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FS2 Rear suspension binding
I have a 2nd hand FS2 which I haven't yet raced. (meant to be tomorrow....)
When bought, the rear wishbones were different, - only one had the mounting for an anti-roll bar. Since reading recommendations about mounting the shocks on the rear of the wishbones, I've done so, & replaced the wishbones with LA255. The left driveshaft is now binding badly....presumably on the diff carrier nut. I've tried filing a bit of the d/shaft making contact,- still no use. Are these the wrong wishbones for an FS2? |
#2
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you need la272 mate
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#3
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#4
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Make sure you have the right inner sus' mounts
__________________
MOST important don't crash. Kyosho DB1 Kyosho Vega RB5 GenII Kyosho RB 6.7 MB MODELS www.rccarshop.co.uk www.ghostrc.co.uk |
#5
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An FS2 should have the aluminium mounts (LAW36 & LAW37).
ALL the rear wishbones have the ARB mount moulded in but it is easy to snap this off when removing the rear roll bar. I personally would say your better off running without a rear ARB than trying to use the older style wishbones. I don't run an ARB as part of my standard setup as most tracks in the west midlands region are like the surface of the moon so I can assure you the car can be made to drive very well with out one fitted! |
#6
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Okaydoke chaps, thanks. On closer inspection I realised that the w/bone without the lug had had one.....snapped off. And I did have an LA272 pack......now on the car.
I've given the car a buzz on a bit of grass, so far reasonable......bit of transmission slippage for a few metres, but brakes ok. The front diff was quite a bit looser than the rear, so tightened a bit. The rear sounds a bit rough, so maybe a rebuild required. I noticed when first working on the car that the slipper was tightened leaving more than the 14mm measurement in the manual. It's a used car, but not much,- does the slipper wear much if not properly adjusted.....? I do have spare bits, but didn't want to go gung-ho without having tried the car. |
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Check out my car tomorrow if you want, will be racing my FS2. I should have wishbones as well if you need them. Don't worry about ARB, don't use them.
Run the car std, only thing I would say is worth adding is the napalm bracket.
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Kyosho ZX6 Kyosho FS2 Kyosho RB6 Kyosho DB1 Kyosho DB2 Kyosho Turbo Ultima Kyosho Optima Schumacher Atom NORA - Northern Off-Road Arena - www.ddrcc.co.ukTrader Feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49044 |
#8
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I tried to upgrade from FS to FS2 and encountered the same problems as described. I tried to put on an RB5 SP rear end to the car hoping it would make it FS2 spec...
Is the binding down to the difference between the plastic FS and LAW36/ 37 aluminium parts? In other words, are the alu parts 'wider' to prevent binding? Thanks, Michael |
#9
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Ok, here goes (I think)
To go to the FS2 you need the wide mounts (either plastic or LAW36/37 set wide .. Bout and Fout being the kit standard). LA272 wishbones (or Um521 ... NOT LA255, UM503 etc.) 65.5mm dogbones AND the short axles that don't use a spacer The UM519-1 plastic hubs or the UM516-0 aluminium hubs That will get you to FS2 spec. If your FS was converted from an SP or earlier car you can not use the plastic hinge pin mounts as they are too narrow, only genuine FS plastic parts or the LAW36/37 aluminium wones can be used. I found that going from FS to FS2 required a very different setup on the front end of the car such is the extent of the change at the rear end ... adding the big bores made another set change in geometry at both ends of the car. The results though I have to say are simply out of this world. Too good to be true? Not in this case ... believe guys .. believe |
#10
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Quote:
So (like I already thought) I'll need the newer, wider mounts at the rear to finish the upgrade. Thanks for the help! |
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