DEX 210 Building Tips/Issues - Page 5

mikeyscott · #81 15-10-2011

Two of them went on with screw other two I had to lightly sand v top of shaft. No all on

mikeyscott · #82 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aran

They are very tight, they do fit on though, just need a little bit of encouragement

Think that's my prob as I am no brute with kit builds

graveltrap · #83 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big G

Step 6, screwing the ball stud into the tower straight was nearly impossible and always seemed to be at a slight angle. I tapped the threads with a grub screw on a 1.5mm driver which allowed me to get in near enough straight and then popped the ball stud in without a problem.

This was the worst part of the build for me because I did not have the right tool for the job, a ball ended driver, it result in a broken ball stud, my fault but be warned!

I also sat and pondered the inserts for a while, still not sure what rear toe I've got!!

Anyone figured out a good place for the massive SP capacitor, I am looking at fixing it to the rear gearbox brace somehow?

Andyp · #84 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Think that's my prob as I am no brute with kit builds

it been the same in all my TD kits , i just put the washer over an old bearing or nut, place the shock shaft over the whole in the washer and give it a tap with something heavy i have to hand , usually a pair of pliers !

Dont be shy, you cant really break anything !

4_cell_racer · #85 15-10-2011

I also had problem with the small washers, so used a needle files to open them up a bit, still a tight fit but at least they fit now

andys · #86 15-10-2011

Built mine, no real problems... But

The steering looks like it could be problematic. On the bench, the steering can 'jam' at either end of maximum travel, this seems to be due to the fact that as the steering moves, just before full lock, the hub linkage angle causes the linkage to 'flip' and kind of lock into position. I've tried limiting travel to get close to the 'flip' point, but obviously now I'm not getting full lock.

If you try your car in he bench, put full steering to one side, the try to move the 'inside' wheel (as you would be turning the car on the ground) youll see there's loads of play around his maximum angle, and you can feel the point as the angle over reaches and causes the steering to jam.

Would be interested to know if anyone else had noted / fixed this, or if its not an issue, just conscious in a bump, the steering could be forced to this maximum lock position and could jam up !!!

4_cell_racer · #87 15-10-2011

I've noticed the same with the steering...... But I've yet to fit the rest of my electrics :-/ so cannot say if it still the same once everything is powered up

mikeyscott · #88 15-10-2011

Slowly coming together, finding turnbuckles really hard work even with a bit of grease. Then they pop off when you try and adjust them on the car..!

raymondkerr · #89 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Slowly coming together, finding turnbuckles really hard work even with a bit of grease. Then they pop off when you try and adjust them on the car..!

I found a similar problem with the turnbuckles, when I try to adjust them on the car, they pop off. I also noticed with the rear ones, the manual says 10mm but when I put the wheels on, there was far to much camber, so I adjust the rods a little longer at 12mm each side and it seems to look better.

I struggled getting my staggers onto the front rims, so I think it will be best to cut the rims down to the slim width.

Running the car tomorrow for the first time on high grip carpet with lots of jumps, see how it goes.

mikeyscott · #90 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by raymondkerr

I found a similar problem with the turnbuckles, when I try to adjust them on the car, they pop off. I also noticed with the rear ones, the manual says 10mm but when I put the wheels on, there was far to much camber, so I adjust the rods a little longer at 12mm each side and it seems to look better.

I struggled getting my staggers onto the front rims, so I think it will be best to cut the rims down to the slim width.

Running the car tomorrow for the first time on high grip carpet with lots of jumps, see how it goes.

Great, I thought the new ball cups were suppose to be better

Looking for an R10 PRo ESC now too.

TonyM · #91 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by andys

Built mine, no real problems... But

The steering looks like it could be problematic. On the bench, the steering can 'jam' at either end of maximum travel, this seems to be due to the fact that as the steering moves, just before full lock, the hub linkage angle causes the linkage to 'flip' and kind of lock into position. I've tried limiting travel to get close to the 'flip' point, but obviously now I'm not getting full lock.

If you try your car in he bench, put full steering to one side, the try to move the 'inside' wheel (as you would be turning the car on the ground) youll see there's loads of play around his maximum angle, and you can feel the point as the angle over reaches and causes the steering to jam.

Would be interested to know if anyone else had noted / fixed this, or if its not an issue, just conscious in a bump, the steering could be forced to this maximum lock position and could jam up !!!

Woops, just tried it fully powered up and the steering easily locks over with the servo unable to return it to neutral. I've had to turn my EPA right down to avoid this happening. I reckon the steering is now only operational for about 60% of full lock. I'm taking full lock to be when the steering arm just touches the suspension arm. This can't be right!!!

Robocop · #92 15-10-2011

So wont the speedpassion fit is that what youre saying

mikeyscott · #93 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robocop

So wont the speedpassion fit is that what youre saying

Didn't say that, just prefer the fit of an R10..

tyreman · #94 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Great, I thought the new ball cups were suppose to be better

Looking for an R10 PRo ESC now too.

Mine are fine use the black grease on the thread and they fit great

mikeyscott · #95 15-10-2011

Same grease I have also tried..

Northy · #96 15-10-2011

When you build the turnbuckles use plenty of black grease on the threads and then build them in your hands so they are quite a bit shorter than they need to be, then back them off to the right length again before fitting them to the car. They should be a lot easier to adjust on the car then.

The original ones on the DEX410 could push on and shorten in a big crash, so these ones are tight on the threads for a reason.

G

mikeyscott · #97 15-10-2011

Going to take the TBs apart and start again

I've used lots of black grease and no diff

At present they won't last a slight bump

JamesRumble · #98 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Going to take the TBs apart and start again

I've used lots of black grease and no diff

At present they won't last a slight bump

Hi Mikey
When I built my 410 and I suspect the same will be true of the 210, I ran a tap through one of the ball joints, this allows you to adjust without the ball popping off, but is still stiff enough not to undo itself. Got the tap of ebay for a couple of quid.

andys · #99 15-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyM

Woops, just tried it fully powered up and the steering easily locks over with the servo unable to return it to neutral. I've had to turn my EPA right down to avoid this happening. I reckon the steering is now only operational for about 60% of full lock. I'm taking full lock to be when the steering arm just touches the suspension arm. This can't be right!!!

Glad it's not just me ! I've Tripple checked everything.

Surprised no one else has noticed this....

WHITTLER555 · #**100** 15-10-2011

No problem with mine Andy? I am using a Savox servo with the kit 25T horn, i have had to turn down the EPA but only because the servo was buzzing its tits off!

I have put the steering link in the rear ackerman setting, maybe that is what is different?