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#1941
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Sorry, I disagree. After dealing with the underdesigned 5x9 bearings in the tamiya touring cars for many years - the switch to a 5x10 was a godsend. Those dinky 5x9 bearing SUCK! They got destroyed frequently and on a regular basis. If you used them in TC mod - they barely lasted one race day even if you don't hit anything. The 5x10's were much more durable. A big thumbs down for the new WO hub carriers and the stupid 5x9 bearings.
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#1942
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I'm not really sure what these are for still? What exactly is the point in these items and are they only for the DB01? I'd not want to go any smaller on the hub bearings - these take a right kicking and bigger is better.
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. |
#1943
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Quote:
you will never get the money back you paid on hopups when you sell the car (if that makes sense ) example; My last TA-05, kit cost about £80, Hop-ups - near £250 (no joke, everything was changed) Thats a total of about £330 The best price i could get on it when i sold it was £80
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Associated TC5 Tamiya TT-01E Quite a rare discontinued hard to get hold of NIB Tamiya TB-01 |
#1944
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A little for those that are interested in speed. A Novak 3.5r in a Durga with a 15T pinion will give you a GPS-verified max speed of 55mph. You'll need a battery that can live with ~110 amp spikes to do this.
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#1945
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my little durga
after reading reviews and hearing good things about the durga, i finally got one... and I must say... it's nice....thanks!
here's my very own durga
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"Slow down and enjoy life. It's not only the scenery you miss by going too fast, you also miss the sense of where you are going and why." EmptsTamiyaClub Tamiya Pachi Digital - |
#1946
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Pininy, your durga looks sweet.
Are the front end supposed to be so low? /tobias |
#1947
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No, I've lowered it for the photo shoot, but not sure if it's good idea to keep it so low.
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"Slow down and enjoy life. It's not only the scenery you miss by going too fast, you also miss the sense of where you are going and why." EmptsTamiyaClub Tamiya Pachi Digital - |
#1948
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I must say that your Durga is the best looking one that i have seen on here so far. Great job.
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#1949
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Pin,
Looks great as always. I would take those brass bushings out and replace them with 850 bearings. I ran mine with the bushings and after a few runs, it got all sloppy. I have a feeling now that you have the Durga, you're going to neglect your other buggies. Haha.
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http://www.modrc.com |
#1950
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oh thanks, yeah..planning to.. was thinking that too. thanks! haha, I might, have been a while since I've got back into buggies..
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"Slow down and enjoy life. It's not only the scenery you miss by going too fast, you also miss the sense of where you are going and why." EmptsTamiyaClub Tamiya Pachi Digital - |
#1951
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#1952
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Mamba Max ESC in a Durga?
Hey,
I've been a lurker on this thread for ages, but I don't think I can resist the lure of the Durga anymore... One question: looking at the pics of Pininy's car, the Novak ESC seems a pretty tight fit, which makes me wonder if my Mamba Max ESC will fit. The Durga's similarity to the TA05 tub has been talked about quite a bit, and I can't fit the MM in my TA05, so will I be up for a new ESC? I don't want to have to chop into the chassis to squeeze it in. Cheers. |
#1954
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I'm using a MM without any problem and no chassis modification.
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#1955
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I want to update you all with my Durga.
After I managed to destroy the original wing, I ended up with a classic new wing... The 3Racing shocks are from the Baldre I just sold. I found one willing buyer who wants to buy it at the right price...off it goes Now, I haven't had a chance to test the car with the new shocks yet so I'm hoping it will be dialed. One of these days, I will take the picture of the car's interior...it's a bit filthy at the moment
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Tamiya DB01 Durga Kyosho Turbo Optima |
#1956
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Are there any other db01 runners doing the MK GP on sunday? I ask as I've mullered a spur gear and am not sure if the spare will arrive by the weekend? Otherwise I'll be pulling out.. ta.
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Answer RC SWorkz 35-3 SWorkz 350T SWorkz S12-2 Instagram: crazylthirteen Blogger: http://the-croucher.blogspot.co.uk/ |
#1957
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buy a B4 one and then go down one tooth on the pinion.....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1958
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Hi guys, ran my secondhand bought durga for the first time last night, it was AWESOME!!! the local guy i bought it from ran it outdoors on a dry/dusty track, but he only ran it about 3 times so the chassis is in great shape. He put the tamiya upgrade shocks on it, as well as the swaybar set, new bearings and the slipper clutch. I ran in the sportsmans 4wd class (this is U.S indoor track with a bit better than medium bite) I got faster each qualifier and ended up qualified 5th. In the main about 3 minutes in I was all over the 2nd place car when my front right wheel came off at the end of the sweeper still I had so much fun! the car just felt better and better every time i drove it!. I had read that the car uses the same hex and pin wheel configuration as the losi and the b44, so i bought b44 rims. The first time i drove the car for practice the same wheel fell off so i ended up putting a couple shims on before putting on the wheel, and some loctite also. What is the best solution for this problem, or should i just buy some tamiya rims and go that route? Also, where is the best place in the states to get some carbide diff balls, and what size are they? One more question, my car has about 3 mm of slop in the front arms from the pinholders, would it be worth it to upgrade to the aluminum front pinholders?
Thanks in advance! Mike |
#1959
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Quote:
Wheels - There is an issue with the original 501X rims (Tamiya logo aroound the circumference) where the hex is a slightly slack fit which lets the wheels work loose. Use the Durga rims (Tamiya logo on radius) instead which are a snug fit. You still need to check your nuts before each race though - some people switched to the Hotbodies serrated nuts which won't work loose at all . B44 hex is the same across flats but ever so slightly wider so may rub on the hub or not tighten fully without some shims. Diff balls are 3mm on the Tamiyas. Personally I think the kit steel ones are absolutely fine but many people use ceramic or carbide instead. Use some shims on the front arms, it will also help to stop the pins being pulled out in a crash. I also think the alloy ones are unnecessary but other people have switched to them. |
#1960
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I (mistakingly) allowed my boy to run his DB-01 indoors yesterday, he got to the first corner, straight on into the wall, and actualy managed to rip the wishbone off the inner hanger, I had put the alloy suspension blocks on, they were fine, the hinge pin on the other hand... well, lets say it is off to meet Mr Hammer and vice... grrrrr
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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