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#21
01-02-2010
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you can search for 'parasitic drain' but as topher said, remove negitive battery connection, set multimeter to amps and connect between neg battery terminal & removed cable, we were showing 3amps ( I still dont quite believe it), remember interior lights may be on ect. I also saw references to bad neg lead connection to the bodywork as being capable of draining . Good luck 
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#22
01-02-2010
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if you do measure a drain, do a sense check... your car probably has a 55amp hour battery (maybe a 65 if it is the 1.7) so it should do 55 amps for one hour before being flat, if your current draw is 1 amp then the battery will go flat in just over 2 days, if it is 5 amps then its an overnight job.
Keep asking questions if not sure or message me and I will send you mobile number.
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#23
01-02-2010
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Cheers for the help there.
One question, is there an easy way to check if the battery has drained a lot, if the car starts. Sometimes when it starts on a morning, I can get where i'm going, leave it through the day, then it won't start in the evening... Is there a simple way of checking the state of the battery in the morning before I set off to see if it's at say 30% charged, i.e has discharged but not gone flat yet ? Reason I ask is the missus drives the car and i'd like to know the battery is indeed 100% full before she goes out in it. I can put the digital voltmeter on it, but it will I guess show 12.4 volts or similar even if it's approaching going flat,
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#24
01-02-2010
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As soon as you start it it will drain more power from it. You could do with one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12V-CAR-BOAT-B...item5885da87f5
Some diy stores sell them for about £25 but at least after you've shown the missus how to use it she would,nt get stuck anywhere if the battery did discharge. Only thing is once you've used it , it needs to be recharged for the next time.
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My feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19395
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#25
01-02-2010
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Yep. Already bought one of those jump star things !!
Just being out to the car after leaving it stood for 3 days, unused. I put my battery charger on the battery to see how long it took before it cut off having charged the battery. Took all of 2 mins !! So, it looks like the battery is only draining when the car is running, although on the drive the alternator appears to be pumping out good voltage ?? Any ideas anyone that's helped so far ? Cheers. Andy.
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#26
01-02-2010
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Found this which may help
Current drain on the battery can be checked with an ammeter. Make sure the ignition is off, then disconnect one of the battery cables. Connect one ammeter lead to the battery and the other to the cable. The normal current drain on most vehicles should be about 25 milliamps or less. If the key-off drain exceeds 100 milliamps, there's an electrical problem that requires further diagnosis. Finding the hidden current drain can be time consuming. The easiest way to isolate the problem is to pull one fuse at a time from the fuse panel until the ammeter reading drops. This will tell you which circuit is draining the battery. Then you have to check the wiring and each of the components in that circuit to pinpoint the problem. more on http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ques028_3.html
__________________
My feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19395
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#27
03-02-2010
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One of the Taxi guys had exactly the same weird fault on his Omega, started fine, and went flat over a day's work, tried and tested everything, finally left it at main dealer running, and they discovered one of the battery cables had corroded internally, and was heating up when in use, that flattened the battery in a days running no problem, they had done batteries and alternators beforehand to no avail. easy check, just attach jump leads direct fromthe battery to car and bypass the cables, to see if you get better volts than without, at the ends, ie back of starter and engine block.Or just leave it running and see if they heat up.
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#28
24-03-2010
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Arghhh - my puma is driving me mad, anyone got any ideas re my latest info ?
---- Put on a brand new alternator this week. Then did a 20 mile run, with the lights on, parked the car up for the night. Next morning won't start. It did exactly the same last tuesday, after exactly the same run. So I sort of knew it wouldn't start this morning. It seems that if I drive a decent distance with the lights on, then leave the car over night, it's pretty dead the next day. It almost turned over this morning, but then didn't and just clicked away to itself. Any ideas ? I'm pretty much out of options now, the battery is new, the alternator is new and the battery goes flat after a run with the lights on ?
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#29
24-03-2010
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id say your problem is in the wiring, how many wires are on the alternator? One main battery then one two or three on the other 'plug, if its got smart charge forget std diag. A good auto electrician should diag that in less than an hour.
You need a full current draw and voltage drop test doing Worked at ford for over 15 plus years,
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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#30
24-03-2010
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mmm, I presume when you turn your lights off and walk away the lights are actually off and its not a relay sticking and keeping them on? (I had this with a new relay last year in my MG)
I think Mark is on the right lines though, good auto electricians can normally sort these things quite quickly!
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#31
24-03-2010
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Hi Chaps.
Can anyone recommend a good auto electrician in the Leeds area ? I've had two local garages look at the car, one used their preferred auto electrician and neither found any problems. I don't know what they did, probably just the things i can do myself !!
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#32
24-03-2010
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Mark.
The alternator has one thick red wire bolted to it on the fron, then a small pug with 2 thin wires running from it, that's all.
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#33
24-03-2010
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Best autoelectrician if they are still there, behind Lawson's of tadcaster Ford dealer, on the road out of tadcaster back towards York, always sorted our taxis out, even with bizarre faults, and will happpily do a fix it rather than new parts only, they totally rewired our montego once when driver put CB power cable under handbrake lever, burned loom from light switch on stick right through, he rebuilt loom from scratch and very reasonable.
Ah they have moved D & I Auto Electrics Unit 1-2 / Rookes Enterprise Park Little Catterton Lane Tadcaster North Yorkshire LS24 8EA Telephone: 01937 832441 Try them, a phone call can't hurt.
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#34
24-03-2010
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one of those small wires goes to the pcm, one goes to the warning lamp
Just drop ur rear seats and make sure boot lamp is going out if you have one
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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#36
24-03-2010
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Quote:
Firstly i'd just like to say what a complete and utter bell-end you are! The language is hardly needed - if you disagree why not do it in a better mannor instead of hurling abuse at the nearest chance you can. You say they have it so good, do you even read the newspapers and see how much debt these companys are in right now? Ford for example were in the deep end with huge losses! Yes the scrappage scheme has helped them all out of trouble - as thats the idea of it! get rid of the old bangers, reduce costs for buyers, increase sales for the motor industry! However as my initial post said you can get better deals by playing hard to get / hard-ball, if you can work out simple maths and add 2+2 then you wouldnt get your self in the situation to pay the full RRP. Dealers work along stats, their HQ will give them a quota of cars they should aim to sell in a particular month, they NEED to shift them cars to keep good stats, along with good profit margins. With this in mind they will lower the costs if you push them. The scrappage scheme CAN be good, but only if you do it right, as someone has already said there's plenty of horror stories of companies tieing you in to high rate finance deals where your paying back the 2k anyway plus a lot more. One thing I picked out of your load of crap i'd call a thread post, is you were actually right in one point. Dealers WILL make money out of you, common sense would hopefully prevail here and you'd realise the idea is to make them make less money out of you! If you want cheap, go to wrecks 'r' us garage on the corner, if you want a reliable, warrantied, quality car then you know your gonna have to pay the price! Agree or not, I couldn't care, you seem too narrow minded to even warrant a second responce. 
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#37
24-03-2010
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Will check the boot light, but i'm pretty sure there isn't one as i've looked for this before. With a voltmeter on the battery and it running the voltage is around 14.5 volts, same with the lights on etc. It does seem that it only goes flat after a run with the lights on ? It's cost me 1 new battery, 1 new alternator and 2 garage bills so far, so i'm very close to calling it a day ! Thing is the car is 10 years old with only 50k on the clock and it's great in every other respect, I just need to sort this fault....
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#38
24-03-2010
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Quote:
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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