Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[crusader]

Hello there!

I am looking for ways to improve my BALDREs ground clearance.
Possible solutions would be:

1. Longer shocks (besides the Aeration). What is the standard size of the shocks?

2. Larger wheels (taller) of tires (2.2 biffier tires). I have installed the hex washer, so i have no limitation to
wheel type.

3. ??? Suggestions?

[DCM]

why would you want to do that??

if you put longer shocks on, you will pop driveshafts out.

[Spoolio]

1. Put sufficient pre-load collars onto the shocks (or wind down the spring collars on threaded shocks) to cut out all the sag. This will then give you the maximum ride height out of whatever shocks you are running.

2. Alternatively put stiffer springs on.

However, as DCM says if you run maximum droop you'll probably have issues with the driveshafts and both the methods above will mess up the handling too. Bigger wheels will ruin the gearing and may give clearance problems with the steering too.

Again, as DCM says: Why? Remember, the Baldre/Durga is essentially a race car rather than a basher (although it can certainly do that too as long as you bear in mind it's limitations, like umm, ground clearance).

[Spihc]

Anyone that has fit the high traction arms? Are they worth the upgrade? (Part numbers 54142 and 54141)

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by Spihc

Anyone that has fit the high traction arms? Are they worth the upgrade? (Part numbers 54142 and 54141)

I have been racing my DB-01 with the high traction arms since they were released. They are excellent and provide a tiny bit more ground clearance than the stock arms..

Tamiya comments that they are supposed to be weaker than the stock arms, but I have not had any breakage problems at all.

Dan

[DCM]

I didn't even know that these had been released... are they the 511 wishbones?

[Spihc]

Thank you! Have the Front arms on its way home since I damaged one of the front arms damper holes in a crash.

Another question if you dont mind.

Will replace my rear diff halves with 501x once, and at the same time replace 10 diff balls with ceramic once, what grease is recomended? I only have the following avaible.

Tamiya molybdenum grease
Tamiya ball diff grease
Tamiya AW crease
AE Green slime

Any suggestions?

[DCM]

use the Tamiya Ball diff grease on the diff plates, and the molybdenum stuff on the thrust race.

[crusader]

Originally Posted by DCM

why would you want to do that??

if you put longer shocks on, you will pop driveshafts out.

Been running CVDs, so this will not be a problem as long as the shocks are
not too long.
The problem appeared when i installed the T-Bone bumpers (excellent protection). The bumpers attach under the chassis and add a few mm thus reducing GC.

By the way, i will be testing the Aluminum Wheel Washer Set with
DF-03 wheels this weekend and report back on Sunday...

[cjm_2008]

I put the rear wing on and mounted the tyres last night



now i've just got to find the time to race it. only took me five months to build

[peetbee]

About time Craig!
I now have a DB01 as well, raced it for the first time at the Talywain national.
Went very well, despite me having to convert DCM's setup advice into something that my Losi shocks were compatible with

[DCM]

and it went bloody well too... once you pumped your balls up, lol

[cjm_2008]

Originally Posted by peetbee

About time Craig!
I now have a DB01 as well, raced it for the first time at the Talywain national.
Went very well, despite me having to convert DCM's setup advice into something that my Losi shocks were compatible with

it's nuts how far tamiya buggies have come since my madcap

the last tamiya buggy I ever built was a super astute in 92. I've still got it in bits. doubt i'll ever properly resurrect it though.

yours looks the business, especially with the losi shocks and kickass paintjob

the original durga shell is a joke though - as DCM has already pointed out, the chassis protection is minimal, and the baldre is actually a prettier shell IMO.

[DCM]

I have contacted Kamtec over this..... shell issue

[aittam]

Went back to the track today. I was not able to jump both double and triple in a row: i had to drive over the double and then safetly jump the triple.
It was not the car, it was not a lack of power, it was just me driving like a ##@@§§!

...anyway...

I used a Mamba Max 5700kv with stock spur gear and 17teeth pinion gear and Yeah Racing 5000mah 25C 7.4v lipo. Tightened up the diffs, set the slippery clutch to 4mm in. 40wt oil front and rear and and red dot springs.

After 7minutes of racing the motor was 75°C and the esc 65°C.
After 25minutes of racing the motor was 91°C and the esc 75°C.
Is it too much?

Broke the rear wing and the rear shock tower. Luckly someone had a spare rear shock tower to lend me.
I have the Atomic Carbon front and rear shock tower on order.

Is there any alternative to the stock rear wing? It is very fragile...

I should definitely try the 4600kv mamba.

Mattia.

[crusader]

Originally Posted by aittam

Went back to the track today. I was not able to jump both double and triple in a row: i had to drive over the double and then safetly jump the triple.
It was not the car, it was not a lack of power, it was just me driving like a ##@@§§!

...anyway...

I used a Mamba Max 5700kv with stock spur gear and 17teeth pinion gear and Yeah Racing 5000mah 25C 7.4v lipo. Tightened up the diffs, set the slippery clutch to 4mm in. 40wt oil front and rear and and red dot springs.

After 7minutes of racing the motor was 75°C and the 65°C.
After 25minutes of racing the motor was 91°C and the 75°C.
Is it too much?

Is there any alternative to the stock rear wing? It is very fragile...

I should definitely try the 4600kv mamba.

Mattia.

Mattia,

I have the EzRun 8.5T 4000kv motor using the 23T pinion.I reach 78°C after a 25mins ride bashing.
I believe that 5700kv is too much especially on track with small straights and lots of jumps.

Rear wings should be treated as consumables. They essentially provide protection for the chassis and internals.
I have already broken one and replaced it with a DF03 wing for 10Euro. A lot of drivers don't even bother
painting them.
The rear wings on the DB01 has a tendency to push on the rear shock tower and transfer impact force.
I prefer them to be flexible than being rigid so they absorb.
It is nice to have one spare, but i really can't understand its use, we are notlike doing 120kmh on an
autobahn!!!

[Edited] DCM (next msg), has a point on the jumping attitude. Rear wing helps balancing when jumping adding
conciderable rear downward drag!

[DCM]

the rear wing helps with jumping attitude and, a little rear grip in the faster corners, they aren't 'wings' as such, more air spoilers.

I have always found, also, that you need to run the rear, 5wt less on the oil, than the front, I assume you are having the rear kicking up going hard over the jumps.

[cjm_2008]

I couldn't help myself - I had to give my db-01 a run in the lane out back.



superb! very 'controlled' with the associated shocks. i'm sure i'll get bored with the 10.5 eventually, but there's plenty of poke on offer too.

no horrible screeching noises yet either. can't wait to get it onto a track

[DCM]

when you debuting the beast dude?

[cjm_2008]

Originally Posted by DCM

when you debuting the beast dude?

no idea. I was thinking of caldicot on friday. but with kart practice all day sat, I don't think the missus would appreciate it.

it's a shame I fell out so dramatically with , i'd like to get some grass action in sometime...