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#41
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If the shock is mounted further out, the shock piston has to move through more oil for the same distance moved by the wheel.
As it takes the same time (in theory) to do it - all things equal - the piston speed must be higher.
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#42
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if the wheel moves 50mm in 1 second and the shock is mounted RIGHT on the outside near the wheel, the piston will move roughly 50mm in 1 second
if the shock is mounted half way along the wishbone, the piston will only move roughly 25mm but it will still take 1 second - 25mm per second so in this extreme (and simple) example, the shock mounted in the 'outer' location has twice the piston speed compared with the inside position for the same wheel speed. **this is an exagerated and simplified example** (G beat me to it)
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Chris Doughty Team Durango |
#43
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and you two understand all this
its a good read- but to be honest im still not and wiser to what it achives the shock location in reffrence to the oil piston combo
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Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#44
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if you don't change the shock location, its fine.
but if you do change the shock location on the arm, it will probably have an effect on the amount of pack you will get. I strongly believe that there are so many things that change when you make a change on a car, sometimes you make a change and it does the oposite of what you think it should do, this is often because when you have changed something, you also change something else without realising it. so moving the shock out on the arm will make the wheel rate stiffer(less leverage over the spring), and it will also increase the piston speed and therefore pack, so which of these changes made the differance? its possible to sit down and think about stuff all day long, best thing is to get out there and see what works in real life. and what works for you might not work for someone else.
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Chris Doughty Team Durango |
#45
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Milzy you may want to read this:-
Click here for Elvo's info on suspension. From this I understand that when tracks get bumpy it is often better to go with the larger piston holes and thicker oil so the packs comes in at faster shock speeds rather than "packing" and therefore throwing the car around . You can still get pack on the large jumps but allow the suspension to work over some of the faster bumps. I often feel I can get a better setup using larger holed pistons than I can with smaller hole pistons but that might be due to the range of oils that I have! I like the larger hole when running my 8th cars as they feel nice and smooth when on the bench but chuck them down real hard and you feel the pack.
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#46
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Quote:
ok so it dosnt matter where i have my shocks mounted on the tower - long as i dont change the shock loaction when changing from pack to non pack shock set up and answer to the retorical question i really dont know - guess the pack made the diffrence?
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Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#47
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Quote:
the long and short of it is, if you are changing pistons and oil to change pack, don't change shock location too else you might end up with the oposite effect on pack than what you actually wanted
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Chris Doughty Team Durango |
#48
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Quote:
can i check 35 number 1 is the no pack and 30 2 is the pack for the b4
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Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#49
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ask Mick Cragg... I never had to change my B4 so I don't even know which AE pistons are the small or the big holes
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Chris Doughty Team Durango |
#50
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Quote:
2 smaller 3 smallesr as kit that is ive got pistons 31 105 in my b4
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Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#51
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Quote:
Mega confused after reading that but I think I got it......... I'm going to have 1 set with red pistons, 1 set with orange pistons & 1 set with blue pistons and change the complete shock as to the track this seems far easier. I'm running Red 27.5wt/30wt, So if I run orange I should look at 32.5/35 and blue 35/37.5 depending on track (large jumps red/orange, bumpy as orange/blue) HOW FAR OFF AM I |
#52
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I'm looking at getting a B44 soon, what is the issue with the standard shocks? Are the Losi shocks much better in practice? Back in the day when I was last racing in the mid-90's the Associated shocks were so-called 'aeration' (probably spelled that wrong) with no diaphagm in the cap, is this still the case (and issue)? If I have to buy the B44 and then get some new shocks that's putting me off a little bit.
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#53
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Think the issue is that some people PREFER working with Losi shocks. The associated ones are excellent also its just personal preference really. When you've practised with the Associated ones, getting all the air out they are great. I prefer the Losi's as I find them quicker and easier to work on plus I like PINK haha. There is not an issue or problem with the Associated shocks though.
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#54
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As Scott has said, you certainly do not NEED the Losi shocks, but some people just choose to use them as personal preference.
If the standard kit B44 shocks were no good all the top AE team drivers wouldnt use them at Nationals Rest assured that the kit shocks are more than adequate
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Previously: BRCA Micro Section Chairman. BRCA Micro National Champion. Currently: JQ fan. Bellend. Forums are better than Facebook groups |
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