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#521
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Motor Timing: Launch Motor timing is an absolute. It’s effective throughout the entire range of the cars speed. This is the adjustment that should be made for the first few feet of car travel. Timing Boost: Acceleration The ideal start/end rpm for boost will depend on the platform/chassis being used along with track size and motor wind. The size of the range will also affect how the car pulls. A narrow rpm range will effectively produce a faster rate of boost vs. a wide range will have a slower rate of boost: 1000rpm start / 6000 end with 50 timing boost will provide 10 degrees of boost per 1000 rpm vs. 1000rpm start / 11000 end with 50 timing boost will provide 5 degrees of boost per 1000 rpm. Spec Motors: So far pan cars are using between 1,000 and 7,000 on most tracks. This is due to not having a gearbox and being direct drive. TC’s are showing a useable range of 2,000 to 13,000 on most tracks. This is due to having a reduction gear box. Offroad spec is showing a range from 5,000 to 20,000 is ideal on most tracks. Turbo Timing: Top speed Turbo Delay: This is the time that must expire at wide open throttle to engage turbo. This is NOT dependant on RPM’s in any way. Ideally this should be NO lower than .2 and in all likelyhood will be set at .4 or more. Tracks that have straights less than 80ft will likely NOT need turbo. Turbo Ramp Rate: This is the literal ramp rate of whatever your turbo timing is set. So: A turbo setting of 20 will give you the following reaction: 1.0 Ramp rate = 20 degrees in 1 second applied 2.0 Ramp rate = 20 degrees in .5 seconds applied 3.0 Ramp rate = 20 degrees in .30 seconds applied So if you run timing it will just change the total applied, not the speed at which it’s applied.
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Tekin Team Manager |
#522
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Quote:
no, that's normal. Futaba throttle channel has to be reversed. |
#523
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Hi, i had a few problems today, can anyone help. Running a cat sx indoor on a 83/24 with an rs esc and 7.5 vortex sensored. had problems with losing throtle for a couple of seconds then coming back on and off again, only really started after around 2 and half minutes in to the race.
Could some one give me a starting set up for the speedo if poss. Cheers Rob
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#524
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are you using spektrum?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#525
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no mate using futaba 3gr fs
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#526
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what cells you running?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#527
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5000mah 20c orion platinum
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#528
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make sure, initially, that you got the lipo cut off set right, what radio are you running?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#529
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running futaba 40mhz radio, im pretty sure it was somthink to do with the setup of the speedo i changed it from dual mode to sensored and this calmed it down slightly but the motor is still getting hot.
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#530
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how many lights are you getting on, with the temp indicator?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#531
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not sure as i only found out about the temp meter a few hours ago. what should i look for? do i just pull it in when it starts to do it and check? cheers
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#532
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Yes, as soon as you have finished racing pull it in and see how many lights flash, if your getting 4 or less then your fine, 5 is ok too, 6 your close to the limit.
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{CML Distribution} {Penguin Bodyshells} |
#533
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cheers if it is that, is it worth me down gearing it slightly? Or is there anythink i can do to the settings that would stop it. cheers
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#534
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are you running the RS or RS Pro?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#535
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You really shouldnt be struggling after 2/3 mins. What version firmware are you running ?? Can you list your speedo setup ?? Are you setting it with hotwrire i presume ?
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{CML Distribution} {Penguin Bodyshells} |
#536
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running the rs, couldnt post the set up a a guy at the club did it for me he put his setup on it. but he runs 2wd. he said he updated it to the latest firmwear. could that be the problem?
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#537
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right, you may be hitting the thermal limit of the RS, you need to look at running a fan over the solder posts.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#538
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i have heat shrink around the posts could that be problem?
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#539
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it won't help, as they are the heatsinks, but a 7,5 is going to push the limits, get the heatshrink off, and a fan running over the posts, maybe running in sensored will help it run a little cooler.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#540
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cheers, would it help if i adjust any of the settings with the hotwire?
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