Show us your TLR 22 (Twenty Two) - Page 16

Bob_Zahn · #**301** 17-04-2011

I have another video to share of our 2wd A-main from Thursday night from Ontario, Canada.

The car keeps getting better after having the chance to change a few things like going to 22.5 wt oil front and rear, running 25 degree kickup and 5 degree blocks, and lengthening the front camber link to 1-A.

Car felt very good but had a bit of a high speed push and rear end would kick up on some of the jumps. I would appreciate feedback from anyone on how the car looks on track and any changes you would recommend. I have some tuning springs for front and rear but nothing softer then the kit yellow just yet which is what I think is needed to stop the rear from kicking up like that.

Thanks...here is the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkqmxKWhf04

frogger · #**302** 17-04-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wacker 2

This might sound like a daft question but how are you calculating the weight split???

... two sets of scales front and back... working out the rear weight as a percentage of the overall weight and vice versa? or is there a more accurate way??

Ta, Jon!

eBay sells cheap small scales for about £5 each. I picked up 4 of them which makes life easy. You can also do it with one scale by being a little creative.

fastinfastout · #**303** 17-04-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Southwell

You want to build it, then work how the weight split front to rear, should be 61-65% on the rear. I tend to work around 63% as a basic then fine tune from there. Little things can affect it, 30g on the servo will move mine from 63.4% to 61.5%. No point just slapping weight on the car if you upset the balance.

I have not driven my mid car yet, however from owning an x6 in the past, 65% on the rear seems ideal. My Rear mount is currently at 65%, and my B4's have been on 67% which feel good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulUpton

You want weight as low down as you can get it to start, if there's room up front then why not. I think the speedo mount at the back was a optional location for it anyway.

As for weight at the back, too much weight at the back will only make the car understeer on power, less steering into corner. I'm taking it off mine, car has so much rear end grp you don't need it.

I still think 65% is a good number to aim for, you wont get that with a speedy up front, just my opinion, I don't know what team drivers are doing though.

ianjoyner · #**304** 17-04-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob_Zahn

I have another video to share of our 2wd A-main from Thursday night from Ontario, Canada.

The car keeps getting better after having the chance to change a few things like going to 22.5 wt oil front and rear, running 25 degree kickup and 5 degree blocks, and lengthening the front camber link to 1-A.

Car felt very good but had a bit of a high speed push and rear end would kick up on some of the jumps. I would appreciate feedback from anyone on how the car looks on track and any changes you would recommend. I have some tuning springs for front and rear but nothing softer then the kit yellow just yet which is what I think is needed to stop the rear from kicking up like that.

Thanks...here is the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkqmxKWhf04

It's a bit hard to see in the video, but I think you're running mid-motor? I was getting a bit of high speed push indoors, you maybe want to try coming down on the kick up and leaving the 5 degree blocks in, or shortening the front link again to make it a bit more responsive. I found the push went away when there was more grip, I've not tried back to back, but I've not experienced the push since moving to the HRC rear toe block either.

I've also found the rear of mine popping up a bit, I tried a white spring, it maybe helped a little as did a bit more rear weight. I'm still finding it a general characteristic of the car so far though, one thing that helps is keep the throttle on! I had a style of coasting onto bumps/jumps with my B4 which was fine, but, perhaps it's the motor rotation, coming off the power can cause the rear to lift, keep on the throttle and it stays a lot flatter, even landing with some throttle was helping keep the rear down.

break down sam · #**305** 17-04-2011

Muggydude · #**306** 17-04-2011

Finally got some pics of it! A little rear motor action from across the pond.

Wacker 2 · #**307** 17-04-2011

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68403

break down sam · #**308** 17-04-2011

Has anyone got anytips for setup and stuff?

Bagman · #**309** 17-04-2011

You could hold your camera steady

break down sam · #**310** 17-04-2011

ill get one of it jumping soon

D20MCK · #**311** 17-04-2011

mine in for a quick pit stop today

Southwell · #**312** 18-04-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wacker 2

This might sound like a daft question but how are you calculating the weight split???

... two sets of scales front and back... working out the rear weight as a percentage of the overall weight and vice versa? or is there a more accurate way??

Ta, Jon!

I just do it with one scale. Make sure you can get a completely level surface to the scales, measure front to back, overall and each corner. All results should equal the overall weight.

So for example.

1100 rear weight / 1700 total weight * 100 = 64.7%

Matt-h · #**313** 18-04-2011

D20MCK, where did you get that jack?

Matt

D20MCK · #**314** 18-04-2011

It's not mine, I got a wee loan of it from my cousin just to get some pics. He's a mechanic and he got it from the Snap-on guy that comes around in his van.