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#21
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Nice to see a rear mounted gearbox car
Mine didn't arrive wasn't shipped to my LHS won't be here until next tuesday !
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Stevie Brew BW-RACING@HOTMAIL.COM http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#22
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Hi mate, no the battery brace is the correct way around for Mid motor according to the manual.
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#23
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Quote:
If you're running the Xcelorin 96mm lipo, you can turn it back round (a la rear config) and it'll hold the front of the battery and stop it from moving from side to side - not that it can move very far - especially with 2 dirty great velcro straps holding the poor little bugger down :-) Looks like D20MCK's rear config car has the forward tray round the wrong way though? Looking good though Birdy and D20MCK. Tidy paint job on CJ's (Delves) shell - no one can wonder there eh Last edited by Gnarly Old Dog; 18-03-2011 at 09:32 PM. Reason: wrong owner of first car - duh |
#24
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that ally chassis will be bent in two if your esc blows on you again lol
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#25
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As Gnarley said lol , he beat me to it . All good
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Bmcc . |
#26
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Quote:
You have to remove the battery brace. I tried mounting it on the plate above the motor, but the shell doesn't fit properly. |
#27
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I managed to get mine in with 2 power capacitors and the battery brace still in place. It does need a low profile servo but can be done.
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#28
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Yeah I think ESC forward is the way. I have the stubby LiPo and will probably get a low profile servo, should be a doddle.
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#29
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Quote:
Seriously, the mid car is tight for install space - but there are options that have already crossed my mind - most of which involve fabricating some form of small shelf to sit either the ESC or most likely the Rx above the battery. Having said all that, we did manage to fit all the electronics on the chassis plate during testing so it can be done - Kit's install looks pretty good. |
#30
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Quick question guys regarding the diff. When looking from the rear of the car what side should the diff adjusting screw be on? I've built it how it says in the manual but this step was a little unclear (drawing). Anyway it works out that my diff screw is on the RHS where as on my X6 which has the same motor/gearbox config the adjustment is made on the LHS. Just want to make sure before I bolt the gearbox in, don't want the diff undoing itself.
Cheers chaps. |
#31
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Quote:
yep, I'm running a normal servo and it makes everything a bit tight. |
#32
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Theres a lot of talk in this thread and not a lot of pics
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#33
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Quote:
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#34
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Hi all
All ive done to mine is build it going to take my time getting everything together need new lipo's and tyres and getting shell painted etc. But here it is as a roller.. Only thing i found frustrating about the build was the front hub assembly the screws where tight and the spacers where just annoying! But the shocks! O my god old losi shocks where good but these are in a world of there own! so easy to bleed and build to!! Very impressed with my 22.. 22 the losi that was supposidly not coming : ) I stayed faithful! A
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Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves! |
#35
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Oh, don't cut the motor side of the shell until you fit it, as its not always neccessary to cut it to the lines.
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#36
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Was thinking the same thing Tel , even on the box it looks like there was no need to cut it back so far, will look even cooler not cut
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Bmcc . |
#37
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Just a few pic's. need to get the rattle cans out and glue some tyres
There's a Tekin RS in there......honest
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I live with fear everyday....sometimes she lets me race!!!! Schumacher F1..The original KF. TLR 5.0 AC .. FORSALE |
#38
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Here's my contribution - even with the low profile servo it was a bit too tight to fit my receiver and Speed Passion GT2 esc up front, so I mounted the receiver at the rear.
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www.wbmcc.com |
#39
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Here's mine, Novak GTB and Futaba R603FS, so not exactly the smallest electronics. I put the GTB up high on the plate at the back, the Futaba receiver just fit between the battery support and the full size servo. Fitting everything to the chassis wasn't too bad, but the body is such a close fit around the back it just touches the ESC heat sink and is hard against the capacitor. There's also very little space for making the connections to the motor, it may have been better if I'd run the wires out the bottom of the speedo.
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#40
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Have you tried it with the shell on to?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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