GT12 Help.. - Page 4

stucartwright · #61 12-04-2015

Shiny... That's a top tip!! Shoejollop on the front bumper it is....
Pics of the new shell...
Still to do the arches...

stucartwright · #62 12-04-2015

Pic two

stucartwright · #63 12-04-2015

Pic 3

shinytopman · #64 12-04-2015

Hi Stu,
Thats not actually on the front bumper, but on the inside of the shell, in the bumper area.

Not to much though!

One other thing has anybody pointed you in the direction of ceramic bearings yet? If not its a great upgrade to free up you rolling resistance.

Shell looks good BTW

stucartwright · #65 12-04-2015

With the arches done...
The compass cutter folks, for a numpty with scissors, an absolute no brainier. Well chugged with the finished article!

stucartwright · #66 12-04-2015

Pic 2

stucartwright · #67 12-04-2015

Shiny... Ceramic bearings, do tell...??

Can you send a link? Only for the front wheels I'm guessing?

mark christopher · #68 12-04-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by stucartwright

So I've ordered the Vapex 1s from Zen and the magnetic bodyshell alignment tool which I will obviously give my worthless feedback, :-) but as always appreciate the top tips!

So I have my next question...
I now have the lowered rear end conversion which obviously makes my battery strap redundant, what do all you guys do? The thought of forever faffing with tape is not an ideal prospect and I am confident you veterans of the GT12 world will have yet more words of wisdom on this subject...??

Next up, tyres... This chunking business is very unpleasant, not that I have done it toooo many times, it does seem those that true their tyres seem to have a point that new fat tyres can lead to a false economy, however I have no intention on buying a tyre truer that's for sure! Is superglue on the tyre rims the best plan of attack to reduce tyre chunking and the instability of new tyres? My OCD of clean and neat may have a problem with the flaky bits of superglue I suspect may occur after a few runs; happy to be told otherwise!!

That's it for now, off to the stables to watch the boss (Mrs C), trot around a field whilst I think of apexes and throttle control!

Happy Sunday all.

I use the strap still just use some spacers or cut the original posts down, full how to on the facebook page.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stucartwright

Shiny... Ceramic bearings, do tell...??

Can you send a link? Only for the front wheels I'm guessing?

schumacher sell them or rcbearings

shinytopman · #69 12-04-2015

Hi Stu,

Front and rear.

As Mark stated above you can get them from Schumacher or RCbearings.co.uk

Check your PM's will send you a link via Private message

shinytopman · #70 12-04-2015

Double post

Danosborne6661 · #71 13-04-2015

For chunking - Shoe Goo on the rear side walls.

shinytopman · #72 13-04-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danosborne6661

For chunking - Shoe Goo on the rear side walls.

O.k. cheers for that.

That might be interesting to try. If it saves me a set of tyres then thats gotta be a good thing

Cheers,
Shiny

stucartwright · #73 13-04-2015

The new shorter and lighter weight wires all done.
however getting the motor sensors wire shorter is beyond me...

stucartwright · #74 13-04-2015

Afer coming back from Maritime on Thursday of last week, I stripped the car down and gave her a clean and dusting; stripped off the wires as advised and got it all soldered up today and gave her a run outside my place on a nice bit of tarmac.

To my horror, I think I may have bent a rear axle!!

Now, I am at one with the wall on many occasions when wafting around the track too fast for my own good and my fellow competitors, but bending an axle..!? I was unaware of this, until the mesh which I may have mentioned in previous in this thread, made an ugly noise.

Is bending the rear axle easy to do?? ish?

This is my second bent rear axle, after my first outing over in Rayleigh, some clown with a touring car slammed into the side of me and bent my axle again...

Upon inspection, the drive shaft itself looks straight, when i took the diff off, then rebuilt it, then ran out without the stub axle on and appear straight, then applied stub axle and wheels then appears bent.. Am I going mad or is someone able to enlighten me?

Is there a true test to see if the axle is bent?

Could it be just the stub axle bent or unlikely its just the stub axle?

I also have a replacement rear axle that I ordered previously for my last bent rear axle, but couldn't get the rear hub off due to the lactate I had put on the grub screws so I didn't use it.. I then went to use this as a replacement for the one I have at present (See in the pictures) and the axle is too long?!!

Someone, PLEASE HELP!!

Best Wishes as ever...
Stuart

stucartwright · #75 13-04-2015

One last question on this topic...
I notice there is a zen rear axle diff conversion

http://www.zen-racing.co.uk/catalog/...ff-bolt-p-1164

I have seen this in the flesh, made of carbon fibre I'm guessing, hence reducing the bending opportunity..

Would be very keen to get this is someone has one and recommends??

Would allow me to use the JFT wheels and tyres which I believe are better...

Stuart

shinytopman · #76 14-04-2015

Check stub axle is seated properly in the diff Stu.

Are you running the light weight (alloy) axle cos it doesn't take much to bend them.

As for the zen axle kit, i must say looks very tempting i've been looking myself, but then a little devil sitting on my shoulder reminds me that its a third the price of a zen race kit and would that be a better investment.

Going back to that though there are a few that run JFT's on there SSGT's at Maritime as apposed to contacts so i pressume they prefer them.

The other option and correct me if im wrong someone you can buy the donuts (foam tyres) mount them on contact rims and true them up on a tyre truer, or get someone to true them up for you.

Shiny

Danosborne6661 · #77 14-04-2015

As mentioned, if you want to try JFT foams, the best thing to do is to glue some donuts on to Contact rims for a tester. I've known a few top drivers to try both set-ups of tyres and there's not a lot in it... if anything really. But always worth a try!

Axles can bend, it's not an uncommon thing to happen if you have some heavier or awkward impacts. If you remove the axle it should be pretty clear if it's bent by rolling it on some glass.

The end stub-axle can also bend.

Just messaged Jimmy to see if we can get a GT12 section by the way

mark christopher · #78 14-04-2015

Jft are good and myself and my team mate have tested them back to back, he was faster on contacts, but at another track jft were better, there is no better one in my opinion.

You can not buy jft dougnuts so forget putting them on contact wheels.
The carbon axle is lighter and wider, they don't bend but will snap on a good impact. The axle will also cost you about 60 to 70 quid to build up.

Alloy axle is less prone to bending than the steel version

stucartwright · #79 14-04-2015

Ok chaps, thats useful...
I am pretty sure its the stub axle, I tested the drive shaft and could not see a bend in it. So I may order both and have a new diff as a spare, I'm sure i will bend on again.

Just to confirm, I have the diff with the pink end (i forget the part name) this is the alloy axle rather than the steel... Am I correct?

I think I will leave the Zen conversion, as mentioned, a third the price of a Zen which may have to purchased in time as a comparison!

Great work on the GT section request, would be highly needed.. Such a great great class..

I thought I would be missing Maritime this week, the new additions to the car and West Kent on Sunday makes this Thursday impossible to miss!! :-)

Best Wishes

Stuart

mark christopher · #80 14-04-2015

Alloy diff is the axle, available in steel or alloy, if the hub is not central on build up it can make the wheel nut hub wobble.

You really should try the fb page