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#281
03-04-2011
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I am very new to indoor racing and to be honest i am struggling to keep up now with all the advice on setups  So my question is subjective i know but can you experianced guys give me the changes you would make to my stock 22 built as per instructions for Taplow please. Many Thanks 
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#282
03-04-2011
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Friday at Taplow was the first time I ran my 22 and my setup is not yet 100% dialed so take from it what you will. Shortening the wheelbase made a big improvement for that track. The rear was still stepping out a bit in the corners (possibly due to the 4.5 degree rear toe in). Good steering generally but would very much like a bit of more on power steering.
Mid motor Front: Stock pistons/27.5W/Green spring Shock mounting on tower middle and wishbone middle holes Camber link 1-A, no spacers Camber -2 (will try -1 to -1.5 next time) Toe 0 Narrow Yellow Mini pins with 2 outside rows cut off Rear Short wheelbase Stock pistons/27.5W/Orange spring Shock mounting on tower middle and wishbone inner holes Camber link 2-C, 2mm spacers by the tower and 3mm by the rear hub Camber -2 Toe 4.5 HRC block (will go down to 3 degrees I recon or maybe 3.5) Anti squat 3 degrees Yellow Mini pins 50g weight on the rear 74gr weight under the short lipo Novak Ballistic 6.5 with 19t pinion and stock spur Ride height wishbones level
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#283
03-04-2011
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Defo reduce your rear toe if you want more on-power steering.
Or maybe lengthen the rear link by running in the 1 position on the camber block?
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#284
03-04-2011
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For more power on steering I'd reduce anti squat to 2'. Will give less weight transfer to rear end, will however give a bit more off power steering too
Was helping people on Saturday on moto arena and that was one thing that made a signifficant difference And drill out the pistons, 56 front with 2 extra at 55 and 55 rear with 2 extra at 54. 30w front 27.5w rear. Cars I've felt with kit pistons just feel dead on the table.
__________________
PR Racing - Insideline Racing - Zen Racing - GForce - PureRC - Puppy Paint
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#285
03-04-2011
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Oops, sorry I ment 2-B
Quote:
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http://insidelineracing.co.uk
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#286
03-04-2011
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Quote:
James
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#287
04-04-2011
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Don't know if such a table has already been released, BTW here is mine
 
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http://www.mid44.com/
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#288
04-04-2011
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what figure do we need to be aiming for and how do you work it out,
thanks
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#289
04-04-2011
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The figure you desire is usually a ball park ratio that can be tweaked from track to track. the best place to start with is often found on your motors instruction sheet or the motor manufacturers web site. There is usually a recommended ratio chart referencing winds and class raced.
hth
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proracing Moss Models Associated Reedy DJ KIRKY
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#292
10-04-2011
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I made my own tapered pistons based on kit pistons:
 On high grip grass track, my 22 mid motor seem much consistent with: - 6x#56 holes piston / 35WT / pink spring on rear - 6x#57 holes piston / 35WT / green spring on front Thiner oil (30WT or 32.5WT) could be even better
__________________
http://www.mid44.com/
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#293
10-04-2011
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I confirm, I tested this afternoon the setup with:
- 6x#56 holes piston / 30WT / yellow spring on rear - 6x#57 holes piston / 35WT / green spring on front is even better and combine with long rear camber links the rear end is really predictible out the corners.
__________________
http://www.mid44.com/
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#294
10-04-2011
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22 setup advice needed for clay
Hallo all,
I run the 22 on a clay track with medium grip levels After running about 20 packs I ended up with the setup below (rear motor), I have 100 grams of weight under my lipo. Rear: Oil 25 wt piston 57 2 extra holes drilled 3 mm limiters camberlink short 2mm spacer under ballstud on the hub no spacer under ballstud on de tower damper in the middle hole on the tower. damper in the middle hole on the arm 4 degrees LRC toe in blok 0 degrees antisquat rideheight arms level 1 degree negative camber rear hub forward Front: oil 20 wt piston 54 3 mm limiters in the damper camberlink long 2mm spacer under ballstud on the spindle 1mm spacer under ballstud on the tower damper in the middle hole on the tower. damper in the outer hole on the arm Rideheight level thin kick up shim 1 degree toe in 2 degrees negative camber 10 degree caster blok The car was able to do some fast laps with this setup but it constantly feels on edge. I can't throw the car around, it has grip but looses it without warning. Forward traction is allright as long as the car is perfectly level, I can't get on the gas mid corner. It steps out violently. it jumps allright and the steering is ok. I just don't have traction in the turns and coming out of the turns. If I drive point and shoot style and if I have the patience to wait untill the car is level it is quick but like I said, allmost impossible to drive faultlessly for 6 minutes. I drove someones Tamiya 201 for a direct comparison and I was shocked how much easier this car was to drive. Does anyone have any suggestions? Hans
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#295
10-04-2011
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You considered running it mid motor option ? get a comparison..
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#296
10-04-2011
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Here is what i ran today at Oswestry defently considering tapered pistons. Car was very good but defently felt it could be better.
 Ash
__________________
Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves!
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#297
11-04-2011
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mid motor on clay
Hello all,
Someone gave the suggestion of running the 22 in mid motor config on clay (medium grip), has anyone tried this? I built it rear because I figured that was the best configuration voor those conditions. I'm having rear grip issues currently, sounds to me like those issues will become bigger in mid motor configuration. But I guess it's worth a try. Hans
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#298
11-04-2011
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My updated setup for Taplow as I ran the car on Friday night.
Front: Stock pistons/27.5W/Blue spring Shock mounting on tower middle and wishbone middle holes Camber link 1-A, no spacers Camber -1.5 Toe 0 Narrow Yellow Mini pins with 2 outside rows cut off, green stubby inserts (big one cut in half) Rear Short wheelbase Stock pistons/27.5W/Orange spring Shock mounting on tower middle and wishbone inner holes Camber link 2-C, 2mm spacers by the tower and 3mm by the rear hub Camber -2 Toe 3 HRC block Anti squat 3 degrees Yellow Mini pins, green stubby inserts Mid motor configuration Wing standard 50g weight on the rear 74gr weight under the short lipo Novak Ballistic 6.5 with 19t pinion and stock spur Ride height wishbones level Servo: Spektrum 6070 Sanwa 2.4ghz rx Notes: Car was well balanced and consistent. Good drive out of the corners and better on power steering. Want to try a 3.5HRC block next and the shocks still need rebuilding due to O ring stiction.
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#299
11-04-2011
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Has anyone found any good replacement low friction O rings to replace the standard ones???
I dont have much love for the standard kit ones as I'm finding it difficult to get the same feel left to right... even without the oil in them you can feel the restriction caused by the Kit O rings. Jon!
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#300
11-04-2011
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Hans, my guess is that you will get even bigger problems with mid motor on clay..
try dustins setup from tlracing.com.. works great. arnaud on petitrc is gonna post my EOS setup.. pretty similar to evans setup from low grip clay.
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