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#1
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Novak GTB Soldering issue!
Hello!
Yesterday i was trying to change my wires from the motor to the ESC.(Novak GTB) I got the wires away from the motor, but when i was trying to warm up the soldering on the ESC it didn't work! I got a brand new (soldering iron) yesterday too. It's a soldering iron wich you can rise or lower the temperature, and i tried at 450'C and it wouldn't work! It's the original stock soldering on the esc... Anyone got any idea? Pretty angry about this. Thanks! //Jakob
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Team DurangoDex410
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#2
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It's all about the tip, and you dont want to hold the iron on the board to long as it could damage the circut board.
What watt iron is it and what size is the tip? |
#3
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Well here's a link on how it looks like: http://www.jula.se/professionell-lodstation-125454 It's on swedish so you wont understand but i can do a translation
Professional Soldering iron. Digital display. changeable temperature: 150'C to 450'C. 24 V Soldering pen. length 198mm. retractable cleaning pad for the tip. (Thank you Google translate) But is the factory soldering in some other kind of metall? And not the regular tin? Because the iron work on every other solder but not on this one =( //Jachto
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Team DurangoDex410
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#4
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Hi,
Are you using the tip the same as the picture? If so you really need a tip that looks like this, a chisel head. The tip in the photo is about 6mm in size. I've re-soldering lots of speedos and have never had a difficulty, using a tip similar to the above. What method are you using? Try this. Get the iron up to temperature, 350 - 400C will be more than enough. Melt some solder onto the tip. Then clean off the tip on a wet sponge. Allow the iron a minute or two to come back to temperature. Put fresh solder on the tip. (You should get a small puff of smoke as the flux burns.) Then de-solder the wire from the speedo. Repeat the steps for each wire. This is all assuming that you have the correct size of tip on the iron. Before replacing the wire. Remove as much solder as possible from the PCB (printed circuit board). (But be careful not to over heat the board). Use solder sucker or a solder braid / wick to remove the old solder. Remove some insulation from the new wire. Twist the wire tight. If required trim the wire, so that it fits the hole in the PCB. Hold wire in place on PCB, resolder, feed in enough solder to that it flows up into the wire as well as enough to hold the wire on the PCB. If anything above is not clear just ask. MiCk B. :-)
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http://www.dublinmodelracing.com/ (Off-road racing in Dublin) http://www.p-dubracing.co.uk (Stocking: 8Racing / AVID / GHEA / Xpert Racing / Factory R/C / Alton Design Innovations) http://www.msdmodels.ie/ (Trackside and on-line RC supplies.) |
#5
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The terminals may have a special coating on them. Try rubbing them down with a piece of emery paper first. When going to de-solder the wires make sure you apply some solder to the tip of your iron first. Try to use some copper braid as well.
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#6
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Soldering
To solder anything RC related a 75 + watt soldering iron would be recommended with a large tip to 'hold' the heat. Most modern electronics will use modern lead free solder and this requires you to be a bit quicker with the soldering process.
If in doubt use good old fashioned tin lead solder with a multicore flux. Best technique is to 'wet' the soldering iron tip with new solder and hold against the item you are trying to de-solder. New solder will transfer the heat much more effectively than just an iron tip on its own. Speed is important - if you cannot do a solder joint in under a few seconds you probably need to go for a higher wattage iron with a larger tip than you have and you may cause damage to the electronics by overheating for too long. Good Luck ! |
#7
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Thanks guys!
Sadly i don't got one of those tips... I just got a regular tip like a pensil-shape.. Is it such big diffrence from those tips? I'll try your method first thing tomorrow morning... //Jachto
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Team DurangoDex410
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#8
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soldering
If you only have a pencil tip it probably not be big enough. As per previous post you really need at least a 6mm chisel tip or bigger and rated at a minimum of 60 watts.
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#9
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To confirm, there is nothing special about Novak solder, it's lead free stuff as you'd expect.
And also to confirm your problem is 100% defo tip size. To explain it another way you need a tip with enough size to store the heat so when you connect to the wire and the heat is transmitted the amount of heat stored is enough to melt the joint. The pencil tip is designed for circuit boards where not much is required but on our stuff the wire conducts all the heat away so the large tip has the store it up to overcome this.
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Nortech is ACE! |
#10
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its only recently i have rewired all my novak speedo's, all 5 of them, all went without a hitch,
i used a http://cpc.farnell.com/_/portasol/or.../dp/SAPORTASOL to do the soldering i always put a tiny bit of this on solder i want to melt and put it on joints or wires i want to solder as it is like a solder magnet, http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.ph...ogle/sn/FLU100 in fact i've had my paste for 20 odd years now and its still going |
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