Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[Spoolio]

Put a 5.5T in mine today for Broxtowe but it only ran with it for 2 heats (driven by Mr Brook who got it to 1st in the 4WD B-final) as it was a bit mental for such a small track. Decided to go back to the 7.5T to keep it under control.

Nice to see another Durga out today too, didn't get a piccy but it was beautifully painted. Damn thing was running plastic shocks and still got to the A-final too! Excellent result Chris.

[jimmy]

I was running a 12x1 and it was pretty nippy with the nimh but even quicker with the lipo (only ran it in rd1 and was saving it for the final, which never happened)
I ended up 2nd in the A final apparently today going by qualifying - but it's a shame I never got to battle for a win as it felt really good.

[CAClark]

Can you guys make a quick recommendation for a motor/ESC combo for a durga that is on the thrifty side. I don't have acres of cash for this, and I don't mind upgrading later as and when I am ready to consider racing my durga (need to get in shape with it first).

Thanks!

P.s. Feel free to PM me instead if you'd rather not side track the thread

[jimmy]

Depends what you're after really and what sort of speed you want. I really like the peak/orion vantage/V2 motors and that's what I've used exclusively in the Durga. I use brushless in my 501X now but used the same peak/orion motors when I reviewed the 501X. I think a 12 turn is ideal for 4wd off road on most tracks - good combination of speed, power and longevity.
They are quick and low maintenance - which is ideal really.
For an esc, well if you're looking to save money I'd recommend getting a 2nd hand lrp quantum 2 or nosram equivalent - that sort of ESC is cheap these days (everyone wants brushless) and works well, nice and smooth.

I'd get a 2nd hand competition ESC over a new basic one.

[Spoolio]

I'll second that Jimmy, I bagged a lightly used LRP Quantum Reverse and a 19 turn motor yesterday from someone going to brushless. Possibly the best deals will be trackside from racers looking to upgrade - those that want to change over there and then from the trackside shop will be eager to sell?

[drinternat]

Anybody tried these http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...20four%20piece)


I take it that these replace the pins on the drives at the wheel ends. I tried to include a picture but cant figure out how to include it.

[jimmy]

I don't understand these, the fronts yes, but the rear?

[DCM]

I don't think they accept the tamiya db-01 front or rear, more the DF-03 wheels as they are hex drives?

[Spoolio]

Anybody got an idea on this please? As per my earlier post I ran a 5.5 b/less for a bit but swapped it back to a 7.5 with a 14T pinion as running the 14T on the 5.5 just made it get too hot and it was still accelerating at the end of the (admittedly small) straight. Tried to go down to a 13T pinion to achieve as near to a 13:1 ratio as I could but the grub screw position on the pinion meant it had to sit further out on the motor shaft than ideal to clear the spur, basically achieving only 60% pinion/spur alignment - not good.

If I go to a 96T spur according to the gear chart, I should be able to get away with the 14T BUT, will a 96T 501X spur actually fit? Anybody done it?

Honestly this gearing thing is doing my head in - if I can't sort it I can see me resorting back to a brushed motor .

[A.J. Gee]

To tell you the truth from what i have heard, the 96t spur will not fit the DB-01. I myself have not tried it, so i cant say for sure, but like i said i have heard it will not.

[dirtrider]

Why is everyone so fond of this car... it's overpriced IMHO.

- The screws in the kit are pure amateur stuff, in fact a newbie will even kill them before even riding one foot.

- No slipper clutch, meaning extra stress on the gears

- Shocks look plastic and pretty amateuristic

- Chassis is one big part, including molded diff houdings etc... if something breaks you have to replace EVERYTHING...

If you start chacking the price of the car, add the necessary mods (hex screws, decent shocks, slipper) you'll end up with a car more expensive than a Kyosho Lazer ZX-5 SP, which is to be onest a way more professional kit than the Durga.

Can someone please explain me what light I'm missing here? Because I still haven't seen it

[mrbiccies]

In hindsight, I would have to say that after all the hop ups I now have, I could of bought an associated B44 for less money which would have been a better car but in standard kit form I think it is a good entry level car......

[jimmy]

It's cheap looking because....... its cheap!

- The screws in the kit are pure amateur stuff, in fact a newbie will even kill them before even riding one foot.
The screws on the ZX5 were a lot more unforgivable than on the Durga - why? because the Durga actually IS a cheap car and the ZX5 isn't.

- No slipper clutch, meaning extra stress on the gears
the Yokomo BC Special cost 250 ukp (500usd) and had no slipper.

- Shocks look plastic and pretty amateuristic
They are! But why don't you say that about the other Tamiya cars with the same shocks?

- Chassis is one big part, including molded diff houdings etc... if something breaks you have to replace EVERYTHING...
The XX4 and XXX4 won three world championships with similar chassis. The X5 uses one, the brand new AERO uses one.....

I'm not sure how it's over priced really, since it's 100 quid at least cheaper than the car you've been comparing it to. Maybe when it's got loads of hopups on it sure - but then do you have a 2nd rate car or a good race car?

[Doomanic]

Originally Posted by dirtrider

Can someone please explain me what light I'm missing here? Because I still haven't seen it

In simplest terms, it's "Tamiya Tough".
To get it to race spec makes it expensive, even buying the parts from HK, but there is nothing else out there as strong. If anyone disputes this, they should let Shorty loose with their car at Coventry and see how long it lasts!

[DCM]

I got, on mine, shocks, slipper, cvd's and shock towers, the car owes me now, about £160..... that includes shipping, I don't know of any other that costs the same.

Dirtrider forgets to mention it got the 501X worlds pulleys, fully ballraced diffs and drivetrain too.

And as Dom said, it is as tough as a over done steaks and as hard as nails. I have raced mine against the 501X and B44's and it was equal.... just half the price.

Some just can't get their head around the fact that a 'budget' car can be competitive.

[CAClark]

Originally Posted by dirtrider

Why is everyone so fond of this car... it's overpriced IMHO.

- The screws in the kit are pure amateur stuff, in fact a newbie will even kill them before even riding one foot.

- No slipper clutch, meaning extra stress on the gears

- Shocks look plastic and pretty amateuristic

- Chassis is one big part, including molded diff houdings etc... if something breaks you have to replace EVERYTHING...

If you start chacking the price of the car, add the necessary mods (hex screws, decent shocks, slipper) you'll end up with a car more expensive than a Kyosho Lazer ZX-5 SP, which is to be onest a way more professional kit than the Durga.

Can someone please explain me what light I'm missing here? Because I still haven't seen it

I think you are quite simply well... missing the point

[dirtrider]

Hmm ok this clearly is the 'Tamiya' board lol

@Jimmy: Ok the shocks on the Keen Hawk suck as well

But as for pricing, the ZX-5SP costs 309 $, the Durga (standard) costs 200 $. That's a difference of 109 $, for 109 $ you won't buy decent shocks, a slipper and hex screw set... not to mention CVD's etc.

@DCM: I did find the TRF shock set for the Durga, and the slipper, but what part nr. are the CVD's?

I don't say it can't be competitive, because I'm the first one to agree that the pilot is a very important factor, like I say, put a monkey in a Porsche, it will always be a monkey

I'm just scared that it breaks too soon. If I see the Keen Hawk review and that rear hinge pin that destroyed the whole gear housing... expensive stuff since you always have to replace the full housing.
As for the Durga: broken shock mounts, broken front arms.

I know this can happen to any car... I'm open for the Durga as a car but I don't want it to cost me a fortune, might as well better have chosen the ZX-5SP then!

Thanks,

Dom

Tamiyosho

[DCM]

yeah racing do driveshafts as do Tamiya, just go look on Stella.

The rear tower breaks where the wing attaches but I have not suffered it, as for breaking an arm..... you got to be really REALLY unlucky or a complete and utter numpty to be honest. I raced mine indoors and was jumping it 5ft in the air and landing on a hard floor and not a single issue.

Maybe the pricing isn't so competitive where you are, but the USD$ price from HK is just silly low.

[bender]

Remember that much of the cost of the 501 comes from the large amounts of carbon fibre and machined alloy pieces included that make up the bulk of the car.

Regardless of the number of hop-ups available for the Durga, it will still be cheaper simply because you can't replace the major parts like chassis, bulkheads etc with hop-ups.

Shocks, slipper, cvds, towers, suspension mounts - with these items the car is top notch, and still cheaper than most of the competition

[CAClark]

I think the thing with the Durga is that sure, the combined total of bits could push the overall price up to that of other cars, but the initial outlay is low for a car that cam be pretty competitive out of the box pretty well, and you can invest the extra dough over a period of time as you go, which suits the likes of me perfectly. I think I will race at some point, but not right away, so I can hop-up as I go, and if I end up not racing for any reason, I haven't forked out for a top comp car.

Cheers!