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#2441
17-03-2010
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Quote:
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««201, 511&503 
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#2442
18-03-2010
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I have had this happen to me before with the combo of the Atomic Carbon towers with the 3Racing aluminum wing mount..
As much as it may hurt to do, you are going to have to remove the 3Racing wing mount and reinstall the stock plastic mounts.. The 3Racing aluminum mount is just too rigid in combination with the Atomic Carbon towers.. The stock plastic mounts are designed to absorb a good amount of shock and will prevent your rear belt cover from breaking. Quote:
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#2443
19-03-2010
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Quote:
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TRF501X - 201
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#2444
19-03-2010
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Quote:
Car stayed in one piece this time but i think switching back to the plastic wings mounts is indeed for the best. Maybe i'll just paint those blue  But finally a chance to get a few decent laps to get the feel of the car back.
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««201, 511&503
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#2445
22-03-2010
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Quote:
22T pinion is the sweet spot for 8.5t.  Runnin the 8.5 ballistic and its unreal. The gearing is right on the money, did the math a while back. Goin to the track in a few...~DuRgA~ 
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#2446
28-03-2010
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Steering play
After shimming the front axles to try and reduce the amount of play I'm trying to eliminate some of the play that comes from the steering control arms. It's got quite a bit of movement in it already, and just wondering if anyone out there has come across a solution. I know it won't affect how the car performs too much, but I would like to get the car nice and tight.
Any thoughts?
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#2447
30-03-2010
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Hi Guys!
I have a question regarding the pinion and spur gear on my DB01R: i have had a normal brushged motor installed before and now i just installed my new LRP Vector X12 5.5 brushless motor and SXX TC spec esc. When installing the motor and the pinion (original Tamiya 14t pinion) i realized that the mesh of the pinion and the Spur gear (normal stock Db01R Spur gear) is not 100%. If i want to fix the pinion on the rotor correctly i have only about 2/3 mesh of pinion and Spur gear. My question is if that is normal or are there any other pinions that are shorter so that the grub screw can be tighten properly on the rotor and the mesh is 100%? Is it a problem for getting the power on the spur with only a mesh of 2/3? It seems that maybe the rotor is a little too short or the pinion is a little too long. If i would install the pinion the other way round i couldn´t tighten it. Please help! Thanks in advance!
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#2448
30-03-2010
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Hi Muratti,
Might be a good idea to take a pic so we can see. PS. Isn't the 14T a bit undergeared btw? I'm using an 18t pinion on my 6,5 and thinking about switching to 19t and see how my temps hold up.
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««201, 511&503
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#2449
30-03-2010
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Hi Carno, i will try to make a pic this evening. It may be undergeared but i prefer to start undergeared and see how temperature will be with the Durga body. If it is cold i will surely switch to 15t or 16t.
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#2450
30-03-2010
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I managed to upload some pics
 I hope you can see a bit as it´s quite different to makew a picture fo the situation. As you can see the mesh is not 100%, i think it´s only about 70% and this is not the perfect way to secure the pinion with the grub screw, it wqould be better to move it even more away from the spur... 
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#2451
30-03-2010
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I think i've got about the same mesh as you maybe a bit more. I'll have to check tonight anyway cause i'll probably switch to my 19t pinion.
I think it should be fine like this as long as your pinion stays on. Mine has taken quite some abuse last saturday and sunday. One of my motor wires was probably soldered mostly onto the resin and came loose on a landing. But i haven't had any problems with my pinion/spur.
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««201, 511&503
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#2452
30-03-2010
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The problem is the rotor shaft on the X12 is shorter than normal. Seems like an oversight on LRP's part. You can see in the following picture that the bearing housing doesn't stick out as far as normal motors.
 In contrast, some motors don't even have an external bearing housing. But instead they have an extended shaft to make up for it...  Your best bet would be to flip the pinion around screw it down with the motor slightly pulled away from the motor mount. You may be able to slide your 1.5mm hex down between the motor mount and motor to tighten the pinion. Then slide the motor into place to check to see if you have full mesh. It may take a couple tries, but would definitely be better than 2/3 mesh. If that doesn't work, then your stuck with 2/3...
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#2453
30-03-2010
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Many thanks for this advice 95eg! I will try this. I´m sure it will have a better mesh. Good idea
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#2454
30-03-2010
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Make sure to use the 'paper' method when you re-mesh the pinion to the spur. This ensures that the gap between each gear is perfect and will prevent the teeth on your spur gear from getting mangled or worn.
To do this, run a small strip of paper between the gears when you mesh them. Tighten everything down and roll the gears back to remove the paper (as shown).  Quote:
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#2455
31-03-2010
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just wanted to say a quick thanks to everyone in here for any advice you've given me and replies to my questions and just for posting in here in general, with all the tips i was able to build a very reliable and quick car which i just took to the first round of our state interclub series and took the win in 4wd stock, there were almost 40 entrants in the class and some seriously tough competion, i qualified second, missed out on tq by 0.05 of a second then had some very consistant and solid runs in the finals to give me the win overall, the car didnt miss a beat all weekend
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#2456
31-03-2010
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Hi guys, thanks for the advice but i am afraid if i flip the pinion and fix it with the motor not attached the mesh is less than if i put the pinion on the axle as before. So i tried to get it at the absolute maximum end of the rotor axle. I still haven´t got 100% mesh, more about 70-80% but i tried a short run and it seemed fine like this.
I wonder why nobody before had asked this question or is it standard that 100% mesh is not possible on a DB01? Thanks dimblum, i already knew that tip with the paper
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#2457
31-03-2010
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I know it is possible with Novak Brushless motors. I have used 3 different Novak motors and all of them were capable of a 100% mesh.
I think 94eg! was right about the shorter shaft on the LRP motor. Still though, I have never heard of anyone having trouble with a 70-80% mesh. A few guys at the tracks I race at don't have a full mesh with their gearing and they have been running their cars that way for over a year. Quote:
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#2459
02-04-2010
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Yes they are indeed way shorter than normal shafts. Just to let you know i have managed to get a pinion from Robitronic and it works perfectly. I didin´t know that there are such differences in length of the pinions. Now i have 100% mesh
Thanks guys for all your help!
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#2460
08-04-2010
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Quote:
if it is, you're not only a track whore but a forum whore as well p.s leave these poor pommies alone see ya Sunday
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Tamiya
Linear Mode
