Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[B44&501xRacerEX]

I agree AJ Gee, I started with a DF03 and didnt like it that much, it was just
a learning curve for me. I raced it for 2 seasons until the B44 came out.
Then I was so pleased with the B44 handling, I jumped and got the big boy
tamiya 501x WCE car. Then shortly after I ordered that the durga came out
and I felt that I should have went for the durga before the 501x.
But that's ok, most people went for the durga because you can run stick lipos
with it, kinda like the first BJ4's were.
By the way the price of the 501x has dropped big time, maybe tamiya is just overstocked? Or are they discontinuing the 501x?

[lochness42]

Haven't you noticed that newest car from tamiya is 511X?

edited: just to support my words
I've seen car personally in Wien on race http://www.redrc.net/2009/02/honigl-...winter-champs/
ToyFair http://www.redrc.net/2009/02/toy-fair-2009-tamiya-2/

[General Accident]

Originally Posted by A.J. Gee

Whats the deal with Tamiya releasing an abundance of the DF03 RA kits? I mean are they really that good? It seems to me that the differences between the original DF03 and the rally ones are so slight, that it seems quite rediculous to be releasing these kits left and right. What exactly is the demand for this kit anyways? I am hopefully wishing that Tamiya will step up their game and come out with something that interests me. I know it sound's quite selfish but i'm only speaking the truth. LOL

, wassat got to do with this thread then?

[stampede vxlboy]

is there a buggy forsale or not buggy . i need a buggy to race with thanks

[stampede vxlboy]

how much are they .or is it for sale?

[aittam]

Hello,

i'm still having problems gearing the Mamba Max 5700kv for the DB01.

2 weeks ago (midday, 32°C) with 17pinion and 91spur gear:
- after 7minutes of racing the motor was 75°C and the esc 65°C
- after 25minutes of racing the motor was 91°C and the esc 75°C.

Yesterday night (10pm, 23°C):
- with 16pinion and 91spur gear:
after 10minutes of racing the motor was 64°C and the esc 52°C;
after 20minutes of racing the motor was 81°C and the esc 62°C.
- with 15pinion and 91spur gear:
after 10minutes of racing the motor was 80°C and the esc 51°C;
after 20minutes of racing the motor was 81°C and the esc 53°C.

I cannot make the motor run cooler than this.

Do you have any idea what else can i try? Should i try a bigger pinion? Or a smaller one?
If i try a smaller pinion i might run it too undergeared.

I'm worried that even if I stay with the 15 or 16 pinion and go racing on a hot day, i will get much higher temps.

Thanks.
Mattia.

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by aittam

Hello,

i'm still having problems gearing the Mamba Max 5700kv for the DB01.

2 weeks ago (midday, 32°C) with 17pinion and 91spur gear:
- after 7minutes of racing the motor was 75°C and the esc 65°C
- after 25minutes of racing the motor was 91°C and the esc 75°C.

Yesterday night (10pm, 23°C):
- with 16pinion and 91spur gear:
after 10minutes of racing the motor was 64°C and the esc 52°C;
after 20minutes of racing the motor was 81°C and the esc 62°C.
- with 15pinion and 91spur gear:
after 10minutes of racing the motor was 80°C and the esc 51°C;
after 20minutes of racing the motor was 81°C and the esc 53°C.

I cannot make the motor run cooler than this.

Do you have any idea what else can i try? Should i try a bigger pinion? Or a smaller one?
If i try a smaller pinion i might run it too undergeared.

I'm worried that even if I stay with the 15 or 16 pinion and go racing on a hot day, i will get much higher temps.

Thanks.
Mattia.

Mattia,

The closest you are getting to the breaking point of to motor is 91°C after 25min of constant running (93°C is the breaking point).

Most racers do not run their cars on an offroad track for 20+ min straight. That much constant run-time will heat up any motor; even if the gearing is good.

It is best to keep your practice runs at 10-15min and then take your car off to cool down for a bit.


You may be able to improve the cooling by cutting the vents on the Durga body and/or switching to the carbon reinforced chassis with the heatsink plate and the hop-up motor mount. I have done both and the cooling improved quite a bit.

The last possible thing I can think of is to upgrade to a high end ceramic nitride bearing kit (like the one from BOCA). The Durga will gain a slight edge in top speed and will have less friction to work against. It would make only a minor impact on heat at best, but it is nice to have.

Hope this helps.

Dan

[antnee]

Has anyone had a problem with their servo not sitting right?

I re-built mine yesterday after sitting doing nothing for a year, and found the servo was sitting so it was high at the front so the linkage was catching on the tunnel under the belt! I did a quick fix of taping a spare servo horn under the servo at the back. But I can't think why its dropping like this

[cjm_2008]

i'm fairly pleased with my db01 - it went pretty well, although I had 3 dnfs....

twice the 3racing CVD's I had fitted threw their pins - they went in the bin - crap! the original dog bones are now on - and in the final, a heavy front impact popped the wishbone hinge pin out of the holders. better than a broken wishbone I suppose, but still a PITA!

apart from that, the car handled the 6.5 perfectly, which was my main concern. maybe I had the slipper set a little too slippy as a precaution against all the diff melty horror stories...

[DCM]

the 3Racing ones will wear, but you have to rebuild, lube and loctite them, and they will last, dude.

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by General Accident

, wassat got to do with this thread then?

Wassat? what?, Don't be getting all gangster with me sir. I will not accept it nor will i tolerate it in any way, shape, or form!!! Nah J/k with ya dog, you know how it be being. Ok, now back to your question. Why did i post my comment about the DF03 RA in the DB01 section, well simply because i felt like it. Is that ok with you? Well if so then you are free to carry on. I hope Mr. Jimmy Oople isn't upset with me. He's king of this domain mang.

[mog ruith]

guys does anyone have the part no. to build a new diff??
preferably a 501x diff and is it better for me to just build a new diff which is troublsome or just get myself a front one way??

[shanks]

Diffwhen i run a diffi in my 501 i use a durga diff and have never blown oneas for the rear diff there is a lot of bull talked about what to dothe answer is simpleuse 501 outdrivesuse 10 ceramic balls2 steel balls 1 at 12 o clock and the other at 6 o clock ( this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth)use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build upuse tamiya anti wear grease in thrust race.then cover sides if diff with a sticker or die cut coversi ran half an outdoor season without a rebuild like this and only rebuilt then because i am anal about prepi have never blown a tamiya diff building this wayps this technique came from a trf works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!

[shanks]

51286 - TRF501X Diff ..halves

JAAD JDRDB301 Black Ceramic Diff balls 3mm (12)

[shanks]

personnaly i like the one way in the durga though...

54051 DB01 Aluminum Center One-Way Pulley (18T)

[sosidge]

Originally Posted by shanks

Diffwhen i run a diffi in my 501 i use a durga diff and have never blown oneas for the rear diff there is a lot of bull talked about what to dothe answer is simpleuse 501 outdrivesuse 10 ceramic balls2 steel balls 1 at 12 o clock and the other at 6 o clock ( this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth)use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build upuse tamiya anti wear grease in thrust race.then cover sides if diff with a sticker or die cut coversi ran half an outdoor season without a rebuild like this and only rebuilt then because i am anal about prepi have never blown a tamiya diff building this wayps this technique came from a trf works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!

Heard it direct? Or copy and paste from this post - http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...44&postcount=4

[mog ruith]

Originally Posted by shanks

personnaly i like the one way in the durga though...

54051 DB01 Aluminum Center One-Way Pulley (18T)

how is a center 1 way related to building a new diffs?

[aittam]

Hello again.

I've been playing around with the timing settings of the Mamba 5700 motor, trying to figure out how to reduce the temperature.

Yesterday night (10pm, 27°C):
- with 15pinion and 91spur gear (FDR 12,44), timing set to Lowest(0):
after 10minutes of racing the motor was 75°C and the esc 57°C;
after 20minutes of racing the motor was 91°C and the esc 64°C.

Now I'm stuck. I don't know what else to do.
Any idea?

I've found another post of guy having the same overheating problem, he contacted Castle Creations support and they replied that the Mamba motors can stand up to 250F/300F. Could it be possible?

Thanks.
Mattia.

[mog ruith]

does the 511x front wing that is mounted on the front shock tower
fits a durga?

[General Accident]

Originally Posted by sosidge

Heard it direct? Or copy and paste from this post - http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...44&postcount=4

nicely spotted Sosidge. Shanks mate, it's a shame you weren't as "anal" with the punctuation as you are with your car prep. Them dots what get stuck in between words is what is called "full stops" boss, and the resultant chunks of words is what we is calling "sentences" (or at least they were when I were a lad, I accept they probably teach differently these days ).