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#1
03-05-2012
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A couple of issues with my 210
hi everyone, me and a fellow racer at the club are having some issues with our rango's the first is the rear wheels somtimes just one rear wheel getting clogged up with grass inside the wheel and around the hub and causing handling issues, not sure if anyone else has had this problem?? there seems to be very little clearance between the wheel and hub any solutions will be a great help!! thought about grinding some more clearance but dont want to make the part to weak.
the second is air in the shocks i cant seem to get rid of it all no matter what i try by playing with toy cars for 20 about years and not had this problem before i must be missin summit proper obvious or old age is alot worse than i thought! thanks in advance if anyone can help with these issues cheers john 
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#2
03-05-2012
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Grass inside the rear wheel is a common problem to all buggies, the only thing you can try is to make a grass/dirt shield on the front of the rear wishbone.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#3
03-05-2012
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The shocks are supposed to have a small amount of air in them. I build mine as follows and they seem fine:
1) Fill body 1/2 full with oil. Pump the piston so that releases any air underneath. Dont allow it to break the surface of the oil. 2) Leave to stand for 2-3 minutes (this allows the air bubbles to break the surface) 3) Top up with oil so so it forms a slight "dome" at the top. 4) Remove the bleed screw from the cap. Add a little oil into the cap. 5) Screw the cap on fully. 6) Fully compress the shock. Oil should come out of the bleed hole. 7) Reinsert the bleed screw whilst the shock is still compressed. Wipe up excess oil. Done! If this differs from your procedure and you are getting lots of air in the shock, something must be wrong elsewhere... HTH 
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#4
03-05-2012
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Quote:
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AE SC10 4x4 TD DEX210 TD DESC210
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#5
03-05-2012
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the shocks do seem to allow a fair bit of air in through the seals at the shock bottom.
I just dont build them until the morning of racing and seems to help.
__________________
Stephen Smith Answer RC Team HB Racing | Team Orion | Xpert | Racing Experience
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#6
03-05-2012
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I build my shocks like above wen u are bleeding hold the shocks vertical, i no the bleed screw is on the side but if u look inside the cap the channel to the bleed screw goes up the very centre then thrns to the side and if you build lik that u shud get no air because that is wat i do and i dont get any air
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#7
04-05-2012
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Quote:
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#8
04-05-2012
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+1 for Toby's reply.
I also smear a little AE green slime around the 'O' rings when I first build my shocks and I find that they remain in top condition for at least six full race sessions.
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Tony Mulligan DESC410R, DEX410, DEX210, Cream Extreme (the dog's b******s) www.srcc.co.uk
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#10
04-05-2012
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i tried mine in one of those shock sucker pump things...
it seemed to suck the air trapped in the sealed container up through the shock bottoms which leads me to think no matter how hard you try to get perfect shocks, they will end up taking in some after built anyway.
__________________
Stephen Smith Answer RC Team HB Racing | Team Orion | Xpert | Racing Experience
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#11
04-05-2012
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All shocks need to have some air in them, to allow for the displacment of the shaft. Easier to compress air than it is oil
Or the use of a diaphragm.
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Team Durango
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