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#1881
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Question about Carbon Chassis
Quote:
Maybe you can help with another question I had about the Carbon chassis. I noticed that it simulates other 4WD chassis by having open slots under the battery mount and the motor. Is this design for better cooling (hence the optional Motor Heat sink plate sold by Tamiya)? I'm actually more fond of the sealed chassis design to protect the battery on off-road tracks. I never had a problem with batteries heating up during runs, so I never figured out why it's exposed underneath. |
#1882
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It allows the batteries to sit lower in order to lower the CG. If you're running lipo, the slots are not beneficial.
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Reflex Racing |
#1883
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Cracked it, didn't know you could squeeze that much out of a tube when you are desperate .
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#1884
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Quote:
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#1886
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Some interesting stuff listed for display at next month's Tokyo Hobby Show.
http://www.tamiya.com/english/hobbyshow/THS08/index.htm For DB-01, looks like longer rear universals.
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http://www.modrc.com |
#1887
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Interesting... possibly a solid rear ax?
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#1888
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I wouldn't say longer, I would say UJ and not CVD, it will help square the car up under power, tuning aide type item.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1889
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Hmmm, to be honest I'd like them to do some CVDs or UJ shafts that are a tad longer so the bloody things wouldn't fall out of the outdrives. Still, I can't see it personally. What beats me is why they can't just make a "Hop-Up" revised rear tower that mounts the TRF shocks just a little bit higher thus allowing us to use them without limiters and get max travel droop without popping the CVDs.
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#1890
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yes, I agree there though, if enough of us wants them, why not ask Atomic Carbon for front and rear towers?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1891
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I wonder how many of us would want, and be willing to pay for them? I posted just this suggestion a page or so back. I have enough used spares to build up a chassis with rear end to send as a pattern if we could get enough interest to ask Atomic. I'll enquire what quantity we'd need for it to be viable / cost etc.
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#1892
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Quote:
Other than that, bone stock and no rubbing Although I see that once I removed it, the tamiya hex pretty much ate one of my front wheel (it's my fault though, one of my front camber is off)
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Tamiya DB01 Durga Kyosho Turbo Optima |
#1893
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Do you have any photos of exactly how you got these wheels to fit? just tried again on a new durga and same - they simply don't even spin, never mind work - they are clamped so hard against the hub.
Either I have different rulux wheels to you, or you must have some non-standard front hex spacing? The durga doesn't use any washers up front in the manual
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. |
#1894
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Quote:
I had a hard days running the durga today ended up breaking the rear shock tower. I just replaced my DX3.0 with my KO EX-1 Mars with Spektrum Module and now I have to relearn how to drive again. Just by replacing the radio, I found all of sudden that: 1. I have SUPER FAST steering from my Futaba S9402 2. Superior linear acceleration from my LRP Sphere TC ESC and I'm scratching my head thinking (was the DX3.0 transmitter that bad?) All I know is that I should have driven my ZX-5 RTR, change the steering servo to Z590M and change the motor to Trinity Stock CO27 with 20/78 gearing. That was fun!!! (at the practice only *bummer*). I just picked up a used Db01 with 3 Racing shocks and some other options for $100 so I think I'll be moving my electronics to that and see what happens because I just could not get my Durga run right
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Tamiya DB01 Durga Kyosho Turbo Optima |
#1895
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The shocks will make a huge difference in the stability of the driving. One of the problems with the stock rear shock towers is the travel is just too long on the shaft. Most buggy setups have a shaft travel that bottoms out the chassis. Instead the DB01 shocks hit their limits prior to a chassis slap... this puts all of the travel force of the stock shocks directly on the shock tower. Changing the stock shocks out for almost anything is well worth it. I really like the Tamiya Aeration shocks... running reds back and yellows front.
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#1896
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Quote:
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#1897
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Quote:
But you have to remember that the KO has more adjustments compared to DX3.0 and the radio was intended to be a "budget" system with three channels not a professional system like the Mars. I have not touch the Mars for the past two and a half years so the setting might be a little different now. I might revert all the radio setting back to default and start a new now that I have a spare chassis that I am picking up later today. Supposedly the chassis is setup better than mine and comes with 3Racing shocks so I will play around with it when I can. My current chassis just needed to be rebuilt period lol. I'm thinking of buying a TRF Damper kit for 501X from rcmodel.hk in the near future with a possibility of converting my original chassis with the carbon chassis (and use the parts as a spare to my newer DB01; my current one is kinda abused lol) creating a DB01R/MS Wish me luck
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Tamiya DB01 Durga Kyosho Turbo Optima |
#1898
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LOL. Amazing how that happens, eh? Similar experience here this week with going to a Futaba 9452 servo from a Futaba 3004.
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#1899
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Quote:
__________________
Reflex Racing |
#1900
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yeap its a quick and easy enough job but if you don't do it and try to run short wheelbase you'll get a rather poorly handling car landing from jumps and the like.
__________________
If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. |
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