Cyber 10B

[telboy]

They look like associated to me.

Still not built mine yet!!
Had it a week and its still boxed.

[streetfreak]

Yup There Associated B44 Shocks front and rear.Got my D4 Rear CVD's on today sweet no more flying Dogbone.

[streetfreak]

Buggy Handles awsome and is much more contrllable then my b44 used to be ,I'm very pleased w/ the overall performance.I have not yet put a slipper clutch in yet but when hpi releases it in June i will pick 1 up.Again Great Performing car Thumbs up to Hpi.

[leinad]

Had some time to take a few snapshots...

Forgive me ignorance , are the front wheels (IMG_0004.JPG) pointing too much inwards?

[pgeldz]

Originally Posted by streetfreak

I have not yet put a slipper clutch in yet but when hpi releases it in June i will pick 1 up.

I thought the D4 Slipper will fit, no?

- Paulie

[Adam Skelding]

Originally Posted by leinad

Had some time to take a few snapshots...

Forgive me ignorance , are the front wheels (IMG_0004.JPG) pointing too much inwards?

Hi,
From the photo's it does look like they are a little 'inwards'.
It is really hard to spot from a photo as the lens performs all sorts of illusions.

Take the tyres off and just set it with only the wheels on, this takes away the wobbly tyre factor.

Adjust both sides at the same time. Measure with a vernier if pssoible to make sure the left and right steering turnbuckles are the same length at all times.

I'll measure mine when I get home tonight and tell you the length.

[leinad]

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding

...

I'll measure mine when I get home tonight and tell you the length.

Thanks Adam, you're da best

Btw, do measure only the steering turnbuckles and not something else...

[leinad]

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding

...

Adjust both sides at the same time. Measure with a vernier if pssoible to make sure the left and right steering turnbuckles are the same length at all times.

....

Hi Adam,

I went through the user manual again and found my mistake

Re-measured and now they look 'normal'

Do you have any recommendations for turnbuckles and rodends?

[scrawl]

Well, I ended up purchasing the Cyber 10b. Been patiently waiting for a 4wd that takes stick packs and comes in a Kit.

I'm part way through the build. The only real surprise so far is no bearings were provided for the diffs. Bushings instead. Some of the center-shaft outdrives are plastic, but that could be a non-issue.

Something very minor - it would have been nice if the manual said the 0.2mm shims were silver and the 0.1mm shims were copper. Quite challenging to work this out yourself at 11pm at night under a fluro light.

Other than that, quality of the parts appear excellent. The plastics have a nice tactile feel and are well moulded. Would strongly suggest using proper hex drivers to make the building experience more enjoyable. Using an Allen key will lead to pain

I was lucky enough to find a second-hand D4 that came with enough parts to fully outfit the Cyber 10b. D4 shocks, WCE slipper, rear CVDs, etc. Eyeballing, everything looks like it will fit except for the center shaft CVDs. Will be able to confirm later this evening.

Here's a question - in the manual it indicates to add diff lube to the ends of all the dogbones. Does anyone do this in practise? My experience is it collects dirt and causes more damage.

Wondering if I should also diff lube the gearbox gears as per the manual. I've never done this to my 2wd Losi but not 100% sure if this is something unique to the HPI plastic gears.

[streetfreak]

Hey Their is a seperate package w/ an orange paper in it this package has the steel outdrives in it you are looking for..also use the the lube that comes with the red cap it has grey lube in it hope this helps?

[leinad]

Originally Posted by scrawl

... Would strongly suggest using proper hex drivers to make the building experience more enjoyable. Using an Allen key will lead to pain

...

I totally agree with you. Being totally new to this, I never knew what was coming till I started to lose feeling from my thumb and index finger

[scrawl]

Originally Posted by scrawl

Here's a question - in the manual it indicates to add diff lube to the ends of all the dogbones. Does anyone do this in practise? My experience is it collects dirt and causes more damage.

My mistake - I meant to say grease. Regardless, wouldn't greasing up the dogbones and CVDs just end up caking the dogbone with dirt and grime?

[Adam Skelding]

Hi Scrawl,

I'll try to go through your points 1 by 1.

Pg 13 of the manual shows the part numbers for the shims and the parts list at the back pg 40. Has the colours.
It does look like a slight omission on our part. Duly noted, the instruction guy will be shot

Greasing.
I do put a very small amount of lube on the dogbone end. I use the back grease from the kit or the DIP grease with the orange cap.
The DIP grease with the orange cap is awesome for the gears also. As it the HUDY graphite grease: http://www.mirageracing.com/piw.php?partNo=DY106210

The kit diff lube on the gears will be OK, but a little stiff (i.e. not free to rotate). The black/grey in the kit would be better.

The CVD end I always make sure it is well greased with associated black grease. Wipe off the excess and your good to go.
A well greased CVD that attracts a little dirt is much better than a dry one which over heats

Originally Posted by scrawl

Well, I ended up purchasing the Cyber 10b. Been patiently waiting for a 4wd that takes stick packs and comes in a Kit.

I'm part way through the build. The only real surprise so far is no bearings were provided for the diffs. Bushings instead. Some of the center-shaft outdrives are plastic, but that could be a non-issue.

Something very minor - it would have been nice if the manual said the 0.2mm shims were silver and the 0.1mm shims were copper. Quite challenging to work this out yourself at 11pm at night under a fluro light.

Other than that, quality of the parts appear excellent. The plastics have a nice tactile feel and are well moulded. Would strongly suggest using proper hex drivers to make the building experience more enjoyable. Using an Allen key will lead to pain

I was lucky enough to find a second-hand D4 that came with enough parts to fully outfit the Cyber 10b. D4 shocks, WCE slipper, rear CVDs, etc. Eyeballing, everything looks like it will fit except for the center shaft CVDs. Will be able to confirm later this evening.

Here's a question - in the manual it indicates to add diff lube to the ends of all the dogbones. Does anyone do this in practise? My experience is it collects dirt and causes more damage.

Wondering if I should also diff lube the gearbox gears as per the manual. I've never done this to my 2wd Losi but not 100% sure if this is something unique to the HPI plastic gears.

[scrawl]

Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't realise you were an HPI rep Adam.

I'm happy to say I have built my first set of CVD's (with grease no less). Am I right to assume these need some time to break in? I notice they sometimes 'catch' while rotating by hand.

[leinad]

Hi Adam... is it safe to say that as long as the length of the turnbuckle is the same as the one stated in the manual, it's safe to use on the Cyber 10B? Am actually looking at the titanium set for the Cyber 10B from HPI, but have no idea where to purchase them from.

[Adam Skelding]

Originally Posted by scrawl

Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't realise you were an HPI rep Adam.

I'm happy to say I have built my first set of CVD's (with grease no less). Am I right to assume these need some time to break in? I notice they sometimes 'catch' while rotating by hand.

No probs.

'Catch' - If you mean at absolute full articulation 'not in the car' then yes they do. All CVD's are compromised at full articulation unless they are 'Double CVD's'
In the car the CVD's should be sweet as a whistle. Do they 'catch' at one point or two? Are they front or rear which are catching?

[Adam Skelding]

Originally Posted by leinad

Hi Adam... is it safe to say that as long as the length of the turnbuckle is the same as the one stated in the manual, it's safe to use on the Cyber 10B? Am actually looking at the titanium set for the Cyber 10B from HPI, but have no idea where to purchase them from.

The length of the turnbuckles in the manual should be pretty spot on for the positions used. There is always a litle difference between kits due to compounding of tolerances in each part. It could be a maximum of +/-0.5mm.

Best thing to do is set the camber as you can measure this.
The set the steering turnbuckles to get your wheels straight. Always do these with the car fully laden.
Then, check / re-set the camber.



As for the Ti turnbuckles, they're in stock at HPI, so you should be able to ask your local model shop over the weekend to get you some in.

[leinad]

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding

...

As for the Ti turnbuckles, they're in stock at HPI, so you should be able to ask your local model shop over the weekend to get you some in.

That's great news... am over in SG and am not sure how long it'll take the distros to get them in. What are the essential bits you'd recommend getting (as spares)?

Thanks again for your guidance

[Adam Skelding]

SG?

Spares: Just the Basics. (I'm going off D4 running here)

Front and Rear Towers
Front Wishbones
Castor/Caster Block
Knuckles (Although I'm not sure if I've broke one - ever)

After the 24 hour meeting the only things I replaced were:
Z264 drive pins (In the CVD's)
Centre (Slipper) Drive Cups (WCE)
Centre CVD's

That's it. the diffs are still super smooth. So no need to rebuild them.

TBH- The D4 is probably the most durable car I've ever run, and I'm not just saying that . So the Cyber has got good DNA in it's older brother and it seems to have been passed on and not skipped a generation!

[leinad]

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding

SG?

...

SG = Singapore (South East Asia)