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#21
17-09-2012
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the battery is the same as the one i use.. if anything when the battery is fully charged on mine it's registering at about 8.42 volts.
Try balancing the battery rather than just charging. You should when charging or balancing the battery notice the battery charge is quite high & then the current will gradually drop as the battery charges until it practically drops to next to nothing before the charger starts beeping & shuts itself off. if it starts quite low (starts charging at 0.5amps or below on a 4000mah charge), this indicates the battery hasn't had much use since it's last charge, so stop the charger & you should get another 5 minutes out of the battery before it needs to be recharged. Also with a LiPo don't be tempted to re-peak the battery - i.e. charge it fully, let it stand then before you go out & play give it a quick charge just to top it up - with a LiPo you should never do this. As well as this don't store the battery charged.. your charger should have a charge option for storage if not, run the car for a few minutes & then put the battery away & recharge fully the next time you go out with the car, best to do it immediately before putting the shell on & going out rather than letting the battery stand. I know it sounds daft but the battery could be what's causing the cars ESC to act all wonky, if you have a regular 7.2v NiMH or NiCad stick pack, just try it & see if it will work - always worth keeping a stick pack handy if only to test for problems such as this & they are cheap enough these days as nobody wants them, if it does work on a stick pack we have eliminated the ESC problem & possibly also any radio issue but pointed the fault at the battery.
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#22
17-09-2012
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I still think you will do well to find a local club, I know it ain't that easy. There is good advice on here, even if you can run for 1hr6min please don't, you will burn out your motor, they can get quite warm after 5minutes, let the car cool between runs. Also never leave the battery connected to the electrics when storing the car, just pull the deans apart, we have all seen over discharged/unrecoverable batteries - "I switched it off, honest" yea we know.
Good cars, great value, most change the esc/motor combo after a while, new combo may cost more than original rtr car !!
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#23
17-09-2012
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Thanks agian for the advice guys.
I will time use and charge time as suggested. I have also been advised that I should get rid of the ESC to battery convertor lead, and fit a Deans onto the ESC. Also going to fit a fan, and reset the ESC. Any ideas for a good battery that will fit no problems!?? It might need to be rounded, have Deans and a balance lead to fit the charger I have (link on other page)? 4000+, 25C+? Cheers
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#24
18-09-2012
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I use a Turnigy 5000mah (5.0) which is spot on. Not sure you can still get them but the 4.0 is still available on egay. The 6.0 is a bit tall.
http://tinyurl.com/9zr43jl
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#25
19-09-2012
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try vapex, they do a decent 4000 2s Lipo that will fit a treat.
http://www.vapextech.co.uk/acatalog/...Batteries.html
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#26
19-09-2012
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Well, an update!
Ansmann have been really helpful, and offered to collect the car to investigate the flashing light on the ESC. I opted to try a program card to reset the settings, which they sent to me. The also sent a fan, which I fitted at the same time. Following both of these steps, after a short test this evening, all appears to be working well now! I will look into the battery recommendations - thanks. Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply to the thread, and help me. Just looking to see what upgrades I can get for the Mad Monkey now! Towers? Diff balls coming, uprated idler gears fitted. Bearings ready to replaced bushings Anyone know where I can get the short parts that fit where the shocks mount at the top of the towers. The screw goes through the tower, this part and then the shock. Std are black plastic, quite fancy green - I think I've seen them on the X2C. Thanks again!
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#27
20-09-2012
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I use hpi saddles in my x2c and they are the best value for money, high mah and one of the highest constant c rating at 95c
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#28
20-09-2012
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Quote:
1) bearing kit (if you haven't already) + ceramic diff balls. 2) adjustable turnbuckles (part number 125000533) 3) better shocks. any other upgrades, you can use pretty much any part from or that fits the X2c except the chassis plate, shell & battery strap as it's a different battery layout with a narrower chassis than the monkey, unless you wanted to run the X2c chassis configuration but this would mean a change of batteries from brick type battery packs to saddle pack - in which case it may be easier to just buy the X2c if you are also considering better shocks, etc as all the come with the X2c as standard. On the point of shocks, ideally you want 75mm shocks on the front & 95mm on the rear.. the X2 / X2c shocks will fit straight on the monkey & are pretty much made specifically for the car, but can be expensive unless you drop on some 2nd hand ones, a cheap alternative I suggest is to buy the regular Ansmann metal bodied shocks (part number 201000037 for the 75mm for the front & 201000039 for the 95mm rear) & put the kit shock innards into them basically replacing the weak plastic shock body for the stronger metal one but stick with the other parts from the kit including the springs as the ones that come on the metal shocks are rock hard. Also consider drilling out the holes in the pistons to 1.4mm, this will help as well as you can run thicker oil in the shocks (rather than that 20wt oil that comes in the kit) up to 40wt to soak up the bumps nicely but ideally you want a 30wt oil in the front & a 25 in the rear if running the upgrades or the X2 shocks as a good all-rounder. With a bit of tinkering the kit shocks with upgraded alloy bodies can be almost as good as the X2/X2c pro shocks, the big difference being you won't have an adjustable tuning ring with infinite tuning but have to use c spacers to adjust them & they are a bit more of a faff to fill with oil as there is no bleed hole, but if you are not bothered about that, for about £20 you can improve the car no end. The stand-offs for the shocks should be available from anywhere who deals with Ansmann the stand-offs are part number 125000462 - both the same part number for the pro or the blingy ones so i'm guessing they will supply the blingy ones & the plastic ones are just included with the non x spec car kits. Really these parts have no performance benefit being metal or plastic, all the metal ones do is offer more strength if you run firmer shocks & add a bit of bling. You will need these if you are using the Ansmann pro shocks or the standard kit shocks, any other shocks from another car (such as associated, Losi etc) you may need to use the standard mount that is bespoke to those shocks possibly with a spacer behind to offset the top of the shock so they run parallel & don't foul on the shock tower or so the spring rubs on the tie-rods.
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#30
25-09-2012
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One thing I am struggling with, getting the correct length stainless steel screws....
I got a kit from RC Racing, but several sizes were missing, as they supply the next closest. However, in some cases the next size up is too long, and the next shortest too short (i.e. b/box to motor plate - the suggested alternative is too long, and catches the gear behind)! Same with several other suppliers I have contacted - M3x22 and M3x27 appear to be non standard sizes, and impossible to source. Any ideas, thanks!
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