General car setups

[OneKiwi]

I was going to post this in the general section but thought Im not the interested in other buggys and it may differ so this is more for general durango car setups. 210 and 410

I know that setups are different from person to person but for a noob like myself whats the general setups, I mean how should it feel. This is mailny shocks I suppose,
I race with people that have been doing this at least half their lives 10-20 + years, this in now my 2nd summer racing and feel miles behind.

I am english speaking and living in Sweden so would be good sometimes to get things in english, might stick in my head that way

2WD fronts a bit harder than the rears but both feeling consistent

4WD is it the same or not as much of a difference between the F+R just the rears being a little softer

Thanks

[TonyM]

My set-ups for a mediocre club racer (that's me) for a large mainly astro track medium to high grip are:-
210
Front 35wt, Purple Springs, 6x1.2 pistons
Rear 30wt, Light Red Springs, 6x1.3 pistons

410
Front 40wt, Dark Red Springs, 6x1.2 pistons
Rear 30wt, Black Springs, 6x1.3 pistons

[OneKiwi]

Thanks Ill have a look at your setup, but Im not really after a setup just general advice that can be passed on to people even newer than me

I have the hudy set up book that is really nicely explained but is more to 1/8th 4wd off road, although some things can be applied to 2wd in some instances and to 4wd 1/10th.

Didn't associated do a book for their B4??

Found it here

[s22jgs]

Not sure about the 410 but to be honest the kits springs on the 210 are all u need. I don't get why people are running stiffer front springs when the car needs a bit more steering. But then I run without weight.

The kit setup is pretty good really.

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by s22jgs

Not sure about the 410 but to be honest the kits springs on the 210 are all u need. I don't get why people are running stiffer front springs when the car needs a bit more steering. But then I run without weight.

The kit setup is pretty good really.

I run stiffer springs to help stop grip role on our high grip track. Also, I like to use the in-line setting on my steering, so even with stiff springs I have more than enough steering. And, the stiffer rear compensates for the stiffer front - neutralising the effect of taking away steering.

[RichyUK]

Originally Posted by TonyM

I run stiffer springs to help stop grip role on our high grip track. Also, I like to use the in-line setting on my steering, so even with stiff springs I have more than enough steering. And, the stiffer rear compensates for the stiffer front - neutralising the effect of taking away steering.

When you mention in line steering do you mean the front axles? What is the effect of moving them back or forth?

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by RichyUK

When you mention in line steering do you mean the front axles? What is the effect of moving them back or forth?

It changes the wheelbase and weight distribution.... In theory the further forward you move them the more aggressive the steering should be

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by TonyM

I run stiffer springs to help stop grip role on our high grip track. Also, I like to use the in-line setting on my steering, so even with stiff springs I have more than enough steering. And, the stiffer rear compensates for the stiffer front - neutralising the effect of taking away steering.

Holy crap it must be grippy if u get grip roll. I've not managed it once yet.

I think In general most people run stiffer springs. I've not found a need for it yet personally.....I haven't even bought any yet lol. No doubt I will though lol

[RichyUK]

Originally Posted by s22jgs

It changes the wheelbase and weight distribution.... In theory the further forward you move them the more aggressive the steering should be

Cool cheers

[s22jgs]

It does also reduce rear grip from what I have found

[av4625]

stiffer springs will give u more grip roll if you are getting grip roll that means ur car is to stiff and not rolling if you raise the camber links or put on softer springs this will let ur car roll more and reduce grip roll. stiffer springs on the front anyway will give you more aggressive steering which is good for 2wd and make your car more twichy it is hard to drive a 4wd with stiff springs on a grippy surface and it is much easier to drive on grippy surfaces with softer springs. but for 2wd stiff springs will work as you need it a little more twichy than it is hope this helps.
for the inline thingy so if you move the hubs closer to the front this will give you more aggressive steering? how do u get the more aggressive steering where do you put the washers? and what insert do you need as i need as much steering as possibe for tomoro as im driving 2wd on polished floor

[av4625]

Ok i found this on the TD website? "The DEX210 as per kit set-up comes with the front axles in maximum trailing. This gives the front of the car the most feel and is the easiest to drive. The further forward you put the front axle to more aggressive the car becomes on initial turn in, this can help you to make the car ‘pivot’ more on entry to a corner when grip is low and steering is at a premium. When you move the axle forward in the block by use of the inserts, remember to move the 4 wishbone inserts which space the c-hub in the wishbone.

The Rule of thumb is however much trail you have you must have the same number of 1mm spacers behind the C-hub."

So if your axel is 4mm trailing you need 4mm behing the c hub and if its 3mm trialing you need 3mm behind the c hub and 1mm in front etc etc.

So if your axel is inline how many spacers do u need were? by the sounds of things you need all your spacers (4mm) in front of the c hub or do you put them behind it to try and make it as far forward as possible?

the more aggressive steering i can get the better because it is really hard to get steering on polished floor, im trying rear motor this week. but i would also like to try this!

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by av4625

Ok i found this on the TD website? "The DEX210 as per kit set-up comes with the front axles in maximum trailing. This gives the front of the car the most feel and is the easiest to drive. The further forward you put the front axle to more aggressive the car becomes on initial turn in, this can help you to make the car ‘pivot’ more on entry to a corner when grip is low and steering is at a premium. When you move the axle forward in the block by use of the inserts, remember to move the 4 wishbone inserts which space the c-hub in the wishbone.

The Rule of thumb is however much trail you have you must have the same number of 1mm spacers behind the C-hub."

So if your axel is 4mm trailing you need 4mm behing the c hub and if its 3mm trialing you need 3mm behind the c hub and 1mm in front etc etc.

So if your axel is inline how many spacers do u need were? by the sounds of things you need all your spacers (4mm) in front of the c hub or do you put them behind it to try and make it as far forward as possible?

the more aggressive steering i can get the better because it is really hard to get steering on polished floor, im trying rear motor this week. but i would also like to try this!

Think of it as keeping the axel in the same position if you were to take a side picture. If u move it forward 1mm via the insert, you need to move the hub back 1mm by moving 1 shim to in front of the hub......so if you want to run full inline you want 4mm behind on the insert, and 4mm of shims in front of the hub

[av4625]

Originally Posted by s22jgs

Think of it as keeping the axel in the same position if you were to take a side picture. If u move it forward 1mm via the insert, you need to move the hub back 1mm by moving 1 shim to in front of the hub......so if you want to run full inline you want 4mm behind on the insert, and 4mm of shims in front of the hub

I dont understand how this does any thing if its in the same location?

so to get inline put the insert in like it shows in the durango site and put the 4mm spacers towards the front of the car if you are looking at it as a side view.

btw thanks for the help!!!

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by av4625

stiffer springs will give u more grip roll if you are getting grip roll that means ur car is to stiff and not rolling if you raise the camber links or put on softer springs this will let ur car roll more and reduce grip roll. stiffer springs on the front anyway will give you more aggressive steering which is good for 2wd and make your car more twichy it is hard to drive a 4wd with stiff springs on a grippy surface and it is much easier to drive on grippy surfaces with softer springs. but for 2wd stiff springs will work as you need it a little more twichy than it is hope this helps.
for the inline thingy so if you move the hubs closer to the front this will give you more aggressive steering? how do u get the more aggressive steering where do you put the washers? and what insert do you need as i need as much steering as possibe for tomoro as im driving 2wd on polished floor

I always work on the assumption that the stiffer the body the less grip role you get. This is why with the 410 people use the metal side pods and graphite rear tension bar, rather than the plastic ones when grip is very high. Also, when I want more grip I go softer on the springs. Perhaps I'm defeating physics, but it seems to work for me.

[Andyp]

Originally Posted by av4625

I dont understand how this does any thing if its in the same location?
!!

The axle is not in the same location to where it pivots when you move the oval inserts, you only move the 1mm shims/spacers compensate do the wheel base stays the same, although you could alter that too !

HTH

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by Andyp

The axle is not in the same location to where it pivots when you move the oval inserts, you only move the 1mm shims/spacers compensate do the wheel base stays the same, although you could alter that too !

HTH

I have tried both, with and wthout moving the hub spacers. By not moving the spacers you get an increased effect on the steering, but at the expense of rear end grip.

[av4625]

Originally Posted by TonyM

I always work on the assumption that the stiffer the body the less grip role you get. This is why with the 410 people use the metal side pods and graphite rear tension bar, rather than the plastic ones when grip is very high. Also, when I want more grip I go softer on the springs. Perhaps I'm defeating physics, but it seems to work for me.

But if you think of it the stiffer the car is it will grip roll easier if you let the car roll on the suspension it wont grip roll as easy. this is the case for high grip astro btw. if your on dirt or polished wood or somfin the softer the spring it will giv u more grip. you dont want your car to be stiff on high grip astro unless ur a really good driver. it is much easier to drive if the car is softer and has more roll. it is also easier to push and is less twitchy if it is softer. hope this helps.

[av4625]

if you lengthen the wheelbase at the front with the inline axel will that also giv more steering or do u want a shorter wheelbase? a shorter wheelbase sounds like it will work better to get more steering?

[s22jgs]

I found if you lengthen the wheelbase solely using the axels the rear loses grip