|
||
|
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||
|
#1
29-08-2011
|
|||
|
|||
Caster S10b Pro
So I bought it just for the electrics, and I've taken a real shine to it. Virtually brand new, uprated diffs and as time goes by, I'll stick some of the other version 2 stuff in it (it's mostly there already).
I also got an SK10 RTR at the same time (plastic version, 100% interchangeable parts, unsused) plus enough components on top to replace huge sections.   I've put the RTR electrics in the old touring car, and stuck the 8.5T, 60A EZRun package in the car. If Seaham is on Sunday, I'll give it an outing for the first time. I was going to take the B44 but I suspect it will not be ready in time (a lot of rounded screws to replace). At which time I'll decide which one to keep. You'll notice on the picture I don't have the shell properly on the car - I'm trying to figure a way to adjust the fasteners to keep the shell secure at that height -at the correct level the ESC is quite compressed. An undertray would help, but cannot find any 
|
|
#3
09-09-2011
|
|||
|
|||
|
Remember seeing this on eBay, was listed a few times
Also was on modelsport for 250 You Had a bargain , put hotbodies d4 diff gears unit as a must And shim it , it will last forever If your feeling flush , a d4 wce slipper system This will be a better car over the b44 in my opinion But that's just me. I run a d4 and s10b rtr for my son A def must is the d4 shell, they retail around 20 quid I have a used one for sale on eBay starting tonight Pm Me if you want
|
|
#5
09-09-2011
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Having issues with the Pro having an apparent lack of punch from standstill- but I need to really try and race it to determine that first as well as if it affects the acceleration. I also tried the SK10 with the brushless system and this seems to have a little more punch By the time Jarrow is back on, I'm going to bring both of the cars along to compare (also as I;m more likely to crash) Ultimately I have decided to sell the B44. I might revisit it at a later time if I take it all more seriously, but whilst starting out the budget is favouring the Caster (as I have at least everything x2, as well as plastic options to add some flex of needed so no need to worry about spares at present)
|
|
#6
09-09-2011
|
|||
|
|||
|
Pm,d back at yuh
I would say the diffs and slipper standard are terrible On my old one I used shimmed d4 diff gears , this was great for around 3 race nights , 4 five min heats on carpet and polished floor. After this it was slipping I thought through the slipper clutch However this was tight , so it turned out the diffs them selves just wernt up to much As it was a shame , but d4 bits all the way in it!! Like I said , I run a d4 now and sin has s10b with pro bits on it and getting there over time as he's not even 4 yet lol but very competitive But I have a complete rtr broken down into spares that we both will be using Try looking on here under the hotbodies bit , there's some good set ups for you  hope this helps
|
|
#7
09-09-2011
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#8
09-09-2011
|
||||
|
||||
|
Having issues with the Pro having an apparent lack of punch from standstill
could be the slipper clutch is set too loose/slack so all the power is spinning away at the clutch before even getting to the wheels.............
|
|
#9
09-09-2011
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#10
10-10-2011
|
||||
|
||||
|
I had the same problem... check how tight the diff is i had a pro and a rtr sold both and got losi 22. Also over time the cups wear down alot and d4 slipper i agree, fits straight in and only £40 i think you can adjust it while it in car! hope this helped.
__________________
Sam Harris Serpent Spyder SRX-2 MM
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
