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#101
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Thanks, I feared as much - the microscopic pad 2 in my pic. Oh well, I can give it a go, it's not like they are very expensive if I mess up
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#102
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I've just carried out this conversion on my Type R and it works perfectly. It took me a little over an hour and a bit (mainly because I was half watching the TV at the same time) using the instructions here and if I can manage it anyone can.
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Hobao H2 Pro Team Associated B4.1 FT Ko Propo |
#103
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Great to hear your conversion went well mate. |
#104
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Sorry for the delay, here's my guide - http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106972
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#105
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Was talking to 2 of my fellow FORCC members last night about this conversion to my KO Type R, and they said that instead of soldering the 3 wires to the board, that there's the option of getting a "molex" plug and soldering that to the hack module instead, so that it plugs into the main board.
This seems like a better idea to me as it saves screwing up the board if your soldering skills aren't great, and also means switching back to 40Mhz (should you encounter problems) is a much easier task. Anyone gone this route at all? Pics? Part number from Maplins perhaps?
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#106
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I was contemplating going the same route with the molex plug, i came across that option on the giantshark forums. I believe its available from cpc and you trim off how many pins you need, but the cost of delivery was a minimum of £6 which made it a bit too expensive.
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#107
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Think I'd rather spend the £6 than risk damaging the PCB in my KO - do you have a link at all Jamie?
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#108
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Its called a wire wrap socket i believe, i entered it into ebay and a load of similar looking items came up - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nk...=p5197.c0.m627
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#109
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Ta muchly Jamie.
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#110
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i have just done this to my ko and it was easy to do and works great. i would say to anyone that this mod is well worth doing and if you are worried about the connections then dont be just take your time and it will go fine you dont need to be the best at soldering anyone can do it i think
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#111
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This is a great thread and the info is awesome, so Ive decided I'm going to do the Frsky mod quite soon but want a little feedback on the receivers available for use with the mod.
I'm not keen on the look of the one used on page 1 and wandered has anyone tried different receivers, I like the normal receiver look but would like to keep the size smallish (like the standard ko esprit one or smaller) I wondered will this one by frsky work http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp...215&prodid=841 or has anyone got a good alternative thats around the same price range. Thanks in advance and keep the mod pics rolling in. |
#112
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You can choose any FrSky reciever which starts "V8". THey are all compatible with this hack module. Hope that helps P.S. NOt sure why you dont like the small receiver shown here; fair enough. But if its because you are concerned that the cardboard reciever isnt durable, I can maybe help to assure you that it is pretty tough, light and tiny. |
#113
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Cheers Cardnim,
That certainly helps and will have a look to see if theres any I like lol. I just prefer to have the servo, esc connectors face upwards and just the overall look of the other style receivers appeals to me more but if I cant find one I'll just get one of the others at this price as its unbeatable. Thanks for the help |
#114
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For the TX connector, search for a SIL Pin Header 0.1"
They come in long strips - just break off 3 pins, solder and use some heat shrink |
#115
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Well thanks to cardnim iv done this conversion with my espit II and tested and works, aint been to track yet but did a range check and when as far as my eye could see was still working.
Didnt know you could put a 2.4 system in, till i see this so thanks cardnim. Ive mounted the things alil different, put the light and switch in the side draw and so its hidden, and the module mounted on the backing plate the arial mount! Mitch
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Classic Cars Racer CML Centro C4, Associated RC10 B2 "Hybrid", Mardave R12 "Hybrid", Tamiya F103B |
#116
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Glad you got it done Mitch - none of my brains though, I just followed another guide on YouTube and decided to scribble it up here. Good to hear it was useful though. Happy trails! |
#117
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Right - finally getting round to ordering the bits
Wanted to order a spare Tx aerial - which one is the right one for the V8HT hack module?
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#118
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But having had a few 2.4Ghz transmitters, the aerials all look interchangeable - but dont quote me on this! Im guessing that any 2.4Ghz aerial will screw in and work. Modelsport sell them for about £11 I seem to remember. P.S. wouldnt worry about a spare though. Havent heard of any breaking yet, and if you fit it correctly it should be well out of harms way. HTH. |
#119
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Okay thanks Cardnim. There did seem to be 2 that looked similar - one a 2dB and one a 5dB? Or are these totally wrong for the hack module?
Also thanks to John_Parker for the heads up on the SIL pins to replace the Molex plug. Deffo going this route rather than soldering to the PCB.
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#120
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Sanwa Gemini II help
Hi
I converted my KO Univ 3 a few weeks ago and all good - very easy and works great. Finally got round to taking my son's Sanwa Gemini II apart tonight to convert that and need a bit of advise as I am no electronics expert. Looked at the pic on page 2 of this thread and my Gemini II is a little different - actually has a different serial number and looks slightly different. Pic attached. Has anyone actually converted a Gemini II and if so are the three wires as per the picture on page 2? I can see how I would solder to the 2 solder points in the picture but the bottom one just seems to be a small brown circular spot which is not attached to any other part of the board. Does anyone have any pictures of their conversions. Thanks Rob |
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