lengthing the upper rod. Move the chassis ballstud to the inward hole and the caster block ballstud to the outermost. That will give less camber gain. Try this first. If it doesn't work try lowering the inner ball stud. Less spacers or none, and or add to the outer ballstud. That will allow the top of the tire to pull in under suspension travel. Some pics of the suspension with the body off and tire off may help as well.
Bob
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#35
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Make your camber link longer than your steering link for more steering I am running long vla and 1/b with 2mm under ball studs 27.5 oil and silver front Spring inside on tower and middle on arm brass kick 25 plate
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#36
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Great thread. I checked my car and it had the same problem but not as pronounced so i removed the washers and the steering is now neutral throughout the range... Or at least it looks that way. I am also on long VLA.
Maybe you can post on rctech. I'm very interested to hear what Frank Root has to say. Surely he'll have a solution. |
#37
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Me and the guys I know at our club all removed the bump 2mm steer washers as our track is indoor, pretty flat with old carpet/slippy floor.
Steering is now neutral throughout the range also, to the naked eye.
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#38
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Switching the L/R steering spindles to get the "low" setting could also be worth a try. For now, I removed the bump steer spacers and put both spindle/hub carrier spacers to the top and the car feels good on the bench. Today it is too windy outside and the forecast says there'll be rain from noon, but I hope to return to the track next weekend.
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#39
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Or you could just remove the bottom washer on the spindle and put it on top? That should lower it maybe 1mm?
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#40
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That's what I did, and it should help. Turning around the spindles seems to be another option to adjust bump steer, which I have yet to try.
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