help with step 2A lol

[Chrislong]

Those washers which are different, its the thickness which is different from what I can tell.

[telboy]

Chris, I opted not to go down the 'bleeding thumbs' route with the ring on the pulleys . After trying to put one together I realised that they were a bit on the sharp side!


I just went down the pliers route.
I never had any success with the Hot water either....kept burning my hands!!



Just oredered loads of bits for mine now, so should get it something like.

[Cassp0nk]

Thanks for the confirmation Chris. It's these details you don't get in the manual!

Whats the best way if cleaning sharp edges of plastic? Swipe with some emery paper? Sand paper is too course right?

[Northy]

Originally Posted by Chrislong

Those washers which are different, its the thickness which is different from what I can tell.

No Chris, it's the diameter

G

[Cassp0nk]

Originally Posted by Northy

No Chris, it's the diameter

G

Maybe the kit has changed as I can't imagine parts being manufactured to micron tolerances that are invisible to the human eye and his calliper?!?!? The bevel on the bearing thing isn't too visible either lol, still not 100% sure I could see that. Maybe I need a magnifying glass...

Oh well, will order a diff rebuild kit at some point and take a further look.

[Northy]

if you think about it though the outer one has to be smaller, otherwise as the diff turns it turns in the opposite direction to the diff half it is sat in and would rub on the inside?

What page is building the diffs on?

G

[Cassp0nk]

Originally Posted by Northy

if you think about it though the outer one has to be smaller, otherwise as the diff turns it turns in the opposite direction to the diff half it is sat in and would rub on the inside?

What page is building the diffs on?

G

Page 7. Step 11 a.

I think the bit we are discussing just preloads the diff though as the main mechanism is the plastic ring with the ball bearings in it.

[Northy]

Yeh, but look at the picture in 11 B, the cut through of the diff.

The large washer that is next to the disc springs turns the same way as the diff half when the diff is turning (it has to - it can't do anything else), but the smaller washer has to turn in the opposite direction to stop the bolt coming slack.

Either the outer washer must be smaller or the diff half wider where the outside washer sits in the diff otherwise it would bind and the diff would loosen.

G

[MattW]

the diameter is different on the thrust washers - 0.2mm difference. 8mm and 7.8mm

[Cassp0nk]

So what do you think the upshot is of getting them the wrong way round? 50:50 chance on one of my diffs I think

[BlackedOutMugen]

Originally Posted by Chrislong

Cass is right, at 8mm the bellcranks point inwards. I ran mine like this and it was very "safe" with understeer, but not fast. I lengthened the turnbuckle until the bellcranks are parallel and the car turns in sharpy - is still safe but can be driven hard as it will turn when asked.

Really? Mine are straight! Maybe a little pointing in, but not 3mm. And mine are at 8mm, 8.04 if I remeber right

Originally Posted by telboy

Chris, I opted not to go down the 'bleeding thumbs' route with the ring on the pulleys . After trying to put one together I realised that they were a bit on the sharp side!


I just went down the pliers route.
I never had any success with the Hot water either....kept burning my hands!!



Just oredered loads of bits for mine now, so should get it something like.

Hahahahaha, yeah I thought about water, but used a heat gun. Worked pretty nicely That or pliers. Some of them were super tight

Originally Posted by Cassp0nk

Thanks for the confirmation Chris. It's these details you don't get in the manual!

Whats the best way if cleaning sharp edges of plastic? Swipe with some emery paper? Sand paper is too course right?

I used a X-acto and got some of the edge off. Sand paper, what ever cleans the edge up a bit

[jono83]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

The instructions are correct but they are a very tight fit - once fitted they 'click' loudly into place.
Some are tighter than others so try swapping different flanges onto different pulleys.

I managed with a steady hand and very careful pressure with some long nose pliers.
Any flashing should be gently trimmed but you don't need to dremel.

When fitted - take care oof the pulley orientation when you fit them onto the layshafts. There is a shoulder on one side that creates an offset. Fit it the wrong way round and the pulley will bind slightly with the transmission housings and the whole thing is tight to turn over. Get it right and it's smooth - just take care (you'll get what I mean when you get to it)

Cheers

did you quote that from this months racer magazine?

[jono83]

double post

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by jono83

did you quote that from this months racer magazine?

Sort of

[Cassp0nk]

lol just ordered your mag