Durango Technical Section

ben27111973 · #1 05-09-2009

Hi Guys

Been searching for some technical answers around the DEX410

What are the piston hole sizes in the kit?

what is the internal drive ratio?

Adam Skelding · #2 05-09-2009

Both pistons are 1.2mm holes (Just 3 hole and 2 hole).

Internal ratio: 2.47:1

samd · #3 06-09-2009

Do you know the spring rates against the part numbers Adam?

Arn0 · #4 06-09-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by samd

Do you know the spring rates against the part numbers Adam?

You can get them here

Alex H · #5 13-09-2009

Are the shock their own or is it actually some other brand?

Adam Skelding · #6 14-09-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex H

Are the shock their own or is it actually some other brand?

The shocks are Durango's own brand, they are not made by anyone else.

Alex H · #7 14-09-2009

Okey, thanks. How do they hold their oil?

. Tired of leaking shocks. Guess they are just as good as the rest of the car.

jimmy · #8 14-09-2009

They hold the oil fine if you threadlock the screws that hold the pistons on

GRIFF55 · #9 14-09-2009

ha ha

, mine seem to be leak free too and it stuck some big landings yesterday

woodey · #10 17-09-2009

I had the first run of mine last night, indoors on a polished wooden floor. And after a couple of tweeks got a car I could really attack with.

I did notice the slipper adjustment nut was rubbing on the battery strap, and had actually worn a groove round it. On closer inspection I worked out that the peice of foam supplied to put between the Lipo's was pushing the packs too far apart. This was actually pushing the front retaining strap up, due to the chamfer where it meets the top of the pack.

The solution was to remove the foam and replace it with a smaller peice but between the front lipo and the front retaining strap. Essentially the lipos butt together and are pushed towards the back of the car. I was using the Demon 4200's.

I am also using 0.7mm shims on the rear suspension to provide free movement.

maxoo · #11 17-09-2009

Personally I added some washers:

GRIFF55 · #12 17-09-2009

I can see why on the steering maxoo, but why on the rear shafts?? Even at full droop mine haven't popped out.(YET)ha ha
Have you done the sexy massami shell yet???

DCM · #13 17-09-2009

possibly to remove end float, on the shaft, Andy?

maxoo · #14 17-09-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by GRIFF55

I can see why on the steering maxoo, but why on the rear shafts?? Even at full droop mine haven't popped out.(YET)ha ha
Have you done the sexy massami shell yet???

I added rear shims, because if I didn't use these, the "WHEEL CONE REAR" moved a lot, the axle is a little too long

Of course a "sexy Masami body shell" !!!

Alex H · #15 17-09-2009

Anybody considering useing GHEA pistons in the dampers?

jimmy · #16 17-09-2009

I considered it and even screwed them onto the shaft during the review to see if they would fit. I didn't try them though so I'm not sure if they work or not.

maxoo · #17 17-09-2009

I did this:

I'm not sure for the Durango Front light red, because I didn't found the value so I putted "~".

ben27111973 · #18 20-09-2009

Ran the car all day today at st ives.

Sensational.

Michael and I both hoped it would be within 0.5 Sec of our laps from the club series meet a few weeks ago. We defined that as success.

Ran a couple of practice packs, changed front shock oil and played around with the diffs with 3 different setups f/r.

Result was the car was 0.5 sec faster than the fastest lap at the club series round. It was able to do 24.5 as the best time with high 24's consistenly. It puts the power down so well - in fact so well it is hard on the tyres.

There is defintely merit of the mechanical grip generated by the drivetrain.

Car is more stable in high speed sweepers than the B44 and as forgiving.

My biggest problem is trying to keep the motor cool. First 3 runs were at 180deg... got it down to 158deg in the last two runs but it is still too hot.

Only other issue seems to be the bearings expelling a lot of grease and the car got a lot noiser thorughout the day which seemed to be the bearings squeaking.

I also changed the spur for an associated 87 and had no issues - its a lot quieter than the std one.

Only other tip is to put threadlock on the screw that holds the rear outdrive on the slipper assembly. It does not tell you too in the manual and it came out for all the durango drives today. I picked it up in practice and with a drop of threadlock its fine.

The shock boots are great and the cvd boots work well too.

Car is a weapon.

samd · #19 20-09-2009

Had the same problems myself, lots of grease coming out of the bearings - but i assume they are packed and the transmission came more free as the day went on, and the gearbox noise became smoother. My other problem wasnt keeping the motor cool it was my tekin rs pro getting too hot and cutting out. Running a x12 5.5 with a 20t pinion 50%timing, motor temps about 150/160 and speedo cutting out at 4/5 mins. I had it mounted with the solder posts facing the motor so i hope a little pocket of hot air was keeping the posts hot and overheating the speedo, ive moved it around now so fingers crossed today.
Ben, what diff oils did you try and how did the car change - i have just gone with 6000front and 3000rear not tried anything else yet.
Car just wants to be hammered - impressive - bit faster then my yokomo with yok set up bang on and durango just chucked on track not set up at all

c0sie · #20 20-09-2009

Which diff oil setups did you try fella, and how did each of then perform?

Also, what surface are you running on?