My new SC10 build

moth898 · #1 21-03-2010

In case you didn't know, I just got back into the hobby after a long absence...wife and kid got in the way.

My first build was a shumacher cat sx witch went together flawlessly. Although I found it to be made of all the best materials I also think it too complex for anyone without a enginering degree. That being said I love it

So that brings me to my second build, the AE SC10, wich I started tonight. If you need to be a engineer to build the cat you need to be a mini person to build the sc10. I have never come across such small screws to hold the suspension pins in place...then again I've never seen a screw hold a pin in place. Even though its going together well and doesn't bind I do find it alittle on the lacking side, I know its inexpensive but pins with e-clips would have been nicer.....or even threaded pins can't be that expensive. The scews holding the pins had to be picked up using a tweezer???? Then I got to the transmision witch was solid and smooth as silk, I expected that from associated.

I asked you, the experts in this forum, on what motor to use and got good advice. Now I have more questions...Is it worth it to upgrade to aluminium suspension arms and do they use the same pin retainers?

Or better.....What upgrades make it a better ride?

jon kedge · #2 22-03-2010

Hello and welcome back to this superb hobby.Don't bother with any upgrades race it boX standard,race mine on astro and grass.If you find the front dives heavily on cornering get truck red springs 35wt oil for the front and put the kit silvers with 30 wt in the rear.As for motors,alot race 10.5 brushless but if you want more oomf 7.5, ONLY UPGRADE I WOULD SERIOSLY DO,PUT A WASHER INBETWEEN THE REAR WHEEL AND THE NYLOC NUT OR YOU WILL BOTTOM OUT THE THREAD ON THE SHAFT AND STRIP OUT THE PIN SLOT ON YOUR REAR WHEELS AND RUIN YOUR NICE NEW WHEELS (ALOT OF PEOPLE DO THIS STRAIGHT AWAY) ,hope this helps jon kedge(sc10,kyosho rb5,hpi cyber 10b)

moth898 · #3 22-03-2010

Thats the type of advice I'm looking for thank you.

Garry · #4 23-03-2010

I've not had a problem with the hingepin screws, and I've got fat fingers.

Its the same design as the B4 and thats been around for ages without too many lost screws....certainly less than there would have been with e-clips pinging around at 90mph

I'm sure I saw someone here selling a screwkit that changes them to cap head screws and a washer.

And nope, don't put any alloy on the car. You want things to break in an accident, not bend and stay bent (mucking up the handling). In 8 months of SC10 racing, I've broke two front arms (one hitting a marshall....ooops, and one hitting a steel girder...it jumped out at me!

) but most other people I know haven't broken a thing.

moth898 · #5 23-03-2010

Thanks for the advice... and hitting a marshal is always fun no matter what breaks

moth898 · #6 03-04-2010

I took my truck for a first run today and I had a little problem. It accelerated great but once it got up to top speed it spun out. Also any type on break at speed spins me out too. I'm running a lrp 10.5 stock motor, a 24 tooth pinion on th 75 tooth spur gear. My diff is stuffed with 30000 weight oil witch should make it more stable, but I don't know, I need help please.

chris brown · #7 04-04-2010

It sounds to me as though something is binding if it spins out at top speed. Obviously I've not seen it but am willing to take a look if you pay for the airfare and accomodation.
Take the drive shafts out and see if the wheels spin freely then check out the gearbox without the motor pinion on. Just have to systematically go through and check any moving parts. I noticed that all kits seem to bind at the rear. It happens at full droop on the rear arms where the outer drive cup catches the arm. Havent noticed that it has made people spin out though.
Chris.

Spoolio · #8 04-04-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by moth898

I took my truck for a first run today and I had a little problem. It accelerated great but once it got up to top speed it spun out. Also any type on break at speed spins me out too. I'm running a lrp 10.5 stock motor, a 24 tooth pinion on th 75 tooth spur gear. My diff is stuffed with 30000 weight oil witch should make it more stable, but I don't know, I need help please.

Do you mean it spins out at top speed as soon as you apply some steering or literally that as soon as it gets to v-max it just spins out without you touching the stick/wheel?

Not sure about 30,000wt oil, I ran mine with the diff liberally coated with Associated black grease and it ran straight and true (LRP 10.5T motor) with no problem. As Chris said, check all the transmission one bit at a time. I'd also check the settings for camber and the steering as well.

Regarding it spinning out as soon as you apply brake, it sounds like you need to reduce the brake end point on your transmitter (if you can). It's probably set at 100% by default, reduce it to 85% and see if it makes it better.

moth898 · #9 05-04-2010

Thats exactly it, as soon as I'm at top speed and correct the steering in the smallest posible degree I spin out. When I mean small I mean not even 1/32 of a turn of the steering wheel left or right. I have no tow in or out in the front and negative 1 camber in all for corners. I'm thinking of slowing it down or installing stiffer springs

The transmision is as smooth as silk, I also instaled a set of mip cvds from the start.

chris brown · #10 07-04-2010

Change that oil then.
30000wt oil would I imagine allow little to no diff action, especially at high speed. In a small diff like on the sc10 30000 wt may feel like 50000wt.
I would say no hotter than a 10.5 brushless either.

Oh, something else I have just remembered too. If you built the truck exactly as per the instructions it could well be wrong. The 1:1 diagram in my istructions for the front links was stupidly too short. Cant remember if it was for the toe or camber setting? Either way it was way off. I run 0deg toe and 0-1deg camber on the front. Make sure ride height isnt too high either. I'm sure you could get some good set ups for your surface if you check on the net. Really does sound to me like you need to change that diff oil though.

Good luck, Chris.

moth898 · #11 07-04-2010

It's true that the stock tie rod lenghts leave it looking cockeyed. I zero'd the front wheels and set neg 1 camber all around. I'll try changing the oil in th the diff to something lighter just for the experiment but that goes against what I know. If one of the wheel lifts off the pavement the heavier oil will keep it from unloading better than a thinner oil. What I see is that the front end lifts alot and the rear end get pretty low under acceleration. I know that SC's are supposed to have soft suspension and body role but it makes it hard to control. Im also going to stiffen the rear spring. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks Chris

one other thing that does bother me is that the 10.5 LRP barely fits with the suggested gear.... a couple of mm more space would have been nice.

chris brown · #12 07-04-2010

Yeah, its the same with my novak too.

moth898 · #13 19-04-2010

Call it beginers luck, but my first race with a SC and I qualified in the A-Main and finished sixth. These things are smooth and unbreakable. I ran a stock setup with a stock LRP motor, the only mistake I made is instaling Proline calipers instead of goosebumps like everyone else. They had very little grip on the hard packed surface, after getting home I looked up the Calipers and found out they are for loose surfaces. They looked nice in the packaging though.

Never raced a 2wd truck and found it almost easy compared the my 4wd, if 2wd buggy is anything like the SC10 I'll be ripping up the track with my Cougar SV.

p.s.never touched a 2wd buggy either.