Tyres for polished wood - 2wd

[colmo]

I've returned to my original stomping ground of CVMCC (most westerly BRCA club!) which runs in a small church hall, so polished wood. No carpet, and unfortunately, jumps are infrequently used too.

It's a 4wd buggy club, but for an event later in the year, I'm learning how to drive a 2wd there. Last night, after a few rounds faffing around with springs, weights and shock positions, I nailed down a working setup on my X6, which went brilliantly for the first minute or two. Then it would all go wrong - the car would get squirrelly and became a devil to drive. My guess is that the tyres, Schumacher yellow minispikes, fairly worn, were going off.

So, how do I prevent this?

1. Use fresher minispikes.
2. Use full spikes (the larger spikes should heat up less.
3. Change the insert to prevent tyres heating up.

I'm also considering playing around with 'slim' tyres - 4wd fronts mounted on the rear, which would exacerbate the heat problem on minispikes, so perhaps might need a harder compound or larger spike?

[MHeadling]

At Faversham club (polished wood) we all use Yellow Sch Full spikes front and rear on the 2wds.

Its quite handy to run the fronts in on a 4wd to take the edge off the spikes then mount them on 2wd rims.

[colmo]

Originally Posted by Mark Headling

At Faversham club (polished wood) we all use Yellow Sch Full spikes front and rear on the 2wds.

Its quite handy to run the fronts in on a 4wd to take the edge off the spikes then mount them on 2wd rims.

I have a set of full-spikes worn in on a 4wd which I didn't have with me last night - I would have tried them. I presume they don't go off as quick as the mini-spikes? It stands to sense the larger spike would heat up slower. Have you tried the skinny tyre idea?

I keep an eye on the Faversham forum because you guys run on the same surface, but have it even worse than us - our wear rates are significantly better than yours. The biggest factor on grip (bouncy castles notwithstanding - long story) is ambient temperature, actually.

[discostu]

Originally Posted by colmo

I've returned to my original stomping ground of CVMCC (most westerly BRCA club!) which runs in a small church hall, so polished wood. No carpet, and unfortunately, jumps are infrequently used too.

It's a 4wd buggy club, but for an event later in the year, I'm learning how to drive a 2wd there. Last night, after a few rounds faffing around with springs, weights and shock positions, I nailed down a working setup on my X6, which went brilliantly for the first minute or two. Then it would all go wrong - the car would get squirrelly and became a devil to drive. My guess is that the tyres, Schumacher yellow minispikes, fairly worn, were going off.

So, how do I prevent this?

1. Use fresher minispikes.
2. Use full spikes (the larger spikes should heat up less.
3. Change the insert to prevent tyres heating up.

I'm also considering playing around with 'slim' tyres - 4wd fronts mounted on the rear, which would exacerbate the heat problem on minispikes, so perhaps might need a harder compound or larger spike?

if i were you i would check your diff out it is highly unlikely you would be over heating buggy tires on polished floor. mark is spot on full spikes are very good when worn in also minis spikes are proven to be as fast mini spikes however wear in quicker as the spike is smaller.

if it was me i would go with 4wd mini spikes rear 4wd mini spikes front on wide wheels as the 2wd mini spikes have a flat profile.

stu

[colmo]

Originally Posted by discostu

if i were you i would check your diff out it is highly unlikely you would be over heating buggy tires on polished floor.

Hmm, that could be it - it was slipping last time I drove it on astro, keep forgetting about it...as a diff warms up over a run, would it get looser?

[discostu]

Originally Posted by colmo

Hmm, that could be it - it was slipping last time I drove it on astro, keep forgetting about it...as a diff warms up over a run, would it get looser?

no it would tend do get tighter and not work as it should and by the time you have finished marshling it has cooled and feels ok i would recomend bud balls and nuclear rc diff grease this is what i use the combination is excelent. rc domination have these in stock you will not be dissapointed.

stu

[reg]

i would also look at the diff,it shows up more when the track is loose,it makes the car inconsitant,

[colmo]

Originally Posted by discostu

no it would tend do get tighter and not work as it should and by the time you have finished marshling it has cooled and feels ok i would recomend bud balls and nuclear rc diff grease this is what i use the combination is excelent. rc domination have these in stock you will not be dissapointed.

stu

Cheers for the advert - I haven't touched the diff since I bought the car a month back. I have spare sets of ceramic balls and one of those enormous tubes of pink lube that was selling here a while back (now encrusted with superglue from a leaking bottle, as if it didn't look suspicious enough). Both have proven themselves

[discostu]

thats no problem.

[Col]

Thought about trying schu mini pins? Full spikes are probably better on full polished wood floor but might be worth a go if you've got some kicking about

[rondoolaa]

I use Schumacher White rally blocks on polished floor, whites are a bit softer rubber so grip better, some at our club have followed suit as they like the grip mine get,

[colmo]

AFAIK, Shumacher Whites wear absurdly fast (I'm also guessing they're like the supersoft Dboots B compound, which last one night), whereas yellow minipins are the go-to when the track has a bit of rubber on it - Thursday evening meetings are small, so not enough track use to get the grip up enough.

If the problem is the diff, then I'm laughing, as the car was locked in on yellow minispikes for the first minute or so. There's 'before and after' video footage of the car, I'll try to get it posted...

[colmo]

Video now up - footage provided courtesy of Mole2k.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pszZkvH_OM

[jimlee]

Thumbs.....and how can a marshal video when he should be marshalling.....

[Modeltune]

Colin, T650 and T652 from schumacher are by far the best tires on polished wood. They used to do these in blue compound which were tremendous particularly in 2wd, but alas they are no more.

As I think it is something to do with a silicone based yellow rubber as opposed to the natural rubber used by many other manufactures and componds - but I stand to be corrected on this.

[Col]

Originally Posted by colmo

Video now up - footage provided courtesy of Mole2k.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pszZkvH_OM

99% sure that's not a tyre problem. Diff does seem most likely

[Alan Reeves]

Looks like you had a few beers between races!

[colmo]

Originally Posted by Alan Reeves

Looks like you had a few beers between races!

Shhhhh! That's a Methodist hall, they don't approve of the amber nectar (or indeed the Black Stuff)....

Originally Posted by Col

99% sure that's not a tyre problem. Diff does seem most likely

Cheers, I'll rebuild it in the next few days.

[colmo]

Just a wee update - last week, the diff rebuild did the trick, and finished 3rd in the B (running with the 4wds!)

This week, the floor was diabolical - no grip whatsoever, even the 4wds were struggling, and one corner still has shock oil from last week, (you know who you are, jimlee!)

Minispikes didn't work, only had full spikes for the rear. They made the car drivable, but understeered enormously.

An optimistic switch back to minispikes when a practice lap lulled me into thinking the grip was up proved my undoing, and I gave up in disgust after 5 laps in the final.

I'll mount up some full spikes on front rims for next time - I don't think they even need gluing on.

[OldMan]

Have you tried foam tyres coated with silicon sealant, rotated against each other before it has dried to produce a minipin effect?
This can be applied several times then when it’s too thick just peel it off in one go and start again.