Yokomo YZ-2 - Page 15

skyaflake · #**281** 27-01-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by alport

-There is a small piece on the body lexan sheet, it's behind the body cutting lines and has it's own cutting lines. It looks like a front wing but I can not be sure because I didn't saw any yz-2 with front wing . What is this part ?
- There are two cutting lines on the rear end of the body. which one should I use ?

Cutting lines are there for when you run your shocks (and tower) in rear or in front. It's up to you.

alport · #**282** 27-01-2015

Are alu idler gears a must have upgrade ? my previous car (b-max2 ) had alu idlers

neallewis · #**283** 27-01-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by alport

Are alu idler gears a must have upgrade ? my previous car (b-max2 ) had alu idlers

The idler gears on the YZ-2 are bigger than the bmax2, so the existing alloy ones don't fit, and at the moment there are no alloy ones available.
Given the layshaft is made of the hardened alloy similar to the bmax2 idlers, I'd suggest that running plastic idlers was a better solution.

The reason the original bmax2 plastic idlers went was due to gearbox casing flex, which was fixed in a later revision of the gearbox moulding. Also due to excessive wear in the layshaft bearing if not checked regularly.

At the moment the YZ-2 looks to be far better in this area.

Adam F · #**284** 27-01-2015

Anyone noticed any issues with slipper bed-in?

Ran mine for the second time on high grip astro, and had to back the slipper off three turns and still randomly flipping itself from time to time.

Haven't had a chance to check if the plates have worn or are not quite flat etc, but its been acting very odd compared to last week on the same surface with no setup/electrical changes...

Cleaned everything before assembling, so don't think its contamination...

Danny Harrison · #**285** 27-01-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adam F

Anyone noticed any issues with slipper bed-in?

Ran mine for the second time on high grip astro, and had to back the slipper off three turns and still randomly flipping itself from time to time.

Haven't had a chance to check if the plates have worn or are not quite flat etc, but its been acting very odd compared to last week on the same surface with no setup/electrical changes...

Cleaned everything before assembling, so don't think its contamination...

I noticed the pads had quite a polished finish on 1 side. I sanded them a little and its perfect. I think if that polished side is against the slipper plate, that is likely your issue.

I ran the car at worksop and was only a second a lap down on my 4wd. I havnt raced 2wd much, so I can say without doubt the car is outstanding. Had a grin throughout every heat and final.

Adam F · #**286** 27-01-2015

Must admit, I didn't compare them, just cleaned and dropped them in.

Was perfect first time out, but guess they may have glazed up, will have a look.. Ta

alport · #**287** 28-01-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by neallewis

The idler gears on the YZ-2 are bigger than the bmax2, so the existing alloy ones don't fit, and at the moment there are no alloy ones available.
Given the layshaft is made of the hardened alloy similar to the bmax2 idlers, I'd suggest that running plastic idlers was a better solution.

The reason the original bmax2 plastic idlers went was due to gearbox casing flex, which was fixed in a later revision of the gearbox moulding. Also due to excessive wear in the layshaft bearing if not checked regularly.

At the moment the YZ-2 looks to be far better in this area.

Thanks for the explanation

alport · #**288** 28-01-2015

What is this setup in the red circle ?

skyaflake · #**289** 28-01-2015

Shim under or above the steering block.

Danny Harrison · #**290** 28-01-2015

Position of the hub up or down. I think this signifies up.

alport · #**291** 30-01-2015

Ok, but do you put any shims between c-hub ans steering hub? I did not use any on the assembly as the manual don't show any shim on that place.

neallewis · #**292** 30-01-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by alport

Ok, but do you put any shims between c-hub ans steering hub? I did not use any on the assembly as the manual don't show any shim on that place.

Top hat washers are different sizes.

ralphee · #**293** 07-02-2015

Quick one, anybody know where to get chassis skins from for this one?

Lee

Paultje040 · #**294** 07-02-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by ralphee

Quick one, anybody know where to get chassis skins from for this one?

Lee

I would go for the Jconcepts uncut sheet. they last a full season.
i have tried the Yokomo one on a Bmax2 but its very thin.

LINK

mes · #**295** 07-02-2015

I am a big fan of the epic1Designs chassis armor that was included in my Firebolt DM kit. Speaking of which, I have to order one for my (delivery pending) YZ-2...

Chris Elworthy · #**296** 07-02-2015

On a completely different note does anybody know if Kyosho 12mm rear and front wheels will fit the YZ-2?

dibble34 · #**297** 07-02-2015

Seem fine on mine, havent measured but width looks the same with k wheels on

tomtom · #**298** 07-02-2015

Seemed fine, the K rear wheels decrease the track width by 1mm each, should be ok.

ralphee · #**299** 08-02-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paultje040

I would go for the Jconcepts uncut sheet. they last a full season.
i have tried the Yokomo one on a Bmax2 but its very thin.

LINK

Thanks buddy, i did use the AE sheet, great stuff, sadly had to rip if off after one meet as i had some changes to make, and no screw holes lol, ill cut another, really tough stuff though, just fancied one of those cut ones with the holes in!

lee

mes · #**300** 08-02-2015

This is why I love the e1D stuff, you can peel it off an reattach it as often as you like!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvje3VPA84A