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#21
21-05-2012
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Claying
Another + for claying from me. NEVER has the paint on my car felt so smooooooooth.
If you are interested in claying best to look on Youtube there are loads of clips but here's what I do to my car before claying and after. It is worth investing in some decent microfibre cloths, Solid WAX polish and natural sponge's. Rule No 1 - It takes an hour to wash a car by yourself but a day to clean it so set aside a day to do this with no disturbance. 1. I wash the car using Zymol car shampoo and rinse. Leather off paintwork and leave to dry. 2. Find the worst affected areas ( normally horizontal like roof and bonnet ) by using a microfibre cloth gently on the paintwork and you will feel the cloth tugging and pulling on the paintwork if it's really bad. Do not use your hands to find affected areas, if you have rough hands this will scratch the laquer and push the muck you are trying to get out of the paint further in ! 3. I use the Mer clay bar kit and it works really well, just follow the instructions in the kit for great results and do your roof and bonnet in 1/4's 4. After claying I will rinse and leather off the car again and allow to dry. Once the paintwork is smooth does it have any scratches or swirling in the laquer ? If not you are a lucky soab and move on to the final stage. 5. I do not use any of the usual polishes available from the usual outlets, 90% of it is crap ( my opinion ). I use Harly Wax it is 100% No1 yellow carnuba wax ( the best ) and the results are outstanding. Application by a damp natural sponge and removal by a microfibre cloth. They quote that waxing your car should last 6 months but realistically more like 3 - 4 months if your car lives outside. If you think all the above can be done in less than 4 hours you are a better man than me and deserve a medal. 
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#22
22-05-2012
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claying wont remove paint blisters and if it does it will leave a hole were the top coat has lifted, dont waste your time and money,
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#23
22-05-2012
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They could be water spots from hard water deposits even, in which case clay bar will remove them. They could also be where grit has eteched the surface of the lacquer. There is many possibilities. Try the clay bar, they cost peanuts  heres a guide on water spots, they can happen on the surface and below the surface. http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ve-Water-Spots might not be this problem though, check the pics against your car, theres loads more on google, some look really similar to yours.
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#24
22-05-2012
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Here's my 2p as someone who worked in a BMW bodyshop:
Claying as great. However, the ONLY way to solve your contaminant in the paint (and that is 100% what the problem is) is to respray it, preferably from bear metal to guarantee all contaminants are removed. We used to suffer this problem with well polished cars and bad prep work...
__________________
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#25
22-05-2012
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Quote:
POST ONE DAN SAID HE HAD TRIED POLISH AND DOESNT LOOK LIKE SURFACE MARKS.
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#26
22-05-2012
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Quote:
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#27
22-05-2012
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Hi,
I had a look at it tonight, whilst there is some surface crap it doesn't seem to align to the marks at all. I had a go on it with some autoglym colour restorer and it did nothing so am resigned to ignoring it (respray isn't really on the cards as unless it's just washed clean it doesn't look that noticeable most of the time. Chris, it gets washed with some fairly general wash/max stuff from Halfords, always dried with one of those drying towels and infrequently polished with autoglym super resin polish. There's no chance I'm making this problem is there? Lastly there are a number of power stations near us and it's more noticeable here than anywhere I've lived than the car can get dirty after a few days just sitting outside and not being driven 
__________________
 Nortech is ACE!
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#28
23-05-2012
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Quote:
Pretty sure the rain water will get contaminated from power stations to an extent. By the way I'm not just spouting random stuff, I'm a pretty well educated 29 y/o and currently study at one of the top universities did a good bit of reading on this for you. Too much free time at this time of year.....
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#29
23-05-2012
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Quote:
Claying is good, but not for your paintwork. Claying is good for removing all surface contamination, such as tar spots, bird crap, bugs and even wax - ready to start again with a polish and a wax. Never clay and leave it, claying strips everything. I find claying leaves light scratches - so I only do it if I must, only before a good machine polish.... but what you have got is beneath the surface clear coat, it'll be in the red base coat which you can't get to.
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#30
23-05-2012
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We live near power stations here dan and working as a car painter for a long time for many manufacturers I have never seen this effect coming from them. You might get something they call fallout from time to time. This is like very small hard black spots that sit on the surface of the paint.
I'm taking a guess at this, but when you polish your car, does any red come off on the cloth? I doubt it. This will mean the car is lacquered and the problem you have is beneath it. No way of polishing, flaying or any other detailing method of removing problem. Best suggestion I can say is to go to a body shop for a quote and see what they say from seeing the problem in the flesh. Hth
__________________
~ICON-RC~ATOMIC CARBON~LMR~TONISPORT~NUCLEAR RC~
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#31
24-05-2012
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Quote:
Really appreciated everyones responces.
__________________
Nortech is ACE!
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#32
24-05-2012
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Just as an after thought here has it been splashed deliberately or accidentally by something else ? Brake Fluid ? Some other paint hating chemical ?
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